CocoBolo
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Posts posted by CocoBolo
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9 hours ago, zzt said:
Red Dot is great as a pistol powder. Alliant used to publish tons of data for it, as well as all their other shotgun powders. Since this is a thread on 9mm, here are the max loads from their 2005 reloading guide. Data is using WSP and a 4" barrel.
115 FMJ, 1.12 OAL, 4.5gr for 1150 fps @ 32600 psi.
125 FMJ, 1.15, 4.5, 1145, 32000
147 XTP, 1.14, 3.4, 895, 32400
Works fine for 40sw and 45acp as well.
Thanks for the Info. When I got the RedDot I loaded about a 1000 45's, it was ok but my goto for 45 is Clays (200gr SWC).
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I hear you I just paid $85 for two pounds of N320, the last two within 100 miles. When it runs out I'm going use some of the 16#s of WST I bought during the OBAMA decade. Now if I could just find a use for 8#'s of RedDot.
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Something new I learned. The 6 moa dot in my new Romeo 1 is super bright compared to my 5 C-more sights, 4 being 8 moa and one being 6 moa. The size of the Romeo 1 6 MOA is about the same as the C-more 8 MOA. With the sight at full brightness I aim it at a 60 watt equivalent LED bulb about 2 feet away the 6 moa C-more is so pale I have to hunt for it, the 8 MOA C-more is pretty washed out but easily visible, the Romeo 1 has to be turned down it is too bright. Sunday I totally tanked a stage with the 6 moa, facing the morning sun the dot was so washed out I had a hard time finding it. If it was the off season I would have switched mounts and gone to a Romeo 1 but being I want to shoot and I know C-more's last for ever, almost, I just ordered an 8-moa C-more to replace the 6-moa. Since the 6 moa is more than a decade old I decided to get a new one, and send the old one in to be rebuilt and keep it for a spare. You mileage may very, but this is my story.
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That Butt Slam is no joke, it can drop check and still not feed, been there done that. You will be shocked how much a tenth of a grain can change the grouping.
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44 minutes ago, ddc said:
What about getting the leade opened up a bit so "normal" OAL rounds will fit?
I actually have a 9 mm throat reamer, and have used it on my STI Open guns, I'm way more concerned with OAL on 9 major. When you stuff 10grs of powder in a 9 mm case you can't make short bullets, and if you did it might not be wise. FMJ and JHP's work at normal OAL in the CZ, its just the coated round nose that are fatter towards the point that need to be loaded short. The CZ is very accurate and if it ain't broke don't fix it.
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Plated bullets take a little extra care in loading. Do a search here, belling and crimping.
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A plunk checker is almost useless with my CZ SP01 Shadow. When I load any new "bullet" I pull the barrel out and make up a test round and drop it in the barrel, but the true test is getting it out! When pulling it out if it resists at all that's a problem. The ACME 125gr is a good example, I loaded 1,000's at 1.135 shot them in Glocks, my Carry gun Kahr PM9, PCC, Sig P226, etc. I take the CZ to range and shoot a 100 work good. I go to a match, and its all good till unload and show clear, I can't open the slide. Not every round is like that that small variance in the bullet and the OAL made a few too snug, my barrel plunking said 1.130 would cure the issue. ARMSCOR 125 FMJ, no problem at 1.150. By the way really like the Acme bullets, but my latest supply is Monkey Brass Bullets 125gr and those had to go to 1.120 for the CZ. Like you I'm a fan of N320, but have a lot of WST and RedDot.
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In 38 Super my favorite loads were AA#7 10.5gr with 124gr JHP, or 11.3gr with 115gr. OAL was standard 1.245. Out of my guns it ran 175pf, I didn't like 10gr because it didn't produce enough gas, so gassed it up. 5" 2 holes and a Bedel Titanium Comp. I liked N105 just never could get it when needed.
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As always, Open the Registry Editor and navigate to
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetControlPrint
If you see a key named PostSPUpgrade, right-click and click on Delete. -
I took the plunge into the PCC pool. Bought a used stock Freedom FX9 gun from a guy that shot it in matches. It has been a disaster. Today 4th time to a match it ran and the dot stayed on.
I had trouble with double feeds, my trusty old EOTec would go lights out after a few shots. The recoil wasn't exactly pleasant, but nothing like my 30-06 deer rifle. The trigger wasn't very good, ok it sucked. I took it to 3 matches, and had trouble every time as stated above.
Yesterday the mail man brought the parts, I installed the CMC Trigger, and I installed the Blitzkrieg HD buffer with the Orange 308 spring. I didn't get the Extractor and spring which I thought I needed.
Today at the match on the first stage I had 2 mags of normal minor load 125gr Acme with 4.0gr of N320. Thinking that heavy spring might stop if from cycling I had a mag full of 115gr Armscor with 6.2 gr of Autocom, that should blow it back.
