Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Joe A.

Members
  • Posts

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Joe A.

  1. Allfat , Just a quick reply to say thank you for responding to my question...I was able to push the sight out with a punch and a few light taps..I did not see any sign of sight tabs having been melted apon installing at the factory,,yet,, if the need to use a soldering iron come into play,,your suggestion will be applied...From this side of Virginia,,my best wishes to you........JoeA
  2. I have been asked to re-Parkerizing a slide for a KelTec PF9 when ever I had a "justified" amount to set up the "cook pot"...The issue I have is with the front sight..It appears to be plastic and press fitted into the slide. I am unsure,, if,, I attempt to use a punch to "love tap" this sight out,,will I damage the "studs" that pass through the slide?...I have the "belief" that the 190 degree Parkerizing bath may not be at a temperature that would cause any harm to the plastic,,on the other side of my madness,,the glass bead blasting to prep the slide maybe a wee-bit on the harsh side...I realize I should get this slide "down right naked" before it is put into the cook pot....What is your thoughts concerning this sight removal?...Many thanks for whatever replies I may recieve...JoeA
  3. Did some toy-ing with my photos in an attempt to resize a photo that shows my drive link to my home made drum. The drum is made from 8 inch utility water pipe..The drive link is a simple square plug that fits into the base of the drum.. Hope you do not think that I'm jumping into your posting,,I like your effort and steel media does do a great job...
  4. Sometimes the need,,promotes the braincells to come up with sometime more then a brain fart. Yes,reduction gear drive motors are pricey,,attempting to get the right desired R.P.M. with pulleys and belts is not practical. As a hobby machinist,with the ability to cut gears and fabracate an enclosure,,if I put a dollar amount on the raw matteral cost,,and time invested to produce a reduction drive gearing,,along with the correct shaft alignment,,it is more practical it locate a preassimbled motor and drive unit and deal with the drum and drive connections that will produce rotation.My photos exceed kilobite rate to upload a photo of my drum and drive system,,with PM to anyone that is interested...can be reached at < aircavvietnam@yahoo.com > Also if anyone can advise me how to reduce a JPEG image that has 2.38 MB (2.497,782 bytes) to a size that will not excees the 500 k size allowed to post an image would be appreciated...JoeA
  5. Greeting to the group, I need to have a couple of pistol receivers Anodized. Wondering if there is anyone that has the ability to do the process. I can do the bead blasting and have them "basically" clean. Will ship one of the Parkerized barrels to have on hand to for compariion..Not looking for a perfect match,,just a more durable coating then what I suspect that an epoxy coating would do..Can be contacted at < aircavvietnam@yahoo.com >
  6. Kevin and toothandnail, thanks for your replies. As an update, I went to the range to test and re-zero. The Viridian was quick to zero after setting it up using the sights as a reference. Within couple of mags,I had tight groups in my desired "x" ring at 25 feet. Kevin, you stated that a Walther PK380 does not an "open" pistol. The desire and use of this sighing system as far as my son's position has a past event that I wish to pass on so you will have some logic to his madness in the grander scheme of past and present time. My son has spent his past four years completing the necessary requirements to inter Veterinary school at Virginia Tech in Blacksburg Va. The apartment complex that he and his roommate reside has a history of break-ins and had my Ruger P95 in his possession. His roommate had returned home for the weekend,so my son was by himself and did not expect anyone to be entering the apartment while he was studying. He was in the living room and for whatever reason,had the Ruger resting beside him. He heard the door being kicked in and rolled off the couch bring-ing the Ruger on to one of the two persons that were coming into the apartment. One of the individuals had a small revolver in his hand. Once these two realized that this situation was not in their favor,turned and made a hasty retreat. No shots were fired...After several minutes had past and my son composed himself,He notified the local police department to file a report. Now this is how he related his experience to me of the events...Over this past summer break,He has obtained his CCP. We have had several discussions about this event and he stated that it was a moment of terror and totally scared the crap out of him. His perception of the Blacksburg police was that, they were pleased that they had minimal paper work to write up and not a body count. He shares that attitude as well...He has pulled the trigger on hand guns,rifles and shot sheet since he was 13 years of age. He can hit the target,yet the crap moment is a different world unto itself...He discussed this event with local police officers and lawyers that are members of our gun club to better understand his legal aspects of this past event. His present opinion is that the Walther has the needed accuracy and the Viridian C5L could provide a low light advantage. I have stressed and He also understands that no electronic/laser system can not be relied on 100%...
