pyrrhic3gun

The offending part (with 17838 stamped on it) can be easily removed. Take that assembly off the press, grind the back of the pivot holding the two pieces together and pull the pivot out with some pliers. Reassemble the single arm to the press. Done. Just like the original SDB. If you still have problems with a sticky downstroke take the powder funnel out and turn it down to a diameter that will easily slip into a sized case.

I think you misidentified the "cajun airconditioning". Are you sure that isn't the original airboat used by Jerry's great-great-uncle (George Alcibeaud) to cross the Red River in the famous painting?

I had similar issues one time, when the trigger bow broke (cracked through) where the take-up tab is on the front of the bow.

I know what dis is...it's an espresso machine...no, no, no, it's a snow cone maker.

Just put a medium cratex cylinder on your dremel and go to town. A few passes on the offending clips will fix them. Maybe. :^)

If the stage designer puts a target or short wall a meter or two downrange from the last shooting position, the reflected sound is usually picked up even from rimfire rifles. I've seen the yardstick option used with two timers just to make sure it picks up the last shot and it seems to work.

I agree with AHI's #1. I began reloading 9s after a long layoff due to COVID restrictions. Had the wrong bullet seater in my press. Caused these off-center bulges at the base of the bullet and some bullets were even obviously crooked in the case. Put in the round nose seater and it fixed the problem. So, you want to make sure you have the right seater to guide those huge hollow-points into the case straight.

The easy answer...take it to a competent gunsmith. Otherwise, many questions. Does your gun have the ILS (Integral Locking System) mainspring housing? Replace that with a standard housing and parts. Is it chambered too deep? Is the firing pin bent? What size gauge pin will go through the breech face? Does the firing pin match that size? What size gauge pin will fit in the firing pin large bore in the slide? Is the firing pin dragging in the bore? Have you made sure the bore in the slide is cleaned out? What length is your firing pin overall? Does the firing pin stop center the firing pin in its bore? What is the protrusion of the firing pin from the stop? At rest does the hammer push the firing pin in and sit on the firing pin stop or is there slack that allows the hammer to feel loose? Is the hammer strut pin loose in the hammer where it can drag on the frame (this one drove me crazy with an STI)? Is the bore in the mainspring housing clean? Does it allow the plunger to move freely or is it dragging? Is the bottom housing pin retainer in place? Sorry for writing a book, but these answers should help solve your problem.

To YSR: my first response was "whuuut?" Try to imagine Kevin Bacon's voice in Tremors. Then I realized it was you. :^)

I'll add my 2 cents. It appears you have a the standard MIM trigger which uses no pin to keep the hand spring in place. Make sure you are putting the short leg of the spring in the slot provided in the trigger and the long leg is on the side closest to the hand.

I would like to see a picture of the lower detent ball in the crane on that model 986, if you please Mr. YSRRACER. This is certainly a new one to me and pointless IMHO. Same can be said for the model 986. :^)

I'm with Farmer on this. Any springs you changed in the lower don't affect how hard the striker hits the primer in the MechTech. In my experience, there is a very narrow piece of metal on the bolt that guides the striker on one side. I call it a "fence". That broke off on my first bolt and caused some problems. One of the things I did was narrow the sear, so it wouldn't catch that piece when the bolt closes. In other words, I took metal from the sear so it only catches the striker and doesn't hit that "fence" that supports the striker or the bolt on the other side of the striker. I also had other misfires caused by the striker having a squared shoulder where the striker enters the firing pin bore of the bolt. See the attached pic. I carefully beveled that piece and touched the edge of the firing-pin bore with a carbide drill to bevel it a little (very little) to allow the striker to enter that bore easier. Additionally, I put a lighter Glock striker spring (just happens to fit) with the Glock maritime cups on the striker (not shown in the pic). The cups keep the spring centered on the striker. There was no provision for that on the OEM striker and the spring drags in the main bolt bore. Now for a cautionary word. This will probably void your warranty. But it is what worked for me. The striker is a nicely machined assembly and is loctited, so to disassemble will take a little carefully applied heat.

Incidentally, If you need to sell the pinto, ask the Rocket. He might be ready to get back into revos. :^)

Had a tight spot in the bore about halfway down. Couldn't lap it out. So, made a new barrel. Here's a pic.

Here's a pic of my reverse color scheme PC 38 Super (unfluted cyl) 627 before a needed barrel change.

I would say pull the handle a little harder. :^)

There are these things called cleaning brushes. Google it. :^) Is the pic of the original cylinder or the replacement cylinder that was found to be bad? Or was that your 627? What thickness of moon clips are you using? Get the .040 if you don't have them. Check all your moon clips for flatness. They need to be dead flat when you are trying for a light trigger pull. Any bend in the moon creates a spring effect that soaks up some of the energy in the firing pin/hammer drop. Attention to every detail is required. That's why the Rocket doesn't like revos. :^) As far as factory ammo, forget it. Load you own with the Lee undersize die, using Win brass (nickel plated if you can find it), make sure the Federal primers are fully seated (and I mean almost crushed). Or you could just sell it and buy a Glock. :^) sarcasm warning*

Well, I just used gage pins on my 625 and the minor diameter (cylinder throat) of the pilot has to be less than .453" and the major diameter (chamber) has to be .477" or less to drop all the way into my gun's chamber. S&W is known to produce guns with undersize chambers, so it's really no surprise that the pilot doesn't drop all the way in. You can have a gunsmith run a chamber reamer and an appropriate size throater into the cylinder or have the pilot turned to the correct diameter to work with your gun. Using gage pins will tell you the diameters you need.

What are the minor/major diameters of the pilots? Please show us pics of the two pilots.

When people started competitively shooting "Baumanized" revos in the early 90's, the extra 7th shot was a big deal, since all that was available were 6-shooters. So, Smith decided it was a good idea to get a piece of the pie. Of course, very quickly RPM started making 8-shooters, but it took Smith a while to start producing the 627 eight-shots. So the 7-shot is an interim design. And some people prefer the slightly smaller frame size.

Two questions. Of the loads you have tried, what was the most accurate? What is an acceptable group, in your opinion? I've never tested my CMMG for 50 yard groups, since we don't usually have access to that range for the USPSA matches that I shoot. So, if I dare leave my house (thanks CoVid) and test at 50, I'll let you know if mine does any better. I'm thinking, that my red dot sight may be a limiting factor., so a third question. Are you using a magnified sight?

Saw this happen to a shooting buddy. Desired load was 4.5 grains, he was loading .45 grams (6.9 grains). Luckily, it was a relatively slow burning powder. As it was, he was shooting a major load in his 9mm auto. No wonder we thought it sounded "hot". :^)

I have followed this thread with interest. After looking at S&W's forum this is a common problem. Have you actually measured the threads on the barrel? If they're too small from the factory, they will probably never work right. Probably not the problem, but I would think S&W would replace parts that are incorrect. Or, more likely, the threads on the shroud nut are bottoming before the shroud is gripped well. I would probably turn a short area behind the muzzle threads on the barrel to the minor diameter so the muzzle nut could tighten down further. Also, I suppose you could have a machinist drill the frame and pin the barrel (like the old smith revos).

All this discussion is why I suggested you use a different powder. Also, I'm wondering if your technique for chrono set-up is up to par. When you're here in the "land of the free", we'll discuss how it should be done. And you can ignore that advice too. :^)

Back in the last millenium, when everyone was shooting EAA/P9/tanfoglio in 9x21 those things would bend and break slide stops all the time. It will also crack the frame through the slide stop hole area. Are you shooting hot ammo? EGW sells tool-steel slide stop pins.