Shocked and pleased the gun ran 100% all day on the regular minor ammo. It went from more recoil than an AR or more like the M1 carbine to a soft almost pushing sensation, no more jack hammering my shoulder. The EOtec stayed lit the whole time, I went thru it before and found nothing wrong, so I guessed it was the jack hammer effect losing power momentarily in the battery case. Trigger is nice, much better than stock and it went bang everytime.
Just have to say the Blitzkrieg buffer set p did exactly what they said it would, the gun ran and it was much easier to shoot fast.
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The only place I found Jacketed bullets in stock is Weidners, they had ArmsCor 115gr and 124gr FMJ, I'm saving my MG JHP's for the more important matches.
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The most important aspect of any Rim Fire in SC, is that it runs 100%, everything else becomes a mood point if it don't run.
My RFPO has a rail mount C-More in 6 moa, my open guns are side mores, the rail mount works fine for SC. Finding the dot lol, just lock on to it while at low ready, arms up bang, not like drawing an open gun where muscle memory is everything. When it comes to dots Buy once cry once. C-More is a good solid choice, however it is old school and not sexy like the new micro dots. I have a Romeo 1 on my CO gun, so far it is excellent. Carry extra C-more batteries they don't last long.
Couple decades ago I went to my first SC match, I was completely humbled by an 86 year old woman shooting a Bersa Thunder. Put some of your money into practice.
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Sweet, there is just something about the clean simple look. It needs some holster wear marks to make it a classic!
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1 hour ago, Aircooled6racer said:
Hello, You can try some Clean Shot. It is a softer than Tite Group and accurate enough for USPSA. Burns clean and does not smoke as bad as some other powders. I like Tite Group as well for 9mm and 40 S&W. My plated 124grain load is 3.9 grains Clean Shot, WSP primers and a 1.135" OAL for a G17. It gives me 129PF at 70 degrees. Try some of your 135 grain bullets since they will feel softer but still be quick back on target. Thanks, Eric
HOLA my favorite bullet for 9 mm minor is the 135gr, a good reduction in recoil from the 125gr, the 147gr seem sluggish, you stand there waiting on the slide to cycle, seems like it anyway. IMHO TiteGroup is harsh, nasty, and hot, but it might slightly edge out 231/WST which don't over heat the gun, and don't coat it in gunk. My go to powder for 9 mm minor is N320, it even smells good. IMR 7625 was my favorite but they quit making it. I tried Clays, yes I like to live dangerous, it was like shooting mouse fart loads, way low on recoil, but I gave it up because the accuracy was horrible.
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Being Sponsored.
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That must be a good Para! Don't see many Para's these days. Load sounds good, I've shot a lot of WST at 4.3 gr with Precison 125gr bullets and they were accurate and it makes minor 130-135pf. Never loaded anything that short mostly 1.130 to 1.175 depending on the bullet. My guns run better with a longer OAL.
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I use to run my C-mores at full brightness. After my 4 year hiatus from shooting I have changed that. While shooting on a bench rest at 25 yards with the dot turned down the holes were tied together perfectly 5 shot group all touching. I turned the dot up full bloom like I use to shoot and the hits went high left and spread out. I know sounds like science fiction but I was able to repeat this test several times consistently. Starting over again having some issues finding the elusive dot and being much slower than the good old days I found having the dot turned up bright was causing me to focus more on the dot than the target. Now I'm one of those annoying shooter at make ready that take a few extra seconds to adjust the dot brightness to enough to easily see but not attention grabbing.
I just put a Romeo 1 on a CZ SP01 Shadow, now that thing is so bright it hurts my eyes, so yes turn it way down again to plainly visible.
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I would think that the recoil impulse would be similar to what you are use to and the POI should be close. I shot 200gr with tight group for a long time, jacketed were more expensive than other bullets, in the quest for an inexpensive alternative that felt good I tried several weights, brands etc. My favorite bullet became one that my 7 time world shoot limited champion recommended. The 185gr Precision swagged bullet made in Kemp TX. These make power factor with less powder and they cost less and the recoil impulse is softer than the 200gr, plus they are very accurate. While it will get no love WST is the powder I used and still use for 40. The trick is not to cut the coating when loading and get the crimp right, just enough to hold it solid.
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I'm a multi-decade shooter. Like they say screwing up starts when you think you know how or everthing.
Maiden voyage of my new to me PCC. I threw my trusty older than dirt EO Tech on it, grabbed my Glock open gun mags took it to the range tested every mag it was all good, even the new trigger I installed.
To the match, Stage one first two shots were good then I got the double feed, crap, had to pull the mag rock the the gun for it to fall out. Continue 1st shot 2nd target good, then it started the EOTech would go lights out every 2nd or third shot. My time was in the toilet with the double feed, but my hits were not all that bad, except for the last target on the stage 2 mikes, else all A's, go figure.
Found the round that double fed, nothing to see here but it is a JHP, all the round nose fed. To the safe table took EOTec apart changed batteries beat on it, the light stayed on, good to go.
Stage 2 - Got all RN ammo in the mags ready to bring it, first few shots and I kind of felt relieved, then it started lights out lights on, if I reached up and pushed the brightness up button it would come on then soon as I fired a shot lights out. Jammed up on the last target one shot to go. Ok so I didn't take it saved 30 seconds, that is what you learn with experience.
