Friedrich_der_Grosse

If you want a "normal" holster then dammit you already kind of beat me before I could look that up... That being said, if you want a duty (Level 3) holster for ANY Beretta 92 or M9 that has a light attached to it (specifically any Surefire XH series light), the Surefire Masterfire Pro is your best friend. I don't know if it'll accept the competition disassembly latch, but a little sanding down of the holster shouldn't hurt if it is too tight a fit.

I don't know, I think they stopped using carbon steel, or stainless steel in the production of the Beretta 92X Performance's barrel and started using hardened clay instead to cut costs. I've literally not once in my (short) life seen someone break a barrel in 20,000 rounds.

This makes me think that recently, Beretta has started to use pot metal to make their barrels. I say pot metal as in the metal pots used to place plants in... Jfc I've never seen anything like that from anyone else until now, that's just- disgusting. Damn.

The CZ Custom or CGW solution of milling the slide works to where CZC physically mills down the slide on a Shadow 2 deep enough to where it’s low as hell, but it doesn’t get into the firing pin channel. They then use a custom plate because the optic is usually wider than the slide, so you screw the optic onto the plate and thus the optic will sit lower than the CZ OR slide solution! CGW from what I remember takes it a step up, to where they either direct mount the optic to the slide after milling it so there is no plate being used, or you can spend an additional $200 and have them use a plate for the optic after milling your slide, BUT you get co-witness iron sights for your optic at the same time. Meanwhile for the CZ OR slides they widen the slide body at the rear, and you lose your serrations entirely except for the front. You also use adaptor plates for the OR slide, and because the cover plate uses iron sights as well instead of them being on their own separate dovetail, when using optics, you lose the ability to have co-witness sights entirely.

So first off you’re not really supposed to polish the trigger bar since it has a DLC coating, which holds onto lubricity pretty well, not AS good as NP3 but pretty close. Put some PTFE infused grease all over the trigger bar and you should be fine or oil if you wanna be simple. Second, no your trigger bar really shouldn’t be dragging, so your best option is to file or sand down the inside of your right grip where it could be rubbing against the trigger bar.

If you want to use the lightest mainspring possible while still having reliable ignition for primers of most or all brands, supposedly according to literature I've read, the 13# hammer spring from CGW + the extended firing pin (including the REQUIRED reduced power firing pin spring) will ignite everything. The 11.5# hammer spring supposedly will work with most or all primers except maybe 9mm that has rifle primers in them for some stupid reason. This next segment however is gonna be much more speculative so bear that in mind. Supposedly a 12# hammer spring from CZ Custom will fee just as light as the 11.5# hammer spring from CGW, but I never stuck with my Shadow 2 enough to confirm it. I'd just recommend getting a 13# hammer spring, extended firing pin + CZ 2075 firing pin spring, and doing a LOT of polishing work to the internals like the sear cage underside, the entire trigger bar, and if you have an aftermarket disconnector then maybe even polish the disconnector itself.

Depends on what recoil impulse, but less mass traveling on top the frame + a lighter recoil spring = a much faster, but also snappier and probably more violent cycling. Whereas more mass means the gun may track slower but recoil isn't gonna be as big, then again it's a 9x19mm that's in a gun that's heavier than a 1911 so it shouldn't be even close to a big deal.

I mean realistically because the CZ Shadow 2 is a steel framed pistol and steel on steel is supposedly not as big a deal as steel slide on aluminum frame, you realistically do not require a buffer in your Shadow 2. DESPITE this, I would recommend leaving it in just to minorly prolong the lifespan and keep the slide from battering the frame anyways.

Hello there! So I've done a crap ton of tuning to my LTT Beretta 92 and have basically maxed it out to it fullest potential (minus 100% NP3 coatings...), but I was wanting to check something out with everyone here. So I got the competition spring kit from Wilson Combat, and wanted to know if anyone has had any reliability issues with 12# hammer springs in their gun. Federal primers I know should be able to work quite easily so I'm not wanting examples with people only using that, I'm curious about the 12# and maybe even 13# hammer spring and the ignition results everyone has gotten. I'll be messing with the springs on my own time tomorrow, but I wanted to see how everyone else has done with it. Thanks!

