kaiserb

This looks fun to shoot. I like stages like this, it slows down the open gun hosers for a second or two. I have shot a few similar to this: 99-48, 99-04 and they really make you slow down (slightly) and place shots.

I am just waiting for Chuck "The Gun Grabbin' Schmuck" Schumer to sign in and start taking down all of our names. That way he can start refering to us as a radical military group when he is before the Senate.

I just figured Alda got brainwashed into being a commie during all of his MASH episodes. M - Marxist A - And S - Stalinist H - Half Wits or M - Marxist A - And S - Stalinist H - Half Hour I could start a whole group on the brainwashing that MASH did to the American public. Alda was a major producer in that show for most of its lifespan. (Edited by kaiserb at 11:50 pm on Feb. 22, 2003)

Wow and I thought the "If I Had a Hammer" song by Nemoy was bad....... sheezz

Home Depot sells sheetrock mud so you can repair the ceiling. They also sell mop buckets to clean the S*** off the floor.

Well today was one of those days. I had a newly acquired "Gizmo" (by Perry R&D) that I was installing on my fairly new Safariland 003 Holster. After all of my drilling, counter sinking, etc. the holster was looking really great. However, in the interest of perfection I was noticing that the holster with the Gizmo installed was a little loose for the L frame 686. I was perplexed at the problem before me, and I set out to find a solution. After studying the dynamics of the holster, I figured out that the core of the holster must be made out of LDPE or HDPE (Low or High Density Polyethylene) . Having worked with HDPE piping in the past I remember that HDPE is very docile in it’s reaction to even heating, and can be shaped. Putting 2+2 together I thought to myself “Hey I could put the holster in the oven at 225 degrees with a clamp holding it shut and solve my problem” In theory this would bend the holster a little tighter thereby gripping the gun better after it cooled. So off to the oven (gentlemen never let your wives know you did this). I put the holster in the preheated oven. After about 15 min the holster appeared to be evenly heated. I shut down the oven and reached in to get the holster out. Upon more careful inspection that is outside the dark oven, I noticed the holster had acquired a new shape. A somewhat flippy-floppy droopy shape. After a brief and intense “Oh ” phase in the project I was once again back to the perplexed stage, only this time the problem was bigger. After putting on a pair of gloves, and grabbing my 686, I found that the holster could be shaped to fit the gun. I worked on it for about an hour using a heat gun to reheat the holster in sections, and found that you can fully customize the holster to exactly match the gun. I took a few test draws and modified the rear of the holster (near the cylinder) and was able to make a smooth drawing holster with great retention. I went from having a loose 003, to a custom formed 003. The holster is now better than before. This method could be used on most Safariland products as they seem to have a HDPE core. You may want to use a little less heat, something around 180-200 degrees, and shape away. The old adage if it ain't broke don't fix it, came to mind in describing all of this. However I have a new theory to describe when you attempt to move from 99.5%-100.0% perfection. The acquisition of perfection probably equates to ½ the GNP of the US economy.

I reload on my 550 for a 625, and a 686 using Fed primers in both. I have squished them, squashed them, and smashed them with the seating rod but have never set one off. I do find if a little bit of loose powder gets on top of the seating rod it will make a mark on the primer cup. Otherwise no problems at all with Fed Primers

I heard some rumors that USPSA is looking into a 10 round max magazine rule. Has anyone else heard anything about this?

This link has a bunch of info on primers. http://www.jamescalhoon.com/primers_and_pressure.html As for replacing the strain screw, one of the things done on an action job is to back out the strain screw by a few thousands and test fire the gun, repeat until the gun mis fires. Measure the results and then file the strain screw down to match the measurement. Chances are if you had an action job done, then your gun is setup to shoot Federal primers. That is a popular choice, for most Revo shooters.

I have tried to run Winchester Primers in both of my Revos and ended up eventually going to Federal. Between the Revos (S&W 625-8, S&W 686+1-6), the 686 gave me the most misfires. I have wolf springs in both with action jobs, and since doing that I have moved to Federal Primers. In addition to being soft the cup thickness on Federals is a little thinner than WP, or CCI.