  7. Three weeks ago, I purchased a Viridian C5L to mount on to a Walther PK380. This past summer while home from collage my son obtained his concealed carry permit and wanted the Walther for his carry weapon.It was fairly easy to zero,using the sights to bring the laser into a "guess-ta-ma-tion", then started to fire three shot groups to fine tune the green dot and point of impact. Before he had fired two mags at 25 feet resting on sand bags ,he had a slightly smaller than quarter size groups. Before he had fired 30 rounds,the laser would shut itself off each time the Walther was fired. Returned the Laser to Viridian,where they stated that the circuit board was replaced and just received it back from them yesterday.Have not had a chance to re-zero and test this laser as of this posting.Just wondering what if anyone has experance with any of the Viridian brand of lasers.Will report how things go after it see's some range time...Thank you for any replies..Joe A. < aircavvietnam@yahoo.com >
  8. Lee, Oh I have a good story to tell about my Neos with the Blue grips..Right after these came on the market I had a craving for one and it was close to me Birthday...Well my lovin Wife,,,made the mistake of asking what I might have for my Birthday wish list ?.....So I told her about the Neos...As most Wife's will do if you have more then one gun,,Give you that what the heck do you need another ""LOOK"" and stated "you got more guns then John Wayne and only two hands..."Like you need one more gun",,,And walked off out of sight...Well I did not push the matter and a couple of days passed on by,,,Early one Saturday morning my Wife and I were still laying in the bed watching the TV,,and my son came into the room...She asked him to open the Gun Safe and he did,,I thought that maybe she needed a new pack of checks to pay some bills or what ever,,,When He had the Safe open,,she told him to count the guns in there...I rolled my eyes toward her as my son was counting,,somewhere past 12 and looking on a different shelf to continue the count,,,Out of her mouth came ,,"I told you that you had more guns then John Wayne,so tell me more about that gun you think you need"... "It nothing really special" I said ,,it is just kind of cool looking and not that expensive compared to some that we have...Her reply was "How EXPENSIVE ! ?"...Trying not to start any thing that would get the day off on the wrong foot,,,I went toward the kitchen to fry an egg...Well My Birthday arrived..I was sitting at the Kitchen table earlier that morning and my son brought in a wrapped box that had a familiar shape...I opened it and there was a long Barrel Neos with blue Grips..My wife asked if this was the one I wanted ?... I said,,Yes how did you know ?...oH,,I just asked Tom,,,She knew that Tom was my close Friend,,fellow gun club member and a FFL dealer too...If anybody had the inside info,,he would know...She had been scheming,,,in her lovin way...She asked again,,,are you sure this is the right one,,,I know that you like the color blue she said..I am not be disappointed in any way I said... and gave her a hug and a kiss...She then said,,Well I'm glad too..With a grin on her face,,,she stated"I know that you will not need for any more guns in the near future,,will you ? because if you do ,,,you head will look just like the one you holding,,,,Black and Blue". I kept my mouth shut.... Lee, that my Neos story..Yes, it is a 22 plinker,,fairly accurate and I have not had a major problem with it...and I do like it...
  9. I have had my 650 for many moons,,,early 80's,,Now..I do not think that the color has changed over time....Yellow "pick up" tips are for Small Primers and on the discharge end there is a transparent blue with snap pin installed..Large Primer Tubes have a Green Tip with a clear transparent Discharge tip...My old tubes still work fine,,,The only primer that ever gets stuck would be right at the pickup tip end....
