kar45

S'Stack, would you guys say that milking is a subtle form of a flinch, an involuntary movement to the left at the instant the gun fires? Thanks, Kirby

I bought a 1050 in .45acp in the early 90's. I am just now really beginning to use it...it's purring like a kitten. Go for it. Regards, Kirby

John, that's a good one and I'll take that advice. All joking aside, when I laid it down in 1986 it would still shoot 2" at 25 yds. After 23 years of trapshooting I can't hit a bull in the butt from my flinch. Maybe I can get out the sandbags to see if it will still shoot...Kirby

Matt, I've already shot it out. A ring impression was left in the bore, permanently...Thanks, Kirby

If all of the bullet lodged in the bore it was a squib and wasn't the fault of the bullet (and I dislike plated bullets). Is the ring a complete circle? As far as safety, it depends on where the ring is....and if it's far enough forward the gun may not cycle properly due to the bushing catching on the raised part of the barrel (sometimes happens, sometimes doesn't). You're probably going to need a new barrel anyway as they almost never shoot accurately after getting ringed. R, over 47000 lead bullets thru it with no rings...4.0 Clays behind them was noticeably weak. I miked the bullets at .448 or so. I think lack of a good bore seal probably left one stuck. The ring is a complete circle...Thanks, Kirby

Evidently part of a plated(or all of it) bullet lodged in the bore and now I have this ring about half way down the barrel The barrel is a Barsto from the late 70's, single port skinny gun. Ask me if I will EVER load any more of these damn things. Maybe Howard, Benny or Matt could advise on whether it's safe to still shoot it. Thanks, Kirby

Wow, thats certainly something to consider. I don't think I'd use that to soak the barrel though. I know some have sworn by it, but it's stories like that, that keep me from soaking in anything home made or without a label that says I can or should... I dunno about the Moly only being $2 more... I've found lead 230gr 45 listed for $76/1k, but out of stock, and $70 or $86/1k unknown stock, but Precision moly's are $111/1k... so from what I'm seeing there is some savings with lead. If there wasn't I wouldn't even consider it and I'd just shoot Moly. Maybe I need to call up the companies I'm seeing here and see if they have bullets in stock... 'Stang, try the 230RNL from S&S casting...the bullets he sent me are harder than a preacher's dick, no leading at 750fps. Hope this helps, Kirby

The plates are spaced out 12 inches edge to edge. Appreciate the info, thanks Kirby

What is the distance between the plates edge to edge? Thanks, Kirby

Flex, that would make way too much sense...thanks, Kirby

I mentioned this thread to a friend of mine who is a commercial loader. He immediately said "failure to decontaminate"...Regards, Kirby

Bafaction, thanks for your help. Are any of the iron sight guys using a fiber optic on the front, or does this hurt your precision at 50 yards? Regards, Kirby

...and would it be competitive in that division? Accurate enough, reliable enough? Are the factory sights OK? Other than a good trigger job would it be pretty much ready out of the box? Thanks, Kirby http://www.stiguns.com/guns/Targetmaster/Targetmaster.html

Sorry to but in but can a 9x23 shell be used in a 38 super gun, I am shooting super comp at the moment and I use lead 122fp and I am acheiving a group of 1.25 - 1.5" at 50 yards. It is a lot cheaper for me to use lead over jacketed. Bafaction, what diameter are your 122FP's, and is it a copy of the old Hornady Air Force bullet? What powder do you use for these 1.25" groups? Thanks, Kirby

Christ!! I was thinking the same thing. I just ordered my first 1050 from Brian about two hours ago. CSE, I guess we can get a case feeder, PW auto drive with a 20' cord, put in our ear plugs, safety glasses on and watch it run from across the room. then when we light off a stack at least it won't be right in our face. lol, Kirby Great idea!! Or get one of those plexiglass safety shield things they use in Mythbusters. I meant to say bullet feeder, not case feeder. All joking aside, I'm sure I've had worse ideas. I know the machine has a steel tube to contain the blast and direct it upwards, I'm just leery about primers in general...Regards, Kirby

Christ!! I was thinking the same thing. I just ordered my first 1050 from Brian about two hours ago. CSE, I guess we can get a case feeder, PW auto drive with a 20' cord, put in our ear plugs, safety glasses on and watch it run from across the room. then when we light off a stack at least it won't be right in our face. lol, Kirby

Large or small primers, what brand? The explosion was at the very bottom of the stroke? Are your ears still ringing and will the stain come out of your drawers? I have a 1050 in 45acp I bought in the early 90's that I'm just now beginning to use, have only loaded 9k rounds on. You guys are scaring me a little with this 'welcome to the club' bidness...Regards, Kirby Only a small stain, can not hear anyway. Bottom of stroke and cci primers. Took me about 30 min's to clean it up and rob another 1050 and keep on going. I have about 750000 on this 1050 and like they say there is a first time. Just my first for a stake of a 100 at once. 750k...are you cranking the handle on all of those or using the PW autodrive? Just curious, that would kill my arm...Regards, Kirby

Large or small primers, what brand? The explosion was at the very bottom of the stroke? Are your ears still ringing and will the stain come out of your drawers? I have a 1050 in 45acp I bought in the early 90's that I'm just now beginning to use, have only loaded 9k rounds on. You guys are scaring me a little with this 'welcome to the club' bidness...Regards, Kirby

I use the Rock to resize-deprime. This keeps primer dirt and corncob grit out the big machine(1050).It also reduces cranking effort which my tendonitis appreciates. Regards, Kirby

All 10 of mine work great in my Long Slide Trojan. Kirby

I hope your 550 experience will be better than mine . Way too much frustration and aggravation with the priming system. I finally quit priming on it and went back to using my old RCBS bench mounted priming tool. My old(early 80's) 450 and (early 90's) 1050 both purr like a kitten Kirby

If you are looking for real "Sunday go to Meetin' grips" go to Novak's site and look at the Craig Spegel selection...regards, Kirby

Bones, you may very well be a 'tough nut to crack'- welcome to "the Curse of 10,000 Flinches".It is truly a malady for any competive shooter. There are 2 types of flinch, the flinch of the new shooter, and the flinch of the 'old' shooter. The new shooter flinch is a result of your nervous system not being accustomed to a sudden loud noise and jolt. The advice to stay with dry firing and slow fire with light recoiling loads over time, should help you. I have the 'old' shooters flinch, courtesy of 23 years of trapshooting. It is truly pathological, I mean flinching with a .410 EVERYTIME. Unfortunately, it is transfering over to my handgun shooting as well. This is the cumulative result of years of noise and pounding, and my nervous system is saying, "I've had enough of this, and in order to stop it, I'll give you a totally involuntary jerk of your whole body until you stop this activity". At 15 yards I will shoot 1 foot below the whole target, holding in the A zone. This occurs 4 or 5 times in a 200 round practice session. I fear that my cure is to lay the gun down for a while and try it again later. If I'm ever able to overcome this curse those D shooters better watch out Good luck in your shooting, Kirby

Sell that 540 to a skeet shooter for their 28ga reloads, it is a poor choice for 45acp. Try s1000, WST, Clays or Bullseye for much better results. Hope this helps, Kirby

Marty, the folks at MG told me the 130 .356 bullet would be back on line in about 6 months...Regards, Kirby