roxymajor

Kurt, waiting for you to write your book on Benelli shotguns! Not sure how it will sell in the AR-15 era, but you will get at least one sell from me.

I did this service for a few years. I would use Rose Act Sports. gunsmith@roseactionsports.com 15 years+ experience doing loading ports on Benelli shotguns.

I’ve got 10k through my M1 never changed. If you haven’t had any load port work done, I’m guessing something is bent/broken. I would break down and clean receiver and tube, and see if you can see any bad parts. Also, maybe bolt release spring pinched.

I’m with Kurt. I don’t think your out running the trigger. I’ve shot 1000s of rounds with 3 different M1, M2’s at 3gun matches almost as fast as I can pull the trigger. Benelli’s factory test standard is 1200fps 1 1/8th oz of shot. If your using <1200fps that’s a problem. Since you’re just using for home defense, you should be using high brass anyways with high brass, turkey, buck, or slugs. I’d start with more powder OR switch up ammo. AA 1300fps 1 1/8 (grey shell) has never failed me in the rain and after a 24 stage match 300+ rounds. 90% of my functioning problems are ammo related.

I would highly suggest that you take a look at ALL the stages in a match before selecting ONE choke. If you have one stage with some questionable targets for that SINGLE choke you might be able to use high brass (1300fps+ or grouse or pheasant loads for heavy or longer targets (make sure you buy the right shot size for the match rules)). I have been pretty successful using regular shot shells on most stages with ONE choke and loading high brass/hotter-shells on a stage to compensate for the heavier or longer targets. If you can load quickly already (2nd most important in reducing your stage times (1st is not missing a target)), having a large shot pattern can really reduce your stage time on clays and close targets. The MORE close targets on a stage you have to "not aim"... the less split times... better stage time. PREFERABLY you should have a set of extended choke tubes which you can change each stage and get the widest pattern so you can shoot faster with out a miss. A lot of local matches will have mostly close targets and you can run a open choke or IC (depending on your barrel length) without issue. Major matches (if we have anymore major shotgun matches ) the match directors will have a larger mix of heavier/longer-targets/poppers and awkward positions to challenge the more experienced shooters. I'm staring to ramble here, but you should test your loads/chokes/distances by aiming at the edge of the targets and be 100% knock over (Save those stats to your smart phone because you will forget. SLUGS... I would test each choke. Usually slugs are more accurate with open/IC and don't drop as much at longer distances. You just need to know each choke's drop from IC or open Point Of Aim. Also, if you have a spinner or other heavy mechanical target, it will usually pay off to choke up to IM/full and aim better at the other targets (weighing the time taken on the spinner or penalties for not "neutralizing" a heavy mechanical target can make split times obsolete). If you have slugs and heavy mechanical targets on one stage (not a good match design) don't shoot full chokes (at least I'm not comfortable squeezing slugs through my full choke). You might want to go with IM and load heavier loads on the mechanical targets. gb

Try a stronger hammer spring (sometimes the trigger jobs with lighter hammer springs cause issues with all the add-on's interacting with the modded lifter, bolt release and shell release). I know this doesn't make sense, but if you're desperate... I had this problem in the Browning A2s, and going back to the factory hammer spring fixed it on 3 different shotguns.

Yikes. I had that happen once on an A5 I worked on. I had to force it back with bolt handle violently. I hate to suggest a hammer, but have you tried a plastic or wood rod against the bolt face with light hammer strike on the plastic/wood rod while pulling hard on the bolt handle? I would try it first with the stock/recoiled assembly in place, and without if that doesn’t work (if you can disassemble). There is obviously some risk here, but it sounds like the bolt is binded, use some lube/Break Free also. There is obviously risk here! Wear protective glove on the hand pulling back on the bolt. Make sure the bolt carrier is aligned with the receiver tracks before attempting (if possible). I would make sure the hex screws on the left side of the receiver that hold the injector plate bar are tight before attempting (may have come loose and be part of the problem). My $.02 at your risk! It’s hard to diagnose these things without having the shotgun in your hands. Sometimes you just gotta try different things and step up your aggressiveness if the first thing doesn’t work. I have not tried this. Good luck!

I’m not being funny... find some different slugs that work versus tweaking your gun.

It might be a lot easier to replace the front with a higher sight. i really like these... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E8PNRM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Not sure if they are taller.

1st things I thought about was trigger, chokes?, and trying to dump in a barrel with a drum or extended mag.

If you cut it down, you will need to get the barrel threaded by a gun smith. There are stages with 20-25 yard knock-over targets and smaller closer targets, and a 18" open bore will not be able to knock them down with standard ammo. I see this happen a lot at matches.

