Sullie

Yes, I know that the CORE has a milled slide to accept several different red dots via mounting plates. But, the RMR appears to sit higher on the core than the milled slides by OST and ATEI. In addition, I worry about the RMR's ability to hold zero when mounted to the CORE via mounting plates. Opinions?

Thank you for the responses. Re: Dropping the Slide. On my current M&P (without T.S.) I drop the slide with my strong side (right) thumb. Though my gun will reliably drop the slide on its own if I slam the mag in, I hit the slide release at the same time. On my 1911/2011, I drop the slide with mt weak hand thumb (not ideal, but it works.) Re: the CORE. My understanding, please correct me if I am wrong, is that the red dot on the core would sit quite high, machining the slide allows the red dot to sit lower and cowitness with suppressor sights.

I am planning to buy another full size M&P 9mm in the near future to build up. This gun will sport a milled slide to accept a Trijicon RMR red dot sight. I plan to use Apex trigger parts, to possibly include their FSS trigger. This gun will likely become my primary carry gun as well as a gun for shooting steel and USPSA open (minor). My question has to do with whether or not I should get the model with the thumb safety or not. The first handgun I ever owned was a 1911, and I still shoot it (and my 2011) a lot. So, I am extremely used to the operation of a thumb safety on that design. (I say this so that I don't get responses about possibly forgetting to disengage the thumb safety or other such nonsense!). This has never been a problem for me. Why would I want a thumb safety for this gun? For a few reasons, I like light trigger pulls, I may experiment with appendix carry with this gun.....the additional thumb safety may help make me feel more comfortable with this, and, if I am already used to the safety.....why not? It certainly doesn't slow me down and may enhance my own safety. Since I have never shot the M&P with the thumb safety (they are pretty rare), I would like to know your opinions on their use. Particularly, for those 1911/2011 guys out there, does the M&P safety have a similar feel and ergonomics as the 1911? I have only handled them in the store, they seem like they are positioned slightly farther back and/or higher than on a 1911. They are also made of plastic.

The problem with tape flying off is because of the close distance of the shooting. Replacing the target for every shooter is not realistic. If the shooter didn't want to accept her run with zero down on the first target then I would have just given her a reshoot.

I don't know what the grip circumfrence is, sorry. I do know that it feels thinner and better than a para. The para has much more of a square front strap than the STI.

What is the USB?

I know this is an old topic but something struck me as seeming a bit odd. It seems the gun shopper wanted to know which gun was the most popular? Who cares? While the answers may be interesting, the overriding factor is how well does a particular gun work for you. Choosing one, like choosing an IWB holster or a bicycle seat, is a very individual thing. Boxers vs. briefs may be an interesting discussion for some but I like what I like no matter what others think.

I love the 9mm M&P's. Both the Pro and the 4 inch are great guns. They fit my hand, have good ergonomics, all the controls are in the right place for me, and are easy to work on. The trigger does need work, and the sights aren't that great on the stock pistols but many folks replace sights on all guns anyway.

I can shoot better with the PRO....it fits my hand and points well. In addition, all the controls are placed perfectly for me. I don't accidentally ride the slide release.

I think that the HK P7's are pretty darn nice shooters. They cycle fast, have very low bore axis, reload quick, and are unique enough to draw attention. On the downside, they are expensive (a downside for me anyway), they get extremely hot from extended shooting, and the M13 doublestack version is like holding a 2x4. With all that said, I often miss the P7M8 with Nills grips that I sold.

It appears that it is cheaper to buy complete mags from Dawson and replace the guts with grams, than to buy the STI tube, Dawson basepad, and Grams guts separately.

CDP= EX SSP= EX A18276

It sounds like the way to go would be to just buy the standard STI mags and see if they are reliable. If they are not, then worry about tuning.

If WD40 were available, I would have tried that. I have heard that it will "deactivate" live primers but I have never tried it. Sounds like it all worked out in the end. How did he get the round in backwards anyway? Did he load his mag with one round backwards or was this some standard malfunction turned even uglier by the shooter?

I had been looking at the M&P at the local gunstore for quite awhile. The gun pointed well, the controls were all located just perfectly for me, it just felt right......until I would pull the trigger. The pull was rough and gritty. Well, a friend let me borrow two of his M&P's that he had done some trigger work to. What a difference! This convinced me that the trigger could be made significantly better and then the whole package would be just right. I bought my M&P 9mm and did my own trigger job on it with good results. About a week ago somebody gave me an Apex sear. I dropped it in and it was even better than my own trigger job. The reset especially was much shorter. I am thrilled at what a difference it makes in the shootability of this gun. Well done!