  10. Dillon,,at one time and may still do,,offer a combo pack of Primer Tubes that consisted of two large and two small tubes... with the color of the tips being the easy identifier as to which tube was used for what Primer being loaded.....
  11. Joe A.

    Optics

    Greeting from Virginia, My name is Joseph Andrews and I am a home hobby machinist…Several years ago, I hade the need to install a Red Dot Sight on a co-workers hand gun,A Ruger 22/45 The reason he wanted to try a dot sight was that his vision required him to use Tri-focal Lens and the use of “Iron Sight” are getting difficult. As you well know, the Ruger MkII and III series is a very popular weapon. I purchased a mount from Weigand and install a cheep dot sight for him to assess the pros or con of using this style of sight. I have been collecting Ruger MkII series weapons and have several with scopes installed with Weigand mounts also. After I had his weapon ready to take to range to sight in the Red Dot, I had an idea to make a Arbor that would easily allow an owner to rapidly bore sight any of the Ruger Mk series when installing optical scope.How it done,,,,I have owned one of the AimShot .223 Bore Sight unit’s for a long time. With this Laser readily available, it did not take a lot of deep thought to design an adaptor or arbor that allowed my .223 Laser sight fit into the Receiver of a Ruger MkII Pistol. A local Gun Smith and fellow gun club member allow me to use his .223 chamber reamer. With the Bolt removed from the Receiver, I machined a piece of 6061 Aluminum round stock down to a tight fit tolerance for the Receiver, I formed a raised shoulder to act as a stop at the end of the Receiver and Knurled that end for ease of grip. Positioned my Tailstock and went about center drilling the Adaptor to the point were I could utilize the .223 Chamber Reamer. With the reaming completed, I used a parting blade to separate the Adaptor from the remaining stock from the 5C Collet. Test fit time time.....I placed the Adaptor into the Receiver of the MkII. The fit was not excessively tight. If I, was to compare the tolerance of the adaptor to the Bolt, the Bolt would be considered loose. Being a true hobby machinist, this fit was better then my expectations. Turned on the Laser and placed it into the Adaptor. I had a red laser beam passing through the Barrel, with no visible deformation of the red dot as it reflected off the wall of my shop area. Red Dot Scope zero time. “ball park”... I turned the Red Dot Scope on and made adjustments to the scope, to where the red Laser Beam and the dot of the Scope appeared to intersect. This ball park adjustment was the best I could do until I could get to the Range and fire live rounds through the Ruger MkII.... At the Range. I placed a large diameter Shot N See Target at 10 feet from the shooting bench with a couple of sand bags on the bench, I adjusted the Red Dot Sight for the smallest visible dot that could be seen with the abundant Sun light. I fired three rounds to get an average. I was a wee-bit off with the first rounds fired. The holes were to right of the X Ring. With an imaginary cross placed on the Shoot N See Target. I had three holes that could be covered with a Dime in the 9 ring with almost perfect horizontal ailment. Done good for “Ball Park” ailment. Moved the Shoot N See Target out to 25 Feet and fired three more rounds to get a second comparison. The Bullet Hole pattern was a slightly larger diameter in the outer edge of the 9 into the 8 ring and a slight drop below horizontal. With a new Shoot N See Target, I adjusted the Red Dot Scope to get the desired 10 Ring impact. Granted this is just a machining fit of madness that worked well for a quick set up of a Red Dot Sight.
