taliv

cool, yep different pages. no problem the .1 is from the 19.5x, which you clearly already know. and if you were planning to test it and mark it with dots, your plan should work. but it still seems like a lot of extra effort to go through when you could just get a FFP. i mean, if you already have a SFP, sure do what you have to, but it sounded like you were setting it up from scratch and intentionally picked sfp. sounds like an interesting match! we had a similar stage to what you describe at the K&M PRS match last weekend. weren't allowed to touch the scope and had targets at 700, 800, 900, 1000, 1100, 1200. the last one put me into the post on my reticle so i had to dial up to the 700 target and hold from there.

"holdover" is what you do with mil-dots or hashes, as opposed to dialing and using the center crosshair. that is pretty suboptimal for precision rifle shooting.how are you getting to exactly the right magnification? assuming your creedmoor is ballpark 8 mils to 1000, you realize if you use 10x as half the magnification, you've added a tenth of a mil error? if you accidentally went to 11x, that's a .4 error in elevation which means assuming your trigger pulling and wind calls are perfect, you still won't touch a 2 MOA plate at 1000k. if you only plan to shoot at full size IPSC or larger targets, you might be tempted to say "it doesn't matter" but if you think precise magnification setting doesn't matter, what will happen is when you tag the bottom of that IPSC, you'll say, "oh my dope must be off. i better true my muzzle velocity". don't plan on getting first round hits after that

yes it does. most stainless match barrels will gradually increase til they peak around 150 rounds or so and then taper for the life of the barrel. they will usually have a couple big jumps where they drop 10-20 fps at a time. this pattern obviously can be affected by chrome lining or any of the salt bath nitride stuff or cleaning regimen or firing schedule. at some point, it will start throwing fliers and that's when it's usually time to replace it.

does google translate support "authentic frontier jibberish" to "english"?

Bought some cr speed mag holsters for a friend and he wants to wear them on a duty belt. Does anyone know if there is a 2" option? Thanks

my own template. i email the table to myself from shooter on iphone, then import into excel spreadsheet and format it like this. that's the big dope card i keep in my pack and copy info off of before the stage to put on my arm band. 5 different density altitudes, and the last purple column is 2 and 3 mph movers. then sometimes i make smaller cards that are just DA column plus the mover column

you're welcome btw, it may also be helpful to stop by walmart and pick a pack of laminating pouches and a pack of velcro squares for about $1 apiece keep a few pieces in your pack. you can use it in an ad hoc way to laminate and velcro anything you might want to use. for example, i'll help a teammate or n00b when it starts raining to laminate something. or if the DA changes, or you show up to a match and your ammo is 50fps slower than you expected, you can recalc your dope card. or stick some on your rifle or something as shown in the pic. or you could tear part of a page out of your match book in a PRS match and laminate it and stick it on your arm. you can write and erase on it with grease pencil. or you could write yourself little notes after you bomb a stage, like "stop yanking the trigger, dillweed" or "don't forget to dial your dope" and velcro them to your scope cap

well, if you know the targets and distances before hand, just write the targets and elevation and wind (in mils) on the board. you can write them in the order you intend to shoot them, or what i like to do is use a bigger sheet and sort of make a sketch so i remember where the targets are in the field. if you don't know what the targets or distances are, then use a dope card and mil cheat sheet. i print my dope out and laminate it (different cards for each DA) and keep it and the cheat sheet on a retractable lanyard on my belt. i use a grease pencil and laminated, colored card stock with velcro on the back for my arm board. i'm not a fan of white because when it's sunny it makes my pupils adjust

i used to carry a rear bag and half-sized pillow but now i just carry the st8laced rear bag. due to a joint issue, i also carry a small bean bag that i only use between my ankle and the ground when shooting olympic style kneeling i own a lot more bags. if i thought they were useful, i'd carry them. i really don't care what other people use. i think limiting the number of bags is stupid. let people use what they want.

first, there are a handful of PRS shooters in east TN. You can come practice with me near cookeville and meet some of them. and we'll help you get your gear sorted. second, gas guns just aren't competitive. but 308 has a division now so you can shoot against other 308 shooters. you don't have to join the PRS to shoot in matches. however, some matches that sell out quickly may give priority entry to PRS shooters. if you're a 3gun shooter, i assume you're used to traveling so i'd strongly recommend hitting the club matches in birmingham (steel city) and baker fl (CORE) and don't hesitate to shoot those with whatever you've got. training is probably a good idea too the ruger precision rifle has the right features for PRS. if it SHOOTS then it's an unbelievable value. if it doesn't shoot, well at least you're only out $1300. i suspect the course of fire will be the same in production and open.

you didn't mention what caliber, so i'm assuming it's 308/223, but if it's a magnum of some flavor, please be aware that while the cans above are excellent, the mfgs may have some serious safety warnings about shooting on short barrels. muzzle pressure is way higher on a 16" bbl than a 20 or 26" bbl and well-built, well-regarded cans have asploded on short barrels

that's all true enough. when you're standing around in the staging area though, you are far more likely to hear "what'd you get for DA?" than "what's your baro reading?" just like people measure distances in yards instead of meters and call wind in miles per hour instead of km/h and give temp in F instead of C. Yeah, you can do a little extra math and convert to whatever units make you happy.

