Liide

It must be those Bayou bullets.

The magazine release button in your gun shouldn't be older design, but if it is, magazines hangs lower and those kind of feeding problems may occur.

If its not the sear, it must be the trigger bar.

If it is original flat Tanfoglio trigger, the size is 1.5mm.

First you have to find out if there is a live ammo in chamber. Cleaning rod is good for that. If the pistol is "hot", put some rubber between the hammer and the firing pin. Carefully lower the hammer. Now you can start hammering your comp/barrel backward to get it out of battery. Stop when it has moved enought to get the slide pin out. When the slide pin is out, you can start to force the slide/barrel forward. Use plastic hammer or screwdriver. As you can see, it's not difficult. I did that with one screwdriver. Yes, and don't forget that live ammo in the chamber!

I believe your barrel leg broke. Several years ago same thing happened to my Tanfoglio Limited Custom HC 40.

When you do this process of undersizing the brass. I see you change your maglips to 0.390" Do you think it would still run good with standard 0.395" lips also or will it pop out of the mag? Undersizing? You don't have to undersize, but you must resize your brass. You can use Dillon's resizing die, just remove inner parts and push your brass through it. You don't have to modify your die or your mag lips. KISS!

http://www.tanfoglio.it/uploads/docs/publicpricelist2010.pdf I think you should be happy with your "high" prices. Just to remind you, 1 euro is 1.38 US Dollars.

It is 1.5mm. Metric system because it is European made.

Nightmares? No? Try Viagra? It is hard to believe that there is something wrong with your maglips, I mean 1200 rounds and never full mags. Impossible, I say. Take your extractor out and clean it, extractor hole also. Check it's tension. It's easy and no need to use money. I also use Starlines 38 TJ's with my V8 Tanfoglio. I've pushed them through my Dillon recizing die. After that treatment my TJ's are really straight wall cases. The bottom or belly or whatever it is called looks a little strange but function goes first, I think. And, my Tanfoglios works 100%. Try with 30 used cases and you'll see.

Different frame parts are: -Mag well -Grip panels -Trigger bar Different upper parts: -everything else except extractor, it's spring and stop plate. Both frames use same slide stop.

Yerterday 1 euro was 1.3755 US dollars. If you want to save some monney, you can buy Gram's follower and spring kit from Henning's shop. 19.95 US dollars.

Jostein, are your feeding and scratching problems now solved? You know, when some Glock- or Sti-shooters tell you what works best for them, it does not mean that it works with your Tanfoglio. If you want to make your Tanfoglio a reliable functioning gun, you have to use pushing through die. Dillon's resizing die works well. If you use Dillon you don't even have to re-shape your magazine's lips. I have had "fun" with my Tanfoglios since 1993, and now that I have learned few things I really have FUN! The gun is very good, you just have to feed it well. Next summer is your summer?

I have had same problem with my Tanfoglios. But not anymore. I noticed some scratches on both sides of the hammer. There was some side to side play on both the hammer and the slide. The hammer was hitting the slide and/or sear housing. I took some metal off from both sides of the hammer and that's all. Problem solved. Remember, take material only from upper areas of the hammer. I also rounded sharp corners of the hammer's checkered area because some of my hammers have cracked earlier. The job was easy. I used machine like shown on the picture. I don't know what it is called in english. http://www.google.fi/imgres?imgurl=http://www.rautajatti.fi/images/hbm_150x2000_nauhahiomakone_3_rautajatti.fi_0903_102.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.rautajatti.fi/product_details.php%3Fp%3D14&h=693&w=520&sz=57&tbnid=tn1zWn8mdR_OHM:&tbnh=139&tbnw=104&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dnauhahiomakone&zoom=1&q=nauhahiomakone&hl=fi&usg=__NY3bWXll1FvRGHoTJqWZGuUrkhw=&sa=X&ei=jC4aTZ3dBsGDhQeF5bG3Dg&ved=0CCwQ9QEwAQ

Hi! I had the same scratching problem with my Dillon dies years ago. At that time I used some silicone stuf. It seemed to me that media dust stuck into cases and dies, causing the scratches. So I chanced my procedures. I begun to wash my cases in my Dillon mediacase separator. Hot water, Fairy (washing liquid) and some citric acid, then I let it roll, baby roll. After few minutes rolling (noise!) I washed the foam away with hot water. Finally I added some microfiber cleaning clothes and then, some rolling again. (By the way, when cleaning your magazines, using microfiber cleaning clothes is the best way.) In room temperature it takes few days before cases are dry. No more scratched cases, and because of citric acid, cases look almost like new. Primer problem is easily solved, re-shape the point of decapping pin, make it little thinner.

So, you have an open class gun with a long dustcover, and now your new slide is shorter than your dustcover? It must be painfull to look at. Maybe you should shorten your dustcover? In my opinion full-lenght dustcover looks ugly anyway and it don't belong to an open class pistol. WIth 29 round magazine, point, bullbarrel and comp they are allready heavy enough.

I've taken all off of it. It's not enough. Overtravel is minimum and pretravel is also minimum. I want the trigger movement be more like 1911-style. Is it possible? I don't know. How close we can get? Close, I hope!

Hi! I'm planning to buy EGW's trigger group from Henning. If it needs "final stoning", how do I do it? I don't want to do it without somekind of jig, not anymore. So, where to get one? Another guestion: How to shorten pre-travel (trigger reset)? Take material from the trigger shoe where it contacts sear leg, or from the sear leg? More light! Ari