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DenC

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Everything posted by DenC

  1. Thanks for the reply @whitepointer Also happy you have had yours for 2 years and its still working. Here in the Philippines, ROs actually use these in matches in IPSC sanctioned matches. They do seem a good buy for the money. Am saving up to get one and waiting for them to go on sale. More established timer brands usually go for twice as much. Though I would like to get an AMG Commander, considering the shipping and tax cost, I think the Special Pie would do just fine for the price.
  2. I would try to have them make it right, if I were in the USA. In my country its a different story. Its like you are married to your gun and have to get a divorce if you sell it. Forget about having the dealer replace it. Here is my SF Stock 1 9mm. The lines in the front strap weren't done right, the magwell is not properly centered, and the bottom of the grip seems to be askew. Looking at a few samples in a gunshow, including a more expensive Extreme Stock 2, magwells seemed to be off center sometimes, but I guess that does not affect performance or durability. I still like the gun though and hope wont be getting a divorce anytime soon. A bit surprising that my other Tanfoglio, an Armscor/Rock Island MAP1 FS (An Armscor-assembled Tanfoglio Combat F) seems to be much better built overall. If I were getting another Tanfo, I am going to be more careful in inspecting it.
  3. Sorry for this very long post. After thinking about it a bit, is this the way the FPB works? *In all scenarios a round has been chambered. 1. If the slide is out of battery, the FPB wont be blocking the firing pin as there is nothing holding the FPB in the "up" position, so by firing pin inertia alone, in an very unlikely fall scenario - you can have a gun firing out of battery. In the following scenarios the thumb safety is not engaged (2,3 and 4). 2. If the hammer is fully cocked: 2a.-If the slide is in battery and a one piece sear fails or trips (dont know which is the more accurate description), the FPB wont be blocking the firing pin as the arm thats holding it in the "up" position will be "down" together with the sear - the gun will fire 2b.-If the slide is in battery and two-piece sear fails or trips the FPB will still be blocking the firing pin as the arm for the FPB is independent of the sear. - the gun will not fire 2c.-If the gun falls on its muzzle and slide remains in battery as long as the sear (either one piece or two piece) does not trip the gun should still be drop safe as the FPB will remain in the "up" position. - the gun will not fire 3. If the hammer is at half cock 3a. If the slide is in battery and a one piece sear fails or trips, the FPB wont be blocking the firing pin as the arm thats holding it in the "up" position will be "down" together with the sear, eventhough the hammer should not have enough force to ignite the primer but if there is enough firing pin inertia (maybe pluas the little force added from the hammer falling from half-cock) - the gun may fire 3b. If the slide is in battery and two-piece sear fails or trips the FPB will still be blocking the firing pin as the arm for the FPB is independent of the sear - the gun will not fire 3c.-If the gun falls on its muzzle and slide remains in battery as long as the sear (either one piece or two piece) does not trip the gun should still be drop safe as the FPB will remain in the "up" position. - the gun will not fire 4. If the gun is fully decocked - in this scenario I do not know what the position of the sear or the FPB arm will be. Will the FPB arm be in the "up" position, meaning the FPB is blocking the firing pin, or not? Of course, in this scenario hammer fall should not be an issue unless you have an extended firing pin. 4a.-If the slide is in battery and if the gun is fully decocked but the the FPB arm is not holding the FPB "up" then you can have an inertial firing pin discharge. 4b. If the slide is in battery and if the gun is fully decocked but the the FPB arm is holding the FPB "up" then you cannot have an inertial firing pin discharge. 5. As for Currywurst's scenario wherein the FPB is stuck in the "down" position when you rack the gun, this will allow the gun to go off if its a one piece sear, as the sear will trip along with the FPB arm. However on a two-piece sear even if it trips the arm that holds the FPB up, it should not trip the sear itself so the gun should not fire. Please feel free to correct me in any point if my understanding erroneous. 6. As an additional question, if the thumb safety were engaged, whether in full cock, half cock of fully decocked mode, would this make a difference in any of the above scenarios? Thanks very much for all your replies and thanks in advance for anything else you may share.
