rstimpfling

Can you give me the measurement for the height of to rail above the handguard on the TRX? I am building a DPMS .308 and I was thinking about replacing the stock DPMS forearm with the TRX. My upper has the extra tall rail on it. I want to make sure the rail heights match if possible. Nice looking rifle. Robert Semper Fi

Why the 6.5 CM over the 260 in a gas gun. I am looking at building a 260 Remington in an AR platform. Can you give me pro's and con's? Robert

Tackman11 does your Kestrel have blue tooth capability? If so are you able to link the Kestrel directly to the I Phone? I would like to know before I spend the extra money for the blue tooth capability. Robert Semper Fi

Does anyone know if the Kestrel 4500 with bluetooth will pass the information it collects directly to the Iphone and the Ballistic FTE app? I would think that would be a good reason to get the 4500 with BT. Robert

I have one that I am using on a long range precision rifle. The quality, machining and finish are among the best I have seen. Their specs are very tight. I was worried about using their lower on a DPMS upper. The fit was so tight that there was no play what so ever. I fully intend to use their product again in the future. They are easy to deal with and very knowledgeable. You can't go wrong using their lower. Robert Semper Fi

I love my Dillon 1200. I have a rather unique setup for processing my .223 brass. I use a Dillon 650 press for all of my progressive reloading. I put a FL SB sizing/decapping die in station 1. The 1200 goes in station 3. Station 4 has a neck sizing die with an expander/decapper with the decapping pin removed. This takes care of the inside chamfer. I use an RCBS .223 sizing die in staion 5 to do the outside deburring. It also allows me to spot check that my trimmer is correctly adjusted. So no additional steps. With every pull of the handle I get a fully trimmed, chamfered, and deburred case. It is good enough for bulk case prep. I have a manual trimmer I use for precision case work. The Dillon 1200 does make some noise. It does get very warm too. I created a muffler of sorts, for my vacuum, out of some old rigid duct I had laying around and some lightweight foam. It seems to do the trick. I am still trying to figure out how to cool the 1200 for extended brass processing sessions. I am in the process of modifying a primer seater for my 650 to swag the primer pockets as I process the brass. Not sure how well it will work, but it is worth a try. Robert Robert

It actually goes behind the release button that protrudes through the receiver. It provides tension and return pressure on the shell release lever. Turn the bolt release over and but the spring in the recess of the button. Robert

Thanks everyone for the information. I currently use Winchester Magnum Pistol primers, so I am good there. I am using a 10# spring. I would like to find the softest recoiling powder of those I mentioned. I also want the most gas at the comp. My current load with a 124 Grn bullet gives me about a 172 power factor. I find I need to be at about 176 to 177 with this load to work the comp the way I think it should work. At that power factor I am seeing some concerning issues with the primers. So I want to go with a lighter faster bullet to increase the gas volume at the comp. So I am still looking for a starting load for Silhouette and 3n37. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I always learn so much from the knowledgeable people here on BE. Robert

I have specific powders available and what to develop a load based on those powders. I then want to compare felt recoil and see how my comp works. I am shooting an STI in 9MM Major. I currently use 124 Grn MG JHP bullets and True Blue for the powder. I don't think I am getting full effective use from my comp. I want to develop a load using MG 115 Grn CMJ bullets. I currently have the following powders available to me and would like recommendations on a safe starting load for each powder. I appreciate that there are other powders out there, but my research shows these powders to be the most popular. Thanks in advance for your advice. Winchester AutoComp 3n37 True Blue Silhouette HS6 I also have the following but I don't believe they would provide good Major loads. Titegroup Solo 1000 Robert

I recently aquired an FN SLP shotgun. As part of my normal process i striped it completely, cleaned it thoroughly and reassembled it. Here is where the fun began. I ran into some problems getting the cotter pin to seat on the bolt hold open retaining pin. I went to my local Ace hardware to find a tool I could modify to may the removal on installation easier. I actually found a tool that will remove and install the pin with no modification. I found a Craftsman (Yes Ace hardware now sells Craftsman tools, not a plug for them but what they have works). I bought a "Hook and Pick set". In the set was pick called as complex pick. The offset in the tip is perfect to get in that little slot for installation or removal. Another quick tip is to keep your finger over the slot where the cotter pin goes for installation or removal. This saves hours of time looking for the little cotter pin. The good news if you loose it, is that Ace carries a similar sized cotter pin that will work if you lose the original. This is my experience with my local Ace Hardware. YMMV. BTW I love my new SLP. I shot it today for the first time and it is awesome. Robert

Yes I did cut down the easyloader. It is really important to cut it down. Let me drag out my camera and take some pictures. I will try to get it done before the weekend if I can. Robert