I’ve had ghost rings, rifle sights, and rib with dovetail rear sites. I’ve tried them all. For 3 Gun either rifle, or a rib front fiber optic dot with a rear dovetail or some other rear alignment. Ghost rings are not as fast for 3gun when you start taking long slug shots. There are a lot of good shooters that just use a front fiber optic dot, but target acquisition +50 yard slug shots are slower without a rear sight.

Steve Rose. RAS. gunsmith@roseactionsports.com. (270) 348-3262 Steve does great work and has been around working on Shotguns for years!

I ran a M1 18.5" no choke threads for a year, then bought a 18.5" M2 treaded barrel for chokes. I shot this for about 4 years at many matches until going to a Browning A5. There are some nice advantages to the M2 18.5" like rifle sights for slugs and precision shots, lighter weight for quicker target acquisition (when your skills get there) and stages with closer open targets using an open choke, you can blast away without precision aiming. The main disadvantage with the 18.5" barrel is you alway have to worry about the target distance and choke selection. Longer barrels have a lot more forgiving patterns. I was constantly stepping off target distances to get the best advantage I could at the target distances along with ammo selection on non-typical targets (spinners etc...). There are a couple of things you might want to do to the sights. I used some bright orange model paint, oil based, on the rifle sights (paint grooves). You can do just the front or also the rear. I also had a fiber optic put in the front rife sight (get a good gun smith, it is a little risky considering the sight part of the barrel).

USPSA says 19 foot fault line. https://uspsa.org/viewer/RifleShotgunMultigunRules.pdf

You can't go wrong with the Tru-Ball. I have been using them for 5 years with no problems. I would buy the copper plated if still available. The have a little more pop than other lower recoil slugs, but the have always worked well in my Benelli and Browning A5. I have shot them in my Remington VeraMax, but they lead up the forcing cone section of the barrel really bad .... and I hate to clean guns!

That was not listed as a choice and I was trying not to hijack this post to that beat down discussion. The auto-load feature is a huge advantage for new shooters.

The Versa. The only issues I had had is it’s heavy and the slugs were wild (Benny will fix that). The M2 will probably last longer.

25 spots left. Don't forget the CASH PAYOUTS!

I have suggested to my A5 customers that they shoot 1200fps 1 1/8 oz Winchester AA or other premium quality semi-auto type equal. I would not shoot the 1145fps until well broken in (1000 rds) and would not shoot them in a match. I have some shooters shooting 1145fps 1-1/8 oz premium shells with no issues if they keep the gun oiled and clean. Concerning recoil (not reliability), I have put random 1145 and 1200 shells in the tube and have a hard time telling which one is which.

Here is the Nordic ext at Shooter's Connection.. http://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Nordic-MXT-Shotgun-Magazine-Extension-Kit-12ga-P4221.aspx I shot a Benelli M1 with a 18.5" barrel and a 7 round extension (10 round tube total) for two years without any issues of shot hitting the 10 tube extension. I have seen some REALLY long open class tubes welded together. I suggest using a 10 round total or 12 round total tube. This will give you either a "Two-Load" (10 tube) or a "quad-load" (12 tube) off the start signal. I have always preferred the 10 tube for safer maneuvering and "throwing" in the dump barrel. I have seen some long tubes bounce out of the dump barrels with excited shooters. (One on the second stage of the KY State Wildcat 3gun Match... with initials TJH :) )

The only weakness of the A5 for a tactical shotgun is that area . The complete carrier action was designed to have maximum stress of 4 ea 3.5" shells in the factory tube. After inserting 5+ shells in the tube, the manual shell release button doesn't release the shell 100% of the time (the more shells in the tube, the less chance the button will release the shell) and usually needs some assistance (by slamming your fist on the opposite side of the receiver), This is not a firing functioning or cycling problem, because the recoil process helps the shell release while firing. The only time this is usually an issue is at the make ready command when the tube is full and you are trying to release a shell to load the chamber (time for that wack on the side). I have worked hours and hours on this issue with different springs and everything else i can think of. The FN SLP spring seems to help. It is slightly stronger. Last time I checked they were on back order. This is not going to effect your stage time, but is a little distraction before the beep.

1-1/8 oz @ 1200fps is the standard. If it was lower power that this, try some hotter loads. I would take apart and re-assemble. If that doesn't work, call Remington. It is usually suggested that you shoot some hotter loads to break in a new shotgun.

The Federal Tru-ball 1350 fps have not missed a beat. Both the lead and copper plated.