Jeffdg

I have a 38 super Witness Gold Team - I'm looking for a 9mm hybrid barrel to make it a 9mm open gun. It does not appear that EAA carries these... does anyone know a source for a 9mm open barrel (even just the comp is fine... the hybrid seems a bit 'over' compensated) for the Witness Gold Team? Thanks!

Thanks for the info - I see the IFP on Montana Gold's webpage - but I'm not familiar with that bullet. I'm about to make a purchase and was leaning toward the 124 RN CMJ. What is it you like so much about the IFP? And what were the feed ramp issues you had? Also, once I use up my VV 3N38, was thinking of switching to N350. Not that it matters too much. Just seems to be more data on the N350.

I could use an answer to this question as well.... but here's what I've learned so far. For my 38 Super Gold Team: I recently used a 135gr FMJ w/8.7 gr of VV 3N38, 1.260" and ended with about 1150 fps which led to a PF = 155. So I have a ways to go myself. I have a couple tenths I could push the load but it's becoming pretty clear that those ports really bleed off the pressure before the bullet gets to full velocity. If anyone could chime in with a loading philosophy with the Gold Team set up, that'd be most helpful! For instance, given the effectively short barrel (given the placement of the ports), ought one gravitate toward a heavier bullet (e.g., 147gr) with a faster powder?? Or would a 124 gr bullet and a slower powder win out somehow??

A few threads on the Versa Max by Remington...mostly talking about its existence. While I realize it's a new gun so it may not be a great choice for 3-gun quite yet, I'm wondering if there are accessories available to "mod" the gun, specifically mag tubes and such. Thanks, Jeff

Indeed - I have found several threads on one of those, or sort of comparing two of the three (which quickly gets off track) or much more often one of the three and various other brands/models - so I'm looking for a some focused input related to the three red-dot sights specifically slide mounted for the three brands/models listed. I'm looking to see direct comparisons among the three (there is a thread where someone posted pictures of the STS and the DeltaPoint - great start!) Thanks! By way of example, or at least a potential jump starter since what I'm providing are not direct comparisons, are two reviews, one from Amazon for the DeltaPoint (first) and one from OpticsPlanet for the Docter sight (second). Of course, I can neither agree nor disagree with these statements: The DeltaPoint: First the good news: - The sight is extremely light, but very solidly and robustly built. - The lens is completely clear, none of that greenish or yellowish cast that some red dots have. - It turns off by itself after five minutes of inactivity, but springs instantly to life when you pick it up. - The intensity of the dot varies according to light conditions, though I have yet to notice much difference - Settings are retained by a pair of set screws, so they presumably will not change due to recoil and handling. Now the less good news: - Elevation and windage are adjusted by turning tiny little screws (wrench provided.) The recesses are so shallow it's often difficult to tell when the wrench has purchase. - There are no adjustment clicks. You have to eyeball the adjustment using the little lines radiating away from the screw recesses. Since each line moves the dot 7.5 MOA, it is difficult to adjust it precisely and easy to overcompensate. A further difficulty is that the screws provide very little resistance and you sometimes can't tell if the wrench is gripping, as noted above. - The set screws, though theoretically an advantage, have to be loosened then tightened after each adjustment, which makes for a pretty tedious sight in procedure. The Docter sight (from Opticsplanet): Pros: Light & small Cons: Breaks easily, screw heads strip easily, time consuming to adjust, poor customer service Would recommend: no A potentially great sight that has been poorly implemented and is lacking in product support. I have four that I have used for Bullseye shooting light target loads at a 50ft range. One had a solder weld break under warranty after a couple months use on a target 45. The Dr Sight US repair center said it would take a couple weeks. After a dozen calls and continual responses saying it would be sent next week to next day it finally arrived about 5 months later. Another that I've had on a target 22 for a couple years just died for some unknown reason. The Parallax free claims to 40 yards are not true and all four have noticeable parallax. The mounting screws on all four sights come loose easily until you use the mild blue loc-tite and can still eventually work loose shooting light loaded 45's. Unfortunately the mounting screw's Allen head holes are tiny and strip easily when mild loc-tite is used to hold them. Despite being careful I've had to have a gunsmith drill out the screws on four occasions when I've needed to remove them to change batteries/solve problems. To be safe you should replace the screws each time your remove the sight; the problem is the correct screws are almost impossible to find/obtain and expensive. Elevation and windage adjustment are not the click type and are difficult to adjust quickly and precisely and it requires repeatedly unlocking the adjustment screws, adjusting sights, tightening the lock screws, checking shot placement and repeating this over and over until correctly aligned for the distance you are shooting at. Sights also need slight readjustment after removing them to replace the battery. The brightness of the dot is automatically adjusted to exterior lighting however the automatic adjustment often is not ideal and can not be readjusted manually; often at an indoor range the dot is too dim and hard to pick out. With some guns the brass regularly hits the front lens but this probably happens with all brands of this style of sight. Special magnetized batteries are required for reliability otherwise the recoil can loosen them and cause intermittent loss of contact causing the red dot to disappear at inconvenient times; slapping and shaking your gun in the middle of a relay is not conducive to good shooting.