Here is what I did to my Remington 11-87. At the time I thought it was the hot ticket. That was several years ago. I agree with the other posters that the Remington is slower to load. I have just received my FN SLP and am starting the modifications to it. In case you want to proceed with your Remington, here is a picture I used to make the changes on mine. I opened the side rails with a milling machine and throated and polished the loading port with a Dremel tool. I went very slowly with the Dremel. It was worth the effort as it made the gun much smoother to load. My shotgun looks almost identical to the one in the picture Robert

I just talked to FNH about the Competition model as well as the SLP Mk 1 Tactical a few weeks ago. I was told that neither will be available until 2012 sometime. No definate dates were provided. Robert

Here are a few things I did to my 11-87 to make it more user friendly and function better. Make sure you have additional o-rings for the gas system. Keep the gun lubricated. 1. Open loading port and bevel edges. 2. Add Dave's Metal Works easyloader gate. 3. Replaced the bolt handle. 4. Added Nordic Components extended mag tube. 5. Replaced factory Mag tube follower with stainless steel follower. 6. Polished mag tube with mag extension in place. 7. Replaced wood furniture with composite stock and forearm. 8. Added fiber optic sight(s) to rib. 9. Bought choke set. 10. Replaced factory action spring assembly with Surefire components. 11. Added barrel clamp. I hope this helps. Robert

The Fulton Armory upper looks just like what I need. I am going to call them about the availability of a matched upper and lower. Thanks everyone. Robert

I am looking for a source. A manufacturer. Other than DPMS I cannot find anything that will work. Cna someone point me in the right direction? Robert

I am looking for a matched upper and lower billet receiver set, preferably in the DPMS compatible design. I am going with a side charging handle so it cannot have a forward assist or dust cover. I am starting over on my long range precision build and need the upper and lower to get started. Any help would be appreciated. Robert

Another vote for side mount. I have shot both and definitely prefer the sideways mount. I have modified a Bladetech holster for 3 gun. I holds the gun very well with only a slightly longer draw time (I haven't really timed the difference). Robert

Is there any real reason to change Open? Anybody can shoot minor in open under current rules. Does anyone seriously believe that by going to minor scoring and/or changing the power factor, that the best shooters will be less competitive and average shooters will be more competitive? Open works the way it is. It is the top class in the sport. Don't mess with it. It works just fine the way it is. Robert

I was thinking the exact same thing. Shut off the gas and manually operate the bolt. Does that increase the accuracy of the gun? If you need multiple shots then turn the gas on and deal with the reduction in accuracy. Does that make sense? Robert

I have the 24" barrel. My thought was to work with that. I am sure the gun will out shoot me initially. Once I get comfortable shooting the gun then I can replace the barrel. Building one of these is expensive. I am not cutting corners but I think the barrel I have should get me through the first year of shooting. I was also thinking of somehow putting in a method to shut off the gas so the gun would shoot as a single shot. That has tactical as well as accuracy considerations. I plan on using the 175gr SMK in a custom load for this gun. I will start working up the load once I get closer to completing the gun. I am curious to know what powder you use. Robert

Does the Ballistic FTE add the wind, temp, and barometric pressure like the iSnipe? Robert

Is anyone using an Apple 4G IPhone for ballistic software? Which app are you using and why? Which one has the best features? Which is the easiest to use? Thanks in advance. Robert

I have a stock DPMS 308 upper with a chrome plated bolt. I am going to add a side mounted (right side as I am left handed) charging handle. I was wondering what other modifications to the upper could or need to be made to accurize it? Since I will be getting machine work done on it I might as well get it all done at once. What about the BCG? In adding the addition reciprocating mass of the charging handle I intend to have the BCG lightened at least the same amount. Should I have it lightened more? The stock barrel I plan to shoot until I wear it out then replace with a better one. I will be having the barrel threaded and a sure fire compensator mounted. I am toying with the idea of fluting the barrel. For weight reduction and cooling efficiency. I have heard pros and cons of fluting. Any opinions? The last thing is a +20 to +30 scope riser as I plan to shoot this out to 1000 Yards (more often around 800 - 850). Thoughts? Robert

I am reading the responses with so much excitement. I have decided to go with the Horus reticle for sure. My only remaining question is what scope to put it in. I am not asking that question as there are 100's if not 1000's of posts in various forums to review the manufacturer choice. It will be obviously restricted to those manufactures that have a Horus option. Anyone having a list of those manufactures, I would love to see it. Thank you everyone for your posts and opinions. Now do I get the H37 or the H58 reticle. Decisions, decisions. Robert