Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

LikesToShoot

Classifieds
  • Posts

    603
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by LikesToShoot

  1. I was going to shoot the ARPC USPSA match but I'm really drawn to your cause. I've shot this match a couple times in the past and really like the hosier stages that are available.

    Any chance you could add a Pistol Caliber Carbine division to your scoring? If not, no worries and I'm glad to see BRRC supporting our troops, I know they are in the hearts of your club.

    Thank you for your efforts!

    Steve

  2. I am using berry's plated 124 gr round nose. I have been using 4.0 grains, and accuracy is great, however the recoil is pretty stout. Have any of you guys loaded less grain wise and still retained the accuracy?

    I know guys that have run them down at 3.8 and 3.6 (cycle problems w/o mods). It's your gun so why not load a few at different charges and see what happens? Bring a squib rod and shoot slow to see what happens. I like to take cell phone picks of the targets with the load data details for test results. At lower levels they may not make min. Power Factor for playing games.

    As mentioned, Bayou bullets (and other Hi-Tech coated bullet: SnS, BBI) can work really well at low charges of TG.

  3. If you like MG, and don't mine paying the price, then Precision Delta and HAP are really worth checking out.

    Your gun and use do have to be considered when choosing a bullet. What Division are you shooting?

    I've tried many bullets, MG, PD, HAP, Zero, Rainier, Berry's, lead, moly, etc... but have gone to the new Hi-Tec coatings used by SnS, Bayou and Black Bullet International for shooting in Limited. They're cheaper so I can afford to shoot more and are just as accurate for me at my level of shooting. Sure, for a Major match I'd rather be shooting HAP in new Star line brass but that's a very small amount of my ammo use. YMMV.

  4. I load on a 550. Once I have determine COL for whatever specific bullet I am using it whatever caliber I am loading for I seat the bullet to that COL.

    I completely back of the Lee Factory Crimp die and pull the handle to push that cartridge into the crimp die then lightly screw the crimp die until it just touches the cartridge. Lower the handle, to pull it away from the crimp die, and turn the crimp die in another 1/8 of a turn and pull the handle again to "remove the bell". Now test the cartridge in the barrel chamber for the "plunk test". If it passes, GREAT, if not I add another 1/8 turn at a time until it passes.

    No pulling bullets and measuring anything for me. Due to the variations in brass thicknesses (I use mixed range brass 99.9% of the time) I don't care what the measurement is for action pistol ammo.

    Precision shooting is a completely different game and requires additional attention to details.

    YMMV.

    Add that I don't go nuts on adding crimp to remove the bell, I can't remember turning it down much more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn.

    I recheck after I load the 10th round and again at 100 when I'm refilling the primer tube and checking the powder charge weight. These 100 rounds get's added to the BIG ammo can if it passes these checks. Then are repeated for the next 100 rounds.

    If I discover a problem during the crimp / powder re-testing I have limited my suspect ammo to a 100 count batch and not a large ammo can of hundreds.

  5. I understand, when powder was barren you grabbed what you could. No problem.

    As far as dirty? I just see un-burned powder. I had the same complaint with Universal when I loaded at the lower end of the recommendations shooting 38 spl.

    (Now I wish I had stocked up on Universal because it's great for 40 major w/200 gr bullets)

    Your first step should be to chrono to see where you are running. What is the recipe you are using?

    I like Clays but only for minor in 40 SW.

    I Love Clays for 38 spl, 9mm, 45 ACP and 12 ga.

  6. You may want to try some sample packs from Bayou Bullets, Black Bullet International and SnS casting with their new Hi-Tech coating. The increased velocities using lighter charges and less smoke (compared to molly or lead) really have been appreciated by many shooters.

  7. Blow by will give you the signs you're seeing but as stated, chrono your rounds. Don't ASSume anything. I've picked up range brass from an MP5 and seen the same signs. My CX4 Storm carbine shooting 115gr MG HP's at 1400FPS with Power Pistol will have the same signs.

    It's good that you noticed this, keep us informed on your findings.

  8. I liked using 357 brass at lighter loads, the fire ring from shooting 38 made switch back to 357 a PITA so I just loaded 357 brass. Just be careful to not go too low, if you go too low with JHP the brass case could get stuck and the lead core could exit the barrel. At least that's what I thought I read decades ago when I first started loading 38/357.

    OK, I'll admit it. I had a pet 38 spl load, lead bullet in 357 case Soft and accurate. I switch it over to plated bullets and wasn't close enough attention and plugged a barrel.

  9. I've read on Enos that the 147 gr bullet (I'll be using coated lead) is not consistent accuracy wise. Any truth to that?

    I'll be loading up some Blue Bullet 147's tonight for the first time. I'm curious of this as well.

    I just bought some of the 147 round nose... I'm not sure I found the best load yet but they are better than the plated I have used and just as accurate as the 115 FMJ Ive loaded in the past.

    DSCN0930_zps6baae1fe.jpg

    There's no doubt your PP load is accurate but at 6.2 gr I'm sure there's a flame coming out of that barrel, as well as some recoil.

    That 3.3 Red Dot and 3.6 WST load look good enough to chrono and really should be a soft shooting load.

    Nice picture!

  10. As stated, primers look fine.

    While Clay's does have a narrow window to work within when shooting major I think some other factors may be to blame for case head separation.

    A friend of mine had 4 case heads separate, three in his gun (STI) and one in another (XDm), using WST and brass that was bought from a guy that had "cased pro'd" the brass. This same load chrono'd at area 5 at 165.5 PF using new Starline brass, so it wasn't HOT by any means.

    We mentioned this case head separation condition to our squad mates, father / son team from SnS casting, and were told that it MAY have been from brass that had been "cased pro'd" before.

  11. I use the split case method of determining COL for whatever bullet I'm using. For my M&P's I go around 1.135 or less, depending on bullet and barrel being used. This isn't bench rest shooting so loading "X" off the lands won't matter much. It's an M&P, not a bull's-eye gun. If you use a U-die that'll get rid of most of the brass concerns, then load them short enough to run 100%. If you switch to a tight chamber aftermarket barrel, SL or whoever, then you'll have to chamber check the rounds or have the tight chamber modified.

  12. Blast from the past, 10 year old thread!

    OK, after 10 years what is your favorite loads for 147gr minor? It's been a long road and I'm sure you've tried many "pet" loads. Please share some of your findings.

    Thanks,

    Steve Filla

  13. The Lee carbide U die doesn't need any lube. The original Redding G-RX (non carbide) needed lube. If you just get the U-die you're pretty much covered. If your guns chamber is "that" tight you may have issues and need to chamber check your rounds and run the tight ones thru the push thru die to get them to work.

    You could always have a real gunsmith open your chamber out a little to make it less finicky.

×
×
  • Create New...