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Hack

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Posts posted by Hack

    Is it okay to use magnum small pistol primers in .223 reloads?

    in Rifle/Shotgun

    Posted

    Okay, Gary from Federal called me back.

    He said NO, I should not use anything in 223 reloads except small rifle or mag small rifle primers - and definitely not small pistol primers of any kind.

    He said the risk of slam fires and/or the risk of piercing the thin skin of a small pistol primer is why.

    So, like many of you told me, it's a resounding "NO" to using small magnum pistol primers in 223 reloads.

    He didn't say anything about reduced loads and I didn't ask. If you want to pursue it, the Federal's phone number is above this reply.

    Thought I'd let you all know.

    Hack

    Is it okay to use magnum small pistol primers in .223 reloads?

    in Rifle/Shotgun

    Posted

    Is it okay to use magnum small pistol primers in .223 reloads?

    Seeing how there's no small rifle primers anywhere, I'm wondering if anyone has ever used magnum small pistol primers in .223 reloads?

    Hack

    During the last primer shortage. I was told by Federal that their small pistol magnum primer and small rifle primers are the same in different packaging.

    Sherwyn

    WOW, I didn't know that.

    Thanks

    Hack

    Thanks to Wolf, got a chance to use my new bullet puller.

    in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment

    Posted · Edited by Hack

    Thanks to Wolf, got a chance to use my new bullet puller.

    It's either my LCP or Wolf small pistol primers. I think its the Wolf primers. Many times I pulled the trigger and nothing happened.

    I removed the round looked at the primer, saw a dent. Sometimes, when I put the round back in and puller the trigger, it fired. That's why I think I got some lousy Wolf primers.

    So, I got out my brand new, Hornady Cam Lock bullet puller and, after fiddling with it, pulled 200 bullets from my other .380 reloads, knocked out the Wolf primers and easily captured the powder. Didn't take no time at all.

    Then, I re-primed the cases with Federal small pistol primers and reloaded them.

    Now, I'm gonna see if the Federal Primers go bang - every time. The Federals weren't my first choice, but I couldn't find any CCIs.

    But, I sure was happy with the Cam Lock Puller. I don't want to even think about using my hammer puller to pull 200 bullets.

    Here's what it looks like:

    http://www.midwayusa.com/viewp...productnumber=851547

    You have to buy the collets separately, but obviously, the collet I used to pull the .380 bullets will also work with 9mm, 38 and 357.

    PS - this is the first time Wolf primers have given me any trouble. I use 'em in my 9mm, 357 and 40 SW reloads, and have had no problems - knock on wood.

    Hack

    Hornady UNIQUE Case Lube is good for me.

    in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment

    Posted

    Hornady UNIQUE Case Lube is good for me.

    I just started reloading .223 and had a couple of stuck cases.

    I put together a homemade "stuck case removal kit" and have used it several times.

    Then, someone told me about Hornady's UNIQUE Case lube. You just rub you fingers across its surface and as you handle the cases, it lubes them.

    This stuff is really good. Since I started using it, I haven't had a stuck case - not even close. About every 5 cases I swipe my fingers across the UNIQUE.

    I'm still figuring out how far I can go before I have to retouch the UNIQUE.

    Thought I'd share my success with you all.

    There was another product a lot like this one called Imperial Case Wax. I looked at it, but the Hornady product was packaged twice the amount and it was a few bucks cheaper.

    Hornady UNIQUE Lube - http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productnumber=758495

    Imperial Case Wax - http://www.midwayusa.com/Search/Default.as...-_1-2-4_8-16-32

    Hack

    Wondering about using a bore snake to clean dies.

    in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment

    Posted

    Wondering about using a bore snake to clean dies.

    I just received my new Hornady .223 Rem New Dimension dies and know I need to clean them to get the preservative off/out of them.

    I have a bore snake for my .223/5.56 AR and was wondering if there was any reason why I couldn't just pull the snake through the new dies.

    I figure to clean the dies just like I'd clean and lube the bore of a pistol.

    In fact, I'm thinking about using a snake to do all my periodic die cleaning chores.

    What do you think?

    Hack

    Another stuck case in resizing die thread - for the reloading newbees.

    in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment

    Posted · Edited by Hack

    What lube were you using?

    I've stuck a few using one-shot. If you do not shake really well or it gets to the bottom of the can, you will stick one.

    I have yet to stick one with the Dillon pump stuff.

    I've been using One Shot with no problems at all on my straight walled brass.

    Many have recommended Imperial Wax and Hornady's Unique to me.

    Both are sold by Midway and both have rave reviews, with Imperial having about 3 x's more. You swipe your finger tips across the wax and as you handle your brass, it gets lubed.

    The prices are:

    Imperial - 6.49 for 2 ozs (and it was on sale)

    Hornady - 4.09 for 4 ozs

    I'm gonna try the Hornady Unique.

