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Dick Ozinga

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Everything posted by Dick Ozinga

  1. Barrel was replaced with factory replacement barrel. At first we thought is was the porting that was bad, but the problem stayed even without ports and I was €200,- poorer:)
  2. My gunsmith has been tinkering with this Jericho for some months now, but can't find the cause for bullet tipping from my Jericho. The 9mm barrel will not produce groups and even has bullets tipping at 25m, The 41AE barrel works fine as far as I have been able to determine. So far we have tried: - 115, 125 and 145 grs bullets in reloaded ammo in 356 and 355dia - differerent factory loads: Geco, Magtech, Fioggio etc - barrel replacement - recrowning the barrel - checking headspace Any thought beside selling the gun of changing my smith:) Replacing the spring? TIA, Dick
  3. I have the Bob Jones cutter as well. It doesn't leave a sharp edge on the case mouth, there is a small flat. +1 on the bob jones blade. After I received my Gracey I had some difficulty with the setup and it turned out that I had to add some tension to the cutterhead using the fuelhose connection. After that it worked perfectly. Dick
  4. 185 grs H&N (lead) HP 185 grs, 7.2grs VVN340 COL ? --> .452dia, Vave 298m/s 230 grs Hornady FP ENC 230grs, 6.0grs VV N340 COL ??mm. --> .451dia, Vave ???m/s Hornady HP 230grs, 6.0grs VV N340 COL 30.56mm. --> .451dia, Vave 252m/s H&N RN 230grs, 6.2 grs VV N340 COL ??mm. --> .452dia, Vave 240m/s
  5. Viking, Try to get S&B cases, those with the red lacquered primers. The problem with us Europeans is that we normally don't have WIN, Speer and the other US brands in large quantities. I've reloaded 3000 S&B 9mm cases in the last year without problems. Magtech is like HP, a very hard brass so probably more prone to ripping. I pick up my brass at the range but do sort everything: S&B, Speer Lawman, CBC / Magtech and GECO. The rest is for the recycle bin. There is a difference in brass that translates in worse performance at 25 for high power shooting, so I sort everything. I probably is not so much volume / powder capacity as the difference in crimp. It is difficult to get the crimp right when you use all sorts of brands. Regards, Dick Dick, thanks for answering. Do you think the DAG/RUAG (Dynamit Nobel - offer on egun, see above) are worth trying? Problem is, that there is actually no other way for me than buying brass. The quantities I can recover on the range are insufficient, not to mention the hassle to collect cases which are spread all over the place on the range. LV Viking, Have you asked non reloading friends at the club for their brass? A few guys giving you their once fired brass every time will add up. If only I'd kept all my 9mm brass from the 10 years I shot before I started reloading 9mm..... Besides at my club there is a fairly strict policy of keeping the range clean, so the hassle is included in all my visits. The DAG cases should be fine for reloading. The name brands should all have good QA/QC so the differences from lot to lot should be small. But there is a difference between brands, so keep that in mind when doing load development or change components. As for "wholesale" once fired brass, how long do 2000 cases last, before you have to go and look for new brass? I import my rifle brass from the States and if you can get brass from Germany than you probably can get the cases from the States also. At the moment just 30.06 and 223 (2000 and 6000 so far), but when my 9mm cases run out I'll get a 10kg box from the states. I can pm you two names if interested. Both ship to Europe. Regards, Dick
  6. With the normal large powder bar I can get 52grs N140 in.
  7. Viking, Try to get S&B cases, those with the red lacquered primers. The problem with us Europeans is that we normally don't have WIN, Speer and the other US brands in large quantities. I've reloaded 3000 S&B 9mm cases in the last year without problems. Magtech is like HP, a very hard brass so probably more prone to ripping. I pick up my brass at the range but do sort everything: S&B, Speer Lawman, CBC / Magtech and GECO. The rest is for the recycle bin. There is a difference in brass that translates in worse performance at 25 for high power shooting, so I sort everything. I probably is not so much volume / powder capacity as the difference in crimp. It is difficult to get the crimp right when you use all sorts of brands. Regards, Dick
  8. Who can help me with the following: I have a Jericho 941 with the 9mm and 41AE barrel, which was my dad's. For sentimental purposes I want to hang on to it, but also want to shoot it. The problem is that I can't seem to get it to group. With my usual 125grs reloads it really shoot awful. I did some load testing with N340 and 115grs Frontier CMJ RN and with 5.6grs N340 there is a nice cluster of five shot and five that are spread evenly to the left and right approximately 4-6inches. My P7 that I used for reference liked 5.0grs better but grouped nicely. So it probably isn't the ammo / bullet combination. So no the question: what is the effect of riding your thumb on the slide release during shooting? My hands are big enough to rest my thumb on the slide release, where it is nearest to the position I always have. My P7 and P9 don't have a conventional slide release and the Mk23 is too big to ride the slide release. I tried putting my thumb under the slide release but that didn't feel good at all. I only use it for 25m paper punching so if the slide closes after the last shot is only better for the feel of the last shot.
