Tom S.
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Posts posted by Tom S.
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My guide to the RF-100:
Cleanliness is a must. Compressed air and a microfiber cloth are your friends. Even if it looks clean, clean it before each use or after 1k primers, whichever comes first.
Level - level - level. It may not have to be perfectly level to work but it must be consistent, so make sure it is level to begin with, and check it periodically. If it is on your reloading bench, vibration from your press(s) can make it move and unless your bench is made of granite, the level could change so check it!
Use one brand of primers. Primers vary and if yo switch brands after getting the RF-100 to work with one brand, you are asking for problems. In times of primer scarcity this can be difficult but either consider swapping for your preferred brand or buy 100k of whatever brand you can get and set the RF-100 for those. Just be forewarned, some brands are notorious for causing problems, so avoid them.
One size primer only. Switching from large to small or vice-versa is an invitation for problems. If you can't afford to have one RF-100 for each, try to minimize changes by running as many of one size at a session as possible.Avoid using while reloading. Unless your RF-100 is set up on a bench/table separate from your reloader, avoid using it while reloading or at the least, cease reloading operations when using. If possible, buy extra primer tubes and load them all before starting the reloading process.
Learn how to adjust. Dillon has excellent instructions and there are several tips and pointers given on this board. Most are not rocket science, just common sense. Only make one change/adjustment at a time.
While this sounds like a lot of screwing around, it really isn't if you pay attention to the issue of consistency. Once you eliminate variables like switching brands, about all you need to do once you get it dialed in is periodic cleaning and checking level. Also be aware that not every upside down primer occurs from the RF-100. Careless loading of the priming station (primer tube not seated tightly against the top of the primer magazine) as well as failing to keep the primer mechanism clean and properly functioning can cause them too.
The PAL system works good but requires more user interface during use. However, even the PAL unit should be cleaned every 1k or so to prevent problems. The RF-100 allows you to dump in the primers, turn it on and go do something else (like get the next primer tube ready). -
Yeah, I'm a little late but.... make sure your scale is calibrated when you start and if you notice drift in the weights as you reload, check the scale. This is especially true if using an electronic scale. They can be affected by fluorescent lights, air currents, etc.
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On 6/12/2023 at 9:30 AM, m700 said:
Dont we all
Maybe... but if you try to lube me up, there's gonna be trouble!
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My shoulder is north of 73 years old and working fine...
Looks like the price has come down however, now $165.
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On 3/25/2023 at 6:45 PM, TONY BARONE said:
Brownells has #400 CCI primers in stock.
Not a great price but if you need them, they got them:
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So what happened to Smitty79 - the OP? Did he try to pound it out and it blew up or what????
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The person(s) who thought small primer 45 cases were a good idea should be beaten and shot. I either throw the small primer cases out or trade/give them away. Life is too short to deal with that crap.
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Don't be vague. Send them a list of the parts you need to replace and pictures if they apply. If a part is worn or defective, they will replace it, but don't expect them to send you a bunch of parts based upon your say so. You may need to send them the parts for verification.
BTW I don't know if the no BS warranty applies to second or third owners but it seems to have been Dillon's policy in the past not to distinguish between the two.
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Being consistent with your operating method will go along way towards getting consistent powder measurements. Same stroke, same speed, full to the stops up and down. I have used HS6 and while it's not the best metering powder, it should hold the .01 tolerance.
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Dillon products come with manuals. Read them - they are your friend!
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Interesting, just don't know if it's $190 worth of interesting...
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3 hours ago, AHI said:
large #20063- $43.00
Small #20062- $43.00
They are hidden quite well.
Dillon has hidden a lot of stuff on their website since re-doing it! I even tried searching and came up empty. Nice work!
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On 7/19/2022 at 6:44 AM, lgh said:
Thanks Modoc. I just discovered Inline Fabrication has a plate system that allows one to swap out presses onto a single base. I might go that route since it minimizes the footprint.
The Inline Fabrication mounting system is a well thought out, well executed product. I have/use it for multiple items. I have been i contact with them about devising a mount for the Frankfort Arsenal Bullet Puller as I do not have room to mount one to a wall. If others are looking for a similar solution, please let them know!
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They are not available to my knowledge. Even if they were, by the time you were done screwing around figuring out what size hole was needed (not to mention the risk of drilling too large and thus scrapping the bar), you would probably be better off buying an extra standard one, setting it for what you want, mark it accordingly and move on.
