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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

sloanslade

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About sloanslade

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    Sloan McIntire

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  1. I shot the match, and thoroughly enjoyed it. I can say that I was amazed at the number of DQs. I have seen many matches over the years that had DQ traps, and this match was not that way. I learned a lot, made some mistakes, and had some shining moments. Thanks again to all of the match staff that helped put this on.
  2. I believe the Typhoon uses 1919 based mags, if that is the case look at the Safariland .308AR mag holders. i use them for my Armagon G12 which uses 1919 mags. I run the pouches with the ELS fork mount which then mates to an ELS receiver made by Binary Engineering which mounts to a Double Alpha belt. It works wonderfully. The belt and pouches hold the mags right where I put them and I can swap pouches as needed per stage. Good luck with whatever you try
  3. I think it is great for it to move around. With it being in Frostproof, I am planning on going if I can get a spot. As much as I would like to shoot a nationals in Vegas, the fact is that I am just not going to. I did shoot the USPSA Optics pistol nationals at USA in Frostproof since I got the chance, again I was just never going to go far to shoot in one. It was a great opportunity to be able to participate in a nationals match since it was in the state. I personally don't go further than Georgia for a match, I am sure there are others like me here and in other states that would take the
  4. I have used Safariland 771 pouches for years in pistol matches. I had been using Blade Techs for 3gun and last year I swapped them out for Safariland 773s for pistol and 774s for rifle My opinion is that it is worth the effort and money to change to the Safarilands
  5. All of my ETS mags drop free out of my gen 4 Glock 34 and I have done nothing to them. I really like the 140s but mostly use 170s since I am using them for open in 3gun. if you go the basepad route, do yourself a favor and go with tool less removal like the Dawson's or TTIs. This makes cleaning them easier, of course the ETS mags are cheap enough that I have enough that I only open and clean them after the match. Good luck with which ever way you go.
  6. I can't speak to the Firebird Tac-12 because I haven't seen one in person. I can say the Sko is much better reliability wise than either of the MKA 1919s that I have seen, and one of those was worked by a known 1919 smith. The SKO shows a lot of promise and started running low brass faster than any of the box Fed shotguns (including a VEPR and a Saiga) that belong to any of the guys that I regularly shoot with. I have an Armagon G12 and once broken in (100 rounds of high brass) and 2 minor issues were addressed it has been extremely reliable both clean and dirty, it's the best I have seen
  7. A friend of mine has a SKO-12 and it has worked with all of the 1919 mags that we have. It has run well with Tooth and Nail armory 10 round, 18 round, and 23 round mags. It has run well with 5 and 10 round factory 1919 mags also. The bolt hold open is the only thing that has been spotty with the 1919 mags. The hold open actuator protrudes further out on the SKO mag follower than the actuator on the 1919 mag followers. The only issue with reliability so far seems to be that after around 100-150 rounds the gun gets dirty and then it seems to short stroke at times and have a dead trigger
  8. Kurtm, thank you for the well thought out and explained issue that can arise based on the modification to the bolt carrier that I did in order to get my gun to run. My gun did not run and with that rough transition there it would stop and no amount of force would get it to close completely. My gun was on its way to a junk heap if I didn't get it running, which is what freed me up to try different things. I figured if I did mess it up the part I worked on is not that expensive. After several thousand rounds my gun is still running strong, but if it does start to experience issues I will
  9. My M3000 had this same issue. I fixed it by softening the transition on the bolt head that the interfaces with the large pin in the carrier. I had to sand down the transition a little and polish the heck out of it. Cycling it by hand I eventually got it to where no matter how slowly I closed the bolt it will fully close and rotate. if you work on this go very slowly, with lots of test fitting.
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