Underwhere
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Posts posted by Underwhere
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I have small hands. I use the scales 2.0 grips, an extreme flat trigger in single action only and have no issues with reach anymore.
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I have both. I had the Henning in there but didn't like it. I had some issues short stroking it. I put in flat extreme trigger and it's fine now. (or I'm fine now)
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I'm a DC electrician.
What's the easiest way to demagnetize this thing (without a hammer)? -
You can de magnetize it easily if you're worried about it.
I'll grab my BFH and take care of it. -
I ordered one to try out.
The factory isn't magnetic but the patriot defense one definitely is.
With a steel slide (it is attracted to the metal) I'm wondering if this is a potential issue.
With 3 weeks of polishing every damn part on my limpro it seems like a part being attracted to the metal surrounding it would be a contradiction.
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12 hours ago, IronArcher said:
1) extra strength extractor spring
2) where is your right thumb when shooting? You mentioned that it was UNDER the safety correct? Getting it out from under the safety should give your support hand more room to move up.
3) Trigger drills:
Pull trigger to drop hammer.
Keep trigger back and cycle the slide
Set timer to go off in 2-4 seconds
Grip and aim
At the beep, as fast as you can reset the trigger, pull and drop the hammer.... don't let the sight move.
Repeat x10,000
Ok I'll look into the extra strength spring. Interesting that it's all of a sudden occurring now but I guess the extra strength spring couldn't hurt.
My right thumb sits naturally on top of the safety. My support hand just happen to naturally hit the mag release.
And yes...noted on the trigger drill. It's just a problem I've never had before.
7 hours ago, johnbu said:Were there 2 UNFIRED rounds attempting to fill the same hole ?
Or
Was a fired case remaining in the chamber stopping one unfired round from being inserted?
The first situation "fix" is to polish the breech face, extractor hook. The CHAMFER the bottom edge of the breech face by 0.050" or so and mirror polish the rib that goes from the breech back.
The second situation needs the extractor tuned if it isn't holding tight. And a stronger extractor spring. the extractor hook could also be damaged. Or a few other oddball things.
There was a spent case in the chamber with a fresh round jamming up underneath it.
I'll check the extractor hook and order a stronger spring.
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The saga continues: I went back to do some more testing. Solved a problem and 3 more came to light.
To recap here is what's currently in the gun:
Henning single action trigger with the rearmost trigger for shortest reach
Stock plunger spring
Reduced sear spring
Factory one piece long sear
Titan Hammer
14 pound hammer spring
Extended firing pin block
Extended left sided safety
10 pound recoil spring.
Problems last time:
The trigger would fail to reset. Even after I let go of it it would stay there. I had to push the trigger forward with my finger to reset it.
Changes:
Here is what I changed from the last time I shot: (Removed BOLO, put pre-travel screw back into the trigger, put the 10# recoil spring into the gun, loaded up a new cartridge with an OAL of 1.070 which is short but is necessary to plunk test successfully in my other CZ's)
Problem Solved
I no longer had any issues with the trigger resetting. Progess
New problems -
- I had several failures to extract resulting in double feeds. Too many to be a coincidence. I probably put about 100 rounds through the gun just to test it and maybe got 5 or 6 failures to extract.
- I'm short stroking the trigger. The only other gun I've done this in is a Ruger LCR. While testing I was pushing to see how fast I could get the gun to shoot and many times I would sit there pressing trigger only to realize I hadn't let it reset. I'm wondering what's going on here. There is nothing mechanically wrong with the trigger now. I'm wondering if the trigger being so far back (I bought the trigger that sits the farthest back) has any affect on this. Is the timing of the gun off? The only way for me to be sure to cycle is if I slap the trigger which I've really never done before and don't intend on doing now.
- When I'm shooting with 2 hands, my support hand is constantly depressing the mag release and dropping the damn mag. Do they make a more shallow mag release?
Ideas welcome
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You are still running the heavier factory trigger bar (plunger) spring, aren't you?
Going light on that spring can cause exactly the issues you're having.
I'm back to the factory plunger spring and was running it when these issues occurred.
