matt2ace

You wouldn't happen to be a knife collector also, would you? I have several knives similar to one you show. Not a hardcore collector, but definitely an admirer and periodic purchaser of sharp and pointing things

3.5 or 4 MOA in Jpoints (2) and DrDot (1)......I have tried C-mores with 8, 10, and 12 and hated them. I am so used to working with a small dot that I found anything larger than 6MOA is too big, obscures too much target, and makes it very hard for me to call my shots

If you are reloading either 40 or 9mm and using LWD barrels, I highly recommend using a Lee u-die for the sizing. It reduces the 'tight chamber' problems, but won't fully eliminate. I still chamber check all my rounds in both calibers just to be sure. +1 for replacing extractor and ejector when converting between 40 and 9. Never had a single issue with LWD barrels, even with CCF frames. LWD barrels, atleast in my experience, drop-in to CCF frames without any issues. Other mfr's barrels must be fit or they will break the underlug within just a few rounds (I broke 2 of them).

I have the same experience as the last 2 posts with a Dawson on 2 different Glock frames (very old - no finger cuts and latest revisions). The plug is tight and the well never moves a bit......ever.

No pole...... I shoot 180gr CMJ, 40 cal reloads through my stock G35 barrel with no problems at all. The load chronos at a 170 power factor (IPSC limited). I have examined the cased the found nothing out of the ordinary with the cases....meaning the usual slight bulge from the unsupported portion of the case.

Many of my shooting friends called this one FrankenGlock. I shot over 10K rounds of 40 major through it before the slide cracked through the recoil rod hole. The CCF frame had a broken locking block attributed to a poorly fit barrel. I believe that most of the problems did result from my inexperience working with all-metal Glocks. The gun operated perfectly in this configuration until it broke after 2+ years of use (this was a very early CCF SS frame). After a lot of experience with this gun, I feel lucky it lasted as long as it did. IMHO once you are working with an all-metal gun, fitting becomes a very important element of the gun build. Glock shooters are very acustom to the ease of fitting for most internal parts, barrels, comps, etc. but with the plastic frame flexing and absorbing/transferring recoil shock in a completely different manner than an all-metal Glock. We just cannot assume that all of the current parts on the market will fit and work with a CCF frame without some profressional fitting. I am not sure if the CCF frame will ever catch on, but in my experience when a CCF gun runs, it's fast, soft, and very fun to shoot.

I have spent a lot of time with Power Pistol (PP) shooting .40 open and 9mm major open both with Glocks. I do not believe that you can push PP to make major with a 124gr 9mm bullet and achieve any consistency with the load (high SD, high ES). I had some success with a 147nr MGD pushing it at ~1150pfs to make major (6.4gr PP). I tried to push 124's and found that the velocity seems to peak out in the 1200fps range at most.....more powder did not equal higher fps, well short of major, with PP. I highly recommend Silhouette for 9mm. It's a nice dense powder that meters well and does not fill up a 9mm case to make major (7.3-7.8 gr for my open guns). Silhouette is essentially an updated version of WAP that many shooters know quite well.

Tried both ways....right now the STI is my favorite, but I have 5+ years shooting a Glock with a JP on the slide.

You might want to check into a Lonewolf comp for that barrel. They have a nice 9mm major comp with 1/2x28 threads that works great with my Glock 24 9mm open gun and it's only $55. http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=4834 http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=4877

4.6gr Silhouette 124gr MGD WSP or WPSM 1.12-1.13 OAL mixed brass

I just had the G&B put on my open gun. Just the right size and I like the position vs some of the longer types some shooters put on them 'rightie' guns

I have been wrapping all of my Glocks in A-GRIP material for years. It is a felt-like material that provides very good grip, even when hands are soaking wet. A-Grip adds almost no thickness to the grip. It comes is sheets or precut templates for many guns. Cost is about $25 for each gun. I found that A-Grip holds up well for atleast 2-3 season, even with heavy use....the felt does wear down a bit, but the grip still works very well. http://www.brookstactical.com/ Brownell's and LoneWolf both carry it. There is a more complete list on the mfr website.

Yeah but with Silhouette, you miss out on all that impressive, "flash/bang" from Power Pistol. Now with the silly mode off, I've pretty well settled on Silhouette and WSF in my 9MM loads. Silhouette is a great 9MM powder...very linear, meters like water and seems to perform well from mild to wild. +1 for Silhouette.......I just finished setting up a 9mm load for my Glock with 124 bullets, replacing the 147gr PP load. Yea.....flash......BANG! That's PP for you. I was shooting a hybrid barrel (5-port) G22 in 40 with a PP load. The first popowell hole was 3/4 of a inch from the end of the bullet. I had to double plug just to keep from flinching and most ROs hated my gun once they experienced it. It really is a nice powder for 40, but it is real loud!.

