Loves2Shoot

Open your eyes and watch you sights.

If you want to shoot L10 Kimbers are a very good way to go and for $1000 for your setup I think your best choice. They make a good gun at a good price and you should be able to find a model that fits your budget. You might want to price out all the gear you will need and make a budget before you get to far along in this. MattBurkett.com has good info and a list of the basics. Good luck and good shooting.

Glocks work good, but I would stay away from the 23 is you want to compete with it for two reasons. You will have to load hotter ammo for the shorter barrel, and you have a shorter sight radius (harder to hit the long shots) If you go with a Glock and want to shoot production, go with the 9mm, if you want to shoot Limited go 40. If you want to shoot L10, a Kimber .45 single stack is an affordable way to go. If you think you are hooked and want to eventually go limited or open, I would start with a 1911 .45 in L10 for many reasons, the 2 biggest is your natural point of aim won't have to change if you go to a SVI/STI and the control and trigger/sights will be the pretty much the same. If you have cash and want to go full bore talk to Dave Dawson, he seems to have good prices and a good rep. Good luck and DVC! (Edited by Loves2Shoot at 7:42 pm on Jan. 14, 2003)

Phenex, You need to be more specific if you want help. What do you want to accomplish in your shooting? How much are you willing to spend? Do you have a buddy you want to be in the same class with? I would put some thought into your motivation and goals for shooting and then edit your post if you want some help figuring out this one, because there are too many options out there.

Enough said, Limited classifications should be the same for either L or L10, could someone please fix that.

I like the 2002 CR Speed model sleek, adjustable, good locking device, and SIMPLE. I don't like holsters that don't cover the end of the gun. At Area 1 2001 a few dq's from people hitting the end of the gun while tryng to get situated in a chair and guns falling on the ground loaded. I heard most were the ghost-type models.

14" plate at 220 yards with a stock springfiled 45, on the 4th shot from a bench, 7 tries to hit it freestyle. A bullseye shooter said it couldn't be done with a 45. HA! Every dog has his day.

Just a thought, but would it not be easier (less likely to lose a gun?) to travel without your gun, say UPS the thing to a FFL holder in the local club? I haven't traveled with a gun yet, but am toying with the idea of going to FL and shooting where it is warm, but am not looking forward to trying to get my blasters through security if I do. Is this something people do?

DBChaffin, Could you do me favor and see if those A class L10 shooters shooting widebody aren't M class Limited shooters? That is my only beef with different classifications for each L and L10.

Nice gun, I wish I could shoot Quarter size groups @ 15.

I think where the Dillon wins out is in the customer service, the service is awesome. Also, look at the resale value on a Dillon. I like my Dillon but that doesn't mean I think the Lee is inferior. I paid a bunch of money to be able to reload 1200-1400 rounds an hour because I hate reloading and the less time I spend time doing it the better. The Dillon is by no means perfect it can even be finicky at times, if your Lee works for you then that's all you need. People know the service/quality that they will get with Dillon, that is why I think people are so loyal to them and don't try other presses once they have had one. The 1911/2011 is the perfect shooting platform, but some people shoot Glocks right? (Just kidding) As long as you are having fun does it really matter the brand/model/type/label, personally, I think not.

Pat, Quite a few shooters are as wide as the targets we use now. Just kidding, but I agree with you observations. I think that the one thing that we should emphasize is shooting "skill." Shooting 16 wide open targets at 3-5 yards requires little skill. It may be fun on occasion, but I think that the targets we use don't matter one bit, as long as they are the same for everyone, what matters is how they are arranged.