  4. Thanks for all you replies. Good points all. Very much appreciated.
  5. Hello everyone and happy holidays! Was wondering if anyone here has tried using heavier brass grips on a CZ 75B? I understand the objective of trying to balance a muzzle heavy gun (such as a CZ SP01 or Shadow 2) with a heavier grip. However was wondering how heavier brass grips would feel like on a gun with a lighter front end, such as a CZ 75B. Is there still some sort of improvement such as quicker target reacquisition, faster follow-up shots or a more stable gun for longer range shots? Thanks in advance for any sharing.
  6. Happy holidays to all! @Nealio is the 2 piece sear also not drop safe or is it just the 1 piece sear? Saw this while trying to do some research on the matter: The way I understand it if, in one of your older posts (which I cant seem to find again), if the sear fails so does the fpb lever? So if in a 2 piece sear the fpb lever is independent from the sear then if the sear fails then the fpb lever should not be affected. Much like a series 80 1911?
  7. Thanks for sharing Nealio. I have read some of your old posts but not sure if I saw something about the FPB. I also do carry the gun for self defense so if this is the case it would seem better to carry the gun cocked and locked to help ensure it is drop safe? A bit of a bummer as one of the reasons I went with Tanfos is that FPB, something that Shadows dont have at all and an FPB design that I think is superior to the CZ B series. But let the truth be known. Better to be safe and know exactly how your gun works, if it does work in that manner.
  8. I use Tanfoglio 16 rounders in Production (downloaded to 15 rounds) and whenever a mag hits the ground I wipe it down with a rag I always have with me and tap the mag, without disassembling. I also check that my baseplates are in position. I learned the hard way after my first match. I disassemble and clean the mags when I get home. Shoot outdoors and usually its grass and dirt, maybe some rocks here and there.
  9. I also take precautions, especially since I have a very young boy in the house. I prefer shooting in outdoor ranges rather than indoor I have clothes and shoes specifically for shooting only. The shoes don't come into the house, I also wash my shooting clothes separately and store them inside their own plastic bag once washed. All shooting equipment, such as holsters, belts etc have their own container, I also have a specific table (small folding one) for gun cleaning/maintenance tasks. Though I am not that worried about this for anyone at least 10 years old (a lot of shooters do die old) it is a good thing to be aware and take reasonable precautions.
  10. Nope, I haven't made up my mind yet (on the fitting/tightening). My main concern is if it is legal of not. If not legal then no way I would do it. Thank you for explaining how the possible fitting procedure works. Does give me more insight as to how Tanfos work and will help in me make a decision. In my case, it would make sense to cerakote to prevent rusting as I also use the gun for CCW. And yes, I am already looking at s Stock 2 or 3 I may consider changing out internals in the future as most suggest here. It just that I am not that good of a shooter yet and might not be able to appreciate the improvements changing out parts. For now I am just happy shooting as much as I can with the gun and hopefully preventing rust issues.
  11. Thank you very much for all your replies. As for these points: I am ok with the guns accuracy (albeit my Armscor MAP1/Tanfoglio Combat C is more accurate in my hands). However I do intend to observe the accuracy potential of this Stock 1 more. It is more like, since I am getting it cerakoted, why not do other stuff at the same time. I will have to discuss more details with the guy who is going to do this however on my old Colt what they did was tighten the slide to the frame (don't exactly know how they did this) and fit the the barrel lugs to the slide recesses. I think this would the the same case if done on the Tanfo. I was thinking about rebuilt production guns, if there were such a thing in production division, (it seems to be a thing in Open)? I think if these are rebuilt then some tightening/fitting could have been done and if these are fine for IPSC Production then maybe doing so a newer gun would be fine too? I am not too crazy about doing the tightening/fitting done but it would seem nice to do, if it was legal. Looking forward to hear more from our community. Thanks again.
  12. Hello everyone, Deciding on getting my blued Stock 1 cerakoted. I understand that changing the finish is permitted. However the gunsmith who will be doing the cerakoting said he can tighten/fit the gun to perform better. I intend to change no parts (for now) and the gun is fully stock except for the grips and an Extreme guide rod. Thought of just having him do the tightening/fitting while at it. Is this allowed or no? A long time ago I had a Colt stainless 1991 to which a gunsmith did some tightening/fitting. The gun shot much, much better after he did it and was very reliable still. No parts were replaced on that Colt just the tightening/fitting. But also, I didn't shoot IPSC then. Thanks in advance for any advice.