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So just another update:
I got a chance to get back to the range with my 14 pound hammer spring.
No more light strikes however it seems like the reset issues I was experiencing before (very weak and non-positive reset) is becoming worse.
My trigger fails to reset when shooting fast. I actually had to take my trigger finger and help the trigger forward to reset it a number of times.
I went home and removed the BOLO and the reset is much much more positive now. I'm now using the pre-travel screw to stop the trigger rather than count on the BOLO.
I've definitely been hunting for the perfect trigger and have wasted an extraordinary amount of money on this thing.
I've actually built 2 other guns with Cajun Gun Works parts and the triggers are far better than this and with no messing around. They work 100% as soon as the parts were put in. I wish Cajun would make parts for this gun. I'm a little disappointed with Henning on their SAO trigger as well as the Patriot Defense BOLO. This gun is definitely going to take a few more range trips for me to feel comfortable that it's functioning properly.
But after all this work, and incredible amount of polishing this is literally the smoothest gun I have ever shot by far. It's very flat shooting with 147gr over titegroup spitting it out at roughly 880fps. I have the trigger at 2.5 pounds....but would gladly trade 1 pound to make it as crisp, fast and reliable as a Cajun setup.
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Hey, I have one question regarding the safety, I'm getting a lim pro for idap/uspsa. I need to remove the right side safety, do I need to order a single side safety or is there something that can be done without buying a new one?
Thanks
I bought a new one.
I honestly forget whether you could simply remove one side. It was the first thing I did. -
Did you put in the Titan hammer yet?
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Yea. It's rocking the Titan hammer and BOLO. Extended firing pin block with factory firing pin.
I used PD's firing pin spring and a 13 pound hammer spring.
Then yesterday night I put the 14 pound spring in. Now I just need to find some day to get back to the range. -
The light plunger springs often let the hammer drop early in DA, so it's possible that you reduced how often you'll have light strikes right there.
You won't need to change blocks based on firing pin. That's a factor determined by your sear/hammer combination.
My suggestions:
Take the firing pin block out entirely. Now that's a non factor.
Take it to the range with factory plunger and 14 pound hammer springs installed.
If it runs correctly, reinstall your firing pin block. If light strikes come back you've diagnosed it.
If it still doesn't run 100% order a heavy firing pin, or switch to a heavier hammer spring. Either the EGD Light, Wolff 14, or wait for PD to release their 15.5
Makes sense. Thanks for your suggestions.
I did "fit" the Fpb to make sure the firing pin wasn't dragging.
Also it was a bit strange but I only noticed light strikes in the first 100 or 200 rounds. So maybe it's a friction thing somewhere that worked itself out. -
So I put about 300 to 400 rounds through the gun today. Had quite a number of light strikes. So I put the 14 pound hammer spring in and removed the 13.
I'm running a factory firing pin. Is the extended one necessary? Do I need to buy a new firing pin block if I get the extended firing pin?
Also put the stock trigger plunger spring back in. The reset could barely be felt without it.
Trigger pull is 2.5 pounds at the moment. -
And yours is a limited Pro correct?
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Yup. -
I have no Titan.
Just want to be sure I am not buying a part I already have.
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The extended is definitely longer. I literally just fit mine last night. -
Ok, I have heard conflicting information.
Can anyone please measure a known extended firing pin block, and a "normal" firing pin block (or whichever you have).
I have a Lim Pro, and heard to has the standard, and also heard to has the extended.
With a BOLO, mine doesn't stop the firing pin.... at all.
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I put in a BOLO and a Titan hammer. My factory fpb stopped working. I bought the extended and fit it. Now it works.
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Don't tell your IDPA guys that you reshaped your magwell.
You will be ostrascized from the Tactical Plumber community. Been there, done that, for similar tweaks.
They probably won't check the rule book before 'knowing' it's illegal.
The newest rulebook says magwell modification is legal.(W) I don't think it was before.
I'm hoping I didn't read it incorrectly...else I'd have to buy another Tanfo.
