LikesToShoot
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Posts posted by LikesToShoot
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I was interested in the new Vortex, and would have gladly paid a few extra bucks for the CS and warranty, but not having a scope led me to buy the PA 1x6.
Hopefully I won't need to make use of their 3 year warranty.
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+1 on trying different ammo.Have you tried another brand of ammo ? PMC gold. its very soft shooting ammo, and short strokes with heavy Buffers
Check out this leak for posting pics.
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?s=17e3187a9a5826978b2731c5509acce1&showtopic=103674
Have you inspected the gas rings in your bolt?
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This year is my first voyage into adjustable gas and low mass setups. So far I have setup my backup rifle - a Spikes 16" mid gas with full mass carrier, Taccom ULW carbine buffer and SLR gas block.
I started w gas closed and did single shots until it locked back. I backed it down a click and no lock back, opened up by one again and it locked back. Figured I was g2g but noticed the brass was ejecting to the 2 o'clock position.
Ammo is AE223 and weather was in the teens.
Am I really good to go or should I test this again.
I am setting up my main rifle tomorrow which is an 18" Nordic, VDI low mass, SLR block and with the adjustable Taccom Rifle buffer. Same ammo and just as cold outside
In theory that looks perfect.
I'm a nobody but that looks just fine. Have your hex keys ready and if you choke on a stage during a match open it up a little more for the next run.
It's a work in progress and at the end of the day you will be much better for the knowledge that you have gained. Be it equipment, tactics, execution or whatever, the data recovered will be helpful for the next stage or match.
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Thanks for sharing; Is there a 15" tube that's very rigid with (no Flex) Running the Key Mod,or M slots all the way down the tube must be a way of reducing weight.
You might want to look at the APcustomUSA.com Rhino series. While it weighs more than their Ultra Light and new Gen II ultra light it does offer the extra rigidity and flat surfaces that some may like.
I wanted access to the gas block adjuster and Aaron said they could provide an access hole if needed. He agreed that my use of a high speed dremmel, with the correct bit, should be fine. Worked for me.
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I started single stage reloading for handguns back in the late '80's. About nine years ago I did some Bench rest and silhouette reloading with the .308 for a short time before switching to progressive handgun reloading to feed the need of IDPA, Steel Challenge and USPSA.
Now I've started reloading for the .223 and have some Varget and H4895 to work with. I found a good deal on some Hornaday 55g FMJ BT and decided to finish off the 1/3# of H4895 for local in-door three gun winter matches. A powder puff load of 20.4gr at 2.220" seems to work very well in my AR.
Next I'll try to work up some Varget loads for real rifle distance shooting until I can find some of the more favored .223 powder. I guess I have about 5# of Varget to work with.
While looking at the Hodgdons website I seen their Titegroup and Clays loads listed. Since I had a Dillon powder measure full of Clays from a recent pistol loading session I went ahead and loaded ten rounds of 55gr HDY FMJ BT .223 with 3.2gr Clays at 2.206" just for fun. As expected this was super soft, not very loud, didn't move the bolt and exited my 18" barrel with no problems. (Hodgdon lists their test barrel at 24")
I don't see any use for this in semi auto but for a bolt gun it may have a use somewhere.
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I like a flat bottom or sides for barricades.
The AP Rhino has this along with KeyMod and M-lok.
http://apcustomusa.com/product/tactical-rhino-series-carbon-fiber-handguard/#
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It'd be cheaper to buy the AR Gold than get stuck with your bar bill I'm sure
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I am trying to decide on a new forarm for my 3gun setup. I am currently using a Daniel Defense Ambush rifle that comes with a 12" MFR that I would like to sell and replace with something a bit longer and maybe more versitile for accesory mounting options without adding much more weight.
I have especially been looking at the Samson Mfg Evolution series 15" rails as is seems they are widely used in the 3gun community so they must be doing something right and they seem very comfortable.
I am looking for suggestions on wether I should go with the standard Evolution rail, or if the diversity of accessories offered for the Keymod or MLOK would be worth the added expense?
Also open to suggestions of other modular rails.
Thanks!
You certainly can't go wrong with anything from Samson.
