Paradox
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Posts posted by Paradox
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I am considering cutting one of my Bushmaster 20" chrome lined barrels. Would this operation pose a problem if cut in a lathe? If not, is there anything special I need to do/look for when cutting? I have been told that the chrome lining will quickly dull the hand driven cutters (such as the ones from Brownells).
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I am surprised no one has mentioned the Custom Glock 0.090" FS. I prefer a thin (.090 or smaller) front sight for plenty of light on the sides. All of the glock sights I have tried are REALLY wide. For the longest time I just cut the factory FS with a razor blade to the width of the white dot and filled it in. The only problem was the plastic deformed easily. Anyway, Matt Kartozian has this FS in .215" and .285" for Dawson/Bomar and Heinie's rears. Unleashed is running this FS that's been cut down to match his plain Novak rear for a nice low profile setup
See Link Here:
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I don't shoot it in .45 ACP b/c it's not reloadable (to my knowledge). Love it in my ARs b/c I don't reload rifle ammo.
I don't mind shooting it in my AR's if I need Improved Cylinder sized groups @ 100m
But... it is inexpensive and fun for plinking
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+1 From 8Ring and Steven's responses.
In my experience it is due to the fast burning powder. My 'everything' .45ACP load is a 200gr moly coated over 4.7gr of WST. This load makes major in my 5" guns - it's also been pretty accurate in several pistols. Slower powders like N320, WST, and maybe some Universal Clays should clean up the leading. The feel I got from plain Clays wasn't worth the time I spent cleaning the barrel, and anything around 168-170pf will still feel softer than the factory hardball loads.
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Good ideas guys... please keep them coming
LJE - I like the design, do you have approximate dimensions?
Thanks!
Justin
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Our club has a dedicated bay for a shooting house, but time/weather/bullets has taken it's toll. We haven't been able to use it this year, and I am proposing plans to the club for replacement. It is (was) contructed with 2x4's, 4x4's, plywood covered sides, and a door in the back.
Does anyone have a diagram or picture of their "house" prop? How about ideas for the best building material? I am thinking of using 2x4's for structure and the orange plastic construction mesh for sides (perhaps an additional covering of black visqueen to prevent transparency).
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
-Justin
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I don't remember reading about this anywhere else, my apologies if this is a duplicate.
After thousands of dry fire/live fire presentations I found myself doing something that I didn't realize I was doing until recently.
My pistol is positioned so that the grip is parallel with my belt, and the magwell is around the 3 o'clock position on my belt. With hands at side start, the magwell just touches the inside of my right forearm. I realized I was using that point as an index or reference from which to start the draw. While it is a 'little' thing, I know that if my arm is in that same relationship my draw will be on. For a Production rig I am doing the same thing only with a different part of the pistol.
While this isn't ground breaking, I hope that someone might be able to use this to their advantage
On second thought, maybe everyone is already doing it and I am a slow learner -
While I don't have any 9mm load data to provide, I do have an observation that might be relevant.
I am pretty anal about loading my .308Win match rounds, as a result I have weighed and measured case volume on lots of cases. Basically, I have found that case weight and case volume are not always related. The extra mass could come from areas that do not affect its volume.
Filling cases with water and the associated process isn't something on my fun list, so I never tried it on pistol cases. Perhaps there is a similar correlation with the 9x19 cases?
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You could drop it off at my house, and hopefully... you would *eventually* forget about it
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Anyone happen to know if the Ultramax ammo uses an off the shelf powder? Perhaps something to duplicate the load...
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More specifically, I am looking into picking a powder to reload 55gr and 69gr bullets. This topic has come up before and I have narrowed my choices. I see W748 come up frequently when people talk about pet loads for .223, but I want something more stable and cleaner burning. I know that in general, ball powders tend to be more temperature sensitive than the extruded counterparts. I currently use Varget in my .308 bolt guns, but want something that meters better in the 550. I am looking for a powder that is relatively temperature insensitive, and clean burning. I will be using the 55gr Hornady FMJBT, and Nosler/Sierra 69's. Given the following list of powders, can someone give me their experiences?
H322
H335
Benchmark
BL-C(2)
A2230
A2520
For cost I am looking at A2230C. If that powder doesn't fit my requirements I am leaning towards one of Hodgdon's Extreme powders.
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Check this Stock out for 3Gun practice!!
