NoSteel

Agreed…. Wow, things are outa hand at that club. I think this is a bad example on what can happen when the rules get lax. Looks like it’s time to determine if stage designs need some work, RO’s need to buckle down, safety rule orientation for participants or other actions before someone is injured..

I’ve shot several Revo matches as well as some steel challenge Revo Optics after I spent a few years watching 2 club members have Revo fun at our matches. Stage planning, huge!! Another issue, if you go back to semi auto and run a Revo 1 time a season it’s like starting over, but still allot of fun. If there was a Revo Optic option other than Open, I’d run it all the time!!

Reviewing the passed amendment and clarification you would not be able to bring in any high cap mag back into the state that you didn’t posses prior.

As noted, any competent machine shop should be able to complete the work. Yes, with set up time and work involved it would probably be close to cost of slide. Good work isn’t cheap.. Also, be sure they know what you asking for. Your post indicates you want to take off .20” but I would assume you want .020”?

Precision Delta showing both their old profile and new profile 9MM In stock FMJ, JHP..

Also For hamburger, fuel, clothes, toilet paper, etc.? I think the days of $25 primers are gone forever….

DuPont Multi use Teflon. Goes on wet the dries with no residue / build up. Will not attract dirt..

Never ran the 165gr but the pics on their website do show a slightly different profile on the 165gr compared to 180gr with a ridge at the end of the taper. Is this the case or just an older design picture? Have you tried making up some dummy rounds, coat up with a sharpie and cycle them thru? This will give you some contact marks you can inspect and compare good round to bad which may guide you on feed-lip adjustments. Or, just run the 180gr and sell the 165gr!

May want to check out answers to this one…. You guys use the same gunsmith?

Will be interested to see where you end up for correct OAL. When I was setting up my Czechmate 1.135 with a MG 125gr JHP was about my limit. I had my chamber finish reamed to go out to 1.165” which made a big difference when working up a load. At that point you have to look at the OAL limits on your magazine and making sure you have some room there also.

You didn’t come back to this thread right off so some may not have thought you were serious. Now that you are, your getting some good responses. As you noted, you need to get some insight from someone you know who reloads with a consideration towards 9mm major. That’s going to start with knowing exactly what OAL you can run in your chamber WITH the bullet you plan to use!! In the end, it’s still reloading but you have to pay attention to the details. Blowing up a gun isn’t fun nor cheap and it also isn’t real comfortable for your RO!! It’s more likely you would struggle with function issues (as you already found out) unless your way off base but that will just add to your match frustrations. Get some help, develop / test at a range and when you get it where you want it you’ll find a match will be much more enjoyable. Do some searches in the reloading section and you will find allot of useful information also. Not sure what State(s) you shoot in but I’m sure you’ll find plenty of people at your matches that can help….

I would say this is a match.

In some cases you may find your barrel may slug larger than .355”. The larger diameter bullet allows you to account for that. As an example my S&W 929 slugged @ .3565” so I use a .358” dia bullet….

You need to get on the practice range where you have some control of your ammo so you can pull a “dud” and see what is going on with the primer, otherwise we’re guessing…. This should have been done before going to your match otherwise as you’ve found karma gets you. Running up major loads, I hope you are chrono’ing / checking your loads for length & setback to avoid a boom!! As noted, unless the chamber has been reamed that CZ requires a shorter load.. Plunk Test!!

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Not a good time to buy factory ammo with current supplies/prices. Pick your poison…..

I would say VZ’s are slightly thicker than standard. I use Operator II on 2 handguns and love the ultra grippy texture which more than makes up for the extra thickness need (I have long hands and like fat grips also).

If CO had stayed a 10rnd division as originally conceived I doubt it’s popularity would be where it is today, not to mention the multiple equipment rule tweaks made over those 5 years.

If you read the thread you’ll see it was sent back and it was replaced by C-more last June….

I run @ 6.8gr AC, 1.16” OAL W/ PD 124gr HP @ 178- 181PF thru my open gun (3port comp, 2 popple barrel). While a little hot it runs enough gas to keep the dot where I like and is very accurate. Actually feels better than @ < 170pf.

You are correct. As I do wear a progressive script daily the only change with my shooting glasses is the position of my head. Not really needed with a dot but very helpful with open sights for me. As you indicated, having someone who is willing to work with you is a huge advantage. I brought an Airsoft 2011 in with me and we worked with that. It really is an individual thing. Prior to this I tried script Rudy inserts, stick on RX corrections strong eye only and also a set with bifocals at the top. Switching to what I have now works best for me..

I use one of these. Never an issue..

I had my glasses made with my normal progressive script but my optometrist moved it higher in the lens so I can still keep my head down rather than have to look thru the bottom of my glasses (head up) with my normal glasses. Pretty easy to get used to with open sights and when using a dot not even a second thought. You just have to get used to shifting your head when using the IPAD..

Looks like you have a parts gun there. It broke there for a reason, brunt of the recoil…. if that let’s go your face eats the parts…. Buy new and swap whatever add on / worked parts you have…

I just used an 11deg crowning reamer, .256 bushing, with a tap handle. Less then $100…. To get rid of the bolt hole drilled about 1 mm deep same diameter as stainless cap screw head for cap, lock tire it in and cut off/filed smooth.