cheers623

Just to add a little...the firing pin keeps the FP stop centered when installed in the slide. It’s not THAT critical since the firing pin never completely leaves the hole in the FP stop. Most factory fit 1911s FP stops are quite loose.

Sorry for the extra “traffic”, but an easy test would be to throw a slightly larger diameter (Cross pin) sized slide stop in and see if it goes away.

Forgot to add that the slide stop pin could also be a minor contributing factor.

When pointed downwards, the barrel and comp weight are moving the barrel/link etc slightly forward. First thing that comes to mind are slop in the link/link pin, link pin holes, or upper lugs on barrel or slide. All of which “could possibly” contribute to lug wear on barrel or frame lugs. I’d not be terribly concerned if it runs...but...my OCD would not allow me to rule out all of the above mentioned possibilities. Hope that helps.

Another +1 for the CR Speed CBAX hanger. Infinitely adjustable in every plane!

The locking block is held in place by the slide stop cross-pin. One of the very few parts on a 1911/2011 design that's "close" to drop-in is that part. Variations in the diameter of this pin runs between .196-.200" generally, with some few being smaller than .196". The PT locking block fits very securely between the barrel and locking block and slide/breech-face cutout. With the tolerances that PT has been holding, a spare locking block should be "close" to drop in. Better yet, ask them yourself if they'd sell a fitted spare....they'll say yes...I'm pretty sure!

The DeSantis Slim-Tuk is ambidextrous, thin, light, and in stock everywhere. Also cheap! I carry it everyday with my 365 and LOVE it!

I don’t want to throw gasoline on the fire...but I’d not be surprised to see them discontinue warranty repairs/replacements in the near future. They could simply say “sorry, that’s an STI gun. They don’t exist anymore and we only serviced them as a courtesy during the transition....”. I hope that’s not the case, as I own 6 STI pistols and my wife owns 4 and half of them had to return to STI at various points for warranty issues....but it may be a strategic change coming...

Placed an order during the Memorial Day sale...can’t wait! Will post as things develop!

Have first hand experience with the trigger modules and sears...so far, so good!

Phoenix Trinity has released a new *thumb rest [generic]*/thumb rest slide stop that looks really good, FYI

That actually looks like a regular polymer “large size” grip module with SC treatment. Notice the beaver tail shape and length? I know a couple Team Sig shooters that actually prefer the size and shape of the Large modules compared to the X modules. Even without the added weight of tungsten. Not sure though....just speculating on this picture.

I know they’re not the new hotness, but CR Speed holsters work great with my wife and my PT gripped guns. YMMV

All of the above regarding longer COAL increasing feed-reliability holds true in the 1911/2011. I’d add that another benefit is slightly longer case life from the lower pressures associated with this. I especially noticed it in the tightness of the primer pockets. Regarding loads, my experience and that of others gives the following trend for load development using VVN320: 3.8-4.2gr with 200gr bullets for a Power Factor Range of 169-172 (lower charge weight for coated bullets) 4.8-5.2gr with 180gr bullets for a power factor range of 169-172, same trend as above. YMMV

Wow, nice job on the SC job!

It will not. Starting with the Gen 5 guns, Glock changed the locking block design slightly. I tried this with a gen 4 and gen 5 model 34s that I had. Couldn’t swap. Hope this helps.

Just want to chime in with a little information. I’m not saying this to start a “back and forth of drama”...but...many reputable 2011 gunsmiths have noted that the .45acp round is not as reliable in the 2011 platform due to the increased surface area contact between the 1) rounds themselves and 2) the walls of the magazines causing drag and slow feeding and feeding problems. This is in comparison to a Single Stack magazine. I’ve owned a number of the STI Tactical models in all three calibers and experienced this issue specifically in the ones chambered in .45. All other things being equal in terms of tuning within the various guns and calibers, the only remedy was to use really stout magazine springs. Even then, reliability wasn’t as good as .40 or 9mm in exact same model guns. Sorry to throw this out there, but figured you’d want as much data as possible. YMMV

It is NOT legal for USPSA Production Division. In USPSA it is legal for Single Stack, Limited 10, Limited, and Open Divisions. Though it would only be competitive in Single Stack, and Limited 10 depending on caliber and configuration. I can’t tell you about IDPA, as I don’t participate in that discipline. Hope that helps.

Primary Machine, here on the forums, can Mill the slide in front of the dovetail for your dot AND keep your iron sights. He does excellent work! Check out his website for examples of the options. https://primarymachine.com/vortex-viper-milling-combo/

I’m almost ready to jump in on the X5 Legion but have one recurring problem I’ve consistently encountered with a few of these on local ranges. Im left handed and have Size XXL mitts... So, very often I am able to squeeze through the web of my middle finger on my left hand with my support hand grip and press the mag release button and dump a magazine while shooting. It’s not an extended version or anything. Factory, stock configuration. So here’s the question: is it possible to boost or tighten the spring on the mag release? I do this on my 1911/2011 guns and never have problems once I do. Not knowing how these work on a P320, I’m looking for first hand experience and knowledge. Thanks for looking and any help!

I don’t have the vice model, but do have the legacy model. I prefer thumbscrews so got that version. However, every local shooter I know that has either type loves them!

GX products also makes one the quality is fantastic! https://gxproductsusa.com/shop/ Hope that helps!

Wow! This is some of the best technical conversation I’ve seen on this forum! I’m learning too! Thanks guys! Regarding the differences in fitting/tensioning between .45 and 9/40, I’ve seen mostly adjusting the contact between the case rim and locating pad on .45 and some .40 where there is usually more room between the extractor nose and the web of the case. On a lot of guns in 9mm/.38 super, I’ve seen and done it myself where the contact/tension between the case and extractor is at the claw/hook and the web of the case, hence why you radius the bottom of the claw/hook. Also, depending on brand of extractor, I’ve had to remove a bit of material from the front of the nose of the extractor to allow room for this contact point in web area of the case. Sorry to add further confusion!

The design is solid and pretty ingenious. Some of the problems in years past had to do with QC in the heat treating/materials department. They seem to have worked that out though. Having said that...I’ll never use them. Either design (traditional/Aftec) have their strengths and weaknesses. The original JMB Design manufactured by Wilson, Ed brown, EGW are much cheaper and with proper fitting just as reliable. I’d pick the design you think is matched to your preference for maintenance and wallet (Aftec ain’t cheap) and stick with it. YMMV

Your description is a little unclear as to the situation. Just checking that you’re describing two different guns, one in 9mm and one in .40 that you’ve fit two different extractors in? Assuming the answer is yes, then it could have more to do with the amount of tension you have on the extractor that’s in the .40. I use 9/40 extractors in most all of my guns and do the same polishing/rounding/etc that you describe and don’t distinguish between those two calibers when doing the work. The only variable for me is the amount of tension I set on the case rim with my Weigand extractor tool. I can literally pull an extractor out of any of my 9 or .40 pistols and swap them out with no problems other than small tension adjustments. Don’t know if that helps or not? I was always taught by a few different gunsmiths that you should adjust the tension to let the round feed almost all the way into the chamber and then stop just short of closing. Then with a slight flick of the wrist the slide would close. Unscientific...I know, but always seems to work for me when setting the tension. Again, hope some of this helps. It seems like everything else you’re doing is correct. Maybe just overthinking how much fitting and filing to do. Good luck!