barrysuperhawk

Ok, CMMG just taught me that the 590's cyl bore just doesent cut it. So I need choke my shotgun. Obviously, one choice would be to send my barrel somewhere to get it tapped and set up for chokes, but it seems choke tube brands and styles are like world religions, and I know bupkis about them. I am not particular about the brand, but they need to be extended so I can swap them without tools, and either black or parkerized. I would want to buy up to 4 tubes at the time, say an open cyl or imp cyl, a rifled tube for slugs, a Full and a really tight turkey style choke, so that may affect my selection of brand.. I would also need to decide on a gunsmith, because I wouldn't trust any local guys to even do this. A second choice would be to buy a new bbl, but despite the fact I have found pictures of them, and forum posts of people claming to own a choked 590, I havent found a place to buy them yet. So, help?

Nope, for my $$ if any RO was unliked, it was Stage 8 and the super strict scoring of the pistol target, to be contrasted with Stage 6's interpretation of the exact same targets and presumably the same RO breifing from Flood. Granted, the extra few penalty seconds did not materially alter my final score for the entire match, but it was a very frustrating way to start a match especially when combined with a @@%#$ spinner that refused to move for my CYL bore shotgun, I actually was less frustrated by my inability to hit those #@!$ %#@$ 190mph clay birds on 9... All of these annoyances are part of the game, and I want to be clear that I too, am whining about a minor thing, not anything significant. I am glad the ridiculus penalties for those of us that can't seem to zero our rifles properly went away, and on the subject of targets that you couldn't see, that's just a hazard of natural terrain stages. My big failure on not being able to see targets came on Stage 5 of all things, because every time I missed at the 300 yard targets, my big .308 bullets would kick a HUGE cloud of dust. Believe it or not, I was WISHING for rain at that point...

No rain, Excellent stages [we won't mention a certain @%$#@% spinning target], Professional RO's and an awesome facility that gets better every year. Thanks to the Staff and RO's, and especially for a certain Loud RO that convinced Ken that Simple is better. I think this is my favorite match of the year.

Depending on which day is your early day, you might be able to squadjump either Friday or Saturday and shoot through with another squad, but Mr Flood and the affected squad would have to OK it, I assume.

On the road in about an hour!! See Y'all there!

LOL, you got me, that's for an Eotech, I own a Vortex SPARC, and need a Quick release for it... So, after not finding what I wanted, I made my own: I am AXCLR8 on M14 forum. I decided I wanted a quickly removable, super low mount, red dot for my M1A. The plan was for the red dot for fast and close, and then to be able to ditch it and use the irons for range, without losing zero when I reinstall. I am a big fan of Vortex, so the SPRC was a no-brainer. Forgive the focus, it's hard to tell on my phone.. I started with the the Brugger and Thromet LRP Quick Release conversion for Aimpoint Micro. Which seems like a wonderful idea, except it does not fit. The Quick Release plate is much larger than the slot in the [Vortex] mount. I was under the impression that AP micro mounts were all compatible with the SPRC, but apparently that does not extend to individual mount parts. Just to be clear, there's no fault on Vortex whatsoever, I am the one trying to adapt unsuitable parts. Anyway, the way that's supposed to work is the lever goes opposite of the moveable foot, secured by the knurled nut. [The picture shows the foot upside down] What I did was to countersink the knurled nut about 1/2 way into the opposite side of the mount, drill out the threads on the foot, and thread the tension bolt in from the opposite side. I epoxied the knurled nut in place, so now all of the moving parts are on one side. I also was having trouble with return to zero because the throw lever [steel] was eating into the foot [Aluminum]. A 4mm steel washer [last pic] solved that. Once I added the washer, it returns to zero as long as I am careful and consistant, and it is .250 lower than the Larue mount

Wow, there seems to be a difference of opinion, poll added....

I need to buy some new basepads. I finally retired the bakers dozen of G17 mags I have been using for 15 or so years in favor of some new G17 mags, so now I need some basepads. Back when I put the old mags togeather, Glock +2's and Scheerer(sp) +2's were the only game in town. The Glock +2's were indestructable and worked well, the scheerers, not so much, but with Wolf XP springs and a little sanding they worked fine. Now I peruse Brownells and Google, and there are dozen's of places that make G17 basepads, heck Magpul even makes ranger plates for them! For my other guns, I have my favorites, AGP for my XD, and Dawson for my Para P14 - Grams basepads for the para are cool too, but they were 2x the price of the Dawsons. The only ones I never liked for my P14 were Arredondo. I spent more time jacking around with the 2 I had trying to make them reliable, I finally gave up and went back to a factory +1. I shoot both open and limited Glocks, and I already have a Taylor Freelance +10 as my "big stick" for open. Price is a small part of the equation because I am going to be buying 15 of them, and as I remember from when I was shooting the PARA, there were some kits that were north of $50 each. Also, I would like kits that include springs or that work with Wolf+10% springs and factory followers. So, who makes the best combination of price and reliability for G17 mags now?