Quote: from HeadHunter on 4:03 pm on Feb. 5, 2003 Quote: from Duane Thomas on 9:05 pm on Jan. 19, 2003 One caveat: I've had two knowledgeable people, one the owner of a commercial reloading company, the other Grand Master Bruce Gray, tell me that Titegroup in reduced loads is very dirty. This is not the powder for loading up your 125,001 power factor stuff for IDPA revolver competition. I used Titegroup for my .38 revolver IDPA loads last year and was amazed at how clean it burned. Easily the cleanest powder I have ever used for .38s. Maybe .45 puff loads don't work as well. I have used Titegroup in some very wimpy 38 special steel loads. TG has proven to be quite clean, on the contrary I have loaded up some Universal Clays real light and had unburned powder problems (most likely causes by powder postion in the case). See load notes below: Cartridge38 SpecialBullet Weight158Date04/18/02 Bullet ManufacturerKeadBullet MaterialCastPowderTitegroup Primer FederalBullet TypeLRNCharge Weight3.6 BrassVariousBullet Diameter0.358Charge Volume LengthOAL1.520Accuracy Velocity710Extreme Spread 40 fps PF112.18 Comments

One other good focus technique that I have used is looking at the "Magic Eye" pictures. Those pictures cause you to focus at a number of depths. As well as when you finally see the picture you are forcing your eye to focus on a point in space. I bought one of the Magic Eye books and have been using it with some success.

This Article helped me quite a bit. http://www.midwesttraininggroup.com/WeakHand.pdf (Edited by kaiserb at 10:54 am on Aug. 5, 2002)

Tite Group runs about $15 per 1 lb can here in TX. It takes less volume of TG to make a load compared to UC. Make note that the TG charge weight in grains is greater, however the volume in cc's is smaller than the UC load. Cartridge45 ACP Bullet ManufacturerRanier Primer Federal Bullet Weight230 Bullet MaterialCast Bullet TypeLRN Bullet Diameter0.452 OAL1.275 PowderTite Group Charge Weight4.4 Charge Volume0.37 I use this load in my S&W 625 Equivelant Load with UC: Cartridge45 ACP Bullet ManufacturerSpeer Primer Federal Bullet Weight230 Bullet MaterialCast Bullet TypeLSWC Bullet Diameter0.452 OAL1.275 PowderUniversal Clays Charge Weight4.2 Charge Volume0.46

Your HF is essitially points per second. While you may score a HF of 5.6 at 75% at a local match, your percentile with USPSA may be drastically different. The USPSA classifiers use your HF compared to all other people who have shot that classifier. For example your HF is 5.6 / 75% for the stats at a match, however 5.6 HF may equal 23% in the USPSA database.

There cruising Starbucks looking for contestants... The only problem is Texas has no trees to hug.

I am using a S&W 625-8 45ACP with moon clips. I use FMJ Military ball ammo for matches and Non Jacketed ball ammo for practice. I have only shot in USPSA so far.

I have done a lot of dry fire practice since my last match. From the last match where I placed 28th out of 30. My splits were around .35 and my draw to first shot was about 1.75. My reloads are sometimes the killer. I have reloaded as fast as 2.6 and as slow as 5.5, depending upon the method used and the amount of anxiety at the time of the reload.

I try to make time to draw and dry fire 6 round 100 times each night. It usually takes about 45 minutes.

Today was my first day practicing with a timer. I have dry fired over and over to get my draw and stance correct however I am working on speed at the moment. I shoot revolver division and noticed that I am sloooooowwwww compared with other shooters at competitions. Today I shot bill drills and a few el presidente's. My first shot time is around 1.35-1.50, and my average split is about 0.26. Does anyone have any experience in revolver shooting to know what a good par time is for splits?

I used to have the same problem only less drastic. I was always shooting in the C Zone about 8" off center to the Left. I found my problem was the position of my support hand in the grip. A couple of quick changes in grip, a few hundred draw, present, dry fires and my shots are now in the A zone. To analyze my grip I drew and presented with my eyes closed then opened my eyes and moved my head to see where the gun was aiming. I changed my grip on my left hand and moved my right foot back about 1" and I was right on every time. Try to find your natural point of aim and adjust your grip and stance to match.

Some advise I got long ago, when I was taking private pilot lessons. The instructor said gently hold the yoke (steering wheel of the airplane). He said it looked like I was trying to choke a snake to death....

Production the way I understood it is: Non modified (only minor mods) gun with more than 500 produced by manufacturer. You always are shooting minor PF because there is no major PF in Production. 10+1 rounds loaded 10+1 rounds shot before reload. All Equipment, holster and mag holder behind hip bone.

Way to go!!! Congratulations

I would think this would be a DQ as you are crossing other people with the muzzle. If it wasn't a DQ I do not think I would want to be a spectator at the match...