  13. I saw a picture of a stroked vs non-stroked Tanfo on this forum before. Was there a particular year Tanfoglio started doing this so you can know by the year of production if your gun is stroked or not? Or maybe if you had the newer slide serrations that would probably mean you have a stroked gun?
  14. I use a regular (medium?) sized laptop backpack, has lots of pockets and organization for my stuff. Heres what I can fit in it: A Tanfo Stock 1 6 mags (1 in the gun another in a mag pouch which in integrated to my nylon holster) 1-2 earmuffs 2 silicone earplugs my ess eyeshields with hard case. uplula small tool kit with a small hammer roll of masking tape small cleaning kit my outer belt with mag pouches and holster attached (really coiled up well) a pistol rug one or two markers a couple of kneepads my shooting hat I haven't tried putting 200 rounds of ammo in the backpack yet as I carry my ammo in a separate shopping bag Nice thing about it is it does not look like a gun bag and has some padding to kinda protect the stuff inside. I even attached a nylon holster using velcro to the laptop compartment and this is where my gun is, much like a ccw setup.
  15. Ok. After putting away my Blued Stock 1 oiled and taking it out after 2 weeks, I was disappointed to see rust forming again at underside of the beavertail. Really considering having the gun refinished now. Was thinking of posting this question in the Gunsmithing section but I think it will be more specific here. After going through this forum and others, reading about Tanfo slides cracking in the past (a long time ago) and some having the opinion that Tanfoglio steel is heat treated really hard, I was thinking maybe a little more heat, such as can happen during a refinishing process (eg Baking) can make the steel brittle, possibly resulting in longetivity and durability problems. I want to hear what you know, think or have experienced. Sorry for the really noob questions. Here goes; Can sand blasting a gun (prep prior to refinishing) affect the heat treatment of a gun? And can Parkerizing, Hard Chroming or Cerakoting (baked on type) possibly throw off the heat treatment of the steel? Thanks in advance for any input you can share.
  16. Thanks for all your replies. This does raise confidence in the robustness of Tanfoglios. Out of curiosity @N7VY Is this Stock 2 you retired the one you had rechromed?
  17. Hello all! From what I know Tanfoglio offers 3 factory finishes: Blued, Hard Chrome, and what I think is Cerakote (on the Xtreme series) My blued Stock 1 shows rust spots after 1 day if not oiled after handling and I noticed that the part under the beavertail seems the first to rust. I have read here that even the Chromed guns first rust in this part too. How have these factory finishes performed/held up on your guns? How do you take care of your factory finish? If the finish wore off or rusted what did you do to fix it? And if you have refinished what finish did you go to and how does the new finish hold up? Thanks in advance for any info you can share.
  18. I used to do this. I used a red water-based marker and marked the width of the rear of the case with a line. However I noticed that there was always some red ink left on my breechface even after cleaning my gun. I have stopped doing this however I understand that others may want to do it and it works for them. DAA even has some sort of machine to actually mark the cases.
  19. Best can be very subjective. That said, I do like my Ghost Hydra P a lot. If going this route, just make sure you get newer version with the reinforced hanger and forget about using the C-clip version if you need the gun to be within 2 inches of your inner belt.
  20. If you are considering other options, this might interest you: https://tanfoglio.it/en/products/sport-and-competition-steel/limited-custom Its says Single action with this on the section for safety: automatic on firing pin, manual on the frame. If its anything like the Stock series its going to have a drop/firing pin safety. Unless that description is wrong. Not too familiar with this particular model though so best to double check before buying.
  21. Only tried Jim Beam for Bourbon and did not like it much. However I do like Scotch! Johnnie Walker Red with Sprite - if on a budget Johnnie Walker Black or Chivas Regal - if I have some money Johnnie Walker Blue label, my absolute favorite! - if loaded Did not like the single malt types so much like Glenfiddich or Johnnie Walker Green.
  22. This is what I said last May: After joining a couple of matches I found this works for me, much simpler: After removing my mag and stowing it, I rotate the my hand/forearm and gun to about 2 o'clock (I am right handed) then pull on the slide briskly with my left hand and watch where my round falls, rotate the gun upright again to 12 o'clock, while still holding the slide open, look if my chamber is clear, at all times following the ROs commands. After holstering and locking my holster, I pick up my round from the ground, assuming I am sure it is my round.
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