pyrrhic3gun
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Posts posted by pyrrhic3gun
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Look to see if the sear is hitting the trigger as it flies by after the hammer drops from the trigger's secondary ledge ( or whatever you call the ledge that picks up the hammer at the hand off from the sear).
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OK, I'll add my 2 cents worth. I just grabbed a handful of my sized 9mm brass and ran some pin gauges in them. I'm using the U-die. The ranged from .346" to .348" ID varying by headstamp.
I think whoever it was that cautioned about the powder funnel expanding the brass is correct.
I turn my powder funnels on a lathe to make sure they're not affecting the neck tension.
Just measured my funnel with a micrometer and came up with .343", so you can see it's not expanding my brass. Now, the brass looks a little bulged when loaded (like the snake that just ate a mouse), but no creep to speak of, since it's really grabbing the bullet. After a match, I measure the overall length of the rounds that are left in full-moon clips and reseat the ones that are .005" longer than I loaded them. There aren't many, maybe 3 to 5 per 100 fired. But definitely none that are anywhere close to disassembling themselves in the gun.
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Don't do it! I have spent a lot of effort getting one to work. The main problem is the rotary magazine isn't designed to cam the rim of the case up under the extractors. The Savage Mark II magazine works in that design because it is designed properly. My solution was to gut the rotary mag and fix a Mark II magazine within it in the proper position. I'll attach a pic. Also the extractors need help by drilling holes in the bolt body and putting springs under the extractors to get a better grip on the bullet case. The trigger can be improved, but theres
a lower limit at about a pound where the trigger won't reset properly.
If you have to have a Savage, get a Mark II.
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So, I'm interested to hear the rest of the story. I see from the results that she shot well enough to get 3rd Junior. Congrats to her! What load did you settle on? Did she get the chip in the bag and have to chrono?
If so what did they chrono at speedwise?
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I suggested 3.0 of 320...I was using 1.2" OAL with the 160. A little longer, a little less pressure for that load. Still well under maximum 9mm pressure.
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Considering that I see a loss of about 100 fps due to the cylinder gap, I would suggest you try 3.5 of the N320 under your 145s.
My QuickLoad program says you need 3 grains under the 160 to make 124 pf. At this point, why try to cut it too close?
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I've been shooting the Xtreme 220 grain bullet in a 40 S&W STI, but I feel like it just isn't stabilized enough to suit me.
Anybody know where I can get a 5" 1-in-10 twist barrel with a W/N ramp? Bull or bushing profile is OK.
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I have Mechtech units for 1911, Glock, and Xdm. All of them have the extractor pivoted with a pin holding them and the described "L" shaped spring that tensions them. Since you said most of the problem went away with an extended ejector, I wonder if a lighter main spring (the one that drives the hammer) in the 1911 lower might help it fully cycle. You may have to experiment to see how light you can go without starting to have light strikes on the primer. I have also lightened the bolt carrier on some of mine, depending on the load to be used.
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The 30 Super Carry operates at a considerably higher pressure (52,000psi max), so I'm sure any potential maker of a revo in this caliber will take into consideration the possible liability.
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Duncan, Oklahoma has the SCRAP club. They shoot fairly often. It's only 60 miles from WF.
Make sure you get a place with a storm cellar. :^) That's tornado alley.
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A knowledgeable revo smith will square the cylinder between a mandrel and a center in a lathe. Then set the barrel back enough to be able to square the end of the barrel while establishing the proper gap. Find somebody that can do it.
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Looks like I'm late to the party again. But let me tell you what I discovered on my 929 a few weeks ago.
One of the hammer pins was creeping out and was starting to drag on the side plate. So I would get an unusual drag in mid stroke of the trigger. And of course no drag with the side plate off. Luckily, I took a close look to see and there was the drag mark. I wonder if you may have a pin that's loose enough to occasionally move out and drag on the frame. Let us know what Tom K has to say.
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I'm pretty sure you mean Blue Dot, as there are like 50 powders between Green Dot and AA-7.
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Go to 1Gun.org and check out their rules. Under Penalties 5.4 (That Guy rule), it's a 60 second penalty on the first call and a DQ on the second call of "not helping". Maybe you and some like-minded guys need to start a club using their rules. It's a new and interesting concept for a match and it might be the challenge you're looking for.
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If you shoot any matches in Phoenix, just ask the Glock shooters.
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Yes it sounds like the diagnosis has changed. Here's my question... Have you checked the orientation of the firing pin return spring in the bolt?
Here is Kidd's installation Note:This compression spring is directional in nature due to one end being conical. When installing the spring be sure to keep the larger end of the spring toward the bolt face and the smaller end (conical) towards the rear.I've seen a number of threads that indicate this is a cause of misfires. -
Here's some pics.
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Sorry, I'm late to this thread. I've had good luck with modding Browning Hi-Power mags from ProMag (both 20 rounders and 30 rounders). This involves moving the locking cut for the mag release down .480" by cutting a new cut with a small endmill (could be different on yours...just take out the mag catch and mark the mag), then cutting a relief for the lock-back lever on the top left of the mag (just look at where the lever touches the mag), and finally relieving the follower a little so it doesn't lock back with one round left in the mag. I think these mags work better because they have a bigger dimple on both sides of the mag and align the bullets better in the mag.
I've got another tip for the Camp 9. The buffer in my gun and the extra buffer that I had both are so old that the pounding from the bolt crushed them into granola chips and stopped the gun. When that buffer goes, it breaks the strut bridge and mangles things. Buy a Power Custom buffer from Brownells or MidwayUSA (and maybe a spare too). The fix for that deserves another thread. :^)
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OK, I'll try. When you put the bolt and carrier in the upper, will it go all the way flush with the rear of the upper? Or is something stopping it out of battery?
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While neither of those powders are what I would call ideal, I notice that Hodgdon's load data website has a recipe for 135 grain 9mm loads using LongShot.
A faster powder would probably better suited. I notice Powder Valley's website has a couple of faster powders available as of this writing (who knows how long they'll be available). Here in the valley, Bruno's (on Central near Deer Valley airport) might have something you need.
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Not complicated. The return
rod still acts the same way.
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Not all brass has the same thickness on the cartridge rim and can bind on a revo with minimum tolerances. Check the gap from brass to the rear shield with a fired case that was difficult to rotate...or you could find one that offends and pull the bullet to measure safely. I hope you have cleaned under the star.
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Yep, I referenced the part number stamped on the one to remove. Don't know what powder you are using, but I've never had to "tap the powder throat", unless that's some kind of euphemism. :^)
rod still acts the same way.
627 end shake / gap
in Revolver Forum
Posted
Squirrel, just take it to a real gunsmith and have the crane stretched appropriately.