Best Beretta for production? WHOOOO BOI that's a difficult question. This is gonna be a long ass response so get your butt ready. If you want something purely for competition and you don't care about weight, get the Beretta 92x Performance (optics ready if you want). The frame safety is more intuitive to use often, but personally I don't think this makes too much sense on a DA/SA since you'll have to manually lower the hammer which isn't as fool-proof as other models. That being said, the safety provides as a really nice paddle to fight against recoil, and with 47oz of weight you're slinging around + the Brigadier slide and if you decide to add a shock buffer from Wilson Combat... recoil is basically gonna be non-existent. If you want something that's pretty good out of the box and you don't want to do any modifications since you're too scared (even though Berettas are the easiest DA/SA gun to mod most likely), the Beretta M9A4 is a good way to go. Threaded barrel you can put a suppressor or a compensator on, tritium sights + piccatiny rail for a light, and is also always optics ready. That being said the optics mounting solution is not even close to as good in ANY WAY compared to the Langdon solution. Despite this, the Beretta M9A4 also uses a Beretta 92x Performance trigger group as far as I'm aware since it comes with a 92xP style trigger bar, basically making it to where the M9A4 has the shortest reset of them all (with the exception of the 92xP with its screws for pre and over travel in the frame and the Langdon trigger bar). Just make sure your M9A4 is a late 2021-2022 production one and check it before you buy it, early-mid 2021 examples can come out... really really bad. IF you wanna get the best out of the best Beretta 92 in existence... just spend the money and get a Langdon Tactical one with the trigger job, NP3 coatings, carry bevel (full dehorn), RDO slide, and slap a good optic on that. Possibly the most reliable 92 to exist, best shooting overall with the trigger, best "feel" and handling characteristics for many, they're all G models so they're all decocker only, basically they're the most expensive Beretta you can buy but WELL worth as they easily rival many 2011s until you get to Open Division which... I'm not gonna talk about. However if you want to have something to work on and you don't really mind losing front cocking serrations, incompatible slides (with other 92s)... I would probably say the Beretta 92A1 is a good place to start. The 92A1's slide has dovetailed sights so they're replaceable, and trigger components are interchangeable with other 92s, as well as the slide safety/decocker area dimensions. All Beretta 92A1s are Italian made, so this is the best place to start to have something to "build" from zero to hero. For getting optics capability on the 92A1 since you can't easily put a RDO slide onto a 92A1 frame, you'll have to send Langdon your slide, but note it IS possible to get an optic onto it. Hope this helps!

Ok I can't comment on the SGS compensator and 92 competition kit because I don't own a threaded barrel or compensator for my Beretta 92s yet. HOWEVER, when it comes to "competition fit" or "match grade" fits for the Beretta 92, normally what this means in any gun is that you have to file off some material from... a few places on the barrel (usually those rails on the barrel from what I recall), so no. Out of the box it won't normally work with ANY gun no matter if it's an M9A1, 92FS, M9A3, A4, whatever.

The spring that comes with the Beretta 92g from Wilson Combat that's in the box is the 20# hammer spring which for some reason still exists. I'll just say this. The D spring that Wilson Combat uses, is actually a 16# hammer spring, and is Beretta OEM's solution to a light but reliable hammer spring. Which is weird because you can viably use a 14# hammer spring and you'll get the same reliability as the D spring too, even Ernest Langdon says so (no issues with hard primers). You can go to a 13# hammer spring and Ernest Langdon's team still recommends it for concealed carry as the lightest you can go while keeping your gun reliable. 12# on the other hand is a fat no for reliable ignition with primers UNLESS you get the MCARBO spring kit which uses a lighter sear spring, 12# hammer spring, lighter trigger return spring, and even a lighter FIRING PIN spring. Allegedly you can use a 12# hammer spring with the Wilson Combat trigger bar, but here's the thing. The Wilson Combat trigger bar reduces over-travel, but in single action the hammer is seated further backwards meaning it gains more inertia in SA and even DA too. The WC trigger bar however does not reduce the reset distance at all, whereas the Langdon trigger bar offers a very different approach. The Optimized Performance trigger bar from Langdon does not offer the same "reliability increase" as the WC trigger bar, but it offers an immensely reduced reset distance similar to that of the Extreme-S trigger bar, but unique to the Langdon trigger bar is the over-travel stop as well, so in my opinion you're better off just going with the Langdon trigger bar anyways.

Basically you can use a Beretta 92A1 slide on its own frame and a 90-Two frame, but you can't use a 92A1 slide on an M9A1, 92FS, or other frames. You can however put an M9A1 slide on a Beretta 92A1 and 90-Two frame and it'll kind of work. I don't know about Vertec or Brigadier slides on a 92A1 frame or 90-Two frame, but the Vertec should work. I doubt the Brigadier one would though.

