Sgt Smith
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Posts posted by Sgt Smith
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i don't sort but I do cull out CBC, S&B and GFL if I catch them in time.
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3.3 of clays should run a stock spring. recoil is almost laughable.
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Presence
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STI91
I normally load 180 JHP or TMC for minor.
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I've gone as low as 3.6 with tightgroup. Clays is also a good powder if you're looking for a minor power factor load.
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I've had a couple of .40 caliber rounds that separated like that over the years. One in a 1911 with unsupported chamber and two in a Glock 22. In all of mine it involved either tired brass (Winchester range pickup with 6+ reloads after I got it) or questionable quality (1 Fiochii, 1 Federal). On one piece of brass, the head separated completely from the case walls, requiring me to dig the remainder of the case from the chamber.
I look at the extractor groove and if it appears shorter/narrower, or if the angle at the front of the groove looks to be less than 45 degrees I throw it in the scrap pile. The base of he case takes a pounding in the .40, and actually sets the case back a little on higher pressure loads. If you question the wisdom of loading it again, don't.
.40 caliber and .38 Super require careful attention when reloading.
Hope the comments help.
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Was in a match yesterday with an HK USP tactical 40, and in the 5th shot of the a 16 round course, i suddenly felt hot gas hit my face, sort of like firing a wet suppressor. the sound was a bit strange, a little sharper than normal. i got a bit nervous, but it sent a 12 yard round plate down. i continued to finish the course in 14+ sec. after which i went looking for my brass and found a fiocchi brass with the base wall in one part blown off. i went to the safe area to inspect the weapon and found nothing amiss except the worried look in my face. there seems to be nothing wrong with the weapon. the casing fragment was jammed in the recoil spring but it did not affect its function for the rest of the course. a small part of the mag was chipped off, otherwise it was fine. here are pics of the shell and the mags. i'm sorry for not being able to come up with better pics:
does the primer look like it's over pressured? i'm loading 180 grain molly-coated LTC over 4.8gr N320, OAL of 1.150. this is definitely range pick up since i dont have any fiocchi brass and only have a mix of armscor, hornady and starline. i've had a hornady case w/ 3 short vertical cracks in the base wall touching the rim. definitely, ill no longer trust range pick ups from now on.
can i ask for new inspection standards for brass to reload from more experienced reloaders? and which brands should i stay away from?
and also, what might have prevented my frame from blowing up ti bits like in other stories?
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The new pin will probably handle the issue, but while you're waiting for the pin flex the frame front to back and see if you see a hairline crack right above the locking block pin holes. I know the gun is new but stanger things have happened.
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That load appears right out of the book. Make sure the OAL is good and load away. If you're looking for a lighter recoiling load and you aren't concerned with powerfactor consider Clays. With 180 grain bullets somewhere around 3.0 grains works well depending on your gun. Don't stray very far north of that as pressure runs up very quickly with that powder. I started at 2.8 and ended up at 3.1 grains. In a Glock 35 it feels like shooting a .22, almost laughed shooting the first magazine through the gun.
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I played around trying to make this work in a Glock 22 and Glock 35. Using WST and Westcoast 220 grain bullets I was able to make the guns run but not make major without the beginnings of pressure signs. Bottom line 180s and even 200s give you a much greater margin of error/safety. I run my 220s in a 10mm, works really well.
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Glock 22/35 on duty and competition. Both have smooth triggers, that are well within the duty weapon range. Just aquired a Glock 24 that might be used for limited.
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The Desantis Inner Piece. Works very well with a Glock 22 or 23, and easy to reholster.
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I broke in on the Alliant powders years ago, and used Bullseye and Unique for a couple of years before experimenting with other manufacturers. Unique still has it's place, mostly with lead bullets, but it still smokes more than is necessary. I really like the choices with the Hodgdon Powders.
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I second that. The coke bottle look is normal and has no ill effect on pressure or accuracy.
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I run a set of Warren/Sevigny .125 fronts with a .150 rear on a G35 for competition and the same setup on a duty g22 for work. Great for fast work and still easily capable of 2-3 inches at 25 yards. Sights haven't moved even after taking some significant hits from time to time on the G22.
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The 34 is a sweet shooter. Load some 147 grainers over Tightgroup powder for a truly great experience. At a power factor of 135 the gun shoots itself.
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I think I consciously try to keep the reservoir at least half way full, allowing the weight to push the powder down and keep it flowing smoothly. Other than that no special considerations.
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I use 3.3 grains of Clays under a 180 grain bullet, in a G-22 and G-35 with a standard spring with no problems. Accurate out to 35-40 yards and comfortable to shoot.
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Pulled a couple of targets, and I have a nice 3/4" by 3/4" group of 5 from 25 yards out of a Glock 34. The load is 3.0 of TG, 147Gr Hornady, and an OAL of 1.130. Same load out of a stock Glock 17 went 3/4" by 1 1/2" from 25 yards.
Seems like that combination, 147Gr hollow point, 3.0 grains of TG (+/- 1 or 2 tenths) and an OAL of 1.130 shoots really well in most guns. Haven't bothered to tweak the load for that bullet weight. The lead and solids work almost as well, don't think I've seen a group larger than 3".
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Never experienced or heard anything but good things about Precision.
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You should be fine with that barrel length. Follow the manual and see where you’re at. At that point play around with the powder charge and see if you can get what you need out of the loading.
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Could you give more info reference weapon and barrel length? Burned up some #7 shooting at bowling pins in the past, most in .10mm, and quite a bit in .40. #7 worked really well in the longer compensated barrel of the 10mm. More consistent than Blue Dot. Still worked ok in the .40 standard barrel, but much better when I replaced with 5 1/2" comped barrel. Important to have enough barrel to efficiently burn the powder.
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In the past, I've only used the small rifle primers in .38 super loads to prevent pierced primers with hot loads (175-180 power factor). I agree negligible difference in fps with most powders.
Loaded a couple of thousand .40 with the small rifle primers when I couldn't get small pistol last year. No issues.
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You sound like you’re already doing the most important thing to prevent a case failure during the inspection process. Rather than relying on a specific number of firings to ensure safety, continue to look at the cases, particularly the base and extractor groove. The angle at the base of the case where it meets the extractor groove is 45 degrees. If it starts to look rounded and doesn't have a crisp angle any more, probably time to put it in the scrap bucket.
I agree with grumpyone, as long as you don't push them ridiculously hard, you'll lose them before they go bad.
Titegroup vs VV-N320 for 40 cal Limited
in 10mm/40 Caliber
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320 if the budget allow for it. Agree, clean and less heat.