yeah, i bought the minimum needed to do DA, which was the 4000NV and it was all i needed. I recently acquired a Nomad with FFS, which has the ability to bluetooth sync so i don't have to type in wind, speed, direction, DA etc. Not sure it's really worth $150 extra, but if somebody wanted to buy my 4000NV, i'd replace it with a 4500. i don't want a ballistic calc on my wind meter though

things to understand they are totally worth it, but: they get really really hot and make everything else hotter. wear gloves or plan on resting it on something that won't catch on fire or melt carbon gets in the interface between bbl and suppressor and acts like cement. can make it very difficult to remove after an extended range session. use plenty of anti seize. you will most likely want to play with a heavier buffer to delay the bolt from opening. it will result in less gas in your face, etc. you will also want to caulk your charging handle. search for the thread on arfcom for instructions and pictures. depending on the type of suppressor mount, you may see POI shifts as it heats up. you'll want to test it and know your limits or switch mounts. that's why i gave up on QD and do threads only now, but brake attached QD are very popular these days. you will also most likely see POI shift between can vs bare barrel. just know your shift and compensate for it. no big deal. i'd pick a can based on anticipated firing schedule and budget.. old steel YHM cans are durable and heavy and cheap and heavy and will handle rapid fire, but they're also heavy. thunderbeast are lighter, expensive and will handle rapid fire. the new silencerco harvester is impressively light and impressively cheap, but I don't know how they will hold up over time or with harsh schedule

the best thing to do is to find dave T (DT1 i think) and volunteer to RO his match next month down in birmingham. You will learn more than you can imagine by watching 100 other shooters, both gear and technique. you can make some friends, and they will get you hooked up then go take some classes then go shoot some matches world of difference. F class (TR) is basically belly benchrest (and i'm not saying that in a derogatory manner). it's a 6-7 hr investment typically on a saturday. you lay prone with bipod and shoot 15-20 rounds (with usually unlimited sighters in 20-30 min) at a 3" x-ring at 600 yards or a 5" x-ring at 1000 yards in a 'match' and there will be 3 matches in day with an aggregate winner. The target is 6 foot by 6 foot cardboard and there is a dude behind you scoring your shots. there is also a dude in the pits (by the target) that pulls your target after every shot and sticks a big disk in it so you can see the hole. after you shoot, you will take turns scoring and pulling targets for them. there is a monthly match in tullahoma TN not far from you and also in oak ridge, TN. but they are all the same course of fire worldwide because they are an NRA match. usually it will cost you $15 or so to shoot (byo gun and ammo) the sniper or field style are outlaw. no governing body, so every one is different. it's usually a 2-3 day investment. shoot a few of them around the country and you will probably find most organize themselves into 'stages' like 3gun/USPSA/IDPA. Stages can last 8 seconds to 8 minutes. Targets can be 5 feet away to a mile. (though most are 100-600 yards, though it varies based on what the local terrain is like). Positions will be a mix of prone and every barricade, car, tower, helicopter, whatever you can imagine. some are physically demanding, others not so much. some are also team matches, which are the most fun as they add a whole new dimension of problem solving for a good idea, search youtube for gap grind the 308 is capable, it's just at a disadvantage if it's windy because there are many options which shoot higher BC bullets faster with less recoil

the new precision rifle series site is finally up. check it out

grade 8 bolts and conveyor belt or firehose are the way to go. if you REALLY get tired of replacing bolts, call big dog steel and order some of their bolt protectors. it's a little round ar500 cover that fits over the bolt head and protects it

yeah, that's the first place google took me, but there is approximately zero information there. no specs. not even a description. just a pic and a couple prices and a note he's 6 mo behind so again, why do YOU think it's worth 450?

so now i'm curious, hornetx, what specifically is better about the "long range accuracy bipod". I looked into it as you suggested and from the scant info i was able to find (mostly from europtics), it appears to be heavier than atlas and harris. the adjustment range isn't better that i can tell. (roughly same length, less cant) It looks like it would take just as long to deploy as an atlas (appreciably longer than a harris). hard to tell from pics, but materials don't appear to be superior. machining doesn't look as nice as the atlas. i don't get it. unless I'm missing something (which i am prone to do), for even money i'd still take the harris

nothing secret about it. it's a pretty good group of people that try their best to encourage new shooters. but it can be difficult to find the people who actually shoot when some forums are overrun with typer snipers. i think you'll find the signal to noise ratio at TM is pretty comparable to this site, where people read a lot more than they post, and what's posted is usually worth reading.

260 is a great choice. it has a little more recoil so it is a wee bit harder to spot your own trace but it makes more splash on targets and dirt so easier to see hits and misses if you have a visible backstop. i shoot a 260AI mostly i'd say 140g hybrids are the most popular choice at the moment, but for the money i was sorely tempted to try out those 136L scenars when midway had them on sale.

there were some website issues. long story. you will find up to date info here http://tacticalmatches.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/forums/32/1/Precision_Rifle_Series nowind, i prob spend 80% of my time between 10-14x or so with 5% lower than 15% at 25x.

i'd have to go look but i thought the atlas and harris (6-9) were within 1/2 oz of each other both are well made. i find the harris a little quicker to use, but wish it had the pan feature.

there are a series of videos on the PRS website that are pretty well done. good approaches to attacking barricades etc. worth a quick watch

427, depends on the match. as was stated earlier, these are all outlaw matches. the match directors make up their own rules.