ihocky2

Glock mags are the only way to go. I built one with a DDLES lower. The lower is great, DDLES as a business is not so great. If you can find them on the shelf at a dealer, then I would order one. Just don't order direct from DDLES. For the bolt catch, go with an H3 buffer to slow down the bolt. Some even still stick a spacer or stack of quarters in the buffer tube to slow it down even further. The 9mm will never shoot as flat because of it being blow back, but is WAY fun to shoot.

For tier 1 matches, everyone I have been to basically runs by "If you don't know about it, it's legal". Not to say that the MD's and SO's play ostrich with their head in the sand, but certain items you just don't know what is going on. I think this is more what the OP was asking about. Tier 1 does not have chrono or equipment check, so yes, unless it is grossly obvious, let them use under PF ammo. There are no scales at Tier 1 matches, so let them use an over weight gun. How do you know it is over weight without a scale, unless they bubble gummed a chunk of lead to the dust cover. Holsters and ammo carriers are not checked, if the SO notices illegal equipment or positioning it is up to them to address it. But if no one notices it, how do you penalize it? It's not that anyone is blatantly ignoring rules, but the procedures that are used at higher tier matches just are not applied at Tier 1 matches. The rules need to be followed as best as possible. ALL safety rules MUST be followed. If a target is placed at 11 yards with a head shot required, should that stage be thrown out? No, who is actually measuring that tightly at a Tier 1? Just count yourself lucky people showed up early to help set up. Enforce the rules that are being broken, but don't go looking for people breaking the rules. In a hockey game a player slashes another player in the head behind the play and the referee does not see it. Does that make it legal? No, certainly not. Is a penalty called? No, because no one saw what happened. You can only deal with issue and problems that you are aware of.

Reviews I saw on the GLS were that the release button was not as intuitive and the thumb releases. Most had to make a point to press it and press it hard enough. Kind of like a Serpa holster, but the GLS at least keeps your finger away from the trigger during the draw. BrianATL; on that 6378 ALS paddle you linked to, does it seem like you could switch the paddle to a Tek-Lok easily, or at least with an adapter?

I am picking up my M&P 9L in a day or two and am trying to decide on a holster to use for 3-gun. Safariland only lists the GLS for the 9L, which I have read less than favorable opinions of. The 5.11 Thumbdrive looks nice because it will sit about the same as my Blade-Tech holsters for all of my other guns and seems like a good retention system. The 5.11 is only listed for the M&P Pro 5" though, has anyone used a 9L in the Thumbdrive? Are there any holsters I am missing. I don't not want to go into the Blade-Tech WRS with the level II retention.

I have a Burris Fastfire III and JPoint mount on the way. I'll let you know how I like it once it is setup. I went with the Fastfire because I always had problems finding the dot with a CMore sitting so high. Everything else I shoot is irons, so I wanted the lowest dot I could get. I've read about problems with the RTS2, and I don't like the auto brightness on the Deltapoint

I haven't opened the loading port on my SX2 a lot yet, but I can hit load 2's all day with ease. I did nothing to the fore end. I am not winning any trophies with my skills, so an unshaved fore end isn't holding me back. I added a Nordic mag extension, Nordic charging handle, and Nordic mag release button. Other than that it is bone stock and runs great. The Winchester got left behind, but comparing mine against other guys M2's and a few of the other popular ones, I think the SX2 shoots softer. I was comparing to decide if I was ready to trade it in and just like the SX2 better. The SX2 I think just never had the marketing behind it..

I watched a friend of mine KB his 40 XDM a few years ago. The gun saw a box or two of factory rounds and then all reloads. I know he was running Rainier plated, but not sure of the weight or charge. Frame, slide, and barrel were fine, but bent the extractor. Springfield checked over the gun and replaced the extractor at his cost. The case did not blow out like that one did, it looked like the base was simply ripped off. Not sure if it was out of battery, over charged, or bullet setback. At that time he was using a Dillon 650, but still did not have the best reloading procedure and would get about 1 squib out of every 100-200 rounds, so an over charge is possible. I do know it was a PMC piece of brass the KB'd on him and I have found that to be a common thread across other people. Not saying they are the only one that does it, but it does seem more common.

