Loves2Shoot

Benny, that was the only thing he did , a couple of days after i went back there again he put some lapping compound and cycled the slide until it was smooth again....is this still fine or will i encounter some fit problems in the long run..Thanks I agree with Benny that it is VERY hard to tighten the slide just putting it in a vise w/ the frame in it. If he actually did tighten the slide that way I would venture to say it won't be long before you have issues with the gun, because the slide shouldn't take a new set by doing that as if it is fit properly it will hardly even deflect.

Very good! Many of the questions that we ask ourselves our faulty, and thus the answers we arrive at don't really solve the problem we think we are having. Sometimes it is good to find a new question to answer.

Frank is a somebody

I recently won a stage at a state match with a down 5, but I shot it fast and people who would have waited to make sure they had both hits on that target were much slower than the 2.5 seconds it cost me to let the shot go. IDPA does put a HUGE value on the down 0, but if you aren't willing to push the edge, you will lose a lot of time (more than the 1.5 seconds from an occasional down 3) you won't rise to the top. That is the main thing I see with shooters won ONLY shoot IDPA. They have an unreasonable fear of dropping any points. That being said I try not to drop points, but not so much that I go into "safe" mode. I could drop only a handful of points every match, but it wouldn't serve me well. I'm always going to drop less, but If you lose time on every shot you take, that will cost more than on the occasional bad shot. If you are not accurate, it doesn't matter how fast you are and if you aren't fast, it doesn't matter how accurate you are, you will stay in the middle of the pack. The whole question being asked doesn't make sense to me. If you have a race car and you take away the tires, it doesn't matter how powerful the engine is and the other way around also. You will be limited by your your speed or your accuracy, which ever is worse is what limits you.

Well, Raymond went through a lot of effort, so I don't want to detract from the excellent work that he did, but this is stupidly simple with things that most shooters already have. Parts list 1. El cheapo cleaning rod w/ extra attachment rod or jag. 2. .25" drill bit and 3/32" (or other small) drill bit 3. Tiny split ring (if you want to use a fish type scale, but you can use a regular scale also by pushing instead of pulling.) Steps A. Drill a hole in the top of the handle B. Drill a hole in the extra extension (you can trim down a rod or attachment) and attach the split ring if you want to use a fish scale. C. Assemble per photo and weigh the spring. You can measure most all recoil springs with this setup. For recoil springs like in the M7 you could throw washers on it.

Clever. Do you mind if I show an easy, cheaper, more versatile way to do one that I haven't seen anyone suggest yet?

It is not an OR question. Speed without accuracy will not score well and accuracy without speed won't score well either.

6" guns aren't IPSC Standard legal. I know that has some bearing on some of the decisions. I can still make my 50+ yard shots with a standard sized gun (at least I did this last weekend), but some folks need some extra length to perform well. Why do you think they sell so many of the little blue pills? If you need a little extra help to perform (or think you do) then you will pay what you need to to perform, and some times that is all that really matters. I don't have aged eyes yet, but who knows, someday I might need that extra little boost and then I'll built some long ones.

Way to go Mitch!

I wouldn't count on it, or any major match, being in Bend for awhile. Yes, we have some members of the BOD of our range who are morons. Morons is the kindest word I could think of. The range is well developed now, but I would think Chuck is correct in his observation.

A 5" S_I gun works pretty well. There is a lot of "fashion" in shooting, and people like a high cool factor, thus the fancy or "new" gear, and there isn't anything wrong with that.

It matters to me where it is only because of weather. I'm no fan of shooting under water, which my experience way east of me (west coaster) gave me a new understanding of what shooting in the rain can be like. Had I know it could rain like that I would have done some practice in the shower dry firing.

Today I used the frangible you gave me through my XDM w/ Barsto and it grouped fine and no fliers.

Excellent work bro.

Let him pick is my vote. When I first started shooting, an experienced shooter told me to shoot left handed as my left eye is slightly more dominant, but neither eye is dominant enough for me to see one crisp sight picture without obstructing the off eye. I have found no down side in obstructing the off eye with tape or a frosted lens in the proper spot. Most of the theories I've heard espoused that is is bad or is a disadvantage just don't hold water in my personal experience. I can shoot fine with both eyes (either eye) but I prefer the crystal clear sight picture of obscuring my off eye when pushing the limits. To this day I feel that you should switch from your naturally dominant handing was some of the WORST advise I've been given. I spent over a year using my left hand, so I did give it a real go.

Torrie Simmons is a gunsmith for Bruce Gray (Gray Guns.)

