Loves2Shoot

Deltapoint blows it (and everything else in it's class)away IMO.

BladeTech Stingray

Those are the standard things I would suggest as far as how the gun and ammo should be set up. If you dry fired the gun (ie dropping the hammer) that could have cleared the debris, the pencil test isn't always accurate if you've hit it once already. I use aluminum rod the appropriate diameter and face it off once it has been hit once.

They make rifle primers harder for a reason and you are making your pistol loads hotter than the SSP primers you are using are designed for, thus the failures you are seeing. I could be wrong, but I've seen it enough that I'd laying a few $'s down just by looking at the photos you posted. Like I stated above, they aren't igniting because it appears the flash hole is clogged.

That's what it looks like to me, major 9 or 38 super = small rifle primers. My guess would be primer flow into the flash hole causing it to clog and thus the light strikes with the major ammo.

Are you using small pistol or small rifle primers?

I use a synthetic 30 weight motor oil and trans oil mix, but any oil will work.

In my best Wayne's World impression voice, "You are worthy, you are worthy..." Seriously, do you spite your family when they are doing things they enjoy? Balance in life is always tricky, but if you can do, why not do it while you can, because there will be a day that you can't.

I anticipated this and ordered extra pins and the roll punchs from Springer. But it was HELL to put the new one in. Was it supposed to be that hard? Do you have any advice the make insertion easier just in case it breaks again? Starter punch Was this starter punch included in the pack of punches I also ordered from SP? The roll pin punch works well! We added it to the pack, but the first packs didn't have them. If you have a punch that is hollow, you put the pin in it and orient the pin and give it a whack. You shouldn't need to crimp it if you have the starter punch, just a dab of oil on the end of the roll pin will get you started.

I anticipated this and ordered extra pins and the roll punchs from Springer. But it was HELL to put the new one in. Was it supposed to be that hard? Do you have any advice the make insertion easier just in case it breaks again? Starter punch

Yes, a roll pin, lower than flush on the sight and flush or less in the slide. You can also do it in the dovetail if you are using the .100 and don't care if you see the pin.

You could remove the fo, drill a hole through the sight and slide and pin it.

It happens with most commonly with large amounts of dry fire and no snap caps. It is cheap and easy to replace them.

I'm partial to IonBond's DiamondBLACK

That is why it is good to have a rule book and know it I've called HQ more than a few times to make sure that I understand the ones I need to. They are always very helpful. The training for SO's seems to vary a bit. I've had a SO tell me that my mag pouches weren't legal because he didn't understand the rules and hadn't seen my mag pouch before (standard Safariland) and he wanted to DQ me from the match, so sometimes it is worth having the conversation if you know the rules.

The rules says: Extended magazine release (button may not be oversize in diameter or protrude more than .2” out from the frame). The rules does not say "out OF the frame" it says out FROM. On the XDM the grip is part of the frame and the widest part of it, not where the release comes out of the frame. If they measured it FROM the frame, that would be the widest part of polymer frame. The XD/XDM +.1 release has been used in ESP at the Nats for the last 5 years. Look from the rear of the gun at the release and if it sticks out .2" FROM the frame then it is not complaint. On a 1911 the frame width is where it comes out of the frame, so the SO might have been using that as his understanding of the rules, not the actual rule, which says FROM.

It is measured from the side of the gun, not where it comes out, so you would have to have a huge release to stick .2" past the side of the grip on your XDm.

Gary, so are you saying as an official RO you can't advise a competitor who pulls an "illegal" magazine out of his back pocket, not to use it and to get rid of it before he goes further or you will have to move him/her into Open?

I didn't know about the distinction, know that my vote is just buy a new mag I think a thoughtful RO would say don't use that mag and not give a direct bump to open though.

If you don't have the mag on you (ie get rid of it by dropping it after you rack the round in) when the buzzer goes off, you shouldn't have a problem. If you stash it in your pocket, then you could have an overzealous RO cause you much pain. I would think it is just like using 11 rounds in your start mag in Production and racking the first one in on the LAMR leaving the proper 10 rounds in the at the start signal, and that is common practice.

I just use FO front and rear because you don't need the sights to be taller than the suppressor to aim with them, as you can see a good sight picture on the back of the can.

Since you asked for advise, shoot the gun, don't shake it. Let the accuracy and reliability make the choice, not the noises. There is more to properly tightening a frame than just squeezing it in a vise.

Paul, why would you want a lube that is more "expansive?" That sounds like my waistline. As for lubes, as long is it stays put, I'm happy. Nothing like having all the lube run out of your gun on a hot dusty day.

and for the bargain price of 5k....