USP45

I have the GG kit but actually went to a +10% trigger spring. I found myself short stroking both of the GG trigger spri gs due to the softer reset. Might be just me, but it helped.

Two of my good friends have purchased a P320Max within the last week, one just yesterday. Both found them for $1,500, at that price and with 4x 21 round magazines that is one of the best deals going for carry optics. Wish I would have known about it when I bought my Legion and put a SRO/Springer precision plate on it. Not to mention three TTI base plate extensions.

Once you clamped the FCU and squeezed it did it flare the sides enough to make the outer portion of the tabs rub against the slide? I did similar to a Glock and while it stopped the vertical movement in the slide to frame fit I then had to lightly file the outer rails as they had spread just enough to rub on the slide where they had spread a little. My X5 has a good barrel to slide fit, but the slide definitely has so.e vertical movement.

Something else to check if you are noticing sluggish lock up, especially when manipulating the slide by hand. Take the slide off and look under it in line with where the ejector would be. If you do some hard(er) dry fire reload practice it is easy to tweak the ejector up so that it rubs on bottom of slide. If rubbing you will see line where the finish has been removed from the ejector touching the slide, or where it is at least worn. If you have a bright silver line under the slide take a sharpie, color the line, reassemble and manipulate slide maybe 20 times. Pull slide back off and see if sharpie has rubbed off again... if so your ejector is contacting the slide. Easy fix is to take an armorers hammer (use the plastic tipped side) and gently tap on the top of the ejector to push it back down some, but be gentle. When you reassemble, and assuming it was rubbing, you will notice a DEFINITE difference in how easily it locks up again. I found all of this out the hard way.

This thread is a month+ old now, but is an interesting topic. Owning both a few Glocks and several Sig P320's (some with trigger work and some totally stock) I can tell you that a person needs to be aware of how some trigger modifications will effect built in safety measures. The largest contributor that I have seen is when on certain models of striker fired pistols one attempts to reduce pre-travel. On a Glock the trigger bar has a "nub" on the top of it which depresses the striker block (think firing pin block aka series 80 1911) as the trigger is pulled to the rear. If you remove too much take-up without modifying the shape of this nub on the trigger bar the the trigger is already set so far to the rear that the striker block is already effectively engaged or depressed to the point where it would no longer serve as a physical block to the striker being able to move forward. A very easy way to see how this works is to hold an unloaded Glock upside down without a mag and use a flashlight to look through the magwell as you pull the trigger to release the striker on an empty chamber. You can watch the nub on the trigger bar push the striker block up as you pull the trigger. If you have a Glock whose trigger is modified to the point where that nub is depressing the striker block when in a static position prior to the trigger being pulled then it really has no striker block at that point... not very safe. A Sig P320 is somewhat similar in that it too has a striker block in the slide as well, at least the post fix ones do. On the Sig with the slide removed and the take down lever in the assembled position when you pull the trigger you can watch a small lever in the FCU (fire control unit) raise up as the trigger is pulled. It is this lever which acts upon the striker block making it possible for the striker to move completely forward to ignite a primer. Again, it you were to take out so much pre travel as to have that lever already raised in a static state then once again you have defeated the safety measure which was built into the design. So long as that lever is down until you begin the trigger stroke then the pistol is drop safe and should negate a ND unless the trigger is being actively pulled. With that being said I personally prefer the M17 and M18 versions of the P320 (although I do use a P320 X5 Legion) as due to mil specifications they also have a frame mounted safety similar to a 1911. All of this is to say that most designs of striker fired pistols are inherently safe until someone tinkers with things thet do not fully understand and make them unsafe. Which can also be done to just about any firearm.