  12. Greeting from Virginia, My name is Joseph Andrews and I am a home hobby machinist…Several years ago, I hade the need to install a Red Dot Sight on a co-workers hand gun. The reason he wanted to try a dot sight was that his vision required him to use Tri-focal Lens and the use of “Iron Sight” are getting difficult. As you well know, the Ruger MkII and III series is a very popular weapon. I purchased a mount from Weigard and install a cheep dot sight for him to assess the pros or con of using this style of sight. I have been collecting Ruger MkII series weapons and have several with scopes installed with Weigard mounts also. After I had his weapon ready to take to range to sight in the Red Dot, I had an idea to make a Arbor that would easily allow an owner to rapidly bore sight any of the Ruger Mk series when installing an optical scope. How it was done I have owned one of your .223 Bore Sight unit’s for a long time. With this Laser readily available, it did not take a lot of deep thought to design an adaptor or arbor that allowed my .223 Laser sight fit into the Receiver of a Ruger MkII Pistol. A local Gun Smith and fellow gun club member allow me to use his .223 chamber reamer. With the Bolt removed from the Receiver, I machined a piece of 6061 Aluminum round stock down to a tight fit tolerance for the Receiver, I formed a raised shoulder to act as a stop at the end of the Receiver and Knurled that end for ease of grip. Positioned my Tailstock and went about center drilling the Adaptor to the point were I could utilize the .223 Chamber Reamer. With the reaming completed, I used a parting blade to separate the Adaptor from the remaining stock from the 5C Collet Chuck. Test fit time. I placed the Adaptor into the Receiver of the MkII. The fit was not excessively tight. If I, was to compare the tolerance of the adaptor to the Bolt, the Bolt would be considered loose. Being a true hobby machinist, this fit was better then my expectations. Turned on the Laser and placed it into the Adaptor. I had a red laser beam passing through the Barrel, with no visible deformation of the red dot as it reflected off the wall of my shop area. Red Dot Scope zero time. “ball park” I turned the Red Dot Scope on and made adjustments to the scope, to where the red Laser Beam and the dot of the Scope appeared to intersect. This ball park adjustment was the best I could do until I could get to the Range and fire live rounds through the Ruger Mk II. At the Range,,, I Placed a large diameter Shot N See Target at 10 feet from the shooting bench with a couple of sand bags on the bench, I adjusted the Red Dot Sight for the smallest visible dot that could be seen with the abundant Sun light. I fired three rounds to get an average. I was a wee-bit off with the first rounds fired. The holes were to right of the X Ring. With an imaginary cross placed on the Shoot N See Target. I had three holes that could be covered with a Dime in the 9 ring with almost perfect horizontal ailment. Done good for “Ball Park” ailment. Moved the Shoot N See Target out to 25 Feet and fired three more rounds to get a second comparison. The Bullet Hole pattern was a slightly larger diameter in the outer edge of the 9 into the 8 ring and a slight drop below horizontal. With a new Shoot N See Target, I adjusted the Red Dot Scope to get the desired 10 Ring impact. Just some machining madness that "turned out" to be a clearly in the sights....JoeAndrews
  13. Greeting to all from Virginia...I have been reloading since the mid 70's and a loyal Dillon products user since day one.I have been interested in the Stainless Steel Media almost a years now. Read every posting from different sites and did some checking for available equipment. Shy of a concrete mixer,the majority of the drums only allow small quantity's of brass. Being a home hobby machinist,with the occasional fit of madness,I decided to made a drum with the capability of 500 plus 5.56 cases. For general info about the drum,it is a piece of utility PVC water supply pipe that has a internal diameter of 8 inch's with a length of 12 inches. I have been working up a photo collection that I will post to my favorite hobby machinist chat site once this monster has life. I have on hand a Dayton reduction gear drive motor that has a 1/4 HP an output rate of 5.6 R.P.M.'S. My logic is to have the brass rolled and tumbled by internal baffles inside the drum. Now I am not sure if the R.P.M rate will be slow and extend the run time needed to accomplish a desired cleaning. I can make an external gear combination to get whatever final drum rate. So my question to anyone that has a working liquid system,what is your approximate drum rotation rate. Thank you to all that may reply...My best wishes to all from Virginia.JoeA
  14. My loading manual does not list an data for clays, Have 231 Unique and Bulleye powder on hand for this loading session...