  9. Ok, thanks for the info - no worries for now. My Mk23 uses the same sights and there they introduced the screw on the rear sight again:) The date code on my P7 is IK, but for a gun 20 years old it doesn't show any wear and tear. HK Rules. Regards, Dick
  10. Has anyone tried installing tritium sights on his or her P7. I put a bid on ebay on some new meprolight sights and noticed that my ?older model? P7M13 has the rear sight with a screw like my Mk23. My brother's P7M13 has rear sights where there isn't a screw, so it seems it is held on friction alone in the dovetail mounts. Anyone any tips on what the difference is and if there are any problems installing the sight when they don't come with the screw? Regards, Dick
  11. try Dick Whiting on the National Match forum, he has some very loyal fans on the NM board. Dick Ozinga
  12. Oehler was considered the best. There is a German firm that makes very good chronos for ?300+? euro's, I think the company is called Mehl and the model is BMC 17. I bought a used Beta with printer etc and am very satisfied with it. You can buy it directly from shooting chrono or through smartreloader in Italy which ships for 15 euro flatrate. I only use it now for load development and occasionally to check ammo consistency. Regards, Dick
  13. Try 6,0grs N340 for a FMJ / HP (hornady) bullet or 6,2grs N340 for a lead plated both 230grs. Both result in 250m/s or 830fps out of my H&K Mk23 with 6"barrel Dick
  14. In my experience the trigger reset on the P7 is very fast, have you tried the reset on a P9? That one is almost too long for faster shooting but the P9 is ideal for target shooting. For new / used mag go to the source, Germany, and try these guys: http://www.cds-ehrenreich.de/zubehoer/magp.htm You get your favorite gumsmith to order 7 P7M8 mags and you have your minimum order amount (€ 275). Regards, Dick FROM THE HOMEPAGE: English Text: Here you can order our actual gun and sparepart list or the goods you want by Email or you can call (+49-9963-551) or send your orders by fax (+49-9963-539) Please do understand, that we charge a postage+printfee of 3 Euros (inside Europe)and 5 Euros (all other countries) for sending our big list by post. Our Bank-Account: Postscheckkonto Nürnberg: (BLZ 760 100 85) Konto-Nr. 1529 856 for international transfers: IBAN-No.: DE 4876 0100 8500 0152 9856, BIC: PBNKDEFF Order- and terms of Delivery Live guns (category B-D in the EU) and main gunparts are available on good value. Please send your appropriate paperwork (EU-License + EU-Transferpapers), or from abroad countries an international import certificate with your order. Orders from non EU-Countries are prone to an export license from us and can only fullfilled, if we are granted one. The costs for this will be 30 Euros for the paper- and customswork. The minimum orders in this cases are set to 275 Euros net (plus shipping and package costs). The surcharges does NOT APPLY for EU-Countries. Delivery only in strict accordance with the applicable laws. For ordering of "free" guns (air-rifles/pistols, deactivated guns. magazines, free spareparts, ... ) please obey your local laws. We do need a copy of your Identycard, as proof of minimum age of 18 years. For legal reasons: We cannot deliver any parts related to guns or guns itself to private individuals in the United States of America Right of return/Returning Merchandise: From EU-Member-States: All our goods are in good working order and working as described. Anyway, you have the right to return the goods within 14 days after billing date, if they are not suiting your needs - provided they have not been altered, damaged or abused. We do only accept returned goods if they are in the same condition we have send them AND if they are send back FREE of CHARGE. Please pack them securely, as we do NOT refund, if the goods where damaged during return-shipment! From Non-EU-States: We do not accept return of goods, if not otherwise agreed in advance! Attention: Decorating guns/deactivated guns: If the plastic bags containing the small parts of the deactivated guns are damaged, WE DO NOT refund! If you return mechandise, always give billing date AND number, as we otherwise cannot refund! As mentinoned above, there is a date-limit of 14 days - starting with the billing-date - to return goods outside from Germany (inside Germany are only 10 days). If they arrive later, A RESTOCKING CHARGE OF 15% of the value will be deducted from possible refunds. Terms of delivery: Minimum orders for merchandise (other than guns and main gunparts) are 25 Euros inside the EU-member states. All other countries have a minimum order for ALL parts of 275 Euros net (plus shipping and packing). We send (where applicable) only COD, or for countries not supporting COD, only by prepayment to our bank account, or by creditcard. Let us know, how you will pay.... And remember: - Except from EU-member-countries -, we do NOT accept, returning of merchandise without written agreement in advance! For all goods (i.e. guns, magazines, main gunparts), needing an International Exportlicense, the minimum order is 275 Euros net (+ surcharge 30 Euros for Paperwork, plus shipping and packing costs) Inside of the EU all goods (except Guns and main-parts) without any problem. For guns, gunparts ... we do need the prior agreement papers (and EU-Transferpapers) issued from your local authorithies in charge for gun-laws. If you need help, please call... All goods are travelling on the risk of the buyer, after leaving our premises. If you like insurance, please ask, and we will inform you about the extra-costs for that service, depending of the value of the goods in question. Please obey also our terms of sale for spareparts delivery terms for spareparts (text still in german - will be translated in the future). All goods are our property, until they are paid in full. Availability is subject to prior sale. Errors and Price-changes possible and reserved. Place of fullfillment is in any way 92259 Neukirchen-Holnstein. Valid are only german sales terms and laws. The use of UN-buying rights/codecs are strictly disclosed... Should for any reasons one of the terms not conforms with the law, it should be replaced with a term as close as possible, to the term in question.All other terms should stay and are not inflicted. We hold nearly 99 % of our offers in stock and our personal service is worth the longest travel to our place: Travelmap. I would be happy to get your order and I will do my best to deliver the ordered goods fast. Dealers may ask for their special conditions. But please provide proper paperwork beforehand to identify you clearly as a gundealer, as we otherwise will not hand out the dealerterms. All prices are ex works and include VAT. On foreign orders from non EU-countries the VAT may be excluded and deducted. Dieter Ehrenreich - President + CEO -
  15. The P7 takes some getting used too, but as Spook says it is superbly accurate (I now have his M13, but owned an M8 for years) and my sister loves it. The M8 is for smaller hands, the M13 for bigger hands but you could add Nill grips to improve handling. I have yet to find a standard pistol that can give faster and closer grouped follow-up shots. It is however 100% unforgiving to people who neglect the basic safety rule on where and when to put your finger on the trigger which let to several fatal AD's / ND's with the police in West Germany. GSG operators however loved it and "never" had problems with the squeeze cocking action. The single stacks M8 magazines are easier on the thumb then the double stack M13's. And the M8 is more concealable than the M13 because it's slimmer frame, if that is an issue. As for durability, replace the slide spring when you buy it and you're good to go. Regards, Dick
  16. It has no front sight. HK's will fire like this:) That's why they're HK. Dick Mk23, P9 and P7 owner:)
  17. If you consider buying a progressive invest in TWO, one for small primers and one for large primers. Swapping toolheads becomes very easy, but for different calibers you might still need to switch shellplates. As much I understand the idea, I would invest in reloading equipment for myself and not use club equipment. I think most of us have seen club weapons being abused by members and I would not want to start reloading on equipment that was not in tip top shape. I agree with buzzdraw that storage and maintenance will be the biggest issues. Regards, Dick
  18. Just curious to know: here in Italy common price for N320 is about €30 per 1/2 kg (1.1 lbs) keg. If you buy it by weight, from gunshops who buy 25Kg kegs, then you might be able to get near half that price, but (AFAIK) there's only one such source here. Last time I bought 4Kg and paid €120. Can the US market price be more insane than this? Dutch market is worse: €44 per 1/2kg for N3xx
  19. Luca beat me to it. N320 is great fro these two calibers, especially with those bullet weights. It meters nicely in Dillons and is very clean. So, basically +1 to Skywalker's post IF cost is not an issue, then N-320 is an excellent option. Here in the US, N320's price os now out of my reach, so there has been a search for "N320's Replacement" The candidates as far as I can tell are (and these should work for your needs): -E3 -Solo 1000 (my personal choice & single base like V V ) -Titegroup And I know there are a few others - can you add to the list of: N-320's replacement? Try VV N340, works really well in 45ACP, maybe a bit slow for 9mm 147 grs. Dick
  20. Thanks for the tips, getting new IR lights will probably cost more than the Chrono cost me:) DIY-ing some ir lights will take too long. For now I'll go to outside ranges. Regards, Dick
  21. 9mm S&B brass is relatively thick walled brass, so it should be strong. Problem is that you need to check the settings when changing brass or allow for differences when using mixed lot brass. Accuracy wise I haven't noticed that there is a difference in accuracy when using mixed lot brass. Dick
  22. Just reloaded 1000 45 ACP S&B cases on my 550B. If the primer seater assembly is not setup properly I get 4-5% crushed primers, the problem is fixed when you check the setup. From a quality standpoint I'm satisfied with the S&B cases. In 9mm I've had 0 problems seating the primers without preparation. Dick
  23. Try 6.2grs N340 under a 185 grs copper plated lead HP with a WLP primer. In my experience all VV powders burn cleanly. Dick Browsing through this thread I noticed I made a big typo: It should be 7.2grs N340 with a copper plated lead HP 6.2grs N340 grs is what I use for 230grs hornady HP. Regards, Dick
  24. I lubed the linkage, crank, shaft, primer feeder and turret / shellholder. Did I miss anything? Did
  25. I took the Dillon apart as suggested and there is nothing wrong with the linkage / crank but the shaft has such a tight fit on the press that I think I've found the problem. Since it was disassembled anyway I did some tests and with the aforementioned gun oil it ran very smoothly, industrial grade axel / bearing grease was too thick and for now I've settled on my favorite M1 grease (the brown kind) which gets smoother after a few cycles because the friction heats it up. I'll try some FP10, break free or motor oil next. How smooth should it run anyway? how much breaking in is needed? My brothers 550B is of recent manufacture as it has the nylock nuts (as per manual) to hold the crank together and I have the spring clips and his 550 runs like a dream. Dick
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