racer-x
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Posts posted by racer-x
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1 minute ago, AHI said:
Till loss or the case splits.
+1
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This load was 170PF in my Chaos:
MG121IFP 10.3 AA7 1.165 OAL CCI 500
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Or, try some different tapes until you find one that works.
Some clear packing tape or scotch tape may be a little thinner and work perfect for you.
How thick is the tape you tried? Mine was .005"
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Yes,
I did a comparison to AA7 in this thread using this lot of SWMP.
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FYI, the 8# container of SWMP I used in this comparison is lot 514.
The marking is smudged, but legible under best lighting.
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From what I've heard, yes.
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Not a fan of N350 for this use. I've worked with quite a few powders over the years with 9major including N350, 3N37, 3N38, True Blue, HS6, WAC, AA7 and now SWMP.
I like the feel of 115's best in open, so this limits your powder choices a little more. Less dense powders like N350, 3N37 & 3N38 are compressed quite a bit, and this causes problems with holding OAL (rounds lengthen after being loaded) and getting the PF you want as well. I experimented using a powder ram in the early days and it caused more problems than it solved (reduced case tension on bullet).
True Blue & WAC are the cleanest I've used with 9 major / 115 loads that can easily make 170PF.
My back to back testing with identical PF SWMP & AA7 loads feel identical to me.
I've seen as much variation (charge required to make X PF) between different lots of the same powder.
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Just put another 200 rounds through gun with similar results - lots of unburnt powder everywhere. Compared to 200 rounds of most recent dirty lot of AA7 - same.
For grins, I cleaned & lubed both guns with about 1/2 the quantity as normal of a thicker oil 5-30 (instead of 0-20).
This isn't a lube issue - its a bunch unburnt powder circulating through my guns.
Pressures are high but not crazy as indicated by slightly flattened primers. I tried magnum primers and that was worse... guessing the magnums were enough extra umph to spit the bullet out of the case before pressures spiked and sealed the case to chamber? Every couple of shots with SPM's I get a little blowback around case into my face.
2 years running AA7 (6x 8# containers) with same load & guns. Never this issue until last lot. Now finding similar problem with SWMP.
I see posts in other threads on super dirty batch of SWMP, but that's a different lot than mine. Seems this is more than just one bad lot...
I loaded up some of my old True Blue loads and see how I like that - been quite a while since I ran TB. Maybe I'll like it again?
Not as slow as AA7 & SWMP, but always very clean.
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1 hour ago, zzt said:
I think you are running your gun too wet. I lube the rails and bearing surfaces and the outside of the barrel. I get none of the debris you show, unless I run it wetter AND lube the chamber and the barrel. Even then it is no where near as bad as you show, even after a 250 round match.
Interesting.
I use 2 drops per slide rail (apply at back of slide & let run down inside of each rail) .
1 drop on barrel by comp and spread around (no oil on ramp or chamber).
1 drop in barrel link cutout
1 drop on top of disconnector
Valvoline Synpower oil in 0-20 when its cold & 5-30 when its hot.
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20 hours ago, chevrofreak said:
That natoreloading site says it is one of the cleaner powders they have tried.
Just read that glowing post... wow.
By 'clean', they are posting pictures of insides of empty brass! My spent brass is very clean as well when I pick it up.
It's the inside of my guns that I'm interested in staying clean though.
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Here is what my gun looks like after starting out clean and shooting 100 rounds of SWMP (MG115JHP @ 1.165 OAL, CCI500, SWMP 10.9 grains).
Better than my current batch of AA7... still on the dirty side though.
This chrono'd at 170.4 PF with ES & SD much better than the 10.7 grain load. Might try taking the charge up another notch to get 173-175 PF and see if it cleans up at all.
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The 8# AA7 I'm having so much trouble with is has a small white label on it marked 2042 and 191818 (presuming the latter is the production date).
So this would have been released in 2018, not 2019 like I was thinking.
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2 hours ago, zombywoof said:
Any chance you have lot numbers of that 2019 AA7?
I'm sitting on 16 lbs
I'll post that tonight.
I already looked on the new SWMP package and couldn't determine the lot number. Were some smudged numbers on label, but not legible.
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Hoping so since that's my reason for trying it.
I have a few hundred rounds loaded ready for a clean gun test. It should be pretty obvious if its cleaner than my current batch of AA7.
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I've been a big fan of Accurate Arms #7 (AA7) for the last couple of years and have gone through quite a few 8# jugs of it for my 9 major open guns. It's always been on the dirty side compared to the VV powders, but not to the point that it caused me problems. I just opened a newer jug (2019 lot) and it is dirty enough to cause all kinds of malfunctions in my Chaos. My CK guns run without complaints with same loads, but they are not as tight fit as the Atlas.
