kurtm

Sigh!!!! It isn't "Paint coming off" it is a plateing of carbon/ plasma/lead being deposited on the tube surface from the muzzle blast. Soak the damn thing in Kroil, or Carbon cutter and the tube will be " restored" to perfect condition. This is an absutely NOTHING thing, and has nothing to do with composition of the tube! The tube could be poly carbinate! Wouldn't matter...... Has nothing to do with o do with errosion!!!!

FC262 is also generally a great performer and around the 60-75 ¢ range. Federal with a 77 grain SMK.

Thanks guys! I will try to get hold of Him! Tony......isn't "face book" that thing you look through down at the Police station to try and recognize the bad guys??? I, like you have never had anything to do with Social Media......or, from what I can gather from listening to other folks bitch about it.....UNSOCIAL MEDIA!!!!! ?

Does anyone have any information on this match. It is September 15th and 16th? It is a "Grunt Style" production. Any idea on Rules, round count etc???

Only other things I can think of is the spring at the back of the she'll latch is broken, weak, not in the propper place. The other thing it could be the roll pin that holds the shell release lever is broken. Quick check is to see if it wobbles in and out of the reciever it the top or bottom where the pin goes through.

My mistake, after re-reading your post, I realise I miss understood where the release was in relation to the latch. My mistake, sorry.

It needs to be between the receiver wall and the latch. Pull it apart, hold the bolt release button down HARD while reinstalling the trigger group. !!! It has been assembled wrong. Happens when folks don't know to hold the bolt release button in while reassembling.

It could be assembled wrong. Two things to check, pull out the trigger housing and make sure that the hollow pin that hold the lifter on and the hammer in has the end with the D Ring on the side that has the lifter spring, and NOT on the side that has the shell release! Next while reassembling make sure you push the bolt release button in nice and firmly BEFORE putting the trigger housing back in. Keep holding it in untill the trigger housing is seated! While you have the housing out, make sure the shell release lever has a tab of metal that sticks out over the hammer plunger, this is what actuates the shell release lever when you pull the trigger.

Suddenly.....after 2.5 years! The preamble.....do you have a knife set in your kitchen? Does it have a sharpening steel? You know that round steel rod with ridges that is just slightly harder than the knife steel, so when you run the knife over the sharpener.....it gets sharp? Well, your extractor is a hardened part, your extractor recess.....well not quite as hard. By now I know you see where this is going. Occasionally this is an area that will need to be lightly sanded, until you hit the Ballance point.....on my M1 that was around the first 50,000 rounds. Till then, it seemed that I had to do that about every 10-20 thousand. Also watch those shell crimps, even real high end shells can have batches with belled out crimps. But with 3 brands doing it, I'd say it's time to "DULL" your knife. Also a new stronger lifter spring maybe in order as well. It tends to help with this, as well as knocking off the edge.?

There are 4 great shops out there. In no particular order. RCI, TTI, Triangle shooting Sports, and Rose Action sports! One more crosses my mind..... Don't have personal experience, but have heard many great things....Hayes Custom, they run!...... That's all I got!

TTI was the first shop to get one of my guages.

No it does not. That would require a re-design, and the Stoegers just don't hold the machining tolerences that Benelli does, so it would be only a ball park thing and not really worth the time to re-do it.

Nothing wrong with the stock chokes! As long as the choke is round and the amount of construction is what you want, you will find that ammo choice will far outstrip any "precived" benefit you might get from any aftermarket choke!

The bolt carrier group can not cause any head space issues.....the bolt it's self, is the only thing that can effect head space. some of the earlier J.P. enhanced bolts were on "short side". I sent one back, due to the exact issues you found, Adamge, and the one I got back from them was perfect!

First off, the cartridge drop lever can not wobble out the way you are pushing it, when it is in the receiver. The walls of the receiver keep it from being "pushed away" from the hammer bushing. Secondly "On advice from the Builder, I have lightly sanded on the edges on the Back of the Carrier Latch where the Carrier Drop Lever interacts and cut off 1 Coil on the Carrier Latch Spring. Neither of these solved my problem." BAD ADVICE!!! Especially cutting the spring, and the sanding part. There isn't much contact between the two parts in this area, and very small changes can cause all sorts of problems. Third, I have ordered the Wolff Standard and XP Recoil Spring, New Hammer Bushing, New Factory Carrier, New Carrier Spring. All good ideas...EXCEPT for the Extra Power spring! DON'T RUN THAT!!! Fourth, by bending the carrier you have now induced a whole new set of problems. The carrier needs to sit square to the trigger housing and shouldn't let the interceptor latch wiggle side to side at all. It shouldn't drag, nor should it wobble about. Yours is WAY OUT! Fifth, if you paid someone to do this work I would send it back yet again, it isn't right! Sixth, My bet is that someone got real cute with "tuning" the shell cut off lever so it would load real smooth, and it is just over the edge of holding the shell in place.......just like Mike from Accurate Iron pointed out..... or the porting is just a bit tooooo much, but that is all guess work, as I haven't seen it, nor did I build it.

It only took 5 years for the collective knowledge base to forget.

And once again the RNT closer tab uses the stock lever and button. No welding, drilling, tapping, no nothing. The reason I made these is because of all the broken buttons and levers I have seen. The design goes back to the mid to late 90s, and it works! I made the first one out of a spring clip for a garage door opener, and it has worked since 1998.....oh yeah and it still has the stock cut off lever from then as well. I stamp them out of 304 stainless steel so they are tough and springy. You can get them from Brownells, CPWSP, Tac Com, Shooters Connection, and several other places.......it comes with COMPLETE instruction, and takes all of 2 minutes to install.

My J.P. has 2 full barrels and I'm thinking about 3/4 of the third one worth of wear, and it is still working GREAT!! these were all chrome lined barrels and represent over 80,000 rounds of wear! I have broken and or "worn out" several other types of lightened carriers, in varrious rifles, but my practice rifle still lives! Best lightened carriers are J.P.!!!!!!!!

That is going to be one real loud biotch! And I pitty the guy who goes prone with that thing in the dirt, he will be sandblasted and seared! Since the hook thing has already been mentioned I'll skip that, but I will say you will never need a can opener or bottle opener with that thing......only if you can get it out of your bag!?

Thailand, not Japan.

I like to change my main spring about every 25-30,000 rounds. I don't think I have ever changed the hammer/ trigger. I have replaced the lifter spring twice, and the shell cut off lever spring once. I have gone through quite a few mag springs, but never an inertia spring. I've got just a hair over 350,000 on this M1 so far, and it is still running!

All joking aside, I have run about 1400 through my old M1 and while I have always kept the rails wet with what ever oil came in shooters bags, I never noticed any undue wear, and it still runs like a charm.......oh my bad......that 1400 CASES of shells. If you want to use grease feel free. As long as it has some form of lube you won't wear one out.....I know, I have really been trying. As an aside, ALWAYS use an extreme pressure grease on the cam pin and cam pin slot, the rest just oil/ grease with whatever. Keep it wet!!!

Jeff was/is quite a bit faster than that, and he was in the 5.5- 6 second range for 8 for the good old turn and burn. A close second for this was The two Bennys, Hill and Cooley. I miss me some Jeff Cramblit!!!!

Good choice! Even when they were in vogue I always thought they were like putting gas cans on the sides of a Ferarri!

The Benelli Nova's do have a v notch, maybe it's just an 870 thing!