Then I saw that the squad on the next stage was tearing down, I've shot lots of matches in the rain so it didn't occur to me I could be saved by the rain!
But to prove I love to be punished, I am taking my CZ Shadow SP01, safe queen for years, with its new Romeo 1 out to the next match to try Carry Optics. I'm still trying to figure out how 4 years in the safe made my Open Gun shoot a foot low and 6 inches to the left, as tested after the match on a ransom rest and confirmed by my fried that does those 1000 yard shots.
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I'm sure there is something good about TiteGroup, I just don't know what it is. I used up about 16 pounds of it and never ever thought about buying any more. Maybe for 40 with 200gr I would try it again, nope not going there. I really do like coated bullets and like Darrell says open up the bell enough and don't cut the coating and they work awesome. Less recoil at same PF than jacketed, and no need for a gallon of Flitz like plain lead. Bayou is my favorite and ACME in second, the wood boxes come in handy for storing stuff in the bench. The neat thing about the coated bullets is that the barrel looks cleaner after shooting them.
What I would choose instead of TiteGroup in order of preference - N320, SR7625, HP38, WST, RedDot, Solo 1000, AA5, WSF, AutoComp and so on.
Like it hot dirty and rough TiteGroup.
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As a general rule, when dealing with a new bullet profile I size a case and set a bullet longer than I intend to load being sure not to crimp. (and no powder or primer). Then I take it and chamber it in the gun I intend to shoot it in. Chambering will shorten it to the longest length that the gun will accept. Measure it then load 3 more dummies -.01 shorter and make sure they fit and dry cycle thru the gun. If it is all good and it feeds well that is the starting OAL. If it won't fit in the gun then it don't matter what the load table says. With that I consider the Load data just to make sure I'm not way over spec. It is that OGIVE thing, each bullet profile is different, I had to adjust OAL slightly going from Montana Gold 124gr JHP to Precision Delta 124gr JHP, the precision delta is slightly larger in diameter, just enough my carry gun wouldn't eat it, the open gun no problem.(minor load, all the majors are 1.165-1.175).
In your case if you are satisfied with the shorter OAL and you know it will work with the gun, you can shorten them, albeit since they are coated it will cut the coating, no big whoop you will get a little leading which can be easily remedied by shooting some copper jacketed bullets, or Flitz and elbow grease.
w231 is the pretty twin of WST great for 40 not so much for 9 mm. The best powder I found for minor 9 mm is N320, somewhere around 3.2gr with your coated bullet should put you in the minor pf. That said in these days it is more what you can get than what you want to shoot. I never liked 147gr felt sluggish, 135gr coated is my favorite for minor 9, but you shoot what you can get now 115gr FMJ for now, I bought enough the mailman hates me now.
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SVI Infinity have one, and yes the slide is like on ball bearings. It feels just as good as the one Bennie Hill at Triangle did for me.
Known Bennie and his work for 20 years, his guns run and they hold up, great gun at a good price, lots of bang for the buck.
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When I had a shorty I carried the lens wipes that they sell at the grocery store, you know 100 or so for $3.00, and cleaned my lens after every stage. Sold the shorty still carry the wipes, just go more stages between cleaning. AA7 caused more debris than Silhouette. My glock open gun gets dirty just about the same as the STI's. I don't waste any energy cleaning any thing other than the center of the lens. After more than a decade of using the wipes the lens are still clear. If I were to pull out a Qtip my friends would call me OCD. I'm a fan of rainX on my truck windshield, but I use those 20 for $1.00 shower caps when shooting a match in the rain, just pull it off at make ready.
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I'd say the biggest factor is the gun you are shooting it in. Example - At a match I dropped a loaded 9 major round on the ground, another shooter picked it up. He was shooting a plastic gun, you know one of those tupperware specials, long story short on the next stage we spent 20 minutes looking for the trigger parts to his gun.
A real answer could only come when you provide the current OAL the powder used and the amount, along with the bullet type and weight.
When I was shooting 200 grain 40 over Clays the OAL was critical, and yes I blew up a few cases, then got smart and went to 185gr and a different powder. 9 mm is pretty darn tuff as proven by 9 major, on a cold morning at the LA Gator match I won the crono stage at 189 pf. I didn't shoot well till it warmed up later in the day. Depending on the powder even the temp can play hell on pressure.
I've had to do the same thing before, my Hornady L&L makes it easy, just remove the powder measure and the sizing die and run them thru. The rounds fit the SIG but stuck in the CZ.
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Posted · Edited by CocoBolo
Eric they shoot pretty well, that said make sure you don't shave the coating, a little more bell, and just enough crimp to hold it in place. If you shave the coating it will deposit lead in barrel, if you crimp to much they tumble.
I bought a case of MonkeyBrassBullets they are coated 125gr, loaded a sample batch just have not tested them yet. Ordered on Monday arrived on Friday about 6 cents each.