mikedio

To slick up the brass for reloading, I add a few small globs of paste wax with carnauba to the treated corn cob media and then tumble in a large Dillon tumbler before adding the brass. I also use Dillon case lube and remove after reloading. Works great with reduced effort for loading on my Dillon 550. A little extra work, but then I do not shoot the volume many of those on this forum do. Michael

I have two Rock River Arms Limited Match 1911's that were hard chromed by APW. After over 12,000 rounds through one of them, the slide to frame rail fit is still tight as a drum and looks almost like new. APW does a great job and their HC is quite durable. Michael

FYI, the list below was copied from the Dillon 550 manual. The 9mm uses Shellplate 5 and the .380 uses Shellplate 3. Both use the same Locator Button #3. The .380 is not just a shortened 9mm case. Good Shooting. Michael Shellplate 3 Locator Button 3 .221 Rem. Fire Ball A - #13426 .222 Rem. - Rem. Mag. A - #13426 .223 - 5.56 mm A - #13426 .380 ACP F - #13806 6mm TCU 6PPC - #13085 7mm TCU N - #13014 .17 Rem. O - #12921 .30 Whisper AK - #13015 Shellplate 5 Locator Button 3 9x18 9 - #14980 .41 AE AE - #13180 .30 Luger C - #13564 .30 Mauser C - #13564 9mm Luger F - #13806

boatdoc173, Vibra-tite is easy to loosen to remove a screw. The screw does not pop loose like with 222 Lock-tite, it maintains resistance while unscrewing. I got the info on Vibra-tite from the folks at Sinclair International before they were bought out by Brownells. They used Vibra-tite in the ram threads of their hand priming tool to adjust depth or to change calibers. But it does stay put. I use it religiously. I also use it on the choke threads for my Benelli shotgun. Michael

https://www.amazon.com/Vibra-Tite-Threadmate-Removable-locking-supplier/dp/B01NA97OCA Try Vibra-Tite, it does not dry rock tight like some of the lock tite products. You will find that there are a number of uses in shooting sports and reloading. Do not sweat the price, a small jar will last years. Michael

JayDee, Just measured some of my brass. Once fired Starline 10mm brass was .425 at the base, shot from an Infinity barrel. It had not yet been resized. Once fired nickeled Speer brass fired from an Infinity barrel measured .425 at the base. Once fired .40 S&W nickeled Speer brass, shot from a Glock barrel measured .431 at the base, clearly from the Glock bulge. The same .40 S&W case run through a Redding GRx die measured .423 at the base. Looks like it may be the Glock chamber causing the issue with resizing. The Redding GRx die will eliminate the bulge, although it adds one extra step. Good luck and let us know your results. Michael

If you are close to the same neck wall thickness for the brass you are reloading, a bushing die would give you the best results. It would be less likely to push the neck out of alignment and thus allow for a better aligned bullet when fired. FWIW, bushing dies are what competition bench rest rifle shooters use. The only time when they would be using an expander mandrel is when they are turning case necks, which is virtually another topic. Use a case run out fixture, with dial indicator, to test your results. Michael

Listen to workingmanjeff's advice. The Redding micrometer seating die starts the bullet straight into the case from the start. This is an obsession with bench rest rifle shooters and the same concept can carry over to reloading for pistol. I use the Redding micrometer seater for all the pistol calibers I reload. Michael

Good advice from the above posters. You also might want to lube the ram and contact points on the press to facilitate better primer seating. Do not overdue the lube on the ram or you can have a mess. Michael

Ditto on the above regarding Redding dies. I use them for all pistol calibers I reload for on my Dillon 550. I leave the spring in the Redding micrometer seating die. I believe that it helps to align the bullet for straighter seating from the beginning of the process. It made a huge difference in accuracy for reloading lead semi wadcutters for .45 caliber. The groups tightened and the fliers came back into the group. I keep a RamRodz "q-tip" of the same caliber handy with some case lube on it to periodically swab out the micrometer crimp die through the top. Good luck and stay safe. Michael

VV N-110 works great for high velocities and VV 3N37 for less than full bore magnum loads. I use Federal magnum pistol primers for the N-110.

