RangerJoe

I would look at a Kimber 1911. They are very tight and accurate right out of the box. They are not the cheapest 1911, but they are still reasonably priced for what you get.

I prefer being zeroed at 50yds because when it is necessary for me to quickly transition from close (10yd to 20yd) targets to far (30yd to 50yd) targets I know my far sights are dialed in. I do not need the close sights as dialed when shooting close, but do more so when shooting far with the irons. I do not make it a practice to shoot 50yds with the irons. However, plenty of times I have run a stage that it makes better sense to stay locked in on the irons the adjust to the optics. But that is just my style, you will build your own soon enough. You should try them both and see what works for you.

I would go with silver all the way.

I have sighted my off-set iron in at both 25 & 50 Yards. I prefer mine to be zeroed at 50Yds. Here is data from my rifle... Zero at 25 yards it shoots -2"@10yds, 0"@25yds, +2.5"@50yds, and +3.75"@75yds Zero at 50 yards it shoots -2"@10yds, -1.5"@25yds, 0"@50yds, and +1.0"@75yds As for rotating the rifle, I just rotate my elbow out. Never losing my cheek weld or seating. I find this is the fastest transition.

Congrats to you both! :cheers:

In no particular order: STI Caspian Kimber Smith and Wesson - Revos Glock

Frame mount all the way… Adding that weight to the slide is definitely going to slow down the cycling. With the comp and that added weight you would need some hefty loads to make it fast and reliable. Most of the time you lighten your slide for an open gun.

I also had a similar problem when I had my 550. All the above solutions are something to try, however, I would not want to file down the bar or the bar seat (polish yes, file no). Anyway, I found a few things to keep in mind. Remember that the allen screws on the bottom only should be finger tight and not cranked down. Also, do not forget to check the feed tube plastic nipple. If it is bent or to tight you could be having issues with the primers dropping and not the alignment.

Congratulations David and to the others as well

+1 on what Wolf said. That should be more than enough, plus you have backups if something goes down.

I am looking to get into 3 gun and multi gun shoots. I have the guns but do not have the shell carriers/mag holders needed to compete. I was wondering if anyone had some extra gear that they are looking to part with as well as posable suggestions as to the gear to get. I am all set for pistol gear. I am just looking to get outfitted with gear for my AR & Remington 11-87.

I would sell the square deal press and add the $275 that you were going to spend to the mix and get me a 550.

I guess I stutter when posting

I started shooting USPSA when I was 38. Man, I wish I started when I was younger!!!

I started shooting USPSA when I was 38. Man, I wish I started when I was younger!!!

That is one purdy looking cat!!!! Congrats

+1 on C-more

I had the same water issue years ago and put my safe on 6x6 treated wood because of it. I built a square foundation, anchored the foundation to the cement, then anchored the safe to the foundation. To lift the safe onto the foundation, a few buddies and I tilted it over and walked it to the edge of the wood foundation. Then pushed it up onto it with 1/2" round steel stock under it to help slide it into place. Once in place we removed the steel and anchored it down. It was a lot of heavy lugging & lifting!!!

+1

Buying a variety of springs is a good idea anyway when you buy a used gun. This way you have an accurate reference to what is in the gun. Plus you can now try out a few different # to see what feels and works best for you. I am not sure if you reload or not but you may change you loads and need to match the spring to it as well. This is all assuming you has a one peace rod and spring in the gun and not the STI Recoil Master...

Glocks are great to clean... Just wipe them off, add 1 drop or so to the rails & barrel, and you are off and running. A full cleaning is not needed until hundreds (if not thousands) of rounds later Now if you over lube them, you will have a mess with the lube trapping all the gunk... Got to love the reliability of a glock!!!

+1 for sure here, I was very disappointed with it!!!

I have had the same experience with the Dillon (38 sup, 40S&W, & 45acp). They would pass the Dillon but would sometimes fail the barrel test. I always barrel test rounds now that will be used for big matches.

That paint job is great!!!

+1 on what Walter said I have also found that if you place the entire unit on a square peace of neoprene from a wet suit or something similar it helps as well. I do not have problems anymore. Maybe 1 flipped every 1000 to 1500 rounds. I am also interested if you want to sell it or even if you just want to sell the conversion for the small primers.