    Hack

    Another stuck case in resizing die thread - for the reloading newbees.

    in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment

    Posted · Edited by Hack

    Another stuck case in resizing die thread - for the reloading newbees.

    As most know, I have tons of experience with straigth walled cases. In all my years of reloading I have never stuck one, no not one.

    But that record is gone. I stuck the very first .223 Rem case I tried in my .223 Lyman resizing die yesterday - the very first one I tried to resize, dang it. I guess I didn't lube it enough - lesson learned. And I was warned to watch out for .223, dah on me.

    So, I went to Lowe's and bought me a #7 drill bit, a 1/4-20 tap, and a 1/4-20 tap bolt.

    Before I left for Lowe's I gave the sides of the stuck case a few shots of Kroil - figured it couldn't hurt.

    I was happy to see that DeWalt packages a #7 drill bit and a 1/4-20 tap in a single package - how convenient.

    Then, I went to the hardware section and bought a 1/4-20 x 2 inch tap bolt - it is threaded all the way from top to bottom.

    While looking for the tap bolt, I saw a 1.5 inch spacer and bought that, too, even though I realize a socket would have worked as well. But I was assembling the parts for a homemade stuck case remover set and I did not want to assign my socket to it.

    I already had bunches of 1/4, 3/16, 1/2 inch washers to go on top of the spacer, so I didn't have to buy any of them.

    I also bought a tap wrench (that was the major expense). I didn't really need it, but it sure made the task easier.

    To actually remove the stuck case here's what I did:

    1- I was able remove the deprimer/decapper pin so I knew I was not going to hit it with the #7 drill bit. I was trying to get it up out of the way and was happy that it came out. Otherwise, I would have tried to drill w/o hitting the depriming pin (at least, if I had hit it, it is replaceable.

    2- After putting the die in my padded vise, I used the #7 drill bit to drill through the hole in the center of the primer pocket

    3- Then, I used the 1/4-20 tap to thread the hole I had just drilled into the primer pocket.

    4- Next, I placed the spacer on the die around the stuck case.

    5- Finally, I put a number of washers on the bolt and then inserted the bolt through the spacer and screwed it into the threaded hole I drilled into the case.

    6- Then, I just tightened down on the bolt and felt it smug up and stop against the washers atop the spacer. Time to get a long handle ratchet. The long handled ratchet made quick work of it. The spinning bolt pulled that stuck case right out into the spacer.

    But you know, I was wondering. Instead of just turning the bolt, would it have been more efficient to put a nut on the bolt, and then hold the bolt while I tightened the nut against the washers on top of the spacer. That way, instead to the bolt turning as it pulled, the bolt would have just pulled the case straight up (like the press ram pulls it straight down).

    I know I just reinvented the wheel, but buying these few parts was a lot less costly the buying one of those stuck case removal kits online.

    This thread is the compilation of much research on how to remove a stuck case, so I thought I'd give you all a "Cliff Notes" version on removing a stuck case form a resizing die..

    Hope no one minds.

    Hack

    Got lucky - for once - found some .223 Rem dies.

    in Rifle/Shotgun

    Posted · Edited by Hack

    Lyman Products list that part # as a 2 die full length sizer die and bullet seater die set. You should be GTG.

    Do you have a 223 case gauge? That will help you set the die to the specs you need.

    No, I don't have a case gauge, I'm still setting up what I need, I guess I need to add that to my list.

    Thanks

    Hack

    Got lucky - for once - found some .223 Rem dies.

    in Rifle/Shotgun

    Posted

    size three or four pieces of mixed brass , wipe them down after you have lubed and sized them .

    now with out a primer or bullet camber the empty brass in your gun with they cycle by hand.

    If so thin take the bolt out and drop the brass into the chamber and see if it will fall out when you tip the muz up, or will it fall out when you bump the barrel . you may have to push it back out with a rod from the muz end.

    If all that works put one in the chamber and push it in hard with a long dowel or something soft that will not scratch if it slips off the brass. After you pushed it in hard and seated it good , = will it drop out when you tip the barrel up again.

    That should tell you what you want to know about how well you set of dies size the brass.

    Thanks, will do.

    Hack

    Backordered Hornady LNL AP today

    in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment

    Posted

    I am not meaning to be argumentative but I just looked at the Hornady site and the LNL AP press plus case feeder lists for $921.35. The Dillon XL650 w/casefeeder is $739.95. Where did you get such a deal on the Hornady?

    I am a loyal Hornady customer, but I never buy from the company. They are always much more expensive than Midway, Nachez, etc.

    Hack

    Got lucky - for once - found some .223 Rem dies.

    in Rifle/Shotgun

    Posted · Edited by Hack

    Got lucky - for once - found some .223 Rem dies.

    I've been searching high and low for some .223 Rem dies (either RCBS or Hornady) so I can reload for my new 5.56 AR.

    Everywhere I looked was sold out, on back order, etc.

