caspian guy

True enough. Funny part is that the one I have is the second one I've had. Sold the other one to a friend. Rich You mean everyone doesn't have 2 Casepros with full sets of plates? It doesn't go in the pistola if it hasn't gone through the Casepro first...

Ray, Thanks for agreeing to do this, this process would be a lot harder to deal without good folks like you who are willing to help out.

The Noritsu and Lightjet printers (well, except a certain line of Noritsus) do the exact same thing... They do a decent job - but like I said above, it depends highly upon the processes and folks running the process and machines. Mpix is a division of Millers - different level of service (Mpix is volume, open to the masses) - so they don't quite follow the same level of process as you might get from the Millers side of the house, or from another quality pro house (I've used Calypso and West Coast Imaging). I bow to your far superior knowledge

For my money if you want you digital images to look like photographs when printed find someone who uses a light jet printer. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LightJet This basicaly uses what amounts to a laser printer to expose traditional photo paper which is then processed like a normal photo. (I used to use a service called mpix.com which produces excelent products.) Oh and a +1 to xre's comment about having you monitor calibrated. Without doing that no telling what you'll get. I have a cheap device spyder 2 I think ( I think it was $80) that hangs over the monitor and then runs through a process to produce a profile.

Did jim ever ship those barrels? I thought he was still waiting on bolts? (I had one ordered so if he has shipped some I probably ought to call him and check in...)

My preference is for either: Larue SPR-E Jp Both of these companies make an excelent product and both of them support the sport... As an aside: Not sure I understand the concern about having your scope stolen off your rifle? I doubt I'd shoot somewhere that gave me cause to believe that was a reasonable possibility. (And if losing the scope is a concern how about losing the rifle?) Not trying to be argumentative just trying to understand your concern.

Yep first purchase for the new kdot is a throw lever/cat tail so that you can flip it from 1x to 4x quickly. I can't find the threads right now but a bit of searching will lead you to 2 or 3 good threads that show the meopta reticle with the dimensions in moa at 4x. That plus some basic knowledge of the balistics of your load and some practice will get you going.

Tod you hit the nail on the head. Much of the time we are shooting stages with targets inside 100 yards. At those distances true 1x with a well designed daylight illuminated reticle is the most important factor for me. My thinking is that I need a scope that excels for most of the shots we take (inside 100 yds) and is adequate for the minority of shots (150-500ish yards), so I shoot a Meopta Kdot. I have practiced with it and have holdovers using the reticle and the target itself out to 400-500ish yards. Optically is the Meopta as good as the Nightforce? In my opinion not quite (maybe 90% as good), but it is certainly good enough to allow me to see and accurately engage an 8" to 10" plate inside 500 yards. I have played with the Nightforce scope some (I believe it was mounted on DT1s AR10 at the time) optically it was very nice, but I didn't find that overall it worked well for me. It was fine on the targets 150-400, but for me at least, slower on the close stuff (lack of illumination and unsuitable reticle). I suppose you could dial for range (I think that's how Tod plays it with his Swaro) but I prefer to hold over and the NightForce doesn't have a reticle that lends itself to that. I like Nightforce scopes I just don't think this one really fits well in our game. Now... If Nightforce would include a 2ish MOA daylight illuminated dot in the reticle and some holdover hashes (mills or moa I don't care which). It would deserve another look.

SP2,Silhouette,HS6,and 3n38 in order of preference. 5" hybrid gun with small 3 port comp.

Got mine in alabama.

Henning, Is it limited legal with the .40 barrel in it? Or only with the 10mm barrel?

Hurley, Now there's a target that never I never thought of.

You don't need a high primer for this to happen. I had it happen to me same as Robbie. As I cleared the jam the ejector hit the primer and then bang... Glad you are ok.

A 16" barrel is no reason for poor accuracy in a scoped rifle. My 2 primary ar's have 16" (noveske) and 18" (saber defense) barrels. The load is nothing special, 24.7 grains of h335 with a Hornaday 55 which gives me plenty of margin above the power factor floor. My OAL is a bit longer than the normal max oal since I am using hk mags that allow that.

Use scarch... and make your life easy. If I don't sort the brass I average sub moa (.75ish on average) with my 55gr blaster ammo (h335 and a hornaday 55). The groups did get better when I tried sorting the brass by manufacturer. But for the type shots I need to make in the 3gun/tac carbine matches I shoot (10" plates inside 400 yards) there was not enough gain to justify the effort.

The black mags you have are probably made by promag. Before caspian started selling the new .40 mags those were really your only option. If I remember right you used a grams spring and follower and an arredondo base pad. There should be some information around here somewhere from Travis T on how to set those up.

Bullets forward, baseplate up, from a bladetech pouch on the weak side. I grab it such that my palm is on the side of the mag closest to my body (as it sits in my belt)thumb pointed down. The outer 2 joints end up on the outside of the mag. When held this way my thumb ends up lined up with the bolt release as the magazine is inserted so that the bolt release can be hit as the reload is finished.

I reloaded rifle ammo for years without a Giraud. Now that I have one I wouldn't ever go back.

Got a chance to talk to one of the smith guys who's gun I shot. He confirmed the magazines are their own mags.

I shot about 50 rounds through one of the m&ps, it seemed like a neat toy. It seemed to feed and function just fine. The trigger was a bit heavy, but I was told that regular ar trigger parts would fit so that might could be improved. Didn't get a chance to group it so I have no real idea of accuracy potential. Wasn't a problem to keep most of them in the head A zone at 20-25 yards. The one I handled didn't have a threaded muzzle (which is an irritation). But I was told that later versions would.

David, I looked quickly and couldn't find any of those gas tubes avaliable. If it were me I would try contacting either. MSTN (mstn.biz)or Noveske(www.noveskerifleworks.com) I didn't check but some one on ar15.com might know where to find one.

+1 to both Chuy's and Hut's (huts is also near whole foods corp headquarters/demo store) I am occasionaly there on business and I don't miss those. Also if there is an Amy's Ice Creams near you, you might try to hit that as well. (There's one in the airport so I usually catch one on the way out).

I would lean torward a midlength gas port position myself for that length barrel. Most folks don't seem to want to go lower than 17 or 18" with a rifle length gas port position. Not to say that a 16" barrel with a rifle length gas system can't be made to work (I have seen some that do) just that it might require some tinkering with the port diameter and would probably be less tolerant of lightly loaded ammunition. I believe that the general rule of thumb is that you need 4ish inches of distance between the gas port and the muzzle to get the correct timing/dwell.

My meopta has magnifications other than 1x or 4x but I seldom use them. Out to 50 to 75 yards 1x. Else 4x.

Buy a weaver 1-3 for a starter scope. It's my favorite bargin scope. I have only seen the first gen burris so others will have to speak to the second gen. Out to 400 yards or so I like the meopta in that price range.