  15. I realize I did not give a lot of info as to what I needed to start off with in previous posting. Will be loading a 230 Gr. Winchester FMJ bullet. Not going for major power factor, just an average plinking purpose at the range with my son...Yet still wondering why the differance in charge rates over time.
  16. My Speer reloading manual Vol 13 states that for a 45 ACP using Winchester 231 minimum charge is 5.6 and max is 6.2 grains. Checking on line at Winchester site for loading data,I have a differant set of charges..Starting minium is 4.2 and max is 5.3...Now, Has the manufacturer increased the strength of the powder or being conservitive? Should I rely on the online info.
  17. I have no knowledge of this brand of chuck "Cusman" where as I can state that a Phase II Four Jaw Chuck will do whatever you desire.Sorry I did not do a price comparison.. A Grizzly very well be a Phase II with a different name...
  18. msgott, I took the time to read all the other posting that have been sent I last check in-so I'll add a few things I feel have some worth and shut up ...I agree that indexable insert is the way you should go..HSS has it's place with various metals..Ridgity and feedrate plays more toward final finish..yet with your stating.."Threading will be done on stainless and CM barrels, aluminum, stainless, and possibly titanium tubing" leads me to believe you may have a Form 1 project somewhere between your ears...TPMM(TT) Carbide Inserts with the proper radius will produce the threads you may desire yet internal threads will require a dedicated insert holder, your machinist friends will guide you down that path..To be honest with you,back when I first got my machine, I started out with a not much more then a "Brain Fart" between my ears..A four jaw chuck is a need item..You can more precisely center an item then with a three jaw chuck..A four jaw chuck can be used with thin wall tubing but I would also machine an insert that fits into the tubing to prevent any deformation..A six jaw chuck is what a "true machinist" would recommend when the wall thickness is under.125 without an insert...5C Collets work extremly well for tubing up to 1 1/8 diameter...Your wallet will be your guide as time goes by.....A South Bend Lathe spindel is threaded and having dedacated 4 jaw and 5C Collet Chuck will greatly decress your setup time... If anything I have posted causes anyone to think I am F.O.S. then so be it. A home hobby machinist has a learning curve and I hope to continue to be in that curve till the day someone finds me dead with my head in the chip pan...
  19. mscott, Nice looking South Bend Lathe...I took note of the quick change tool post. It appears to be a AXA series but I was unable to tell if it is wedge or piston type,I have one,that is a wedge style... You stated that you do not plan to go into business so you do not feel the need for hi end tooling..My reply to this is a yes and no.I learned very shortly after I had my machine,that the machine was just the down payment..The tooling is what allows you to make chips along with proper setup and rigidity.You did not state what machining experience you have had before you acquired this machine,and your posting leads me to believe you are in the same shoes as I was many moons ago... I do not intend to start a argument with others that will see my posting so take this with a grain of salt and consider these statements accordingly...I will list an ENCO part # to some of the items I refer to,so that you can look on line and see what I am referring to..Also taking into consideration that you do have a AXA series Tool Post..Brazed Carbide cutters-ENCO#TM383-4500 are cheep and do well for roughing and producing a good finish to soft medals like aluminum,brass and mild steel..A fare bang for the Buck$..The catch to these cutters is the cutting radius and the grade of Carbide or the true quality of the Carbide..Making your own High Speed Steel Cutters from blanks takes some developed skill and a dedicated grinder..and yes there will come a time when an odd shaped cutter has it's place for what you desire to produce...leave that to your imagionation...It is my humble opinion that an Indexable Carbide Turning Tollholder Set-ENCO#TM250-1401 would give you a wider range of turning options with your quick change tool holders...This part# does not include Inserts,they must be purchessed seperately,yet if you look on the web you will find the five Tollholders with inserts included...Basicly it will cost roughly the same...On a different note you mentioned boring bars..There are diameter and depth restrictions with most available boring bars on the market. This posting could go on much longer than is practical so a P.M. or video chat thru Yahoo Messenger maybe a better way to cover other bases should you wish to...E-mail<aircavvietnam@yahoo.com> to set up time and will be on line must of this afternoon in the Man Cave where the War Department tends to leave me alone...JoeA.