"egolessness" Good word!!! I wish I would have learned that one earlier.

kbear38S, In browsing through some big match results, I have seeing B/A class L10 class shooters thump on A/M class L10 shooters because they are A/M Limited shooters. This is absurd to me. You should have the same classification for L10 and Limited. IE. I am an A class L10 shooter with only 5 classifiers in from one match and a special classifier. I am shooting L10 and open this year, but if I want to shoot limited in 3-gun or at the Nationals, I will be B-Class (Or A if I make L10 Master)shooter, because I don't shoot Limited for Classification. That is where I think the flaw is. I think that there are people who download at big matches so they can thump on people in a class lower than their skills. I will being up-loading (actually a different gun) to participate in the Nats and Area 3 gun Championship match and be hosing legit classified Limited shooters, and I think that sucks.

TGO could win the Factory Gun Nats with about anything he shot. Unless there are standing reloads, I think you are discounting the competitiveness of the SS in L10. Ok, sure you have to pracitce mag changes a ton, but oh well. I practice most all my dryfire reloads with a SS anyway, because when it makes it easy when I grab a widebody. Ps. I think it takes a better shooter to shoot 6" guns (longer slide makes same recoil movement look bigger,) so what was your point about TGO shooting a 6"? He could probably win shooting a 3" compact carry gun if he wanted to.

Shooting/Climbing To me they are both very challenging and have a big excitement factor.

It isn't too bad, I tried it with my SV40 and a 185 grn bullet (about a 250 PF,) but then again I had read the load for a 45 NOT 40. Never reload when you are tired or in a hurry. If 38 super makes major in open, why not in limited? I haven't heard the reason for that and alwayed figure it was because it would make the .40's obsolete, although in reality the 1-2 more rounds in the .38 wouldn't be much of an advantage. You could always impose a magazine capacity restriction, say 21 in limited. It is a shame not to be able to shoot a 38 super SS (lot out there) major in L10.

Great post, when you stopg learning, time to try something else.

Down, What did you do, I'll bet you looked at your sight more and focused harder, because you hadn't been practicing. I notice that I can't "will" myself to make shots, as much as I wish I could. You have to use the sights and sometimes when I am practicing a lot, I tend to get lazy and not keep focused on my sights. I also tend to put more pressure on myself to win when I am practicing everyday, and I shoot better when I am relaxed. My goals have changed from winning to accomplishing small things in my shooting for me. I am having a heck of a lot more fun now too.

.9 only after warming up and on 3 yard targets with a wide body. I am not anyone you would know, just a guy from a small town with cold winters. I am shooting a single stack in L10 in one section this year so I have been practicing my ass off on the reload. I have a lot of time to dry fire, now if I could only find somewhere to shoot and MOVE I'd be a happy man.

Bill, The way I do a mag change, the magazine leaves the gun faster if I do a little flick. It is more reliable for me. If I don't flick occationally I get the new mag there before the old one is gone (a fast reload for me is .88-.9), that makes everything bad, so I flick. My only point was that extra motion doesn't ALWAYS mean more TIME in the reload.

Bill, Can you argue it is faster not to fick if you can flick faster than you can get the mag to the mag well? It is not slower to flick if you do it right. Economy of motion is important, but when there is "empty time" (the time it takes to grab the mag and get it to the mag well) if you fill it with a motion (flicking)you do not lose time. I like to get the mag out faster and flicking does this, but it is not always neccesary. I think it takes more practice to flick right, but I also think you get a more reliable mag change.

Dogma, 1. No bs is no bs - when I was using a square deal I ended up replacing EVERY part over 3 years including the frame, I got one that was really old on the internet for $100. They have improved the press (judging by the new parts I got.) Just call them and describe what is broken and you get new parts. 2. The dies work different, but they work good. Once you have them set you can remove the die after you take off the top part and it doesn't effect the setting as they are screwed into the top, the dies just drop in. I don't see why you would need to clean the dies though, I loaded many many thousands on mine and cleaning the dies never crossed my mind.

Ramos, There are many anit-fog products out there you might go to rei.com and get some for your glasses.

I don't know, I only bowl 3 times a year. I used to rock climb a lot and I know it works well and is easy to clean-up, I was going to recommend pine tar, but that might not work well when doing mag changes I think that any sports chalk would work about the same.