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jim v

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Everything posted by jim v

  1. There is a perfect solution to this problem of '180 violations' and 'finger on the trigger' as seen by the RO(s). Get them to wear a GoPro camera on their cap. Then anything infraction seen by them will be backed up with video evidence. This system works quite well for umpire decisions in cricket. The present system is adequate when used by good, competent and unbiased RO's. It is the opposite that can mess up a sport such as ours. The cost would be small, the administration easy and the benefits enormous Jim
  2. Bullets with a flat nose knock down steel better than the equivalent round nose. I believe that the tip of the round nose starts to shatter before the full effect is transmitted to the plate. These results have been seen on poppers that were hard to move. The RN did not work, but the equivalent FP with the same PF worked.
  3. Slug your barrel (with pure lead slugs) and then use lead bullets that are 1.5 - 2 thou larger. I use 0.358 lead bullets in my trubors and have zero problems.
  4. Take a small SVI steel grip then cut a lot of metal away from the corners immediately behind the trigger. The square corner there impedes your trigger finger operation and leads to snatching left. Then bob the frame and mainspring housing. This is possibly the most important change for small hands and short fingers. Forget about a magwell. After a short while you won't notice the difference. It is still a small peg into a large hole. Finally add an SVI short curved trigger and you are ready to go. I went one step further and rounded off the two frame corners that lie immediately forward of the beavertail - i.e the corners that contain the back end of the trigger bow. By cutting and smoothing this area I find that my strong hand grip is better and more comfortable.
  5. If your hands are small and you do not need safety shields, then there is no reason for a racker. Your thumb shelf will also tilt the weapon off the table.
  6. Check the fit of the back of the firing pin to the hole in the firing pin retaining plate. The back part of the firing pin has a tendency to enlarge over time.
  7. Sorry I made a mistake. The name Duracell is not stamped on the battery, Only FDK and the other lettering. Jim
  8. I recently purchased two of the cheap CMore scopes from Amazon. Both dots were very bright which I put down to new dot modules. After 4-5 months I am ready to replace the battery in the first one. On removal I measured the voltage expecting to get a voltage in the 2.6 - 2.8 volt range. Guess what - 4.0 volts! The battery seems to be a standard unit marked on the back with Duracell CR 1/3N 3Volts Mn O2-Li cell Japan and the letters FDK. Has anyone come across this type of battery before? Obviously I would like to get more as they are bright and last a long time. Jim
  9. When I first shot an IPSC modified category handgun with a bobbed mainspring housing, I found that my grip and trigger access was improved. I now have my open category guns bobbed. The advantage seems to affect those of us with short stubby fingers the most, especially with double stack handguns.
  10. Try to google 'metric system' The values are spring weights in kg.
  11. I had to weld up (lengthen) the left hand side of the sear spring so that there was enough meat on it. This was on two STI 2011 open pistols. Before the welding the sear spring slipped under the sear.
  12. I can confirm your results. I have 4 trubor barrels which all slug at 0.356". Two have a Brazos design compensator and two have the T2 design. I cast my own bullets and always battled to find a good accurate load using the 0.356" bullets from the unmodified moulds. When I polished out the cavities in my Lee 6 cavity 123gr moulds, I found that bullets of 0.357-0.358 gave a slightly more accurate group. The cast bullets were hardly touched when using a 0.358" sizing die. The problem with this approach is that aluminum is not a good material to grind or polish out to a larger size. The resulting cavities looks horrible and scoured. They are also not very round. Recently I decided to go the whole hog. I ground a new cherry from an existing end mill and using a diameter of 0.365 I got consistent 0.362 diameter bullets at 124 gr. These were then sized down to 0.358". The resulting groups were significantly more accurate and consistent. There is a lot less smoke coming out of the barrel and much less lead buildup on the CMore blast shield. All of my loads are major using 9x23 brass and local powder.
  13. Most newly fitted Trubor barrel and comps are oversized and thus ,once fitted, they need to be reduced in size to match the contours of the existing slide. This applies to both the sides and rounded top of the comp. What is the best way to clamp these together for machining? I assume that it would be preferable to clamp the upper part of the STI frame together with the Trubor and slide and then mill the whole combination. Jim Vaughan
  14. Have you tested that your trigger finger is consistently falling onto the center of the trigger - not near the top or bottom of the trigger? Also experiment with undercutting the bottom of the trigger guard to raise where your finger falls, or alternatively glueing a spacer under the trigger guard to lower your finger. My short fingers also require grinding away the sharp corner of the grip just behind the trigger.
  15. Try using a decent cast bullet (the best that I have found is the Lee 356-120 TC) with a good bullet lube (Red Rooster Zambini). Do not use too hard a bullet mix. Approx 5 % antimony is fine.Then slug your barrel with a pure lead disc and size 2 thou larger. In 3 barrels (Trubor and Brazos) I found that 0.356 was the barrel size. Bullets sized at 0.357 gave terrible accuracy and 0.358 hit the spot - in the order of 1" groups at 25m. I also found that you need to ream the compensator to 10mm. If not I got several flyers. The Trubor and Brazos comp design has close to a self cleaning first chamber when using the above combination. The other chambers do not clog up either. Popple holes have no effect on the leading. In an open gun one does not even clean the comp in a year (approx 20k rounds) I find that a factor of 165 seems to be a good balance between accuracy, recoil and barrel life. Most users of copper plated bullets have found that a barrel life expectancy is in the order of 25k rounds. I prefer the extended life span of cast bullets. 135 and 147 grain bullets have significantly more flip than the above mentioned combination and not much better accuracy. I cannot comment on the suitability of the above combination for indoors shooting.
  16. Thanks for the replies. I will tackle this problem in 3 phases: 1 ensure that the barrel lockup is sufficient (the current primer strike is a little bit off center) 2 increase the weight of the mainspring 3 increase the weight of the recoil spring I will give feedback on these actions later as I do not want to change anything before the level 4 in Bulawayo next week. Many thanks to all
  17. Why should the brass case expand to more than the size of the chamber?
  18. Has anyone measured their brass diameter after firing and compared it to their chamber dimension? I get a difference of 1.5 to 2 thou larger on my fired brass. The primary difference is just above the solid case head - i.e. about 7mm above the extractor groove. The simplest description is that a fired case, when clean, will not enter the barrel chamber. This expansion is the same for new or very used brass. Whilst my setup is close to 100% reliable, I am worried that I may have missed something. The details are 9x23 Starline brass, 123 grain Lee FP cast bullets, 8.9 gr S221 powder, OAL 31.5mm, F165-168, 15lb mainspring, 8lb recoil spring, normal firing pin retaining plate, 300 gram slide, STI Trubor barrel/comp. The ejection pattern is consistent at 2m. No elongation of the firing pin indentation is apparent.
  19. Use normal household vinegar. It removes lead deposits on the CMore window as well.
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