I am working on building a 3-gun rifle and could use some advice on hammer/trigger pins and take-down/pivot pins. Is there really a difference between any companies making them? I thought about the KNS anti-roll pins but saw that they can cause early wear on the fire control group and probably aren't really needed anyway. More of a nice to have, but not needed. Is there a difference between say JP, Spikes, DPMS, or Battle Arms fire control pins? For the take-down and pivot pins I am looking at Battle Arms Development for the larger head that do not seem to stick out as bad as some others. Not that standard pins are hard to work with, but easier is easier. Or am I just as good going with a standard set of DPMS and saving the money?

I thought it was a good match, but definite issue with it again. Stage 3 looked awesome but was dropped because it would have created a huge backup. Stage 2 allowed for a moving reload on a technicality. Between two rocks that were spaced probably 15 feet apart was all considered P2, so you shot from 1 rock and then moved to the other while reloading, but were always at P2. P2 was just 15 feet long. Though it was still advancing in the stage. Some questioned if Stage 14 was legal, if you shot the first two targets on the move you did not have to use cover and shot in Tac Sequence. Or you could stop and use cover and shoot in Tac Priority. I don't know the rules well enough to comment either way, I just shot my plan and had fun with it. I didn't hear as much rumblings, but I think the chrono had issues again.

I can say for certain that Ontelaunee is the USPSA and even IDPA club you want to check out. I know the MD for Ontelaunee used to help out with stages and setup for another club, but has had to step aside from that because his own match takes up so much of his time. Their monthly matches sometimes rival major matches. The director is a great guy and gets a lot of help. The club is adding 6 or 8 more bays on top of their 8 or 10 already. The club that went to 3-gun switched simply because the MD liked shooting 3-gun better and has great sponsorship, so that is what he runs. Guthsville dropped USPSA for several reasons: lack of help, MD burnout, and club politics. I don't live very far from Schuck. county and wish there was more USPSA, I shoot IDPA only because it is more prevalent. Until Ontelaunee started it back up, I had to drive 90 minutes to the closest USPSA. A lot of the MD's that were running USPSA are an aging group and just didn't have the energy anymore. Until someone younger steps in to take it over, like Ontelaunee did, the sport dies at those clubs.

I've used the Safariland and the CR Speed and like the DAA Racer much better, I went with the Racer instead of the Race Master simply because I didn't need the interchangeable inserts. When locked it is extremely secure, and still secure when unlocked. The CR Speed even when locked I could pull the gun out, and have seen them bumped out while pasting, even though locked. The Safariland was slow and not secure. I run the North Mountain holders and like them for capacity vs. space. With moon clips stacked two high though, I find times that I miss one of the low sitting clips and grab the wrong one. I would like to try a Speed-E-Rack.

This is not really dry fire in the true sense, but a drill I like to run over the winter is simply holding the rifle. Pick a spot on the wall and using proper form, take a sight picture and hold it there until you start to wobble to much too make an accurate shot. You can do this once a day or a few times a day, but it helps develop the muscle memory and strengthen the support muscles. The muscles used for most rifle shots and not subject to endurance stress often, usually short periods of work, this helps to strengthen the endurance in those muscles. Do this standing, sitting, kneeling, or any position that does not provide good support.

It is legal and with the right load can be fun. One of the guys at our club runs his 629 with either a 200ish or a 230ish grain bullet over top of TrailBoss and it is easy handling. I would suggest something like that if you are running in SSR with speed loaders since you only need a 105 PF. The tricky part is getting speed loaders that keep up with the Comp III that all of the SSR guys are running. Safariland only makes a Comp II which is not spring loaded. I don't think Jet makes anything for the 44mag family. The SL Variant speed loaders however do make a 44 mag spring loaded speed loader. One of these days I am going to take my 657 with full power loads just because I can.

Without taking the time to look at the rule book, I am pretty sure it is they cannot mandate a RWR during a scenario stage, but during a standards stage they can. I reload week hand and always carry my third reload in my vest pocket. Faster than reaching around my back and work great if there is a RWR needed. WIth round dumping I try to find a place to burn them off, but if a RWR just seems to work better then I am set for it. I tip the gun back and let the live rounds fall out into my hand, drop those in my pocket and come out with the speed loader. WIth speedloader in hand I eject the spent cases and charge the cylinder. This is slower on a flat footed reload, but with that rule gone now it works well for me on a moving reload behind cover.

