Amerflyer48

Nice looking grips BigGabe.....

Paging Jack Breskovich,..Mr. Jack Breskovich.... He made a set of grips back in the days before S_I s that thickened up the grip of a 1911 they were 1/8" steel slabs with plates added that fit the frame holes,.. thickened up the grip and weighted the gun down.... hardly any flip still have mine in my "box-o-extra gear" we all gather over the years However Aluminum versions might keep you under the weight limit.. Aluminum slabs and skateboard tape,would square your grip out I would think.....fine until winter sets in... John

It is interesting to note how we miss (are unaware that we are) , missing things sometimes until we experience them again.. I'm going to make my wife laugh again soon,.. Your post reminded me I also need to hear it more often... Thanks, John

I have found with my rifles and my mid-range wad cutters in a S&W 52 it comes down to case preparation as dillon said. Actually when doing rifle and mid-range I use my Dillon 450 but not as an all out progressive more of a 2 step process. A. clean and check settings on dies, zero scale.. 1. I tumble and sort the brass by head stamp (rifle) then resize and decap..... the "52" has its own dedicated weighed,trimmed and uniformed brass... 2. trim, inspect, clean flash hole/uniform etc. as necessary lube rifle casings 3. check scale,adjust powder measure and throw 10 charges, to settle the press down and establish a cadence.. 4. layout brass,bullets load primer tube and get in "the zone" creating a good cadence and consistent press stroke approximately half way through pull and check charge,.. larger batches get 10 pulled at random for measurement and weight checks at the end of session.. 5. inspect loaded rounds mark with sharpie and store.. note load session in master notebook , cliff notes copy with ammo If you want to know how your reloading technique is, load ammo for a S&W 52 that pistol can be demanding ... but the 450/550 is plenty capable. I think of it this way.. as long as your press strokes are the same there has to be less variables than with a single stage which needs 3-4 times the number of strokes and hand charging the cases or trickling powder which may work for you style of reloading... I spent a some time one summer back in the early 90's and made a few 20 round batches trying everything,20 worrying about case prep,then 20 worrying about bullet weight,20 trickling powder, and running 20 on the dillon,case prepped and 20 with no case prep..all from the same lot of new brass.. my conclusion was case prep affects me most ,..your results may be different... Try it if you have access to both machines.. my conclusion,.. properly setup machines with good reloading practices will work either single stage or progressive ammo is only one of the multitudes of variables we as shooters face,. and some of it is internal psycology which I will wager is why most benchrest shooters do what they do to build confidence which is, a pretty big variable come match day.. Black Hills establishes confidence by having its sterling reputation as "THE Factory Ammo" I have never seen how they make their ammo or what machinery / techniques they use but I will bet it comes down to properly setup machines and good reloading practices executed consistently with several quality checks along the way.... Cheers John

Always thought the reason they were loaded long was feeding issues with short cases in a 1911 and a .40 being more of a 9mm length which the 1911 also doesn't like to feed reliably so you want to trim back a casing that functions fine in a 1911 to load it to almost the same OAL to get it to function in said 1911design and run a LP primer but cut down on internal case dimensions/powder capacity ? Solution a 10mm chamber reamer and only trim 1 thing instead of several hundred things... Anybody think to run a Small Rifle primer like a .38Super does ? should help with blown primers that would be the +p way perhaps.. I say call Starline and have them make some Small primer 10mm Brass load em with SRPs and lets see the 10MM Dance.. 240+ PF here we come.... shooting poppers 4" up from the base pin and down they go... can you tell that I shoot a 10MM ? John P.S. interesting thing I found....... As of Starlines website today : 1000 10mm cases $134.00 1000 38SC cases $124.85 1000 38 Super cases $124.85 1000 .40S&W cases $129.50 So the only thing holding you back is getting your .40 brass from a police range because if we had to buy it new,..it would all be within a few dollars of each other....http://www.starlinebrass.com/index.php?cPath=1&osCsid=24c9efac17ba87973ed77c3cfe211319