Hello - I see there's a bit of discussion on each of the sights mentioned, namely the DeltaPoint, the C-More STS, and the Docter for slide mounted sight - but I have yet to see comparison among the three. I've ruled out the JPoint. I'm interested in all aspects - cost (though not a major factor for me in this application), product features/quality/longevity, company (customer service/warranty/accessibility), use (fit/finish/red-dot clarity/optics/battery changing/effectiveness of features...) I'm intending doing a slide mounted red-dot for my Witness Limited in 38 Super I'm converting to open class. (Will any of the 11 DeltaPoint's mounts mount to a Witness rear sight?) Thanks!

Most of my shoots have been at local (non IPSC) clubs, so my PF is about 160 (vel < 900 fps). These are pretty light, low-recoil loads.

Hi Pete, I have the Witness Limited .40 S&W. Love it, love it. Points beautifully. Worked beautifully out of the box. I shot <1000 rounds of factory and about 3000 (1.160") reloads with no issues (see later for hi-cap mag nuance). You can get mags from EAA in FL or from Henning Walgren. For the .40 - he has several versions. I currently have 3 18-round mags (all EAA h/w) and 3 21-round mags (EAA mag body, Henning basepad and Grams spring and follower). The only issue with the 21 round mags is that you'll probably want to resize the entire case to eliminate any nose dive possibility. I just started using the hi-cap mags and there were a couple issues if I didn't resize the entire case (mind you, I'll pick up any brass that says .40 S&W on it... those glock-fired rounds really can mess things up with that bulge). As far as getting the mags... I called Henning, and had them two days later. Boom! To use the 21 round mags on a reload without downloading 1 rounds, some guys use an undersize die in their full-case resizer. Here are a couple links for you on the full-case resizing, including using the undersize die: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...p;mode=threaded http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...36&hl=gizmo I fully resize the case with a normal resizer; really makes the brass a consistent size and beautiful feeding. So, as such, I download my 21 rounders for reloads... for the time being. BTW, if you are into really customizing your gun, Henning has a lot of ways to do it... so far my gun is bone "stock" except for the mags. Enjoy! -Jeff

Hello! I have a EAA (Tanfoglio) Witness Limited .40 S&W in which I have about 3000 reloaded (flawless) rounds with the following recipe: 5.1 gr AA#2 180 Gr FMJ (Montana Gold) OAL = 1.160" Fed primer After a great shoot today, I was cleaning the gun and noticed some ridges on the barrel. I could spend quite a bit of time trying to describe what it is, but you'll see it in the picture. I cropped it to make the file size smaller, so the front of the barrel proceeds to the right of the picture. It's not entirely obvious in the picture, but it's only happening on the side of the barrel featured in the pic; if I turned it over, the barrel looks 'normal'. Please advise on what is causing this (before it gets any worse!). One of my thoughts is it could be a mismatch between the load and mag spring. This recipe was advertised as a pretty light load, and the recoil speaks to this, very little snap. Other than that, I'm clueless. The fun has been functioning flawlessly, so it's a bit of a mystery. The limiteds come with 3 springs - one installed and two with specified parameters. Does anyone know which is in the gun (hard to know if changing it will make it stiffer to less stiff)? Thank you for the help!!!