Rumor had been for a while that BUG rules would be changed to get rid of the gamer guns and make it more friendly for the J-frames and sub-compacts. I will still shoot my J-frame because it is what I carry, but if I really wanted a trophy it would be the last thing I would take.

I don't know, my times with my 686 and my 625 are not that much different. Usually what I lose in my SSR reload I make up in my splits since the sights move a lot less. I think it will only be the guys right at the top of their classes that will see the benefit of the 625. Over the course of a major match I definitely notice more hand/arm fatigue after shooting ESR. SSR I can maintain a more consistent pace all day because of the easier control. 155 is softer than 165 but is still going to thump more than 105. The biggest advantage is a fumbled reload, you only have to pick up a full moonclip instead of trying to retrieve a full on yard sale.

Toolguy, how do you best remove the coating before reaming? I already have one project that needs to be hit with a finish reamer so that would help justify the cost. Plus a few people I shoot with are getting or have 929's and would probably be interested in this as well and could share the reamer.

I am running 147 gr. bullets already over 231. Since I want to use it for IDPA SSP I am limited to stainless steel for the guide rod and no mag well. These rounds make about a 130 PF. I am leaning towards the guide rod and lighter recoil spring. Can anyone recommend a good starting weight for the spring.

I am working with my wife's 4" XD 9mm to set up for IDPA and even some three gun. She has always had a little trouble being accurate with it and even when I shoot it I notice more muzzle flip than with any of my other guns. Out of my 1911 9mm the same load is a soft push, in the XD is definitely jumps more. Realistically even my 2011 .45 has less muzzle rise. I know the 1911's are metal guns with more weight so I think that is where a good portion of the problem is coming from. My thoughts are first to add grip tape, I am wondering if the factory grip is too smooth and allows the gun to slip a little in my hand making it harder to control. I am thinking about going to 1911 springs and the stainless guide rod for a little more weight. With the factory recoil spring my wife has to work to rack the slide, so I don't really want to make it any harder to rack the slide. What weight spring would most recommend to help keep the gun a little flatter?

Thanks for the link, that looks interesting. I want to contact them, but it looks like you might be able to use either a standard replacement front sight of the non-pinned front sight.

I am going to be purchasing either a 627 or 929 soon, not sure which one yet. For USPSA I will need to shoot with the stock sights, but for steel I wouldn't mind playing around in Open Revolver and a little in ICORE. The bases I know of require the rear sight to be removed to afix the mount. I would like something that I can leave a mount on the gun and still use the stock sights. Who makes a good and lightweight base that I could have the barrel drilled and tapped to mount. I would like to be able to switch between limited and open without having to re-sight in the gun. I am open to any options. THanks.

I have two quick thoughts. First, the reason IDPA wants ESR gone is all of that 45 brass that does not go home with the SO's. Okay, that is mostly sarcastic, but I don't understand the whole thought of 6 divisions only. Who cares how many their are? Let people come and shoot what they own, you know the Founding Principles. I don't think the 625 belongs in CDP. Try a tuned 1911 vs. a 625 both at 165pf. You will notice which one is the revolver, there is noticeably more recoil and in a different direction. With reloads on the move, I do think reload difference is negligible.

My preference for a holster is either the DAA Racer or the Race Master. The Race Master is definitely nicer, but for the cost savings the Racer is a very good holster with the same retention and as the Race Master. You can't go wrong with moon clip holders from North Mountain.

I like to work on weak hand and strong hand only since they almost always show up. Shooting on the move, laterally, retreat, advancing seem to be common. Practice some long shots. I like to do dry fire practice of reloads with retention. Shooting from odd positions behind cover, prone, kneeling, maybe holding a weighted object in one hand. If you get to any local matches make a point to really nail your setup positions, you want to be able to plant your feet and shoot without having to readjust if you can help it. I know some guys like to use local matches to train and challenge themselves. Maybe pick a simple stage and shoot head shots only. If you know anyone that will let you borrow a swinger or any other moving target, definitely take advantage of it. If it is at a local club, pay attention to what they are doing at matches a few months leading up to it. A lot of MD's like to use parts of their major stages in local matches to work out any bugs. You might stumble across a few things to expect.

If you don't mind ponying up a little extra I would recommend the Armadillo Concealment. Very stiff material for faster sweeping it out of the way and the wide open mesh back is nice in the summer. I am very happy with mine.