Decot is top notch. I have used their glasses for rifle, pistol and shotgun. Be open to their suggestions as to the color and tint. For pistol I have bifocals with the bifocal lens at the top instead of the bottom, making it easier to pick up the front sight from a more aggressive stance. I had them make the color a very light green which Robert recommended. They are great. Good luck. Mike

I load to 1.200" for Montana Gold or Hornady HAP bullets. I have gone as far 1.215". Not a feeding problem with either length in 10 different SVI mags for 4 different SVI pistols. If you are loading longer and the nose diving rounds still occur on occasion, you might want to install a new mag spring or put a slight bend in the top coil. Good luck. Mike

Large Dillon - I will second the recommendation. Also get the case/media separator.

http://www.sgmgrips.com Contact Michael Galley at SGM grips. He will custom make grips for you at whatever dimensions you would like. I got a pair of cocobolo grips from him at a thickness of .310" that puts the circumference close to that of the 2011 double stack. Mike

Dirtchevy841: I bought my first SVI the same way, having never held or shot one in person. Mine was for sale from a stocking dealer, so I had instant gratification. As I have said before, as I left the local gun shop with the new SVI, my first thought was how to get my next! I absolutely guarantee you that you will be thrilled. I also got a call from Brent last week. I should get mine next SVI by the end of the year or a little sooner. Mine has to be DLC finished so it will take that much more time. Good shooting. Mike

A little late to this thread. I have three Kolar shotguns. Two are two barrel skeet guns with sub-gauge tubes, the third is a 32" sporting gun. All have high adjustable ribs. I love them and I shoot them better than other shotguns I have owned. I started the O/U craze with a Beretta 682. Next was a Perazzi that I shot very well, but was not set up for adjustable chokes. I bought the 32" Kolar and from the beginning I shot it much better. Added another Kolar skeet gun. The most counterproductive thing I did was switch back a forth between the Kolar and the Perazzi. The ergonomics are much different. Traded the Perazzi for the third Kolar. The Kolars come with offset stocks with a heel that casts out. I had my factory stocks altered for me at the factory. Customer service is outstanding. You cannot go wrong. Good shooting. Mike

I bought my first SVI from a distributor online without ever shooting or even handling one in person. I just went with the opinions of other shooters. So after I left the gun shop when I picked up the gun, I was already planning to get my next! Now i have some. They are indeed that good. Mike

The Redding comp seater will be of assistance in getting your bullet seated straight. It captures the tip of the bullet at the beginning of the seating function with a spring loaded sleeve. Standard seating dies impinge on the bullet tip at the end of the seating function,when it is too late if the bullet is seated crooked. A bullet seated crooked may not pass the plunk test. The first Redding comp seater I used was in .45 auto and it made a big difference. It took out unexplained flyers for the lead bullets I was loading. I use the Redding die for loading .40 for two SVI AET barrels and have gone as long as 1.220" OAL with out a problem.

This is an SVI pic and mine is identical except for the last digit of the serial number. Perfect representation.

I have to take issue with some adverse comments regarding SVI. I have 5 SVI pistols and each is better than the next. Mine are in 9mm, .40 caliber, 10mm and one open gun in .38 SC. I have had zero malfunctions and zero complaints. Accuracy is great. Questions I have had concerning load data or a build sheet were responded to by SVI in a timely manner. When I clean my SVI's, I inspect each as I do with any firearm. I am continually amazed as to the fine workmanship, so much that comments to the contrary lack credibility. My guess with the slide with the chip missing by the extractor in post #85 is that an after market firing pin stop was misfit when installed. Just a guess. My only problem with SVI is coming up with the scratch to buy more! But I will. Mike

I just bought a case of Montana Gold 9mm 124 grain JHP, 3,750 bullets for $360, shipped. That is 9.6 cents apiece.

I use a Dillon 550B and I exclusively use Redding dies. As for the sizer, they resize .001" to .002" tighter than a Dillon, which is better for lead bullets. The Competition seater with the micrometer adjustment is just superb. The difference this die makes is that the spring loaded seating plug holds the bullet in line during the seating operation for a straighter and more accurate loaded round. I noted the improvement when loading an H&G style 185 grain SWC .45 caliber bullet. It eliminated the fliers. I do not use a Dillon lock ring with the .45 Competition seater because I do have to remove it periodically to clean out the bullet lube left behind from lead bullets. A Redding lock ring allows return to back to original setting. I use Redding dies for .45, .44 magnum, .40 S&W, 9mm and now .38 super comp. Good Shooting. Mike

Dawson has an amazing selection of sight heights and widths to dial your point of impact right in.

I have both and the SV might be a little brighter of the two. But if you get solvent or degreaser on either fiber optic, it will become dull in short order.