do you think the expander is out of adjustment then? The full case resizer is a standalone process since the case has to pass through the entire device. After the case is fully resized, I then put each case through all the standard dies, including the resizer (as it doubles as a decapper), expander...etc.

hello - I'm reloading a .40 S&W with a Hornady LNL reloader and their super duper "we're awesome you'll never need another" Hornady die set. I'm using Montana Gold 180 gr FMJ bullets. My current load OAL = 1.160". The cool part is I haven't had a jam in 3000 rounds of my reloads (Witness Limited w/18 rounds mags...), unfortunately, though, the best crimp I could get (and it's mediocre) when the die is just about touching the shell plate when the arm is pulled all the way down. But it worked so on I went. Recently, I bought four 21 round mags from Henning and then full case resizer, which, as stock, gets the shell around .423" external diameter at its widest point. Tonight I loaded about 30 full-length sized shells after resizing them (I just got it the Gizmo today)... oddly enough three of my rounds (10%) had crimps so loose I could push the bullet into the shell. Not good! First, I'm not sure why this would change my crimp (I've made no adjustments to this) - they were fairly robust before. Second, I'm unsure how to improve my crimps with the Hornady die... am I missing something? The instructions that came with the die set wasn't terribly descriptive; I have a feeling I'm missing something rather simple. Thanks for the help! -Jeff

replying to the original post re: the recipe. I think I'm missing a point here - if the Gizmo resizes the case to .415, why is the EGW undersize die needed? The standard resizing die will be used simply to remove the primer, and won't actually resize anything so long as it has passed through the Gizmo? As I read it, the EGW seems redundant - so I must be missing a point here - can you help clear up my brain fog? Thanks, Jeff

I understand what you are saying - there is a lot of data out there, but mostly for lead or JHP. I have found that the IPSC load guide has data for FMJ 180 gr, which is helpful. From my read, Accurate has no info for a 180 Gr. FMJ (...meaning a non-hollowpoint bullet). I have data from multiple websites (powder mfrs, etc), but again, 180 Gr. FMJ data is rather sparse - unless you are saying it is okay to equate JHP with FMJ... is that true? ... because my understanding is that due to the varying dimensions of different brands of HPs, including the Hornady XTPs, that the measured OAL will result in a rather variable internal volume compared to a FMJ. There's also data for Ranier bullets, but Ranier instructs that their recipes are more in line with lead data. I should note that I didn't make this recipe up! Thanks for the input!

Okay - I'm using what I think are safe loads - though it's darn near impossible to find good load data for .40 S&W w/180 gr FMJ. Some of these loads have less recoil than factory ammo (e.g. Winchester 165 Gr bullet). So, the picture shows three loads (left three columns) and new reloads (right column) for primer comparison. I'm new to all this reloading and want to be sure I am not over (or under for that matter) loading. The loads are as follows from leftmost column to right: all using 180 Gr. FMJ bullets and Winchester primers. 1. 4.6 gr AA#2 with an OAL=1.125" 2. 4.9 gr AA#2 with an OAL=1.125" 3. 5.2 gr AA#2 with an OAL=1.160" So, what do you think, are these flattened? ....If so, do you have suggested recipes for this (same bullet... but can use different powder if need be!). Thank you!!

Hello- I am reloading .40 S&W with 180gr FMJ bullets and I have AA#2 powder (& WSP primer) Does anyone have any good recipes for this (need powder amounts and OAL). There seems to be plenty of data out there for (J)HP bullets (e.g. Hornady XTP calls for 5.0 gr starting and a max 5.6 gr for AA#2), but I'm using FMJ... is there at translation??? My search didn't turn anything up on this combination. Also: feel free to suggest other recipes with different powders but the SAME BULLET! Thank you!!!