JustShootOK

Here is the verdict, the gallery was right, it is a PTR-91!!! Thanks all for the great feedback and accurate information, this is why Enos is one of the best forums around!!! I agree this would be a great buy if it was a HK. I would not buy a PTR-91 though, stick with the AR platform....

This is excellent feedback, Kurt, thank you! If it is a real HK, it would be a great deal at face value, I totally understand your points on why it may not be the kind of platform I seek. I will get the scoop next week!!! Thanks agian.

My information may be outdated but if its an orginal HK then I think its a steel at that price. Some of the cheap knock offs were going for 500.00 a while back. They may be around 900.00 now. Originals were going over 2k last i looked at them so I cant imagine them dropping that much. I have one so i hope not. Any thing inparticular I need to look at? I will make sure it is a real HK, strip it down ad inspect it,

Thanks, I will get more details on it next week and share...

Thanks all for your input, we did not get chronoed, the loads functioned the weapon very well, not feed probs from the mag, so the gun shot well , but I did not!! Still getting adjusted to the IDPA game, to many procedurals, and I traded accuracy for speed, which cost me heavily, my overall time was great, but I was crushed on droped points. Thanks agian for your input guys!!!

I am contemplating purchasing a HK 91, saw one for sale , I can get it for 900.00. Excellent shape! what I would like to know is would I be better off building up a .308 AR? I would like to have a long range semi-auto sniper weapon, any advice or experience would be appreciated regarding this weapon as well as comparisons to AR variants. Thanks!!

Had to switch guns at the last minute, My STI Eagle turned into a single-shot, now shooting Glock 35. Idaho State Championship tommorow morning (IDPA), unable to chrono now, here is the load: .40 cal 180 MG 4.2-4.3 TG OAL 1.15 Will this work? Thanks Greg

Great stuff guys, thanks you! Question so that I really understand the relationship between OAL and Powder charge. If I keep the same charge and increase OAL, the PF goes down and vice-versa? Another dumb question! What does the extractor have to do with a feeding problem? I did increase the OAL for my STI to 1.95-1.23 (variation) I increased to 4.4 TG from 4.2. It cycles fine now, but once in a while hangs up reloading from slide-lock. A good bump on the slide and it goes home. I think I am close. I am getting a chrono tommorow so that I can tend to that part of the business. I will do seperate loads for the G35 and STI as advised until I get more experiance and I can tinker with a round that works well with both. Maybe getting the extractor tweaked will help. Anything else I should be thinking of doing besides the chrono.?

What is your OAL?

OK, thanks guys ...

I am not set on anything, if I go much longer I will not squeeze them in a GLock mag, I will lighten the spring, I am trying to make it shoot as soft as possiable, is that a function of powder load right now?

Newbie reloader, just got my new 650 fired up and put together an initial load. The specs are: 180 MG FMJ TG-4.2 OAL-1.16 They fit in my Glock mag and don't bind, the Glock eats them up fine, running a 13 lb spring, cycles well. However my STI is stock other then a nice 2.5 lb trigger. She does not cycle these rounds well, I beleive the stock spring is a 15 lb spring. Accuracy is fine. I did not spend a lot of time working on this, I just had to run out and see if they work. I was shooting all A's at all ranges out to 40 ft. At 20 ft groups were half dollar, so I can tweak later if I need too. So what was happening is every 4th or 5th round it would hang up on the ramp, I could hit the back of the slide and it would go into battery fine. So what are the recomendations out there. My goal is too have a round that works both guns well, is that unrealistic? Also I do not have a chrono, (I Know, I Know) I will get one!!! Get lighter spring in STI? Increase powder charge? Reduce OAL? Other? Thanks

That is good advice, I will concentrate on that! Thank you

Holy Crikies! That is a serious addition!!! I like it but I would have to be reloading gobs of ammo!!!!!

I just purchased a 650 with caseloader from Brian, (Thanks) I saw a a bullet feeder and some other trick little die gauge advertised in Frontsite. What are your opinions on these items. Also I am a novice reloader, I will be loading .40's and .223's in QTY, primarily .40's though. DO they provide increased functionility and safety. Anything other advice on some must haves for really dialing in the 650 with be helpfull......Thanks for your help!