  20. Adam, I would like to state that your work is impressive. I too am a home hobby machinist. As with so many machining operations there is a need for a specific jig to hold the stock while the cutting is being done. For me the machining operations you have shown are standard and straight forward.. Making of the jig and how you utilize it in conjunction with a rotary table shows your machinist skills in it's finest light...You deffently done good!...JoeA.
  21. The profile cut is similar to what can be done with a Thread Mill Cutter-ENCO part#619-1390. Also very similar to a Double Angle Cutter seen on the same page listing..A Woodruff Keyseat Cutter does a similar machining cut but the sides are at a right angle..Pitch angle would have to be determined before ordering the cutter..JoeA.
  22. Gentlemen, First off,I wish to thank you for your replies...The loose fit of the offending slot is not excessive yet to anyone of you in my position would not consider it proper. In my posting,I refereed to these slots as dovetails.If look at,how a front sight is installed on a barrel being a true dovetail for discussion sake..Where as these slots on the under side of the barrel are slightly oval and having the same interlocking effect as a dovetail. The magazine ring is placed into the slot and rotated into position.This design prevents the ring from moving to the outer edge of the slot once the ring is in position for the magazine tube to be installed. This interconnecting design is Ingenious in how it locks the magazine ring to barrel. Having a slightly undersized dovetailed section on the base of the ring is giving me a loose fit..The suggested idea of installing a blind set screw pocket in the magazine ring base has it's merit. The thickness of base where this set screw would have to be placed measures .088. Do-able yes,yet compared to silver soldering in effort involved. I fore-see simpler is better approach attitude having it's effect on me. GunCat,I had went to Brownell's site looking at their Silver solder listings and had seen what bluing agents they had too offer..Dave,thanks for the info about the Burchwood Casey Product.Should all else fail to hide the slight silver line between the barrel and ring this gives me an other option...Many thanks for your replies and my best wishes to you from Virginia...Joe Andrews<aircavvietnam@yahoo.com>
  23. I am attempting to restore a Winchester mod. 1906. It is conceivable that at one time this rifle saw it's better days being used as a gallery gun with a traveling circus. Basically the rifle needed a new barrel. Fitting the new octagonal barrel went as expected with minimal lathe work required to align barrel with the receiver.The problem I have is with what is refereed to as a magazine ring. The barrel came with two dovetails cut into the lower side of the barrel. There two rings,that are fitted into the dovetail slots and the magazine is mounted to the barrel by these rings. My situation is this, one of the rings has a loose fit with the dovetail and I am considering silver soldering the ring to the barrel. In Brownell's catalog there are several listing of silver solder. Anyone who has experience using silver solder I request your advise...one of the listing was for a Premixed Syringe-flux and silver solder paste. Will this product accept bluing?..Do you have an other recommendation?..Thank you for your replies...Joe Andrews
  24. The folks at Kimber would probably like to find a fix for you rather than have you as a dishearten customer. If you call tech support and give them the "rest of the story" before you go to grinding of the ejector catch -would be to your advantage - if you alter it you'll pay for a replacement - If the ejector isn't right than at least give Kimber a chance to correct it - odds are they intend to sell more conversions and good customer service aids in sells My Beretta was picky as to what it will eat and spit out when brand new but weak rounds are still weak rounds when you're speaking of 22's . . wish you luck and give em a try can't hurt other than some time and you need to be able to eject if needed!!! Joe A.
×
×
  • Create New...