I have discovered that I shoot better with hooded rear sights, and have decided to put one on my M1A [18" Scout Squad]. I saw a NM hooded rear in Brownells and ordered it without researching the process, so I didn't realize #1 that the main purpose for the NM rear was the 1/2 minute adjustment, and that NM rears require fitting to even install. So, before I start grinding on stuff, is there an easier way to a hooded rear on a M1A? I don't need the 1/2 minute adjustment, I just want the hood. I remember reading about someone tapping a standard rear and screwing in the hood from an AR, but I can't seem to find where I read that at. So, what is the simplest way to a hooded rear sight on a M1A?

I have a buddy that shoots a 20ga Franchi and does pretty well. The biggest thing about shotgun is how fast can you load it, and will it cycle light loads. An alternative might be to get an 1100 in 12 ga and take up shotshell loading. Shooting them back to back, my 1100 shoots just as soft as his 20ga franchi when I use light handloads or light AA's...

Another data point, I had a AP4 that would do the same thing when I tried to run it dry [little or no lube]. I tried everything, I spun a chamber brush in a drill, I futzed with the gas, swapped ammo, the whole mess, but what worked is running my gun dripping wet with the lube no heaver than motor oil [no grease]. I now have 2 DPMS and a Bushmaster and they all run flawlesly when I keep them wet [as in a shot of remoil or CLP before every stage, on the bolt and carrier.] I am not saying that the other solutions are wrong, but that is what worked for me in my guns.

While I agree with your belief that we should stick together; I don't think writing glowing reviews of one's own products and customer service without full disclosure is something we should turn a blind eye towards. This is where we disagree. You seem to be taking the attitude that this is somehow less than honorable, but a fairly discrete forum post that serves the purpose of self promotion is not dishonest. He would still surely provide a valuable product to whomever his customer regardless of how the customer found out about him. Considering I think that my earlier assertion about him comming out and positing "I sell XXX" might actually be against the rules outside the marketplace, I think what he posted was entirely appropriate. Actualy, I find your determination to bust him out like he was doing something dishonest very distasteful. You say you believe we should stick togeather, yet you insist on being the tattletale. To me, *that* is worse than anything he did. Don't worry, if worse comes to worse, and the world ends, I am sure you could have a fruitful career as an informer to the overlords...

What's the problem, that he didn't identify himself? If he would have said "I make xxx" someone else would have bagged on him. We gun owners have a really bad habit of eating our own at the slightest provocation. We should stop doing that, and encourage any small pro-gun business regardless of whether we believe the owner is a nice guy or a jerk. The opposition sticks togeather like that, we need to to. Back on Topic, www.knifekits.com sells every little piece and part you might need to make your own. This guy has some good videos and has helped me with my own projects.

Larry, I don't spend enough time here to know whom you represent, but if you do have everything in stock, please either post up or Email me and let me know where I am looking....

Whats the difference? You have to claim out of state purchases at the end of the year anyway? The difference is they don't have everything... So, what, exactly did you add to this thread? Back on topic, so the QLS should bolt up to the Holsters, but won't fit the belt correctly? Has anyone stress tested these to tell if the QLS is *that* much stronger?

It seemed silly to add another topic on what is essentially the same subject, so here's question #2: I intend to run both Safariland and BladeTech holsters on this rig, do I need to go with the QLS holster rig or will the ELS clips be sufficient? I run a 6004 with retention at most 3 gun matches because it seems I am always doing more with a holstered pistol than I have ever done during a USPSA match, and I like the security of never having to worry about dropping a pistol because I snagged it on something and pulled it out of a holster. I have also fallen during a match and had the 6004 be the only reason I didn't end up on my face because it caught on a railing, so I do "test" it upon occasion. OTOH, I am not LEO and will never be subject to a snatch attempt or any of the "real" purposes of retention holsters. So, my above plan was predicated on adapting my holsters to the ELS along with the mag pouches, but if the ELS isn't up to the same level of bashing at the QLS, I would hate to find out by running past a post and ripping my whole holster off my belt because I am clumsy..

I originally posted this to be funny, I mean, "Panic Buying" for belts? The unfortunate part is it is true. Optics Planet is also a no-go because they are in Illinois and want to charge me sales tax in addition to shipping as well as not having everything. Speedshooter doesen't carry the .308 pouches, Midway carries everything but half of it's on backorder... I indended this to be a simple go online, order stuff and move on with my day... but here I am, a day later and no closer to having a rig.

