Flashman

I am thinking about supplementing IDPA and steel matches, possibly USPSA, with PCC. The AR style choices are a bit overwhelming, and, to be frank mostly expensive, and to some degree if one builds or assembles a rifle, a little risky in terms functionality and reliability. Someone in a similar thread recommended the Ruger PC Carbine at least as a starter platform. Reliable, durable and relatively inexpensive (and uses the same Glock mags). My question is this. With the model that has the aluminum free floated hand guard, and using a red dot or similar sight (at normal height) is it possible to use the thumb over the hand guard grip without interfering with the sight picture as is done with AR's?

I've been down this road several times. Check ammo first since it is usually the number one cause of such problems, but if ruled out, and the striker channel is clean, the striker liner is often the culprit.

Starting late Spring of 2018, I started checking every round reloaded which includes gauging every loaded round, feeling the seated primer as well as visually inspecting it.

Last year, my three primary practice and competition guns experienced problems with light strikes. To make a very long and boring story short, coincidentally (or fortuitously) between December 2017 and January 2018, a 617 22 commenced a pattern of light strikes that became progressively worse, a GP100 in 38 Special experienced a similar pattern but with my handloads using Winchester primers, and lastly, a Glock 19.4 also started doing so with Winchester primers. The 617 was returned to S&W four times before it was fixed. It appeared the cylinder gap was reduced and cylinder play (end shake?) was greatly reduced and tightened up. No problems after the final repair. This firearm had about 15,000 or 17,000 rounds (my recollection without finding and checking the log) before it became a problem. Throughout its life there may have been a handful of failures to ignite but it is a 22 and 22 ammo can sometimes be finicky in my experience. The GP100 had close to 7500 rounds and no prior light strikes. One trip to the factory, and it came back with a very tight cylinder (again, end shake) and was very sensitive to primers not fully seated initially (i.e., cylinder very tight and could bind). No further light strike problems. The gun is probably better than it was new--at least in terms of shootability. I don't believe there had ever been a light strike previously. The G19 had 7000 rounds when it started acting up. In addition to my hand loads, there were a couple of Winchester White Box light strikes. The recoil spring was changed at 5000 rounds. Upon recommendation from a Glock armorer after the light strikes became more common, the striker plunger tube was cleaned several times and a new striker spring installed. It was OK for about 1000 rounds and then started light striking again at an increasing rating. The striker plunger tube was thoroughly cleaned again but didn't change the increasing rate of light strikes. I finally returned it under warranty for a new gun. I later checked the shooting log and noted there were about two light strikes per 1000 rounds prior to the increasing light strike problems at 7000 rounds. The new G19.4 worked perfectly until two days ago. At round 400 there was a light strike on a hand load. There was nothing obvious that showed the primer was too high or low or any other problem. Using hand loads should I expect there will be an occasional light strike with centerfire ammo? Am I expecting too much with the Glock? Many of you reload and shoot far more in one year than I do and would appreciate your perspective. Thanks.

Thanks.

Thanks for the replies. Will the 567 pass the dowel test? I haven't seen any front or back photos showing how close the grip is to one's hip/waist.

I shoot a 4 inch GP 100 in IDPA and am inviting any suggestions for a new holster. I have a Don Hume JIT Slide and a kydex Blade Tech but would like something that will meet IDPA requirements (can’t pass the dowel test with the Blade Tech and plays hell on the blued finish), and can be used for concealed carry. I would also like it to better hug the body and cover the entire barrel. I am open to IWB but have never used one. A Summer Special has been recommended. Any suggestions? Thanks.

I am probably asking a question I know the answer to but let me explain. I seem to be particularly sensitive with some kinds of sights to changes in the point of impact when it is sunny. It seems the POI moves away from the sun. If it is sunny (vs cloudy) the POI goes down. If the sun is coming from the right, the POI travels left. This seems to be a particular problem with fixed sighted guns (Vaquero's and GP's). For IDPA, I use a blued fixed sighted GP100. I painted the front sight orange to help see it better and have been blacking out the orange slowly but still have the low impact problem. Cloudy, it seems to shoot fine. I also shoot Steel with a 617 with adjustable sights. No problems. Any ideas on how to overcome this. New sight color. Perhaps I should go back to black?

I have 231/HP38 powder. I would like to make the PF for IDPA. I currently use 4.0 grains 231 with OAL 1.480. It seems rather mild. Will this make PF/if not, any suggestions? Thanks.

After closing examing the photos and diagram in the link, I suspect as suggested there is something wrong with the cylinder latch and/or spring.

Thanks for the replies. The photos are excellent. I called Ruger yesterday and they asked that I not disassemble the gun and emailed a shipping label. They stand behind their products but I am perplexed about the problem. Your responses help me understand it better however. Again, thanks.

I have a new SP 101 which I just discovered has a problem that the the crane assy moves forward when pressure is applied to the back of the cylinder forward. It moves away from the frame about 1/4 to 3/8's of an inch. It can be popped back by pushing the crane pivot back into the frame. Very odd. I discovered this when I first used a new Safariland speedloader. Obviously the cylinder won't closed unless the crane pivot is popped back into the frame. I plan to call Ruger about this but has anyone heard of this before. Other than my query in another forum (no answers), a Google search found only one identical match with no answers. I haven't disassembled this thing but could it have not been assembled properly? It shoots and handles fine otherwise.

I have a new GP100 and have encountered something odd. When doing a traditional speedloader reload (weak hand holds the cylinder out while the strong hand inserts the speedloader, then close the cylinder with the palm of the weak hand in a slightly upward motion to spin the cylinder a little to help the speedloader disengage if it is hung up on any fully seated cartridges) the cylinder will sometimes continue to spin when seated in the revolver in a clockwise motion without engaging the cylinder latch immediately stopping the cylinder. All of my other revolvers lock at the first indent of the cylinder where the cylinder latch fits into the cylinder stopping all rotation. I have sent gun to Ruger twice and it comes back indicating there is nothing wrong. My other GP100 locks up immediately. I did check two GP100's at a store and both did this but it was more difficult to reproduce than my revolver. Is this normal or OK? It seems to me the cylinder should lock up immediately.

125 gr RNFP 4.0 gr 231 and 158 gr LSWC 4.5 gr 231

Hoppe's Tornado brushes?

I have a GP-100 that has about 5 thousand rounds through it. I have a problem with cartridges sticking or not fully seating when loading with a speed loader (.38 Specials, .357 mags are worse). I normally shoot .38 specials and reload with lead bullets. I have checked the size of the bell (and measure the diameter of the cases with a caliper) and test the cartridges by putting them in the cylinder before going to the range. I have had the cylinders chamfered. The impartial seating/sticking problem also occurs with factory ammo. I am pretty sure the problem has been that the forward part of the cylinders weren't completely clean. I have worked on it with brushes, solvent and JB Compound. I am pretty sure they are clean now. I also think they were clean the last time I shot but the sticking/seating problem arose again after about 4 speed loads (24 rounds). It appears shooting residue is building up very quick at the head of the cartridge. When examined with a light after cleaning there is an obvious ring (as with all revolvers that have been shot) but is not completely smooth after cleaning. Any suggestions? Is what I am experiencing normal? If not, any thoughts about what the problem is and what I should do about it. Thanks.

I am curious about what is acceptable and normal. Is any perceptable movement bad? I notice my Ruger GP-100 and New Vaquero have very little movement but my Smith's don't have any (neither has been shot much either). The GP-100 has about 5000 rounds but no max load .357's and few .357's altogether (<50). It might be something I don't really need to worry about but the information I have seen is rather contradictory. Thanks.