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Paradox

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Posts posted by Paradox

    Wap And Ramshot

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted

    Here is my reply from Ramshot:

    Sir,

    Thank you for your interest in Ramshot Powders. I have attached a copy of our current loading manual for you to use in the determination of whether Silhouette is the old WAP. I cannot legally tell you that they are the same but the data is pretty much identical.

    Good Shooting,

    XXXXX

    Wap And Ramshot

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted

    Odie,

    I compared load data between the two, and they appear almost identical based on published charge weights... (WAP has been discontinued for a while but I did have an old manual around...) Current load data for Silhouette can be found on Ramshot's website. http://www.ramshot.com

    180gr Sierra JHP, Ramshot Silhouette, WSP, 1.135" OAL

    5.5gr = 920 FPS; 6.2gr = 1,020FPS

    I have also sent the question to Ramshot, and will post the reply I recieve. Going to experiment with the 'smoke-less' cast bullet powder?

    P.S. - Did you get a chance to test the 'new' loads today?

    Speedsec 5 Holster

    in Gear & Accessories

    Posted

    In case you haven't made a decision yet... Here is another satisfied owner of the SS5 Holster.

    I just recieved a SpeedSec holster this week from Chuck @ Shooter's Connection. I used a Safariland 012 for the previous 3 years, and grew to dislike several things about it. So far, I have no complaints about this holster - however I haven't used a Ghost Holster (that would have been my next choice if I hadn't run across this one). Most of my friends have gone away from the 012 to either Ghosts, CR Speeds, or these.

    9mm / Clays / Titegroup

    in 9mm/38 Caliber

    Posted

    Clays and 147's go well together for me. Try starting at 2.9gr and adjust accordingly. You didn't mention what gun you are shooting them in. From a friend's G34, 2.8gr under 147 Zeros make minor. 2.9 grains in a G17 also makes minor. Recoil is about as 'Mouse Fart' as you can get... I just purchased some Precision Moly bullets to try, haven't chrono'd or tested them for accuracy.

    -HTH

    Dust Cover

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted

    The advantages are - it has a full dust cover.

    The disadvantages are - it has a full dust cover.

    Not to sound like a complete smart ass, but the light / heavy comparision has been going on forever. I have found that when starting out, I liked a slow (heavy) pistol to help steady the gun and tame recoil. The full dust cover + a fiber FS helped me to start 'seeing' a continuous sight picture. Once I was able to consistantly see the FS, they became "training wheels".

    Now, I prefer a lighter gun that transitions faster. My recoil control and visual aquity has improved to the point where I like 'snappy'. I still own both styles of pistols, and love them both for different qualities.

    My suggestion is try to shoot both and see which one you like. More importantly, shoot both of them on the clock - sometimes your perception is decieving.

    P.S. - Forgot to add. No matter what you pick, spend lots of time dryfiring and money on bullets. The skills for shooting are the same no matter what you pick, and over time you will probably find the platform makes less of a difference.

    Suggestions For A Good .22 Caliber Pistol?

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted

    A marvel top end is nice, as long as it runs.

    I like excuses for new firearms :)

    I use a Ruger 22/45 with a stainless bull barrel, the thing has had a bazillion rounds through it and eats EVERYTHING. The controls are very similar to my 1911's Magazines are pretty cheap, it is plenty accurate (minute of plate rack @ 100yds - not that it actually knocks them over haha). I highly recommend shooting a couple of bricks through it - then get a trigger job, aftermarket extractor / spring, and slick up the internals.

    Reloading For Ipsc/uspsa

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted

    Welcome to the addiction I call USPSA!

    There are tons of loads listed in the .45 Reloading section, but as stated the 200gr or 230gr bullets are hard to beat over Clays (that's plain Hodgdon Clays). The combo is incredibly soft compared to factory ammo. I prefer the Precision moly bullets for MY money.

    If you happen to have any Winchester WST in your stockpile, I think you will find it satisfactory for .45ACP too. Personally, I don't care for Titegroup with a non jacketed bullet.

    Cleaning Brass?

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted

    You have had some good responses, I just wanted to add a few :)

    I believe it was EricW that posted a thread about an electronic timer suitable for a tumbler. When I lived in an apartment, I set mine on a timer for 2-3 Hrs when I was at work. Definately do the filling / separating chores outside (I always seem to make a mess regardless...)

    The tumbler you get will depend on your volume of shooting. I started with a Lyman and a Frankford Arsenal; similar sized units will do about 500 or so pistol cases. Last summer I switched to the big Dillon. After using it a few times, I wished I had switched sooner! So far, it has cleaned more than 30K cases and no problems yet. Get a separator you will thank me later! The cheapie unit from Frankford will work fine until you need the Dillon. (Sure beats sifting by hand, and it is more likely to unlodge loose cleaning media.) I have yet to burn any of them up, even after accidentally leaving my Lyman and Frankford Arsenal tumblers on for 24hrs at a time. I use a 50/50 mix of fine corn cob and walnut with the Dillon polish - after 2 hrs the stuff is plenty clean to load; at 3hrs the stuff has a mirror finish.

    My last suggestion: When you first load the tumbler, put about an inch in the bottom of the bowl; then load the cases. Turn the unit on, and add the cleaning media until the whole mess starts swirling. In my experience, if the cases just sit in one place while the tumbler is running it takes longer for them to clean.

