pyrrhic3gun

hmmm, well this is an interesting problem. Already using small base dies, rounds fit into a quality gage... Do you have this extraction problem with factory ammo? Have you had the chamber checked with Go/NOGO gages? What bullet and OAL are you using? Also, I just went back to read your original post. Since you bought a trimmer, I assume you trimmed the brass after sizing it.

Are you using a small-base sizing die? That would probably help. MidwayUSA has several different brands. Their P/N for the RCBS die is #205445.

Have you used something like the StoneyPoint OAL gage to confirm that the bullets aren't sticking in the lands? Will the bolt slowly close on a resized (but unloaded) piece of brass? That might help you decide what's going on.

The 1-in-10 twist barrel (the only reason to buy this gun) shoots better than any S&W factory barrel I've ever had on any of my revos. If Smith would sell the cylinder/barrel combo as a kit, I would have put them on my 627 instead of cutting a new barrel from the Douglas 1-in-10 blank I had (thanks go out to ICORE for changing the limited "factory-only barrel" rule).

+1 on what Toolguy says. You can also do it all on the lathe by undercutting the extractor with the right shaped tool. I just hold the cylinder and extractor assembly between centers that guide off the crane bore in the cylinder on one end and the center hole in the extractor on the other end. With light cuts you can get it done just fine. Attached a pic of the way leaving some meat on the outside of the cut lets a rimmed cartridge still head space correctly, another of the undercut extractor, and a last one of the tool used to cut the extractor. Take care on measuring the depth of your cut. Have fun!

OK, I found it. http://home.fuse.net/digidot/shotcam

OK, I didn't change from XP to W7 until Windows decided not to support XP anymore. I haven't used my Burris ShotCam lately, but decided to break it out. I made an insert to use rechargeable button cells instead of the unobtainable battery. Now I can't get the software to work on Windows 7 (yes, it really has been a while)...I see the forums that claim there was a 64-bit driver, but I don't see it hosted anywhere anymore. Anybody have a copy or know where I can get it? Otherwise, I just have a bulky laser and flashlight. :^) Thanks.

My hi-tech tools...needle-nose pliers and a piece of conduit that I found in my garage. :^)

I thought this thread was dead. It's like a zombie! Dave knows of what he speaks. :^) As proof, I'll attach a pic of the 10-shot with a new Hearthco full-moon clip.

One answer might be that the brass wasn't trimmed and the case mouth was running into the die, bulging the case body at the shoulder. Another thought I had was that some of the brass might be "range brass" that had been sized to 20 Tactical. If 20Tac is resized with a 223 die, it wouldn't touch the shoulder (leading to the rounded shoulder to neck transition area) and it would squeeze the case body about .005 or .006" right where the rings are appearing.

If you're just doing this for one revo, you'd be money ahead to just send it to a competent smith.

I'm going to forward the pics to see if someone else has seen this problem. Maybe I'm imagining it, but the shoulder to neck transition radius seems larger than normal. Tell us about your case prep and die set-up. Are you gaging these loaded rounds to make sure head space is correct?

Lots of possibilities. Extractor too tight (or crud buildup behind extractor). Broken recoil spring. Broken firing pin stop dropping down and stopping slide by hitting hammer. There are others, but those are the obvious ones.

Pictures would help.

Super beat me to it. Pictures ofboth sides of the mags will tell the story.

If the rear of the ejection port is not relieved, that is where I would suspect your "ding" is coming from.

Sent you a PM.

Self-awareness is man's curse. What you make of life is all there is...and it's beautiful to have the chance. I like this quote..."wake at dawn with a winged heart and give thanks for another day of loving"...Master Po in KungFu, Episode 17.

One other thought...since it's home-brewed ammo. Are you gauging your ammo? If you're using range brass, it's possible some of the ammo has gone through Glocks (expanding the brass considerably). Cases might stick in the chamber. If that's the case, try using Lee's small base (undersize) sizing die. MidwayUSA product #687452, Lee#90787 For $20 it's worth every penny. Also, have you actually chronoed the loads? If the slide is short-stroking, it can leave a case in the chamber. Just some things to consider.

Take it to a gunsmith that knows EAA guns, if that's what it is. Otherwise, I'd say we need a lot more info...gun model, caliber, load info, any modifications, when the problem started (usually "after I changed loads"), how worn is the gun, etc. One thing I usually look at is...of the cases that actually come out, how far do they end up from the gun?.

I've counted more Elvis, Sasquatch, and UFO sightings in the last week than this thing. Does it really exist? Will we see crop circles in the shape of an 8-shot cylinder before it's available? What prophesies must we see fulfilled for it to appear?

Another thing you might check is to see if the hammer is dragging on the frame close to the firing pin area. I have seen this a number of times and narrowing the hammer in that area (NOT near the pivot pin) has helped.

Has the ejection port been lowered? That fixes a lot of those problems.

I had the same problem with some Starline Short Colt brass. My best results came from using a Lee 380ACP sizing die first, then the Dillon 38 Special Die in my SquareDeal when loading normally.

Any ideas about which distributors might actually get some of these?