If you wanted something a little lighter and cooler (won't get hot) look at what AP Customs USA has to offer.
http://apcustomusa.com/product/tactical-ultra-light-series-carbon-fiber-handguard/
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+1 on the AR Gold and I'm sure Jesse meant a Really Good 1911/STI type trigger, Not a good Glock trigger like some of the triggers mentionedThe AR Gold is the best I've tried. I like that it feels almost identical to my pistol triggers too.
http://www.americantrigger.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=12&Itemid=53
Exactly! My Infinity pistol trigger is 2lbs. I haven't found a pistol trigger that's better not a rifle trigger.
That AR Gold looks pretty amazing.
After your other post I thought you might have started shooting an AR pistol too.
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What dictates the minimum charge for a rifle cartridge? Lets talk about .223 specifically.
40g ballistic tip vs 55g FMJ with H335.
The minimum for a 40g in Hornady's manual is 24.3g, and 20.8g for a 55g.
Most of what Ive read seems to state that minimums are based on case capacity, however the capacity for a 40g vs 55g doesn't seem too much different. especially if you load the 40g shorter than the 55.
So why is the minimum so much lower with the 55g?
I don't know where the minimum charges come from but I'm not believing the case capacity aspect.
Look at 55gr .223 using Titegroup, the charge is only 3.1gr and it's rated at 1064 FPS and 4000 CUP per Hodgdon load data.
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/rifle
When I searched .223 and Titegroup I found many had tried this load and the bullet left the barrel OK but obviously there wasn't enough pressure to cycle the bolt.
Regarding the question "So why is the minimum so much lower with the 55g?" It's pretty typical for the heavier bullet to use less powder to get similar "pressures".
Punch in 38spl, 125gr HDY, 140gr HDY and 170gr SIE and Titegroup, this clearly shows the heavier bullet using progressively less powder charges. The COL were 1.455", 1.455" and 1.450" respectively. Charges 4.4 - 4.6gr, 3.9 - 4.2gr and 3.0 - 3.6gr respectively. Pressures were 12.8 - 15.6K, 13.1 - 15.8K and 11.1 - 16K. Of course the velocities fell dramatically 953 - 1010 FPS, 864 - 919 FPS and 635 -764 FPS.
Unlike our vehicles that use more fuel for more weight to get up a hill, heavier bullets need less powder to get to the same "pressures".
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"I can't decide on a trigger for a 3Gun build"
I really recommend that you get a trigger, it is really hard to shoot an AR without one. While you contemplate a trigger, I would also urge you to get a hammer as well or you will have a very quiet AR build.
I've spent THOUSANDS on suppressors trying to make my AR's quieter.......all I have to do is take the hammer and trigger out?
Sorry Dillon, you still have to have the trigger so your AR looks cool. Just leave the hammer out and you'll be quite as a church mouse..
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You must buy at least 2 triggers to try. Then you can post about the one that YOU prefer. It is optional to post the list of reasons your second choice came up short at only 97% in your testing. This is requirement of being a forum member, not?
I am going to venture a guess that most people have tried two triggers, Mil-spec and the one they bought, to any level of testing that would actually be beneficial for a critique.
So far, guns in the safe have Timney, JP, CMC, Hiperfire and Armalite 2 stage triggers. .
Did those guns come with those triggers or did you install them?
If you needed a new trigger would you get one of the five you already have or would you go for something different?
Thanks,
Steve
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Well I suppose one could say that the hammer reset and the trigger reset are two different things. The bolt may reset the hammer but you could have like 40lb springs or something pushing the trigger forward for a faster reset. Theoretically.
Yes, theoretically, but can us mere mortals make use of such advantages?
With so many choices its hard to judge based on price and performance, but anything is better than the stock group
I sure wish there was a "Like" tab, you nailed it with that post.
So many choices but too few of dollars, at least from where I'm posting.
My $130 , 2# trigger, should serve me well for many rounds plus let me spend more $$$ for ammo and practice
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Hmm, the Hyperfire makes the BCG cycle faster too!?
Must be true, we're reading it right here on Enos.
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Like to ask you which Jared trigger 2, 3 or 4 lb did you go with, and how much creep is there to the break. Also did you install the trigger yourself,and if so was there a spring tweak to play with like the Geisselie. The Jared trigger sure does seem like a lot of trigger for the money
Mine is the 2# trigger with zero: pre-travel, creep or over travel.
