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mikedio

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    Michael Casali

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Looks for Match

Looks for Match (2/11)

  1. To slick up the brass for reloading, I add a few small globs of paste wax with carnauba to the treated corn cob media and then tumble in a large Dillon tumbler before adding the brass. I also use Dillon case lube and remove after reloading. Works great with reduced effort for loading on my Dillon 550. A little extra work, but then I do not shoot the volume many of those on this forum do. Michael
  2. I have two Rock River Arms Limited Match 1911's that were hard chromed by APW. After over 12,000 rounds through one of them, the slide to frame rail fit is still tight as a drum and looks almost like new. APW does a great job and their HC is quite durable. Michael
  3. FYI, the list below was copied from the Dillon 550 manual. The 9mm uses Shellplate 5 and the .380 uses Shellplate 3. Both use the same Locator Button #3. The .380 is not just a shortened 9mm case. Good Shooting. Michael Shellplate 3 Locator Button 3 .221 Rem. Fire Ball A - #13426 .222 Rem. - Rem. Mag. A - #13426 .223 - 5.56 mm A - #13426 .380 ACP F - #13806 6mm TCU 6PPC - #13085 7mm TCU N - #13014 .17 Rem. O - #12921 .30 Whisper AK - #13015 Shellplate 5 Locator Button 3 9x18 9 - #14980 .41 AE AE - #13180 .30 Luger C - #13564 .30 Mauser C - #13564 9mm Luger F - #13806
  4. boatdoc173, Vibra-tite is easy to loosen to remove a screw. The screw does not pop loose like with 222 Lock-tite, it maintains resistance while unscrewing. I got the info on Vibra-tite from the folks at Sinclair International before they were bought out by Brownells. They used Vibra-tite in the ram threads of their hand priming tool to adjust depth or to change calibers. But it does stay put. I use it religiously. I also use it on the choke threads for my Benelli shotgun. Michael
  5. https://www.amazon.com/Vibra-Tite-Threadmate-Removable-locking-supplier/dp/B01NA97OCA Try Vibra-Tite, it does not dry rock tight like some of the lock tite products. You will find that there are a number of uses in shooting sports and reloading. Do not sweat the price, a small jar will last years. Michael
  6. JayDee, Just measured some of my brass. Once fired Starline 10mm brass was .425 at the base, shot from an Infinity barrel. It had not yet been resized. Once fired nickeled Speer brass fired from an Infinity barrel measured .425 at the base. Once fired .40 S&W nickeled Speer brass, shot from a Glock barrel measured .431 at the base, clearly from the Glock bulge. The same .40 S&W case run through a Redding GRx die measured .423 at the base. Looks like it may be the Glock chamber causing the issue with resizing. The Redding GRx die will eliminate the bulge, although it adds one extra step. Good luck and let us know your results. Michael
  7. If you are close to the same neck wall thickness for the brass you are reloading, a bushing die would give you the best results. It would be less likely to push the neck out of alignment and thus allow for a better aligned bullet when fired. FWIW, bushing dies are what competition bench rest rifle shooters use. The only time when they would be using an expander mandrel is when they are turning case necks, which is virtually another topic. Use a case run out fixture, with dial indicator, to test your results. Michael
  8. Listen to workingmanjeff's advice. The Redding micrometer seating die starts the bullet straight into the case from the start. This is an obsession with bench rest rifle shooters and the same concept can carry over to reloading for pistol. I use the Redding micrometer seater for all the pistol calibers I reload. Michael
  9. Good advice from the above posters. You also might want to lube the ram and contact points on the press to facilitate better primer seating. Do not overdue the lube on the ram or you can have a mess. Michael
  10. Ditto on the above regarding Redding dies. I use them for all pistol calibers I reload for on my Dillon 550. I leave the spring in the Redding micrometer seating die. I believe that it helps to align the bullet for straighter seating from the beginning of the process. It made a huge difference in accuracy for reloading lead semi wadcutters for .45 caliber. The groups tightened and the fliers came back into the group. I keep a RamRodz "q-tip" of the same caliber handy with some case lube on it to periodically swab out the micrometer crimp die through the top. Good luck and stay safe. Michael
  11. VV N-110 works great for high velocities and VV 3N37 for less than full bore magnum loads. I use Federal magnum pistol primers for the N-110.
  12. Decot is top notch. I have used their glasses for rifle, pistol and shotgun. Be open to their suggestions as to the color and tint. For pistol I have bifocals with the bifocal lens at the top instead of the bottom, making it easier to pick up the front sight from a more aggressive stance. I had them make the color a very light green which Robert recommended. They are great. Good luck. Mike
  13. I load to 1.200" for Montana Gold or Hornady HAP bullets. I have gone as far 1.215". Not a feeding problem with either length in 10 different SVI mags for 4 different SVI pistols. If you are loading longer and the nose diving rounds still occur on occasion, you might want to install a new mag spring or put a slight bend in the top coil. Good luck. Mike
  14. Large Dillon - I will second the recommendation. Also get the case/media separator.
  15. http://www.sgmgrips.com Contact Michael Galley at SGM grips. He will custom make grips for you at whatever dimensions you would like. I got a pair of cocobolo grips from him at a thickness of .310" that puts the circumference close to that of the 2011 double stack. Mike
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