I run up to 6.4gr PP with a 147 in 9mm open making 170 PF. PP seems to top at just above that load. For non-port major, PP should work fine, but I agree than an OAL of 1.14-1.15 works very nice with a 147 bullet. Use a u-die if possible, it helps eliminate any tight cases in your reloads.

I have about 5 years of experience shooting Power Pistol almost exclusively for 40 limited and open and more recently using 147gr bullets to make major in 9mm. Power Pistol tops out at just about 170PF in a 9mm major load (6.4gr, 1.15 OAL, WSPM). I could not get more than about 150PF with a 124gr bullet. I found that Silhouette is a very nice powder for 9mm loads, major (7.3gr), minor (4.8gr)........in my G24 (converted to 9). Silhoutte cost about the same as Power Pistrol (~$55/4lb) at Powder Valley. It's a nice, dense powder that meters very well and does not fill the case more than 3/4 in a major load (less spillage).

+1 for major-9 open Glocks. I shot an hybrid G22 in 40 for about 5 years, then switched to 9mm using a converted G24. While I agree that a good gunsmith is the best path to any truely competative open gun, there is no reason that someone can't put together a reliable 9mm open Glock. As some have already said RESEARCH is the key, some experience and in depth knowledge of Glocks and Glock function helps too. All of the top Glock vendors will provide a lot of great information just call or e-mail them. The forums, as you know, are also a great source of knowledge.

Latest incarnation of my G24 in 9mm. The slide weighs about and 1/8 ounce less than a G34 slide with the optic. I am waiting on my replacement CCF frame to finish this off.

Posted these on another thread.......my latest open Glock configuration. Rather than having 4-ports in barrel wtih comp, I had the barrel magna-ported to add 2 ports at 30 degree to help with recoil control. Nice, flat shooter. If only I could solve my light-strike problem........

The answer to that question can get pretty complex. In my experience with both ported barrels (40 and 9mm) and comps (9mm) on Glocks, it's more about tuning of the combination of ammo and porting (comps or barrel ports) to achieve a flat shooting gun than which of those options is better. In my experience, 4 and 6-port barrels and hybrid barrels can all work very nice, but do tend to have more dot movement in the sights than comps. You can get these barrels to shoot flat, but it generally takes more work tuning of ammo (powder, bullet, and load) than with a traditional comp. I have found that comps tend to give a more consistently flat shooting profile and are easier to 'tune' for major PF with a wider range of powders and loads. The comp question is complicated by the various comp configuration.....research is always the best method, there is a lot of info out there. I found that all of the vendors (LoneWolf, GlockWorx, Glockmeister, etc., etc.) are very helpful and willing to provide lots of very good advice. I am currently shooting a G24 converted to 9mm major with a ported (magna-port 30 degree ports) LoneWolf barrel and LoneWolf conversion comp. I chose to add 30 degree ports based on some experience shooting a 1911 open gun with angled ports. The slide is lighter than a G34 at this point. Overall, this G24 is very flat shooting, the dot moves vertically in the sight, but never leaves the optic field.

I honestly don't have a lot of details on the build, atleast in terms of what specific parts where used. The gun shoots everything from white-box to full major 0 without any spring change. Trigger is crisp as glass at just over 2lb. I came across the gun almost accidentally and purchased it used from Dean Makos. He had shot a few hundred rounds through it and decided to sell it. I cannot get the smiths name from Dean so you would have to contact him for more details. Here's a shot of the ports. The gun is out to the plater (elecrodeless-nickel) right now so I don't have any better pix right now.

9mm major.......170 PF running 7.8gr Silhouette, 124gr MGD, 1.16 OAL. The dot moves vertically but is always visible in the optic. Recoil, IMO, is soft and very controllable. I have shot about 1500 rounds through it so far, maybe 1-2 times where a case was caught between the slide and sight mount. I am coming from 5 years of shooting GLOCK open (JP on the slide) so I am still get used to the difference in grip, recoil, etc., etc.

The G22 slide cracked and is now retired, but I am just finishing up a G24 in 9mm using the CCF frame with the same sight setup. I am using a JPoint right now, but have a Burris Fast-fire (DrDot clone) I am testing out now.

I like the Burris Fast-fire as well. Same configuration as a DrDot but only about $180. I have it on a Glock slide it seems to hold up very well.

My new gun came from Dean Makos with a very small, off frame, sight mount for the DrDot. I have no idea who made it, but you might get in touch with Dean and see if he can help you out. This mount is about as close to the slide as you can get. I had to have a slight relief cut put in the bottom to stop a bit of rubbing between the mount and the slide.