Actually this was my first AR 15 build and I just watched a few AR build videos and read the instructions then I watched this video a couple time before I started the installation. https://video.search.yahoo.com/video/play;_ylt=A2KLqILU6sJUPjwAV9n7w8QF;_ylu=X3oDMTBzM3UzbjRzBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDdmlkBHZ0aWQDBGdwb3MDMTA-?p=jared+ar+15+trigger+installation&vid=25e02d8c0f3763ae91236cc57cce67bc&l=33%3A16&turl=http%3A%2F%2Fts3.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DVN.608013455109587478%26pid%3D15.1&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fvimeo.com%2F3343700&tit=Primal+Rights%2C+Inc.+-+Jard+Trigger+Install&c=9&sigr=10o02nc82&sigt=11a3t6fn5&sigi=11rtrjmf7&age%5B0%5D=1235442220&fr2=p%3As%2Cv%3Av%2Cm%3Asa&hsimp=yhs-att_001&hspart=att&tt=b
I'm only familiar of Geisselie by name so I have nothing to say about them.
Everyone that has handled my gun flashes a BIG grin after they pull the trigger.
My smith was spot on with his recommendation, he told me I could spend more but there's no need to.
Just degrease the screws and holes, as instructed, apply the provided Loctite, install / adjust per the written instructions and forget about it after that. I found the above video was very helpful in clarifying the trigger installation and adjustments.
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I would like to add a new trigger on my existing LMT lower. I currently have a RRA 2 stage national match trigger. I like this trigger but I wish the pull weight is a little lighter and reset was a little shorter. I would like to swap this for either a Geisselie SSA-E 2-stage trigger or Geisselie SD 3Gun single stage trigger. One of the matches I'll be doing once a month is in Piru that has a few stages with several targets out to 150 yards to 325 yards. I know the SSA-E will have an advantage over the SD 3G when it comes to these long targets, but how capable is the SD 3G trigger when it comes to 100 yards or longer target distances. Hopefully some of you with plenty of experience with both triggers could chime in.
Thanks.
I asked my "smith" what trigger I should use and he recommended the Jared adjustable. I couldn't be happier with his recommendation. It's List's for around $150 and can be bought for less.
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I broke down and made my own tonight. Took some 3/4 pex, some leftover tek-lok parts, and about 30 minutes start to finish. I used two screws and no Velcro.
Pics please?
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Before spending serious cash on barrels and slide/frame fits, I'd check out the OEM gun to see if its accuracy is within YOUR personal tolerances (in other words, will the gun shoot better than you're capable of?).
+1 And if it's not, try other ammo until it is. Factory barrels shoot better than most shooters.
+2
After watching a few of Eric's video's the pistol play seems to be just fine.
Certainly he'll be shooting 40 major loads for USPSA then some 40 minor for the 3-gun stages.
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Before spending serious cash on barrels and slide/frame fits, I'd check out the OEM gun to see if its accuracy is within YOUR personal tolerances (in other words, will the gun shoot better than you're capable of?). That isn't an insult to your ability. Some factory guns are crazy accurate, especially the 5.25 guns. If you've got one that'll hold 2-3 inches at 25, it's likely accurate enough. If it won't, then the money spent on barrels and slide fitting will be worth it.
For me, I've found the most-needed areas are the trigger and then an extended mag release. Of course, for Limited and 3-G, you're going to be immediately adding a magwell and extended basepads for maximum capacity.
Appreciate the input, but I would like to know the advantages/disadvantages are with either option
IMO trigger job, mag release, magwell, and basepads are automatic - its just deciding whose products to use/have fitted where needed
Since I am thinking of going "all out" I am trying to figure out what options to go with, while keeping it as reliable as my current Limited XDm is.
After watching a few of your video links it seems you shoot your XDm pretty well already and I don't know if it would be worth the $ for a different barrel.
Springer sells a bunch of goodies that you can install yourself or just send it to him. Plus, he's one of the most helpful I seen on these threads when we run into problems.
Thanks
My plan is to build another XDm and keep what I have as a backup gun, hence why I am exploring barrel options. One of those, while your at it deals.
IMHO, the factory XDm barrel, running the right ammo, should be fine for 3gun and Limited.
Check out this audio link. http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PracticalPistolShow/~3/mNbpzABov5s/decentpistol.mp3
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I'll look in to shaving the over travel stop a bit, it's set pretty close. I also don't have the ultimate trigger so maybe that's part of it.