I used to run across shooters that would say things like that,.. I worked with my hands and arms all week long so my wrists and hand strength was pretty good,.. got called on not shooting Major out of a 5" .45 a few times, their reason,..didn't "flip enough"... so I usually replied " get the chrono out ,...and $20.00 " paid for a few matches that way... there are so many variables muzzle flip really has nothing to do with if it is shooting hard or not... 1. its a glock 2. its a .40.shooting minor 3. a good solid grip and reasonable arm strength and it comes straight back , 4. steel is calibrated isn't it ? ? or 20 years ago...a 1911 with weighted grips and properly sprung along with a fundamentally solid grip .... not much flip. John

T, First thing to invest in is..............a good notebook ...... record everything about the ammo you make... press settings crimp, overall length etc. so when you find "the load" or you take a few months off you save a lot of head scratching and "I think I...." You can start near the lower/mid end of the 175gr. load data and work up to something you like,if you will note heavier bullet = less powder also make sure LEAD DATA for LEAD BULLET Jacketed bullets require different charge weights..and mixing can lead to pressure problems.. Always start on the low side of the data ,..never below a published book though some powders get funky at low charges trust the R&D the Mfg. has done.. With a new loading I like to make 20 or so of each powder level (if the book shows it like a Sierra manual) coming up in 1/2 grain increments or so to just under the book max. mark ziploc baggies with info and keep the brass separated after firing to compare also a chronograph is handy but can be obtained "down the road" I usually fire 10 for feel and 10 for accuracy to see what is worth repeating then I fine tune with loading in between the 1/2 grain.. depending on if I use for IPSC then it goes to chronograph (major) or tune for accuracy (wadcutter bullseye loads etc.) keep an eye out for pressure signs, flatten or dimpled primers, compare to a factory case you have fired..should look similar to them however if they flatten out you have more pressure than you want. I can't help you as far as powder, I shoot a 10mm with an "obsolete" powder I stocked up on... My initial OAL is load as long as they will fit and load into the magazine and back off a couple thousandths but that is a 1911 design not sure how the SIGs like it.. try the manuals OAL first then go longer if it needs it,..be careful of going shorter sometimes it causes higher pressures.. Also I use small rifle primers in all my small primer ammo except for my .38 SPL wadcutters keeps me from oops-ing in my 38Super, The problem with starting out with rifle primers is that they don't show pressure signs until you are Wayyy up there,.. OK in a Open racegun built to do it, though not so good for a stock gun I use Winchester for the .38 Spl. Welcome to a new hobby/obsession/addiction and to the Forum a 550B is a great press to start on and run with,..my RL450 is still going strong some 20 years later....who knows how many rounds have been through the press... and their warranty can not be beat,..not that you will need it much.. John

Mine is called "New England Coffee" comes in a tan bag,.. good stuff.. The secret to coffee is to not follow the directions but vary the grounds to water ratio until you find the "perfect load" My setup is 12 servings on the maker to 4 scoops coffee grounds,.. HOT water goes into machine to get hotter,..Dunkin' does this so it must be right.. Load into cup over a scoop of brown sugar ( or Splenda mix for the dieting crowd ) top with cream if desired To reload this selection Press = Hamilton Beach (no carafe design) only cause Dillon don't make one.. Casing = 10 oz. mug Powder = usually "breakfast blend" but will sometimes change to Hazelnut or Vanilla roast depending on the days COF Primer = HOT filtered water OAL = 3/4" short of brim crimp hand tight around body of mug,... re~shoot as necessary John

Flack,.. I wouldn't count it out as obsolete yet,.. think of it this way,.. it is lighter than a wide body and if the course of fire is L-10 friendly ( taking a reload or 2 out of the static times) it may be as quick or possibly quicker if you can drive a single stack better than a wide body.... back when my Dad and I shot together he had/has a Caspian and I have the 10mm above,with a dot then. always a coin toss as to who would win the day.... and sometimes I think I would be faster with the old iron sights too.... sometimes "progress" is a perception... think of it as another tool in the IPSC/USPSA toolbox if you choose to shoot it.. John P.S. I also have my Dads last singlestack, .38Super with a dual port cone barrel comp I added a C-More to it will be racing this coming year after having taken several years off and the budget doesn't allow me to contract S_I-itis Do I feel at a disadvantage with "90's Tech?" Nope,.. just have to focus and plan a little more..