Ok, I spent most of the day surfing around for ELS parts to put togeather a new competition belt. My problem is that I keep finding shops that only have some of the parts in stock, but I have not found a single source yet that has every part in stock and available. I thought I was being simple wanting the inner and outer belts, 4 rifle pouches, 8 of the belt side brackets and 16 of the pouch/holster side brackets [minus if I can get any of the rifle pouches with them already installed]...but every site I go to is either out of something or flat doesen't carry it. What gives? This shouldn't be that hard. Safarilands website seems to have everything in stock, but it has the warning that it wil be 2-3 weeks before they even *process* the order, and I was hoping to have things in hand before CMMG... Part of the reason I am doing this is to end up with 1 belt that I can re-configure for the different matches I shoot. I have 4 different pistols I use, between USPSA and 3 Gun, and I also switch between an AR in small club matches to a .308/heavy metal rig for the bigger ones, so I need mag pouches for both. Right now I just use TecLocks on a regular leather belt, but that is not ideal. Edit: It seemed silly to add another topic on what is essentially the same subject, so here's question #2: I intend to run both Safariland and BladeTech holsters on this rig, do I need to go with the QLS holster rig or will the ELS clips be sufficient? I run a 6004 with retention at most 3 gun matches because it seems I am always doing more with a holstered pistol than I have ever done during a USPSA match, and I like the security of never having to worry about dropping a pistol because I snagged it on something and pulled it out of a holster. I have also fallen during a match and had the 6004 be the only reason I didn't end up on my face because it caught on a railing, so I do "test" it upon occasion. OTOH, I am not LEO and will never be subject to a snatch attempt or any of the "real" purposes of retention holsters. So, my above plan was predicated on adapting my holsters to the ELS along with the mag pouches, but if the ELS isn't up to the same level of bashing at the QLS, I would hate to find out by running past a post and ripping my whole holster off my belt because I am clumsy..

I think I wasn't clear in my description. Here's what the part I call the hood looks like: This is what it looks like without the hood. I have a 1911, 2 Glock, and a SIG 6004. I am actually selling the SIG version to fund the purchase of one to fit an XD..

BladeTec makes .308 Magpouches, Brownells has them. It's also ridiculusly easy to heat up some kydex and make your own...

I have been running 6004's for several years, for several guns, with a few modifications. First, I took the hood off the one new 6004 I have, so it's only the thumb break part. Second, all of mine came with a semi-circle of additional material on the back of the thumb break. I carefully cut that part off flush. Next, I epoxied a piece of skateboard tape to the top of the thumb break, from the thumb shelf to the far side [2" worth]. Last, I shortened up the drop, removed the top elastic strap, and stuck a thin piece of aluminum between the velcro on the drop. That lets me add a slight angle to the holster or to have it stay where I put it. I also adjust the tension screw to the loose end of the adjustment and loctite it. When I do my part I run about the same draw times as out of a tight blade-tech or fobus, especially from surrender. PM or Email be if anyone wants pix...

The "local dealers" with the "GOOD GI Surplus" mags are what got me into this, apparently I SUCK at discerning GI from Chicom, even after having read the M14forum.com magazine reference... I'll probably just break down and buy or trade for some CMI 20's. Damn this is getting to be an expensive experement...

Nope, I suspect they are Chicom, but only a couple have any markings at all. It doesen't matter, because they are all wonky in my gun...least the 20's I have. I have 2 SA and 6 or 7 "other" mags. The SA mags have a much larger locking plate, and are noticibly harder to seat, but are tighter. The chicoms [or whatever they are seat much easier but do move a bit and have noticibly weaker springs. I suppose I could have looked up the rules myself... I wonder if I could talk Kirk into changing the wording of the rules...LOL I bet it would be cheaper....

Just a quick question to get some opinions: I am planning on Running the EEM1A this year in Heavy Metal, but so far the only really reliable mags I have come up with have been Checkmate 25 rounders. All of the 20's I have bought do wierd things like popping the last round out loose, not seating right, or not staying seated, etc. Even the 2 Factory Springfield mags aren't 100% so far. The problem, obviously is that the rule for HM is 20 rounds. Now, it shouldn't be any real issue to download to 20, heck, just put one box of 20 per mag and I'm golden, right? The problem is that I have been told that 10 round mags downloaded to 8 are not kosher for Heavy Metal that specifies 8 round mags, because they stick out further and could be considered an advantage for manipulation. Granted other matches allow 10 rounders, or even non singlestacks, in HM but that's not the point. If I choose my gear to comply with the most restrictive set of rules, then when I go somewhere that is more lenient, it's a bonus Now, I don't need to debate the accuracy or intent of that statement here, the RO said it, I switched to natural 8 rounders, no harm, no foul. What I am concerned with is having the same type of rulesmanship applied to my rifle mags. Unfortunately, I have already spent way more cash on this little project than I intended, so just buying a dozen checkmate 20 rounders probably isn't going to be in the cards, and that assumes the Checkmate 20's are as reliable as I have verified the 25's are. So, I have a quandry. Do I try to come up with some manner of "verification" for roundcount [think FAL style witness holes] or some method of "blocking" the mag to 20 rounds [and take a chance on compromising otherwise reliable mags] or something else? I suspect I am overthinking this, but then Open class isn't very forgiving of HM equipment if a RO or MD disagrees...