I think I am going to reprofile the striker release area too to more closely match the factory one, they are drastically different!
Could you post pics on what your ejector reprofile looks like? Wanted to see that too just in case.
Sure thing, I take a pic next time I pull it apart. Does a round chamber when the slide is dropped and then eject when the slide racked? If so, I don't see the ejector as part of your problem.
If the striker safety lever doesn't have enough travel to depress the safety block the striker won't be released. That was what was happening with mine.
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Slid it on my lower today to see if it would Fire, have a PRP trigger and it doesn't fire. If I really crank the trigger I can get it to fire, but it needs some work. Got some tuning to do, or maybe this is an excuse to pick up another xdm!
My trigger was set up to work fine in cold weather with the 9mm top but needed a little more relief on the over travel pad to work 100% with the conversion kit. It's something you may want to look into, a little extra over travel may be just the answer for your kit.
Since my last post I've run another 1K with normal cleaning at around 400 to 500 rounds. It eats CCI Blazer (dark bullets), and old Winchester copper washed just fine but has plenty of failures to feed with new production American Eagle.
Lucky for me I can drop by our clubs outdoor shooting range on my way home from work every day if I want to. (Obviously I have done this very often lately.) With the cold weather and limited day light I can easily shoot 100 rounds or so and be back on the road home in less than 30 minutes.
Since the slide is pretty wide at the top, like a Glock, it fits pretty tight in my Black Ice holster. Therefore, I have been practicing table starts, strong hand and weak hand shooting lately. This also saves me a little time by not having to change belts and shoot with my coat off for drawing. I do plan to rework the forward part of the slide so it fits better in my holster. Right now it does work if I loosen the holster screws but it has to be canted to fit securely.
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Before spending serious cash on barrels and slide/frame fits, I'd check out the OEM gun to see if its accuracy is within YOUR personal tolerances (in other words, will the gun shoot better than you're capable of?). That isn't an insult to your ability. Some factory guns are crazy accurate, especially the 5.25 guns. If you've got one that'll hold 2-3 inches at 25, it's likely accurate enough. If it won't, then the money spent on barrels and slide fitting will be worth it.
For me, I've found the most-needed areas are the trigger and then an extended mag release. Of course, for Limited and 3-G, you're going to be immediately adding a magwell and extended basepads for maximum capacity.
Appreciate the input, but I would like to know the advantages/disadvantages are with either option
IMO trigger job, mag release, magwell, and basepads are automatic - its just deciding whose products to use/have fitted where needed
Since I am thinking of going "all out" I am trying to figure out what options to go with, while keeping it as reliable as my current Limited XDm is.
After watching a few of your video links it seems you shoot your XDm pretty well already and I don't know if it would be worth the $ for a different barrel.
Springer sells a bunch of goodies that you can install yourself or just send it to him. Plus, he's one of the most helpful I seen on these threads when we run into problems.
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I found a kit on sale for $220 and decided to pick it up. My 9yo daughter has expressed interest in USPSA and IDPA so figured this would be a good spot for her to start. Learn with the .22 slide and then transition her to the 9mm in a few years.
Thanks for the info sounds like there is some work to be done to get it running right.
Very good price, good for you.
You may want to pick up several mags and spare parts, striker, extractor kit, recoil guide rod just in case you run into a problem.
Since my last post I've run another 1K thru the kit with factory parts, w/clipped extractor spring and reshaped extractor, and all is well.
So far my ROI has worked out really well and my $400 expenditure, kit and four mags, will have been recovered very shortly. Too bad they didn't step up during their "growing pains" with this latest XDm version.
Cleaning at no more than 500 rounds is advised, IMHO. At around 1K look for complete slide closure, per my previous pics.
Steve
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I shot maybe 150 rounds thru the kit since the last post until today's cold (30's) steel challenge club match.
This was my first steel challenge using the .22 conversion kit. I trashed my first stage by not trusting my called shots, (made many unneeded "make up" shots) and one run with an ammo / extraction issue. The next three stages went really well, once I trusted my sights, and the final stage I pushed it too far for a recorded mike.
The kit is working as I had hoped (after my mods) and I'm really glad I changed the front sight to what's familiar to me.
Modifying scope electronics
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
You might want to search you tube. There's a few video's from Burris on their scopes.
Here's some guy with vise grips that looks sure of himself.