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Here is my lim pro with scales 2.0
Henning trigger and Titan hammer and BOLO. Henning guide rod and a Dawson front sight.
I beveled the magwell so there is some material removed. May be a reason why I'm 1/2 ounce under weight. (maybe not)
42.47 ounces with the factory mag.
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This is wisdom. I'm repeating myself here, but all the effort I've put in chasing a light trigger hasn't proven as fruitful as I had hoped. Despite the array of support from PD, Henning, etc., you'll always max out potential with power tools. At some point, the tool that really needs training is the trigger finger.
Agreed.
I'm not even someone who cares about having the best trigger in the world. Hell I like my Glock 34 trigger. I'm just caught up in the chase.
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52 minutes ago, johnbu said:
The titan moves weight up so it hits harder. it also moved back further in sa so it hits harder. The back further is what messes up the safety timing
.The factory firing pin is fine. The PD optimized is better. But not required.
The old fpb spring is used. But a spare tiny spring is cheap insurance!
And it sounds frustrating about the screws.
Got it. Another order to go.
Then I need to find time to put some rounds through it.
Thanks for all the help. I feel like I'm almost there (though I felt like that before BOLO and Titan and Flat trigger and new sear)
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Yes, the Titan means you need the extended fpb.
The geometry that messes up the safety relationship also gives less motion for the fpb.
OK thanks for the confirmation.
Can I ask a few questions before I place yet another order
1. Does the Titan do anything except have slightly different hooks for less travel? Does it improve ignition? I am sort of at the point of no return because I modified the sear for the safety... But I'm considering the stock hammer and removing the BOLO.
2. Do I need a new firing pin with the extended block?
3. Do I need a new spring with the extended block?
I also want to mention that if you buy a Tanfoglio flat trigger it doesn't come with the set screws. That's really annoying.
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So I got my flat trigger and new one piece sear. I threw them in. It made no difference whatsoever... So yea that was a waste of $110
So I tossed the hemming trigger back in with the BOLO and Titan hammer.
I fit the safety leg of the sear.
I am under 2.5 pounds, sometimes almost at the 2 pound mark depending on where I catch the trigger.
Here is the problem. I double checked my firing pin to ensure that it was blocked by the FPB. It no longer works. My guess is that the Titan or BOLO somehow did that so I'll need to order an extended FPB?
I have the factory firing pin. -
So I was thinking about this at work today.
If I have my stock trigger and rack my gun (putting it into SA) there is a bunch of takeup in the trigger. (Let's call this Point A)
If I press the trigger and work through that takeup, the trigger actually stays there (Let's call this Point B). It doesn't move back. Also if I break the shot and rack the slide and ride the trigger to reset, it stays at Point B.Once the trigger moves to Point B it never goes back to Point A.
To me that's some sort of spring or friction issue preventing the trigger from getting to Point B in the first place?Or am I just going nuts?
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5 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:
Does your trigger stop moving forward the movement it resets? With Tanfos the ability to feel/hear the click is irrelevant to shooting them in USPSA in my experience.
The trigger stops. That's where it resets. You come out past there and pull again.
Shoot it like you will in a match (bill drills, fast pairs, etc) and paying attention to the way you don't use the click.
I went through this with the M&P when switching from the "super click" Glock reset. A local GM convinced me the lack of click wouldn't be a problem with a few short practice drills.
We don't actually use it. But everyone on the interent tells you it's important, so surely it must be.
I compete with Glocks (used to) so I'm very used to the reset. Typically I pay attention to reset it when shooting strong or weak hand only...but I can learn not to.
Thanks for all your help.
I'm waiting for the Tanfo trigger and new sear to arrive. I'll toss both in and see whether there is any affect. I believe I will not have a need to use both set screws in the SAO trigger if the BOLO is taking care of the reset for me.
How is this Limited Pro setup?
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
Posted
Everything seems to be fine now. Extra power extractor spring, PD extended firing pin, new fit extended FPB, an xtreme SAO trigger, and a standard magazine catch instead of th extended limpro catch.
Now it seems to be running smooth with no short stroking.