    Powder Temperature Sensitivity

    in Precision Rifle

    Posted · Edited by Paradox

    Re: Dillon Powder Measure

    All of the stick powders take longer to 'drop' compared to ball powders and especially compared to loading pistol. Varget pretty much sucks unless you have a bit of patience - when I lower the press arm I count one-thousand-one and give an extra tap at the end of the stroke. I have also tried H4895, which metered a little easier - can't comment on the others as I haven't tried them. The few times I tried it was enough for me, but I am sure there are plenty of people that do load it on a progressive. Now, unless I am cranking out volumes of .223 with ball powder for my AR, I now load all of my rifle gun ammo on a single stage press.

    Edited b/c I need a dikshunary...

    Improving Accuacy Glock 19?

    in Glock

    Posted

    Everyone has given good advice, the factory sights... suck. The trigger took me a while to get used to, especially after shooting 1911 / 2011 for so long. Tons of dryfire with emphasis on trigger control will go a long way. (A trigger job helps a bit too). One of my friends and I routinely have step back drills on 2 plate racks. So far my limit is 60yds on the 8" plates. That is with stock barrels (I have a G22 and a G17). Ditto on ammo selection. I found that my N320 loads were noticably more accurate than the Clays (in minor). On larger steel targets (Cowboy targets) we were ringing them regularly at 125yds - just aim at the top edge of the plate :). Ironically, I find shooting an 8" plate at distance easier than shooting tiny groups at half the distance??

    Powder Temperature Sensitivity

    in Precision Rifle

    Posted

    Hodgdon's Extreme line have been very consistent across temperature extremes for me. I use copious amounts of Varget in .223Rem and .308Win for my bolt actions. My biggest complaint is that there seems to be more difference in lot variations - so I just buy in bigger jugs :)

    Most of the ball powders I have tried H335, W748, etc... have been more sensitive to temperature. I believe you will find these results pretty consistent.

    Vv 320 & 330 Temp Coeff

    in 10mm/40 Caliber

    Posted

    In East Texas, I make 168-169PF with 4.3gr N320 @ 1.180" (~100+ deg.F). This time of year it takes about .5gr more to make the same PF (~35 deg.F). If I anticipate shooting a big match in colder weather, I bump the charge accordingly. I am pretty sure David Re shoots the same combo and has similar experiences - he has mentioned it in several threads.

    From the voice of experience: Life at the chrono became easier once I kept a detailed spreadsheet of load data and ambient temperature / humidity when I chronograph.

    Break S&w 686 From Dryfire?

    in Revolver Forum

    Posted

    During the off season / hollidays I spent a considerable amount of time dry firing my S&W 686 (I normally shoot a bottom feeder). The pistol is completely factory box stock. The cool part is, DA pull feels really nice and slick compared to when I got it. However, when I cock the hammer for SA fire the last 1/4" - 3/8" is NOTICEABLY harder to set. The pistol seems to function fine (I have fired it since all of the dry fire). I didn't even really notice it until a buddy picked it up and pointed it out.

    I have no problem digging into the internals on a semi, but I never have tinkered with a revo. In fact, the one time I did see a S&W "apart" was almost 13 years ago. Any suggestions on what is wrong and how to fix it?

    Thanks!

    Back Touching Chair Starts

    in Stage Comments or Questions

    Posted

    Locally, we started using one of the 'school lunchroom' type chairs (metal frame with solid plastic seat). Instead of using the term 'back against chair' we modified it to say "back and or magazines against back of chair". I have noticed far fewer equipment related malfunctions and complaints since doing it this way.

    Personally, I find the laying on table starts far more uncomfortable than chair starts....

    Stainless Finish How-to

    in General Gunsmithing

    Posted · Edited by Paradox

    Dern, somehow I just knew it couldn't be that easy... Ok, so the finer grit is best. If that isn't dark enough can I get something similar to cold blueing for stainless?

    Peterdaw - Your links aren't working for me...

    Stainless Finish How-to

    in General Gunsmithing

    Posted

    I have a bright stainless rifle I would like to "De-Glare".

    I could teflon "bake" paint it, but I want something more durable. One of my buddies had a Ruger Super Blackhawk in .454Casull. The stainless finish was a dark grey, and I would like to duplicate that look for this rifle.

    I assume it is just a bead blast finish? Does the grit of the media change the darkness? IOW - Fine grit leaves a lighter finish, coarse grit makes it darker?

    For an example of what I am referring to:

    Ruger Super Redhawk "Target Grey"

    Reloading In An Apartment

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted

    (Also consider orienting your bed so the headboard is near a wall where the next room behind it is part of your apartment. Yeah, more complaints by the same neighbor.)

    OMG! I was drinking water when I read that and now it is all over my LCD / Keyboard!! LOLOL (Ahhh, memories from when I lived in an apartment that shouldn't be repeated on a public forum...) The funniest part is when the neighbor starts retaliating!

    Sorry this was off topic, and caught me totally off guard...

    If you look through "The Gallery" section of the forums under the "Reloading Bench" thread, you might run across a picture of Nolan Smyth's tumbler cabinet. If it were decently insulated (not sure if that would cause over-heating problems), I bet the noise would be less of a disturbance.

    While obvious, I found that the time of day I made noise made a huge difference in my neighbors' attitudes... For example, I would start the tumbler (on a timer) when I left in the morning, then start a new batch during lunch.

    One last thing... If you look through the yellow pages for a "Hose and Gasket" shop (like for industrial / commerical pipes), they usually have scraps of various thicknesses of sheet rubber / gasket material. I happened to work next to one and the place had literally tons of closed cell foam, rubber, and plastics laying around. The material can be used to pad or insulate almost anything. I still use a 1.5' by 2' sheet that is 1/4" thick sheet to cover my gun / reloading bench, as solvents and other debris can be easily dumped in the garbage.

    -HTH

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