EDIT: Or maybe not! Looking at Dillon's site, it does not look like they sell the bars individually any more.
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When it comes to crawly things, Harbor Freight has a solution:
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Lee makes some great products. Their progressive presses are not among that group. I would recommend Lee dies or their Turret press in a heart beat but I strongly advise against buying any of their progressive presses. For every person who posts they have made a "billion rounds" on a Lee progressive you will find dozens who say they tried and gave up in favor of another brand, usually Dillon.
One factor people often do not consider when asking the question of Lee vs Dillon is the resale value. Buy the Dillon, use it for 20 years and provided you do the required maintenance, you will be able to sell the equipment for more than you paid for it simply due to inflation and Dillon's durability factor. You will never be able to do that with a Lee progressive. If you need to postpone buying a Dillon press because of cost, so be it. The wait will be worth it in the long run.
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On 6/29/2022 at 11:55 PM, Miranda said:
hi johnnymazz,
I believe it is possible for a 650 to go at 800 rounds a minute.
miranda
I'd like to see that - but from a distance!
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On 6/18/2022 at 1:40 PM, dannyd said:
It's more about quality of the ammunition than savings money. I have loaded 191,175 rounds in 33 years and have never saved any money.
Reloading typically isn't about saving money, it's about being able to shoot a lot more for the same amount of money.
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3 hours ago, Youngeyes said:
I had that problem so I bought a Labradar. Expensive as hell but well worth it just for the ease of use. No setting up down range.
I have thought about it numerous times!
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On 5/28/2022 at 9:35 AM, Youngeyes said:
Are you saying that there are scratches are on your beech face, and were transferred to the primer? They look like gouges to me. Were there any other primers that looked that way? Did you chrono the loads? I also found an article about 244. https://www.handloadermagazine.com/propellant-profiles-9
Yes, if you look closely at the case on the left in the 12 o'clock position you can see the same scratches but they are much less pronounced. Although I have a chronograph, I didn't use it for this run because I was at a public range and set up is a PITA.
Thanks for posting the Handloader link. Pretty happy that their 5.5 grain post corresponds well with my 5.4 finding.
Farmer's post is interesting. I read just yesterday about a fellow who was experiencing an issue with a load he had used for years. He suddenly started having a specific brand (sorry I don't remember which) show signs of extreme pressure so he sent some of the cases into the magazine writer for examination. The writer determined all the primer flash holes were considerably over sized, thus increasing the pressure. I'm not saying that was the cause in Farmer's example. Rather there are many things that can influence pressure besides the powder charge itself. In Farmer's example, it could be a number of things: as stated an over size flash hole, a loose primer pocket, a deep seated bullet (either at loading or from setback), or a variance in bullet weight, or case capacity. Or a combination of more than one of the mentioned items.
Wolfe publishing produced an interesting book titled Firearm Pressure Factors that provide interesting reading on the topic. My copy is dated 1990 and was updated in 2006 but has since been discontinued. It's available on Amazon but outrageously priced.
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Apparently I jinxed myself. Loading 45's yesterday and had 3 upside down cases in 500 rounds. Didn't piss me off near as much as the stupid Federal small primer cases though. I hope whoever at Federal came up with that stupid idea gets monkey pox.
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You do have to be cautious about using primers as indicators of load pressures even though it was an accepted method 50+ years ago. There are so many variables that can cause them to give false readings. In this instance, although the cases were mixed, everything else was carefully monitored to be as consistent as possible.
I think a slight blurriness or lighting in the photo is causing the left case to look less rounded. In reality, they are nearly indistinguishable in that regard.
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18 hours ago, Farmer said:
Whatever believe what you want.
WTF? Who pissed in your Wheaties?
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2 hours ago, Farmer said:
So pretty much the middle of the load works in the 45 as I’ve found in the other calibers. Could be the angle but your red marked case looks like the lighter load to me. But either one looks great.
The most telling indicator are the scratches that appear so clear on the primer of the red case but are less distinct on the blue case. That is due to the extra pressure pushing the primer back harder against the breech face and thus transferring the scratches that appear on the breech face more clearly.
Cleaning after loading
in General Reloading
Posted
Seems like this question gets asked at least once a year by people to
lazyerr I meant busy to search (sorry OP). Tumbling after loading has no effect on the rounds. As pointed out, hollow points can be a pita. Depending on the size of the opening, you might get by using corn cob media instead of crushed walnut shells, or simply do them by hand using a rag and denatured alcohol.