As it is your thread,.. I will reshoot the pic sans ammo and hammer down if you wish.. John

1 Lyman Spartan single stage ( gray ) 1 RCBS press a Junior I think.... was given me by a non reloading person, 1 RL 450 with a powder system upgrade,..primer upgrade to follow

Gun used to have a RED BUFF mount on it with a Tasco and a PPS slide racker.... oh yeah and a *thumb rest [generic]* back in 1993 my first handmade gun part will see if I can find the mount it is in my bag of old Odds and Sodds fun digging through old shooting gear,.. good times, good friends and good matches... Some have left the sport and sadly others have left the range.... John

Wasn't sure if Comps were even OK Edited pics to maintain integrity of thread.. no training wheels.. John

The .401 arrived about 4 years before the .41 Mag. so it was a historical interest thing... not to mention the $125.00 each price tag for the pair I bought in 1989 http://www.gunblast.com/Fryxell_Herters401.htm

I'll start with this,.. HERTERS .401 Progression from rifle to pistol Yep brand spankin' new .30-30 Win now .401 PowerMag .41 Mag. data and 10mm/.40S&W die set John

I used to use an old loaded .30-30 Win round to iron them out when they were too flat to resize,.. doesn't scratch the case the die took it the rest of the way back John

Back to the days of Mike LaRocca and Dan Sierpina When a single stack with a dual port comp was the ride C-More was in its early years and folks were buying stock in TASCO and rebuilding P-9s LaRocca .38 Super Elite Practical Pistol Services 10mm Delta Elite Reworked Colt Gold Cup upper on a Series 70 frame Reminded me of the big Oakley glasses,..watching Satterwhite showing us how to use a Beretta 1201 and Mark Mazotta showing us how to talk slow and shoot fast.. John

1) Must own a 1911 Single Stack of original JMB Design, NO light railed guns No rails Practical Pistol Services 10mm Delta Elite and Ken Pacheco .45 tuned Gold Cup top end 5" with a PPS Well Widget Mag Well and a bare Essex SS frame... 2) Must have proof of having competed in a Single Stack Division Match or a IDPA CDP Match dating back to January 1, 2007 inclusive 3) Previous use of ANY Polymer framed gun has to have been limited to Production Division, Steel is real 4) Any archived post attributed to you will that was/is deemed to be derogatory to the Single Stack Division is grounds for a lifetime ban. 5) Photo of both sides of your 1911 Single Stack must accompany membership application. see pics included please 6) Proof of a USPSA Life-Membership number consisting of ONLY three digits will over-ride lack of two photos and proof of match participation Dave Signed it himself 7) 1911 Elitist / Snob Club board has final say on all matters, there is NO SUCH THING AS ARBITRATION!!!! Thank You for your consideration.... John

Thanks for all the replies,.. now I have a direction to go when the WSL runs out.. John

The very last cartridge out...would be only one in the press, would be stroke # 103 on a Dillon 550.. the other stations would be empty, younger minds wander to match day as the press winds down, I am more methodical these days... a drop check device or the barrel out of the pistol will find it really easy I have one for every caliber I reload. My Dad has one from EGW that had 4 calibers in the same block .38Super,9mm,10mm, and .45ACP I think (circa 1991-92) John

Sometimes whenI reload on a progressive I forget the last press stroke on the last round.. yep Taper Crimp so that round has no crimp,.. Slide comes forward and tries to size case with the chamber as a die,..squishh Just a thought on possible cause for your effect. John

Well,.. back in the day I stockpiled WSL (yeah long time back) and I am running down to the last 3 Lbs. Of course Winchester doesn't offer it anymore so I am left with a dilemma What powders to look at to run through my comp gun, I am also open to bullet weigh changes as my supplier of 155 LSWCs is out of reach and shipping is really going to suck. Anyone out there run 10mm or just this .40 S&W Long ? Any Thoughts Appreciated.. John L-926

So I am to believe a membership # of L-926 is good enough ? I have 4 single stack frames: 2 comped (dual port) a 10mm and a .38Super with dot and 1 5" and one slap worn out SS Essex Frame might get a .22 conversion for it I will post pics of my 5" Gold Cup Limited gun when I get the camera out. any excuse to show her off... might even hang the Breskovich grips back on. John

I would best be able to describe it as seeing my retinas,well actually the blood vessels, or a ghost image thereof.. pretty freaky,.. John

Mine is actually old enough to vote...10mm Delta Elite Was at the 1993 AWARE Invitational and took me to B class after getting another shooter to A Class....and still shoots great...