I have built quite a few 10-22's and have gone through almost every part aftermarket part imaginable. raz-0 has pretty much summed it all up for you. I have found lots of 10-22's in pawn shops that were beat up and abused for next to nothing. If you are going to do a complete build-up, all you need is the action. If I were to make a list of 'must do's' for a built 10/22 they would be (in no particular order):
1. Extractor (VQ or Power Custom)
2. Polymer Bolt Buffer (Weaponkraft)
3. Cut Bolt face depth to 0.043" (Most factory are 0.055" or larger)
4. Trigger Job
5. Add aftermarket barrel of choice
For the money, Green Mountain barrels are the bomb. You can always pay more...
Mods #1-4 are the first things I do to a factory rifle. If you can get the factory barrel crowned and rechambered you might be surprised what they can do.
The easiest 'trigger job' would be to add an aftermarket trigger with over travel, and replace the hammer with a VQ. The difference from stock is night and day. They usually have a little bit of creep after this, but the sear can be stoned. Alternatively, you can stone the factory parts or pay a gunsmith to do it for you.
My 2 current favorites are:
Squirrel gun:
Hogue OM stock, Butler Creek Carbon Fiber Bull barrel, extractor, bolt faced, trigger job, bolt buffer, Power Custom weaver mount, Aimpoint.
This one is VERY light, think pellet gun. This rifle was assembled with leftover parts, and I ended up liking it the best. For a carry rifle, it rocks. The butler creek barrel was one of the first aftermarket barrels I tried, and while not the most accurate, it hits minute of squirrel head @ 25m.
3Gun Practice Rifle:
RB Precision Evolution stock, GM Bull barrel, bolt faced, trigger job, bolt buffer, Ace skeleton stock/Ergo grip (AR15), extractor, and EoTech / Simmons optic.
Take a look at the link at the top - pictures are worth a thousand words...
There is no way I could put everything in one post, but for a huge wealth of information check out this site:
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/
P.S. - If you buy 25rd magazines, get the ones with the steel lips
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Yup, I called Dawson today and they don't offer a .090" FS for the glock... I also spent a minute googling... and found this:
Custom Glock (Third product from the top)
Matt Kartozian has a .090" FS for Heinie, Dawson, and Bomar. (However, it is non-FO).
I think the Dawson rear with the .090 FS will be a winner for me.
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I would like to load some 55gr FMJ rounds using the bulk Hornady bullets. I have heard complaints about W748 powder producing large pressure variations between the seasons. How much difference does it really make? Most of my shooting is done between 40 F - 105 F. Am I worrying about something that shouldn't be an issue, or is worth going to a less temperature sensitive powder. (I am thinking Benchmark or similar).
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Can someone confirm that Dawson sells a .090" FO FS for the Glock? I just picked up a G17 for Production and I am debating between the Dawson Adjustables, or the Heinie Slant pro's. I like the lower profile of the fixed sights, but I also like the ability to easily change the POA. Decisions, decisions...
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Well guys I got a chance to try the Trail boss in 45 ACP. I used 5.0 grs and 200 swc gr Rainier bullet. Not very powerful but damn its accurate. I think I've found the plinking load of a lifetime. 5.0 grs is compressed a little. No way in hell can you over charge a case. Wish I had a chorno. I would quess its 750-800 or there abouts
Mike In OKC
This has peaked my intrest. My local powder dealer happens to have a few pounds in stock for the Cowboy Action shooters. If 5gr under a 200 moly-coated pill gives 830 or so fps...
Carlos - If you get the chrono setup please post the results
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....... My understanding is Titegroup is not recommended for Moly-Poly coated bullets (maker recommendation).,,,,,,
What maker???My personal experience with Titegroup and Master Blasters is that in some (most) barrels, you will get excessive leading and smoke. I haven't noticed any leading with the Precisions, and there is slightly less smoke. I still prefer slower powders or single based powders for Moly / Cast bullets.
WSF should work fine, my personal preference for cast or moly bullets is N320 or WST. I used WST with the MB's for 2 years as I also use it in .45ACP. .40 Minor loads with 200grain lead/coated bullets over 3.7-4.0 grains of 320 make for some real mousefart loads.
P.S. - After trying most of the forementioned powders, I stuck with N320. Can you tell I like it?
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Ding! Ding! Ding! We have a winner
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What's a caliper?
Seriously, just make sure there aren't any split cases or other abnormalities... and shoot 'em.
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I'll believe it, right after someone does a double blind test using at least 10 barrels in each configuration. I've heard and read this...well...I won't use the word I want...for years and years and it's always the same deal: a single data point with a user committed to demonstrating a predetermined result.
It's a great way to do science if you want to go far in the Sierra Club, but it's considered junk science everywhere else.
Do good science first ........ then promote the product. That's not too much to ask.
