stgdz

pics of pin

Been meaning to post this for awhile but I just keep pushing the pin back in It's the pin on the right side of the ram where the linkage meets up with the ram body. The pin has an Allen head on it and knurled out side of it. Am I missing something? It starts to walk out every 500 rounds or so. I just push the pin back in but shouldn't it.be captured.on the inside?

yeah its fully charged and I can run programs and play around with it again but as soon as it turns off. Bam, need to reset it again to turn it on.

So my CED 7000 seems to no longer turn on. If I hit the reset button in back it willl turn on but wipe everthing out. Hard resetiting it does nothing though.

So I picket up some of the lizzards bedding from petsmart as it supposed to be crushed walnuts and I am running into an issue with my cases comingout of the tumbler clean, but very dusty. How can I prevent or removed the dust? I tried soaking the cases in some water and it appears to have removed some of the dust but does the water do anything to the case at all? the would of course be thoroughly dried out before gun powder hits them.

yes, I actually have bomar's on my pistol but I would rather solve the issue with the shooter than mess with the pistol.I got a chance to fire some revolvers this weekend and I noticed that I change my stance to a weaver stance with that. Also when I did this the POI shifted to the bottom right.

they confirmed that it was me shooting to the left.With dry firing it goes like this, draw and aim, align sights so that there is a little space between at the front site relative to the rear, pull the trigger to make certain that front sight doesn't waiver back and forth. This is with my 1911 on its really light trigger. When doing double action on the revolvers and pistols that I have borrowed I notice that the sight moves to the left. A HA, I thought but I go back to the 1911 and I don't get the same reaction, just a straight sight. The DA is a clue into solving this issue for me I believe.

This is something that I have never been able to cure. I shoot a 1911 and dry fire a lot, sights don't move, placed a penny on the front sight it doesn't move, have tried first shot as a surprise, looked at the wheel of truth, etc.... Nothing seems to work. On standard USPSA target at about 7 yards all the shots land in a nice little group to the left of the target (still in the Azone) in a nice little vertical string fashion(this was with 24 rounds). I just can't seem to fix it and it just frustrates the heck out of me. I am going to start shooting some 22's in both revolvers (DA) and ruger SA's but what can I do to fix this.

Not only jacketed, but jacketed with a jacketed base such as jhp (jacketed hollow point ) or CMJ's (complete metal jacket). Jacketed bullets with exposed lead bases will still smoke to some degree. Yes but isn't it the lube that is smoking with lead though?WST gives off a bigger flash correct, but less smoke?

So it seems clays is the one that every one goes with then? Currently I run unique because that is what my local pedler (john at gunstop) uses for everything handgun related. With my missouri bullets it smokes a lot, I have tried clays and there was little difference in the volume of smoke. Someone once told me solo powder is pretty good and this video shows what looks like a slight improvement over my two other powders , there is still that smoke hanging in the air.I guess the only way to avoid the smoke is to go jacketed though huh?

This is the one with the HBAR style barrel correct, if so how heavy is it? Doesn't benny cooley run one of these also? He said there wasn't many issues with his.

Got my brand new die back from RCBS(the threads ripped off when I tried to remove the stuck case). Sprayed down 50 cases with one shot and they just glided in and out of the X-die.

So I received my second stuck case... First one was a 223 on a 550 with a X-die second one is on a single stage with hornady new dimension dies I followed the advice of RCBS and lubed the bottom 2/3's and it still got stuck in the 308 die. I am starting to consider moving to the spray on lube dies but when I called up RCBS the first question they asked was wether I was using spray ons. I have not had one stuck case with one-shot lube but I haven't loaded that many, less then a thousand. When I use imperial sizing wax, stuck dies are very common. My method is to tap my finger in the wax twice and then rub it all over the 2/3's of the case. So my fingers have a good lube on them for 3-4 cases maybe five.

yes I am shooting lead bullets in 45acp but I am moving to FMJ's, When I load lead its going to be rcbs decap and crimp with Lee FCD. FMJ's are going to be rcbs decap, redding seater, and rcbs crimp.For 9mm I still have about 2000+ plated bullets left and I believe I have some glock brass and will be shooting a glock in the future so I am considering the 9mm egw udie but while I am at it I figured I would get the 45acp u-die and save on shipping. Do u-dies require lube?

So I purchased a couple competition seating dies for 9mm, 45, and 223. My current 550 setups consist of this 9mm - RCBS decap, RCBS seater+crimp(don't use the crimp though), Hornady TC crimp 45 - RCBS decap, RCBS seater+crimp(don't use the crimp though), Lee FCD 223 - RCBS X-die, lee seater, and lee FCD I figure for the 9mm and 223 all I really need to do is just replace the seaters and leave the rest alone. The question I have is in regards to the 45 and the LEE FCD. The FCD does the post process resize have seat and from what I have read its not the location to do it in. The recomendation is to get the U-die and use the redding as a seater but do you need to crimp or does the redding apply a crimp to via neck tension? If I need a crimp can I just use my RCBS die and take out the stem to use as a taper crimp die. Is there much difference between taper crimp dies?