Loves2Shoot

Do the "IDPA dance" and don't be piddling in and out shooting positions. Get to where you are "supposed" to be, shoot the targets and get out. Use all of the -0, over aiming in IDPA seems to be the norm. Know when to take your down points. Some people alluding to the only way to win by "gaming" stages is funny, IDPA is a game, duh. Shooting it within the parameters of the stage description, but do it as efficiently as you can. I don't dare do anything "unique" without asking the SO's approval first. Any shooter who can make Expert, can shoot a Master score if they apply themselves.

Those results look similar. Nice thing is you can pop in 147 with the same charge and have good loads to take out steel.

Bingo That is why there there aren't "natural shooters" and the "try-hard" gene is the only common gene that I see in the only shooters I've known to make shooting look natural. From TGO to BJ and Nils to Benny Hill, no one makes shoot look easy without the "try hard" gene and lots of practice. That is why I answered to OP's question the way I did. How long and how fast to master the skills will vary by training, physical and mental ability of course. Some will have to do those things 1000 times, some a million, but without the desire and dedication, I don't see it happening. ps. I think that trying hard might be confused with the analysis and correction skill that it take to program your body to do any action.

Someone who is willing to do the same thing over and over and over and obsessively evaluating every detail and nuance of what they are doing until they can perform at the limits of human performance.

I'm not sure where you get an $80 trigger bar (ours is $60) but the reason we make a new trigger bar is to upgrade the strength and reliability over the factory parts along with a reduction in travel. If all we wanted to do was make a reduced trigger travel we wouldn't make a new sear and trigger bar, we could just have copied the modification the factory does to the safety lever to reduce travel. We know where the factory parts are prone to failure and have improved upon the factory parts for improved performance and reliability. Our springs were made to my specs after extensive testing for reliability versus trigger lightening. A kit is NOT the same as a full blown trigger job. The trigger feel is what you get from the sear releasing the striker and the pressures involved. The PRP parts do what they were designed to do also.

Not true, Read the rule book and look for "power factor" velocity * bullet weight / 1000 Using your example 717.5 * 230 / 1000 = 165 The minimum power factor for major is 165.

Our club is a not for profit and they host a lot of bigger matches where they charge big bucks. All the money goes back into improving the range, paying staff for events, toilets, targets, insurance, ect. Any decent accountant should be able to tell you the specifics of what you must do depending on the type of non profit your club is.

What he said.

Avoid woman if you would have peace.

D-

Shhhh, that subject will get the thread locked as that is about the "episode that can not be spoken". "Captain Furious" said he putting that persona aside at the start of episode VI, a very good thing IMO. The lack of practice, sitting people out, voting not the worst performers, poor planning for equipment and challenge failures will hopefully make for a better season II. I would hope they could shorten the film shoot to allow for some of the better competitors (all disciplines) to apply.

It should have a pin that holds it into the frame. You will need to punch it out first. If it is hard to remove, you can clamp in a small vise and tap the vise to get it out.

Just go watch some WWE, come up with a catch phrase a little more modern than Rat Fink and you should be a big enough personality and get plenty of face time if you can shoot You can do it!!!

Works good in a pinch. If you bend straight the right leg of your leaf spring, gravity will work also.

Yes, what is most beneficial depends on what is most important to you. Most people that want to modify the XD/XDm want the shorter pull distances to more closely resemble the 1911 style trigger.

G-man, a few years back we went over this with Ayoob on XDTalk and all of the cases he brought up had to do with accidental shootings and modified triggers in the "hair" trigger range, and they were almost all single action revolvers that were cocked. Mas'conclusion was that reasonable trigger modifications are perfectly acceptable for carry or duty use. Given the number of Duty trigger modifications we do for LEO, I think more than a few Chief's agree with this viewpoint. If anyone wants to look at a lot of cases just go to XDTALK and search for Ayoob's posts. I have NEVER seen a case presented that show someone is negligent for making reasonable modifications to their carry gun. If that case law does exist, please do share.

I see where you are coming from now. I (or someone in my shop) gets asked the "what is the best trigger pull weight for me" question about every week day, so for me this is something I have have put some thought into. In close fast shooting you are shooting (5-6 shots per second) that amount of time between your aiming and the shot breaking is minuscule. My grandpa taught me to shoot my first real rifle (.222 Remington, a .5 MOA gun) and it had a 1#ish trigger, I can still hear him say, "Don't touch the trigger until you want to break the shot." Eventually, I could break the trigger after touching the trigger and holding it there and then pulling it ever so slightly, but it did teach me to respect triggers and treat them all like a 1# trigger. I don't suggest a best trigger weight for anyone, but if you learn to rely on your skills and make good habits, you can grab a gun with a 1# trigger or a 8# trigger and do what you need to do SAFELY. If you rely on trigger weight to prevent "something" bad from happening, you limit your ability to be safe.

My thoughts exactly and I think it is a point commonly overlooked.

"But you may not want to fire the instant you have your finger on the trigger." ??? Then I don't get what you are saying in your posting, because if my finger is on the trigger I want the gun to go off. Preference is enough of a reason to want a heavy trigger but I don't understand where the "small but real safety margin" measure is you stated, but there is a lot I don't get.

A caveat before the thread gets locked down. I could call less if you like a heavy or light trigger, the only thing that makes a gun safe (a proper gun and ammo) or unsafe is the person holding it. It scares me to hear people honestly think that a pound or two on the trigger can make the gun safer, as I've seen way to many AD's with overly heavy trigger to believe this theory. The user is the safety on a gun, not the lever and widgets manufacturers put on them.

I think that would be a VERY bad thing to "plan" to do for the exact reason you stated. I also think having your finger on the trigger and not being prepared for the gun to go off at any instant is dangerous. I never plan to put my finger on the trigger until it is safe for it to go bang. Dump pure adrenaline in your veins and 1-2 is nothing, but to each his own. I know if my finger is on the trigger is can go off and if it isn't it won't.

Good advice. If you want soft, heavy bullets feel softer to me also, but at a certain point soft turns to sluggish. The profile of your firing pin stop can be an interesting thing to experiment around with also.

Yes. A 4# trigger is the industry standard floor for carry triggers on single action 1911's historically and that is why we set that as our break point in trigger weight. What you choose to carry is your choice, we just have to make a label for business/service purposes. We do add a little more pre-travel on the carry jobs. I can pretty much guarantee you that under stress a 4,5,6# trigger won't prevent an AD if you have your finger on the damn trigger when you shouldn't and to hear people say a reasonable light trigger (3# range) is more dangerous than a 4.5# trigger does not compute if the work was done properly. Deciding to carry has risks and rewards and should never be taken lightly IMO. If you aren't up to the task, then don't do it. If you think you are up to it and can't handle a gun with sufficient skill to handle a gun without it going off ONLY when you want to, please society a favor and get proper training until you are "skilled enough to carry a Glock .40." (YouTube DEA agent if you don't get it)

Yes, I would suggest you handle a few of them to see if one jumps out as fitting you better though. Any mainstream production gun with the common tweaks work fine. I've shot XD, XDM, G22, G35, G17, CZSP01, EAA Match, and Sig 226 on the IDPA classifier for repeatable scores. The times all ended up within a few seconds of each other. The only thing it really proved to me was the guns all work and time differences for SSP and ESP classifications are illogical. PS. I tried the M&P pro with a upgraded trigger, but didn't bother to shoot the classifier stage as it didn't seem different enough to matter.

You could substitute any of the major models... PG13