All the talk about Shooters World Major Pistol (SWMP) has intrigued me, but I didn't have a reason to try it until now. Plus, everything I've read points to it being a clone of AA7. Is it really any different? At the very least, it's manufactured at a different location than AA7. With the problems I've had with the latest batch of AA7, I decided to try SWMP - first 8# of SWMP arrived yesterday.
Observations:
- SWMP looks very much like AA7 - see pic below.
- SWMP is same density as AA7. I swapped out AA7 for SWMP in my 1050 and previous 10.7 grain charge with AA7 was still exactly 10.7 grains with SWMP.
- SWMP (at least the lots I am comparing) is a little slower than AA7. Side by side testing with 2 guns showed 13-14fps less (10-shot averages) with SWMP compared to otherwise identical AA7 loads. ES & SD were similar between the 2 powders, with the edge going to AA7.
- Primers read similar pressures between these two. Maybe slightly less on the SWMP, but they were less velocity as well.
- No difference observed in dot movement or shot impulse.
- Burned powder smelled a little different than AA7
From what I saw on the chrono, I upped my SWMP load up to 10.9 grains. This should get me 170-172PF across all my open guns.
(MG115JHP @ 1.165 OAL, CCI500, SWMP 10.9 grains)
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On 12/23/2019 at 9:32 AM, texasdawg said:
Mine is a 9mm. i had read that three 3/16" holes was good for 38 supers, but a little much for 9mms. With three holes in 9mm it seems to me that one has case filling problems, or at least powder choices become more limited and more important. I used two 3/16" holes, the same in area as 3 1/8" approximately. I'm shooting Major Pistol from Shooters World and I like it better than other powders I have tried,,, 9.7 grs does it for me and leaves room to put a bullet on top of it in the case,,,
There is a significant difference between these:
- 2x 3/16" holes (.055) is 49% more area than 3x 1/8" holes(.037).
- 3x 3/16 holes (.083) is 225% more area then 3x 1/8" holes(.037).
I opened up my CK open guns to 3x 3/16". Like how this shoots a lot better and would do it again.
AA7 & MP are great powders for 9M. No issues at all getting enough powder into case to make PF with 115's.
9MM case holds around 13.2 grains full to top of AA7. My normal charge with MG115JHP's is 10.9 (1500 fps). It's a pretty full case, but not compressed either.
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Your welcome - keep us posted. Hope this resolves the problem for you.
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Example of witness marks (red paint) on screws below:
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Different setup than I was thinking. Can't tell if there is a 3rd (optic mount to frame) screw in the middle under the thumb rest?
I am assuming those two thumb rest screws go into the mount only.
My guess is that either the screws into frame are loose, or the thumb rest screw(s) are just a little long and contacting the frame.
Thumb rest looks upside down. I would remove all screws, clean threads (screws & holes) thoroughly with 99% alcohol & pieces of paper towel.
Temporarily re-attach thumb rest screws to optic mount while it is still off of gun. This is for test-fit to ensure those 2 screws do not protrude past flush on other side of optic mount. That would push optic mount away from frame and be a real problem. If they are protruding, you need to grind them down until they are just under flush.
Re-attach everything correctly with loctite and torque all screws down tight. I like to paint tiny witness marks on screws to easily show if they loosen at all.
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Assuming you have 5 screws used to attach mount and thumb rest to frame...
For illustration, holes are numbered 1-5 back to front:
Holes 1, 3 & 5 should be short screws attaching optic mount direct to frame.
Holes 2 & 4 are long screws used to attach thumb rest to frame (passing through optic mount).
The short screws in position 1, 3 & 5 are the only ones that precisely fix position of optic mount to frame (using countersunk ledge of the screw to center).
The long screws passing through the thumb rest and optic mount would still allow the optic mount to move around without the short screws doing that function.
It's best to A) use 3 short screws and B) use these 3 over the maximum range of the available holes (i.e. position 1,3&5).
Here is an example of what I am describing:
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Can you post a picture of this please?
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Sounds like optics mount is loose on gun allowing vertical movement.
Do you have any kind of thumb rest installed on this opics mount? If so, what is the mounting pattern?
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I recently received my new Shield Arms 15 round magazines and aluminum mag catch for my G48.
Turns out, removing the mag catch on the new G48 (43/43X) is not as easy as all the other Glocks I've done this on before. I spent 30 minutes with a tiny 6" screwdriver that has always got the job done before. Bent up some dental picks and tried a variety of other tools with no success.
The solution was using a heavy duty angled pick I found at my local Lowe's. Got the spring out of the mag catch first try, like the tool was made just for this.
I used the 2nd from top in the pic below. The top one would probably work just as well. $9 well spent if you need to do this.
Why do my open guns perform so poorly in the cold?
in Open Pistols
Posted
+1
0W-20 when its below 50F, 5W-30 when its warmer than that.