It can be done. If you use a light setting it just discolors the surface. Turning the laser up will actually burn into the ionbond which doesn't show up as well, and could lead to problems down the road. I'll post some pics when I get home tonight. +1 If you chose the PVD Grey, it turns up a dark color, if you lightly burn the DiamondBLACK surface it turns a goldish color.

I hate reloading, so I've done both, right before the match (local) and making a bunch up. For big matches, I load up 2-3 weeks before the match with my match components. I'll load 3 times the amount of rounds I need for the match. I'll shoot 1/3 making sure the sights are good and doing some short practices. I'll take double what I need to the match "just in case" and so if anyone I'm shooting with needs ammo, I don't have to worry about giving some away. It only takes 3 minutes to crank out 100 rounds, so I generally hit it 10 minutes at a time.

We have fully detailed videos of the guts of the XD/XDM on our website under the videos section if you are really interested.

I have 2 pair from prize tables, and I really like them. They aren't stylish, but the lenses are very excellent. They are great for rifle, because you can adjust the height of the lenses also on the ones I have. I had some Rudy's that I liked also until my 1 year old grabbed them off my face and they broke in half

DiamondBLACK baby

This ^^ is what I'm talking about...not so much the "Yak-skin" covered versions. Cool example. http://www.yurts.com/gallery/virtual-tour.aspx I wouldn't doubt if that is the same one I lived in, as their factory is just over the hill from us. Looks very similar to the ones we had on the site. It was on a real foundation and had a heat pump also. The walls and ceiling had good insulation, and was easy to control the temperature.

Really? I just double-checked the IDPA MAIN WEBSITE, and that is NOT the impression I got about the sport at all; the very first words on the site are: "The International Defensive Pistol Association (IDPA) is the governing body of a shooting sport that simulates self-defense scenarios and real life encounters. " Are you saying that no one will read "training for the street" into IDPA's stated purpose of: "simulates self-defense scenarios and real life encounters." ?? Coulda fooled me. I am the only one reading it this way? Link also starts out: "The main goal is to test the skill and ability of the individual, not equipment or gamesmanship. “Competition only” equipment is not permitted in this sport." True, the rules don't cover everything. The gaps in the rules are the reason there is the FTDR. Using "competition only" equipment = FTDR. It is clear that grip spray is part of the "competition only" equipment to which the above-linked site refers. The impression they try to give you to "sell" their sport, sounds like you are buying what they are selling if you honestly buy it. There are many things that are "must do's" in IDPA that you would NEVER do "on the street." I'm glad you stated the "competition only" equipment thing. That is silly if you think about it, as for me, my vest, holster, mag pouches and gun are "competition only" equipment, as they are specifically legal for IDPA, and IDPA is a competition and they only thing I use them for. I think that for a lot of people, that would be an accurate statement. I don't use anything fancy for IDPA, nothing that even comes close to bordering the rules. I do believe there is any advantage in using any gear that is not clearly IDPA legal, and with the exception of the magazine capacity, the exact same gear could win any IPSC match, and it does. The only substantial difference is the belt going through the loops in IDPA and the double belt system in IPSC, and that doesn't make a difference from a usage standpoint. If we are honest and know history, IDPA was developed as a sport that "is not IPSC." When you create something with such an emphasis of not being something else, that causes a lot of issues, and I personally think is one of the reasons for a rulebook that is not clear. Being dogmatic about it being a "self defense" sport doesn't help the sport. I've train with top LEO and Military instructors and some of the foundational requirements of IDPA are not tactically sound. I like IDPA as a sport, and I have fun playing it. I do wish that a few things were changed that made more sense, but it isn't my sport to change, so I play by the rule there and ask if there is anything I might do that may be questionable.

Than you wouldn't have a walk through telling you EXACTLY what to do and EXACTLY how to do it.

IDPA is not training for the "streets" so any argument that contains "you can't do it because you wouldn't do it on the street" should be ignored. They have a rule book, those are the rules for the game. If the rule book does not address what you want to do (ie. using ProGrip or something) then e-mail the folks at IDPA HQ to get their take on it. Then if they reply it is ok to do, then print it out and put it in your shooting bag. This seems a bit extreme to have to do, but the rule book is not very tight and with the FTDR out there it is better safe than sorry. Ie. I inquired about tape on my shooting glasses and they said opaque tape is legal, black tape is not, so I decided to frost my shooting glasses instead of having to explain it to any uninformed SO. Wipe your hands with an alcohol wipe and it will dry them out for a stage if you need to. Since they hand them out at most dining places I doubt anyone could argue they are "competition equipment." Personally, I think it is a safety issue and think banning it would be counter productive. ps. On the shoes, cleats aren't allowed, but off road running shoes are just as aggressive and you don't slip on wet boards with them.