racer-x

I recently received my new Shield Arms 15 round magazines and aluminum mag catch for my G48. Turns out, removing the mag catch on the new G48 (43/43X) is not as easy as all the other Glocks I've done this on before. I spent 30 minutes with a tiny 6" screwdriver that has always got the job done before. Bent up some dental picks and tried a variety of other tools with no success. The solution was using a heavy duty angled pick I found at my local Lowe's. Got the spring out of the mag catch first try, like the tool was made just for this. I used the 2nd from top in the pic below. The top one would probably work just as well. $9 well spent if you need to do this.

Magnum or SR primers significantly reduce extreme spread/SD with AA7 yielding a more complete burn. Gun is much cleaner after 500 rounds as well, without the un-burned powder in the gun. I expect the same results with SWMP. Work up your loads as usual of course whenever you change a component. Magnum / SR primers may add 1-3 PF to your existing load (assuming 1.165-1.185 OAL with 115,124 bullets, etc..)

I zero at 50 yards (also zero at 20). Dialing in at 50 yields a precise zero and confidence. Trajectory for my 115's @ 1500fps below. yds " ----- ----- 0 -1.1 5 -.8 10 -.5 15 -.2 20 ZERO 25 .1 30 .2 35 .2 40 .2 45 .1 50 ZERO

Thanks Eric - interesting. Could you post a picture showing the angle you ended up with on your FPS?

Chaos is stroked - recoil spring MUST be less than 1.370" compressed or gun will spring bind. For example, a stock Wolff 8# fixed rate spring is 38 coils and 1.520" compressed - needs coils removed to get under 1.370" compressed. A stock Wolff 8# variable rate is 1.221" compressed and works great as is.

Or 11.0 grains AA7 under a 115... plugs & muffs all the way,

You need to plunk test your barrel 1st to determine max OAL before bullet contacts throat. 1.150 OAL contacted throat with MG JHP's in my 2 CK Thunders when new - I loaded to 1.130 max OAL until I had my barrels throat reamed. OAL of your load is a big part of the equation. Shorter OAL = higher velocity & pressure. After you determine the max OAL for your barrel, then you can subtract at least .020" from that to get your desired OAL. In general, a longer OAL is better since it will help to reduce max chamber pressures. You need to have a small gap between bullet and throat, or your chamber pressures will be much higher. The other extreme is you need to have enough bullet in the case to hold it securely. My experience is 1.165 max OAL for MG115JHP, and 1.185 max OAL for MG124JHP is optimum (assuming these pass plunk test in your barrel with at least .020 to spare). I recommend you then do a ladder test with chrono to determine what velocities are in your gun (ie. load 10 rounds at 9.2, 10 at 9.4, 10 at 9.6, etc.). This is what my 170PF loads were for my CK thunders when they still had stock size popple holes (3x1/8"). AA7 9.2 grains 1.130 OAL MG124JHP AA7 9.7 grains 1.185 OAL MG124JHP (AFTER barrel was throated for longer loads) I've since enlarged the popple holes to 3x 3/16", so the loads were increased a little to account for bigger holes in barrel: AA7 10.0 grains 1.185 OAL MG124JHP AA7 10.7 grains 1.165 OAL MG115JHP

Here is a primer comparison I did using a Chaos and AA#7 (very similar to MP you are using). Never got as dirty as yours though https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/270400-primer-choices-riflepistolmagnum/?do=findComment&comment=3011825 You asked: Very tight crimp... anything more than removing the bell is too much and reduces case tension, accuracy potential, etc... Seems like a very tight crimp (bullet loose in case) could jack with initial pressures and completeness of burn ? You need to get your crimp right. Here is a link to what works for me: https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/270442-case-crimping-too-tight/?do=findComment&comment=3009548

That is not my experience. I've given Aftec's a fair shot over the last 3 years in multiple guns. While I like the Aftec concept, more parts to do the same thing, has equaled more points of failure... at a higher price. I've had a couple springs break, the ears off the cups break (3 cups replaced so far) and the extractor itself crack. When the little stuff breaks off in the extractor tunnel, it has bound extractor movement and induced gun malfunctions (depending which side of extractor it wedges). Initially, I thought that the broken cups were my fault from installation. I learned early to use the appropriate small size hex wrench to guide into extractor tunnel to prevent chance of this. They still break in the gun while using. This is my experience even with detail cleaning the top end at least every month. They work great when they work, just too many failures in my experience. While replacing these in my guns last week with EGW's, I found a new crack forming just forward of the spring cup on the Aftec that was in my backup gun. This takes my cracked extractor count to 3. KISS.

2 year old Aftec with 8-10K rounds. 2nd I have had crack in last 2 years. Other one cracked (purchased at same time) on edge of cup with only 1K rounds under it (different gun).

Replace when it looks like this...

Sounds like AA7

Looks like fun times ahead - enjoy!

Seems like all of the MRD makes have had problems with longevity. The thing that keeps bringing me back to the RTS2 is C-More's awesome customer service. The RTS2 battery life is not that great, but I like the RTS2's controls, dot and window size & shape. Price point of RTS2 is a lot less than the latest entries like SRO & SIG ROMEO 3's.

Anyone using a slide mounted RTS2 that is still working after a decent round count? Say 10-20K ?

What optic is holding up the best on carry optic guns? RTS2's handle the slide mounted beating OK?

http://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm

I have 2 CK open thunders- great guns and a great value. Nothing but excellent service from Bobbie over the last 2 years.

I don't see why it wouldn't work for you. The working parts of the SDB powder measure looks just like my 550 & 1050 powder measures. The point of the tape is to reduce the slop in the moving parts where the powder slips through. Add more or less tape thickness to get it slop free, but still non-binding.

Try this with your powder bar to minimize spilling with fine powders like AA7. AA7 is a great powder for 9major and this makes loading it a lot less messy.

Here is a pic with thumb rest mounted in rear position.

Use 3 short screws (scope mount-frame) and 2 long screws (thumb rest-scope mount-frame). Use short screws in holes 1-3-5, long screws through thumb rest in holes 2 & 4. Test fit & decide if you like thumb rest best in rear or forward position. Trim screws as needed to ensure they do not stick out inside frame at all, but are also as long as possible to ensure maximum thread contact & strength. Clean all threads (inside & out) thoroughly with alcohol (prefer 99% iso). I use red Loctite 272 (high strength, high temp) & paint witness marks on all screws after completed.This way you will know if they ever back out at all.

Even without knowing what powder you are using, my bet is that your 70fps ES is not a direct result of .006 difference in OAL. I use range brass loading 9 major loads with the case very close to full. The near full case charge makes it easy to see the difference in case volume between head-stamps. My bet is this difference in case volume with mixed brass is a much bigger factor to your ES than .006 OAL difference. Other things in play with a big ES: Variations in bullet weight. Full sun light when you chrono Try a different chrono. My last chrono was all over the place like this when I tried another and found out the chrono was really bad. The powder you are using may not work efficiently at the specific load you are at. Try different powders for same PF or try upping the PF with current powder (be safe of course- ladder test, observe primers, etc.). Like many have said already though, .010 variation in OAL is not a significant factor to practical accuracy (assuming your load is not on the edge of what feeds in your gun or contacting barrel leade). Other than curiosity, I wouldn't chase .006 OAL variation. That isn't bad at all using range brass.