I think the best thing you can do is do everything at home, because when I got my LTT Beretta 92 it came with a nice trigger but... there was some work that need to be done. Follow the guide here: https://www.1911addicts.com/threads/beretta-92-action-job-with-match-hammer.135056/ For the TLDR version: Polish the hammer hooks, hammer strut and round the edges, polish the sides (pseudo-shims) of the hammer where it rubs against the frame, polish the sear, the trigger bar if DLC coated, polish the trigger pin, sear pin, hammer pin, and for that trigger bar make sure it's a Langdon Optimized Performance trigger bar. Trust me, the reset and overtravel will be comparable to the CZ-75 Shadow 2 with a fitted disconnector and tuned overtravel screw. For it to be even lighter, you don't have much else to do. The 14# hammer spring is the lightest hammer spring with ULTIMATE reliability that'll work with the hardest 9mm primers possible (even rifle primers supposedly), but the 13# hammer spring is easily the best balance between excellent reliability with hard primers (like CCI), but also providing the best DA pull possible (SA doesn't get that much better by this point). You can drop to a 12# hammer spring but CCI primers and hard primers are not gonna go very long without providing light strikes most likely unless you buy an MCARBO spring kit and replace the firing pin spring for MCARBO's lighter firing pin spring. Then with this done a 12# hammer spring should allow you to use hard primers again supposedly.

Your issue isn't necessarily the hammer spring wearing out as far as I'm concerned. For your pistol to be guaranteed to ignite every single primer imaginable (in my testing), I would highly recommend stepping up to a 13lbs hammer spring, with an extended firing pin and reduced power firing pin spring. 11.5lbs will handle most, but not all primers, and 8.5lbs is HORRIFICALLY unreliable with primers that aren't Federal only. If you have the finger strength for a 13lbs one, just know that if you're running a reduced power trigger return spring your double action shouldn't be any more than 7.5lbs at worst.

I haven't seen a CZ-75 in a hard chrome finish anywhere, let alone competition. You could however call up Cajun Gun Works to get your gun refinished by them, but I haven't tried that out yet so you're dipping your toes into some new territory for CZ finishes.

You actually responded to my reply YEARS after your original post was even created... You my sir are seriously a legend, thank you so much for the help!

Thank you Professor Atlas! Though if you're reading this all these years later, I do have one question. What do I use to polish the sides of the CZ Competition hammer? I've noticed the hammer sort of feels a bit tighter for some reason than my CZ OEM hammer.

I use a recoil buffer just because I think they're neat. I'll experiment with not using it next range session, but for additional information I use an 11lbs recoil spring with it, so take from that what you will. I won't say I recommend it or not recommend it, because I have zero idea what they do theoretically other than reduce the shock the frame takes from the slid reciprocating. But considering the factory recoil spring being combined with the super thick and strong steel frame, I really doubt it's a requirement at all. TLDR: Use them if you feel like having the extra reassurance, but make sure to please check your buffer every time you clean it (hopefully you do clean it often enough).

After reading some of the replies, I've come to the conclusion that one isolated incident with little information is not worth getting rid of the happiness that my Shadow 2 with the extended firing pin, reduced power firing pin spring and 13lbs mainspring brings to me. For additional safety when I'm shooting since I don't even shoot competition yet (I don't know if I even have any that happen where I am because I'm dumb), I'll brandish my Shadow 2 cocked and locked since it appears that carrying on a hammer down isn't as wise as with the hammer not down. Thank you everyone for bringing me some reassurance and confidence, I'll definitely be asking more questions up here if that is okay. Also sorry my replies are so long!

Greetings once again! So because I'm too lazy to test it out myself, my set up so far with my Shadow 2 has been a 13lbs hammer spring, a reduced power firing pin, and an extended firing pin, and I've not had a single misfire with any ammo I've thrown at it including hard primers. What I'm curious about is if I can reliably ignite CCI primers or harder if I simply use the standard firing pin with the reduced power firing pin spring, and 13lbs mainspring. I ask because I've grown a little bit worried about drop safety when someone mentioned that someone died because someone dropped their CZ Shadow 2, with it firing and killing someone in a match. I really, really don't wanna get rid of it considering it's my favorite pistol of all time and the work I've put into Cajunizing it, so any advice or additional comments would help.

I think 11lbs is just the safest bet, as from what I understand it's not gonna make the slide completely smash the frame up after every shot to the same violent degree as an 8lbs or 9lbs recoil spring. If you happen to wanna use slightly hotter ammo then 13lbs is what I'd tell ya, but as I said previously, 11 is the most likely to work. Just buy a CGW Recoil Spring Calibration kit, switch the spring after each half or each full magazine, and stick to the one you like most.

Greetings everyone! So I've recently mustered up the confidence to tinker with CZ pistols on my own, and though I've had success with disassembling everything without too much difficulty, the only thing that worries me is fitting a CGW T3 or even doing minor fitting with a T5 disconnector. My questions come down to me not really knowing what tools to use to remove material on the disconnector, so any advice on what tools I'm supposed to use for fitting are greatly appreciated! I'm a noob, so sorry about that.