Amen.
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Both powders are good choices. I have used Titegroup, N320, Competition, and WST for .40 Major. In my experience, Titegroup works well with Jacketed bullets and some of the moly coated pills. I wouldn't recommend it for use with plain cast bullets - lots of smoke. N320 works well with any of the bullets I have used (Jacketed, Cast, or Coated). I have also noticed that N320 burns the cleanest of the two, as Titegroup leaves a dark red / brown soot on the muzzle of my pistols. If economy is a concern I would have no problem using it as I can tell no difference between the two (recoil wise). Both meter well in my Dillon. N320 fills the case better. That being said, I just purchased 12 Lbs of N320 from Powder Valley, so you can guess what my choice is.
I think either would also work well in Major/Minor .40 and Minor 9mm.
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Now, I just need to find some new uses to justify all the beer I have drank...
My personal favorite is Stolichnaya…
1.) To remove a bandage painlessly, saturate it with vodka. The
Alcohol dissolves the adhesive.
2.) To clean the caulking around bathtubs and showers, fill a
trigger-spray bottle with vodka, spray caulking, let set 5 minutes and
wash clean. The alcohol in the vodka kills mold and mildew.
3.) To clean your eyeglasses, simply wipe the lenses with a soft,
Clean cloth dampened with vodka. The alcohol in the vodka cleans the glass and
kills germs.
4.) Prolong the life of razors by filling a cup with vodka and letting
your safety razor blade soak in the alcohol after shaving. The vodka
disinfects the blade and prevents rusting.
5.) Spray vodka on vomit stains, scrub with a brush, and then blot
dry.
6.) Using a cotton ball, apply vodka to face as an astringent to
cleanse the skin and tighten pores.
7.) Add a splash of vodka to 12-ounces of shampoo; it cleanses scalp,
removes toxins to stimulate growth.
8.) Fill a 16-oz spray bottle; spray bees or wasps to kill.
9.) Pour ½ cup vodka and ½ cup water in a freezer bag and freeze for a
slushy, reusable ice pack for aches, pain or black eyes.
10.) Make mouthwash by mixing 9 tablespoons powered cinnamon with 1 cup
vodka. Seal in an airtight container for 2 weeks. Strain through a
coffee filter. Mix with warm water and rinse your mouth. (DON'T SWALLOW!)
11.) Using a cotton swab, apply vodka to a cold sore to help it dry
out.
12.) If blister opens, pour vodka over the raw skin as a local
Anesthetic that also disinfects the exposed dermis.
13.) To treat dandruff, mix 1 cup vodka with 2 teaspoons crushed
rosemary. Let sit 2 days, strain through a coffee filter, massage into your scalp
and dry.
14.) To treat an earache, put a few drops of vodka in your ear. Let
Sit for a few minutes, then drain. Vodka will kill the bacteria causing pain
in your ear.
15.) To relieve a fever, use a washcloth to rub vodka on your chest and
back as a liniment.
16.) To cure foot odor, wash your feet with vodka.
17.) Vodka will disinfect and relieve a jellyfish sting.
19.) Pour vodka over an area affected with poison ivy to remove the
urushiol oil from your skin.
20.) Swish a shot of vodka over an aching tooth. Allow your gums to
absorb some of the alcohol to numb the pain.
I heard something about fuzz in the navel but cannot remember what that
was. What the heck, take a sip at times.
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The Dan Lilja article pretty much mirrors what I initially thought about the process. My 'Cynical Skeptic Mode' was/has been on too, but I wanted to get opinions before introducing my bias
The process I was referring to is called "sub-harmonic vibrational stress relief".
VSR has been in use for several industrial applications, and I have heard positive results for those that tried it. However, I haven't seen use in the commercial firearms industry. If a rifle barrel did in fact benefit from stress relief, I would think VSR could be far more cost effective.
One of my good friends is a professional race engine builder, and some of his customers are requesting 'stress relieved' components. The parts are nodular cast iron, 4130 steel, A-356 Aluminum... and some others that escape me for the moment.
My father is an engineer in the metals industry, but they anneal their products. I spoke with him about VSR in a brief phone conversation... He thought the idea was "interesting" but he would need to see more information about it. If it looks promising, I might have a small VSR setup to play with...
What maker???
Front Sight Loose In Dovetail
in General Gunsmithing
Posted · Edited by Paradox
The front sight on my STI Edge is getting loose. I noticed that it looks to have a roll pin on the under side. What is the best way to fix this? Can I drill/tap for a set screw and loctite it?
Thanks!
Edited to note that I am not using the factory FS.