    Well, I was out in the garage, tidying up my reloading area when I spied a box of reloading stuff my father-in-law gave to me many years ago.

    In the box were Lyman dies for 44 Mag, 30.06, 30-30, 243 and .223 Rem - I couldn't believe my good fortune - 223 Rem, just what I'd been searching for.

    Now, where's my question. Hopefully some of you guys have a set of Lyman .223 Rem dies (# 7457111). Are these Lyman .223 dies (I don't if they are small base) gonna work to reload .223 for my AR (being how its a semi-auto and some .223 dies don't do so good with semi-autos.).

    Maybe I can stop my search for RCBS or Hornady 223 Remington dies.

    Hack

    Has anyone had Springfield Armory custom shop work on your barrel?

    in 1911-style Pistols

    Posted · Edited by Hack

    The Springfield Custom Shop has a really good reputation. Dave Williams runs it. (His wife is Debbie Williams, the person in charge of sposnsorships for matches, She's a good lady to know). I believe they do all the custom work on Robbie's guns and have been doing most of the work for the FBI HRT and SWAT teams for awhile. I felt some of the XD's they had on display at SHOT and was very impressed. Not sure where you are located but Springer Precision in Oregon and Canyon Creek in Illinois also do great work.

    I'm in Columbus, GA and I've about decided to get just the Heinie Straight 8 sights, and leave the barrel alone. I just don't want to pay to get UPS or FedEx to ship it overnight, if the whole gun is needed to do the barrel.

    I rather just send the slide for the sights - lot cheaper shipping costs.

    Hack

    Pics of my homemade Vibra-Prime

    in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment

    Posted · Edited by Hack

    Hack,

    If you make another with a removable tube, try coating the tube with wax, shoe polish, chap stick, or other release agent. Then use epoxy or rifle bedding rosyn or something that doesn't get hot. The release agent will let you get the tube out after the glue gets hard.

    I used shoe polish and epoxy putty to bed my 10/22 stock. Worked great.

    Now that makes sense. I think I'll try shoe polish, or maybe even chapstick.

    The epoxy you used - was it the kind that came in two tubes and then you had to mix the pastes together? Come to think of it, JB Weld might make a good solid base to slide the primer tubes into.

    Hack

    Pics of my homemade Vibra-Prime

    in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment

    Posted · Edited by Hack

    from this thread

    http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...c=64594&hl=

    first off the Custom piece of plastic cut to preven the primers from flipping sideways when they leave the main tray area. It's important to use a piece of clear plastic so that you can see what's going on. the odd primer still does try to go sideways (they are crafty little buggers)

    customprimertubefiller002.jpg

    Next are three shots of the custom cut pieces of carboard. You'll notice I inserted 4 pieces into the back of the support area of the tray, folded another one around the front, and then folded another one to go down the front and around the other piece I folded. I then taped it all down with hockey tape.

    customprimertubefiller003.jpg

    customprimertubefiller004.jpg

    customprimertubefiller006.jpg

    Finally the tube is inserted with the yellow pick up end removed. I prefill about 10 tubes, putting the yellow end back on after they are full.

    customprimertubefiller007.jpg

    only change I've done is to glue the plastic part that covers the primers final path onto the Lee tray. I also trimmed that piece of plastic to look more "factory" hahaha.

    never did get around to stealing a vibe from the gf. I got a rather nasty look at the idea. apparently we don't have any that are "broken". the tumbler works great anyhow.

    I definitely like the idea of inserting tube after tube and filling up several. I may have to take mine apart, maybe I can remove the pickup tube w/o disturbing the hot glue - then re-insert it. If it works I can do like you and fill several tubes in a row.

    But do you agree that our "devices" beat the heck out of the old fashioned pick-up tube?

    I'll try it this weekend.

    Thanks for the pics

    Hack

    Has anyone had Springfield Armory custom shop work on your barrel?

    in 1911-style Pistols

    Posted

    Has anyone had Springfield Armory custom shop work on your barrel?

    I'm sending my XD45 slide to SA to have them install a set of Heinie Pro Slant Straight 8 sights for $105 and that includes the sights.

    On the form to accompany any custom work, I also see that SA will:

    Install Springfield Custom match barrel ($190)

    or

    Refit existing factory barrel for match grade accuracy ($105)

    Has anyone done either of the above?

    I wonder if the match barrel is worth the $85 more than the refitted barrel?

    Thanks

    Hack

    Pics of my homemade Vibra-Prime

    in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment

    Posted

    I made mine so the tube was removable, that way I could load a bunch of tubes in advance, or have a buddy doing it whiile I loaded. I use one of my Midway tumblers to provide the needed vibration. works faster than the RF100 but you do have to sit there holding it.

    By what method did you align the tube so the primers would flow and not back-up. Your idea may beat mine. It would be nice to slip in a tube, load it, remove it and do anther.

    Got any pics?

    Hack

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