kurtm

And how do you know the ammo he is using makes it harder? How do you know his barrel is accurate with heavy bullets? I am sure that your talent in knowing how well other folks rifles would shoot with what you have been lucky with is waisted here. You should open an on line service telling folks what their rifles will shoot best. You will be rich in no time at all. Or you could work on reading comprehension, both would be worthwhile endeavors.

I think it is real easy to spend other folks money on ammo that won't necessarily help. I.E. your ammo could be assembled by a laboratory with a 2 fps standard deviation and have a barrel capable of .03 MOA and it won't help one little bit if you don't have good trigger control, or don't know not to rest on the barrel or gas block. I stand behind the 2 MOA statement. If your rifle/ammo combo can do at least that off a bench, AND you have a good zero your long range problems are you. The advice you tend to proffer is geared towards spending ON the ammo or rifle rather than spending time WITH your rifle, I know which produces better results in the long run.

I would zero at the range. If you zero in a parking lot folks are going to jump! Yes for that range 100 yard zero makes sense!

Bulk 55 gr. Ammo can easily win matches, as long as your rifle and ammo combo shoots ok. I have won many a match out to 500 yds with a 2 MOA rifle with 55 gr ammo. Biggest "long range" problems I see fall into 3 categories. 1. Poor trigger control. It is very common with newer shooters and higher magnification optics to fall into yanking the hell out of the trigger because with the wobble they see in the higher magnification the cross hair/retical only seems to be right on the target very briefly. 2. Poor zeroing technique or understanding of ballistics. Also not realizing that what brand and weight you zeroed with is what you have to stay with. 3. Letting the barrel or gas block touch things while trying to engage long range targets.

Well, several things could be happening, but first the nose of the lifter doesn't seem to be bent down enough. The nose of the lifter should sit flat against the bolt carrier when pushed up, about 8-10°. Next lifter spring might be weak, I like to use the one out of a Super Black Eagle, but any of them work. The carrier release button looks like it is touching the receiver at the back when operating and it will case this type of malfunction. That is the worst type of "button" in my opinion, but it can't touch during operation at all. And finally the shell latch may have been "tuned" a bit to far allowing shells to start releasing a bit too soon. My bet is the nose not being bent down properly, and the tab touching, but it could be any of these things or a combo!

Is this a question or a statement?

That big loop really slows down how fast you can lever it.

Yes to both questions.

Sent you a message Mr. Dalton

I think if the shotgun is full, the follower is well past the extension nut, and I don't really think beating on your nuts fixes anything, but I admire the dedication

What follower are you running? This is almost always a follower issue, unless someone has been inside of it and messed with the carrier, and the carrier dog is wobbling around. If you are running the red anodized follower from Benelli, you will need to do a little work to it.... common Benelli problem, I use the red follower a exclusively after a slight mod and there are none better. Next make sure you bend the end of the mag spring so that it contacts the follower evenly most the way around on the inside. That it is doing this with a full mag tells me it is your follower...... unless someone has been inside of it.

Yes, same as an M2.

Hey Mr. Chambers, there is a TR-24 G listed on OSA right now for $400.00. PM me I lost your # somewhere along the lines!

I'm not sure I would go with that generality. I would try a bunch of ammo in it and see what works. Picking bullets on twist rate is a bit like picking a turbo based on paint color. I have a 1x12 twist that shoots 77s very well, I had a 1x7 that only really shot 52 grain flat base bullets well. In general, a good barrel swap will get you good results. I've gotten to the point of if it doesn't shoot well with 1 of 3 loads that work in a variety of barrels right away, I yank it and get another barrel. Life is to short trying to futz around finding out what a so-so barrel likes.

Maybe even a nice logistical one too! Why does it gotta be All Tactical and Sh*t?

If the intruder is navigating around inside your home without light, you won't need much light either. Now if we are talking repelling boarders with "masks" raiding the old chicken coop a light might be nice. Maybe a great 3-gun stage in the making?

All Tactical and Sh*t.... ATAS, an acronym to poke fun at Timmy.

I'd like to point out, the hall is not in the bedroom, but then again a light switch isn't ATAS. Carry on!

I really like the light switch that turns on the hall lights.

Ok, things for M2 you will wish you knew. It needs oil, if anyone tells you shotguns don't need oil leave immediately. Use at least 1 1/8 ounce shot charges in the 3 dram range. Grease the cam pin and slot. Oil the inertia system. If anyone tells you you lighten the bolt to shoot lighter loads, run away. Magazine springs don't fix that many problems. If it gets shinny, it is telling you where to oil it. Yes you DO oil or grease the locking lug recesses, which means you got to clean them occasionally. Replace the recoil spring after your first 20,000 rounds or so. Have fun!

I've been putting it off untill I learn Italian!

I'm pretty sure the advice ChuckS gave is not "being that guy" there is a ton of info on here about them, how they work, how to fix, modify, ruin, etc and most all of it is very good info from guys that have worked and modified them for a very long time. If your really interested it's all here, but you will have to dig around yourself to find it.

There is tons of training on there of what NOT to do, but you have to know what to not do first IE. "use the C clamp grip because your thumb is a dam against recoil" and I could go on and on and.....

I beg to differ sir.... Watching YouTube is the cheapest training there is. Dry fire is practice.

All I can tell you is mine was disallowed at 2 Nordic rifle championships, and at one world rifle championship. I was told by the range master at world rifle that some part of the flag MUST fit into the chamber. I argued the rule with them and they flatly said if you run it you WILL be D.Q.ed. If I have been lied to, it was by one of the heads of IROA! Feel free to use it all you want, but be advised have a spare chamber flag that inserts into the chamber with you or suffer the consequences.