Mine has done that intermittently from day 1. I was told by Benny Hill this weekend to put a stronger spring in it but am not sure where to find one. What is the likelihood that just getting a new one would fix it? Do the FN name plated guns come with a stronger spring? I am also going to take it apart and see if it is hanging up at all and polish the area to see if that helps cuz its been doing it since it was new. Maybe mine just came with a bad new spring. Try Tom Neth at his shop in Emmett , Idaho (Dave Neth's dad). He stocks them. He swears by them, sounds like you got a weak one, this will fix your problem.... His Number is 208.365.4272.

I just added a tall High Viz sight to my SLP 1, It had a lower fiber optic before and rear rifle site that I retained. First off the Hiz Viz site is awesome, great site pic in the rifle site, much better then stock. Consistently sighting in slugs with a bead only at 100yds is ambitious at best. WIth no rear site besides your eye alignment down the barrel, you will always be fighting to put lead on distant targets, IMO this costs you valuable time and slugs trying to get hits at distances between 50 and 100 yds. It is very difficult to detect the minute variation in alinment with a bead only, add in you huffing and puffing , and the stress of a difficult stage, I can just hear the cash register ringing as you rip off slugs trying to hit distant targets. Some guys do well using a varity of sight set-ups, if they do well using bead only, I would say they have perfected it with a tremendous amount of time and experiance and they have rock solid consistent check welds and body indexing. The secret is there is no secret. If you continue to use a bead only, be prepared to shoot a lot of slugs to get it figured out, I would go with fiber in the front with a flip up rear rifle site. Even then be prepared to spend time really dialing it in, this is not like zeroing a rifle and calling it good, the ammo is more finicky and you have a serious handicapp with a bead. Good Luck.....

US Optics SN4Slimeline in Larue Mount Extended Charging Handle and Bolt Release Winter Trigger Guard Custom Single Stage Trigger Aluminum Free-Float Fore stock Greg

Well...got it zeroed in with no problem, I enjoyed shooting with it, I did a little shoot n move with it, the FOV at 1x is excelent, pretty quick to the eye to pick up, at 100 yds and 4x it just lets you punch em right in with no problem. I was shooting at a 20 yd Rapid fire pistol target. The black center is approx. 3.75 in. The dot at 4x cover the black center at 100 yds, I was grouping about 2.5" with 16" 1-9 twist, handloaded 55 grain softpoints. I was just shooting of a bag and not really getting to anal. I haven't shot with a wide variety of optics , so I can't really comment on whether it is better then any other set-up. Overall I am pleased, I like the quality, looks and it is better then the Leoupold 1x4 Turket scope I was previously shooting, one thing I can do that I could not do before with the Leopold is change power on the move, within a couple of steps I can twist it from 1 to 4 and keep hammering. I posted on You tube a little shootin with it... Greg

Their reticles suck being in the FFP. I've got a JPJ1 and a circle chevron scope that I find unusable on 1x for up close and fast targets. Erik Lund is working with them to get them to incorporate his new reticle design into the rear focal plane. Now the hold up is getting it illuminated in the rear focal plane. On a side note..........their glass is phenomenal. Their 4x is so clear and distortion free its almost like 6x. Why do you find it unusable @ close range, is it becaue it's not illuminate or ??? Bill Because you can't see it. Its too small. 1x is for up close and fast. The reticle in FFP is not for up close and fast. Illumination sure would help. I should be recieving my USO SN1-4 Slimline anyday, I ordered it with a illuminated Green Circle Dot. I will let you all know how it works close up... Keep us posted, that was what I was wondering about, except in a JPJ1 reticle. I emailed USO about that and they said that the entire reticle would be illuminated with this choice and I'm still curious on how bright it is. Bill The green and red illumination are not visible enough to use in daylight. The JPJ1 reticle is barely visible on 1x. It looks like a speck in the lens about the size of the capital letter I typed in MS Word on font size 12. It can't be picked up with any speed until 2.5x and its very small. USO's illumination is only good for overcast conditions at best in red or green. I have a JPJ1 in green and a circle chevron in red. Both are the slimline. Their reticles in the front focal plane are pretty much too small for any speed up close. OK, I got my scope mounted and have not had a chance to go zero it in and play with it. A couple of observations though. The scope is well built, beefy to say the least, when you are out of ammo or have a weapon failure you can remove the scope and beat someone with it and you will probally not damage the scope! Bill is correct in saying the illuminated reticle is not daylight visible. Overcast, evening and twilight it works fine. The reticle in FFP is very small at 1x. Being a circle dot reticle it tends to converge together and provides a more concentrated image then Chevron dot I imagine. To be honest, it is not what I expected. If I was not going to 3-gun with it I could live with it, then agian I would have choose a different reticle and maybe a different scope. If the retitcle was daylight illumed very bright it would work much better for your eye to pick up quickly. I think I can still shoot it close reasonably fast, but having said that, one reason I elected to spend serious money on an optic is for advantage. My original criteria was a purpose built, mil-grade optic, true 1x4 variable , illuminated circle dot reticle, high -quality glass, great FOV numbers at 1x and 4x. The SN4 delivers on all points except one that I did not spec out to myself because I was not aware of it. That now appears to be a RFP reticle. From my understanding though , there are advantages to the FFP, primarily with accuarcy and consistency when going from low to high power. The MOA of the ring and and dot on the scope lend itself to shoot well at distance. I believe it is a 2.5 MOA dot which is fairly precise for our ranges that we shoot with a .223. I was hoping that the SN4 would offer the best of quick target acquisition when power is at 1x for multiple targets ranging from 5 to 50 yards before you would reach up twist the power up if needed. Another thing I really do like about it is the large , checkered power adjustment knob, it is easy to adjust power and the rotation is fast. Well that is all I can really say without having shot the darn thing. Will I send it back? DOn't know, really need to shoot it, I don't want to, I waited three months for it! I think it is a fine optic, will it do what I need it to do, I will find out, I plan on going out tommorow. Let you all know.

Their reticles suck being in the FFP. I've got a JPJ1 and a circle chevron scope that I find unusable on 1x for up close and fast targets. Erik Lund is working with them to get them to incorporate his new reticle design into the rear focal plane. Now the hold up is getting it illuminated in the rear focal plane. On a side note..........their glass is phenomenal. Their 4x is so clear and distortion free its almost like 6x. Why do you find it unusable @ close range, is it becaue it's not illuminate or ??? Bill Because you can't see it. Its too small. 1x is for up close and fast. The reticle in FFP is not for up close and fast. Illumination sure would help. I should be recieving my USO SN1-4 Slimline anyday, I ordered it with a illuminated Green Circle Dot. I will let you all know how it works close up...

OK, thanks for the clarification on division, I am still learning about the divisions and such....It is not my intention to shoot He -man, I will shoot a SLP Mk 1 then, I like FN, so I will pick up next week... as indicated in other above posts, I shoot .223 AR-15, Glock 40's (35,23). Yes, I know Benneli is the predominant choice it appears for 3 Gun, I can afford, but I like to standarize , if I see or need a change based on equipment performance I will do it with no problem. My philosophy is to outshoot the weapon then upgrade, until then I stick with what works for me...thanks for all advice, great forum, I am sure I will have more need for the great advice and experiance on these forumns. Greg

Correct it is ported, I am more interested in limited and tactical, but ,please explain about HM being f**** up. Just curious. Just FYI for others trying to figure out what to reccomend for me, I shoot Glocks, compete with 35 limited. Rifle is AR-15. Thanks for comments all.

Hello all, new member to this great forum, I am ramping up to begin 3-gun. I have a FN TPS pump with C-more optics, it is stock with a full A2 butt and sites and Hogue grips. The optics would put me in open, correct? Also, I don't see a lot of FN shooters, I would appreciate any advice regarding this choice of weapon to compete with. I realize Remys and Bennis are the preferred, but humbly ask for advice on what is needed or not needed regarding the TPS or is another weapon selection really warranted to effectively compete? Thanks , Greg