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Personally, I’d sell the 9mm you have and try to find a used STI 2011 Edge in .40 on the forum. Realistically, the stuff you want to swap is gonna cost in the neighborhood of $400 and you’re still going to shoot minor at the end of the day. Obviously, do what you want, but anything for sale is gonna be pre-tricked out with most of the stuff or all the stuff you want. Lastly, if you still want to trick your 9mm out, Dawson Precession will have all the stuff you want: .100 wide fiber optic front sight DVC undercut and reduced 2011 grip ICE Magwell Dawson mag release w/ 4-40 tap for bigger button. Best of luck!
Will this work in 5" 2.0? I notice Carver lists an ISMI rod working for 1.0/2.0, but lists the wolff rod as only working in the 1.0 (I think) - so kinda confused. I'm actually local to Carver so was going to run by next week, but would prefer the Tungsten one which I don't see on Carver's site.
If you are planning on USPSA, youd be pouring good money after bad putting anything into that one. Be better off selling it and getting a 40 or just stay with a CO rig for now till you learn the game and what you like and dont like. Way to many people jump in, then spend a bunch of money for the wrong gear.
I bought/use bamboo shish kabob skewers for a primer follower. They are handy for other things too, like gun cleaning, etc. Bought locally something like these, a life time supply: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VHP6C7/ref=twister_B07KXQ89DT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Mine keeps evolving. Currently I grip gun with weak hand thumb up against blast shield, strong hand thumb over the weak one. strong hand thumb hits the release as strong hand rotated out 45 degrees over and up. Weak hand cups the barrel while travelling upward. Weak hand thumb hits ejector and then goes for a moon clip while strong hand dips gun down and brings gun to belt. Regrip It’s a little tricky as I’ve got smallish hands -a lot of revo shooters I see have huge mitts!
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My pockets arent deep. At all. I just got off a combat deployment and wanted to use some of that to treat myself to something nice. If im going to do it, im doing to do it right. on that note for anyone who cares. Shot my first match with it today and it was a disaster. Under match pressure when i grip the gun, the extended mag release causes me to press it accidentally while shooting...alot. Guess i gotta get a shorter one. Also the safety paddle is too big for my liking, after reloads when go to put my thumb back up, sometimes i reengage the safety. Going to have to grind that down. Also id say maybe 6-7 rounds out 200, the ejector ejects the spent case up instead of sideways, hits my cmore and jams into the chamber. Trial and error i guess. Aside from that the gun runs as intended.
I’m a complete newb to competition pistol shooting. I’m wanting to get into it and be competitive. I have a plastic pistol Carry Optics setup I’m planning to use to start. That’s another topic. I bought a 5” STI Tactical 2011 in 9mm back in 2014 to use on the rare pistol stage we would have to shoot in a PRS match. It worked fine for what I needed. I would like to change some things in it and I’d like to get some advice. The sights: It has the all metal solid black front and rear. The rear notch measures .155” wide and the front post measures .130” wide. I’d like to get some sights that have a smaller notch and thinner front post with the front being fiber optic. Is there a pretty common “thinner” setup that most people use as far as a front to back measurement? Most importantly I’d like a pretty fine fiber red/green up front. The grip: This grip feels just a little large to me, but it’s ok. It just doesn’t feel “good” in my hand. I did the undercut on the trigger guard myself (yes I used a dremel on my pistol). The feel was much much better afterwards. I like a pretty high undercut for my finger to set in. Any suggestions on a different grip that is popular with a lot of shooters? It needs to be pretty aggressive as far as texture. The magwell: this magwell seems very small compared to what I see on other people’s guns. Any suggestions on a slightly larger one? I do reloads just fine with this one. It’s pretty smooth, but when placed under stress on the clock, I’m sure a larger one would help. Of course practice would also help as well. The mag release: this thing sucks. It’s too small. I have to alter my grip to drop the mag. Lastly.....if my understanding is correct, the only class I can shoot this pistol in like it is in 9mm is Limited Minor (or open.....right). I understand with the lower scoring factor of limited minor, this is not the place most people want to be shooting. So, that makes me ask the question is it worth spending any amount of money at all on this pistol to “fix it up” other than maybe changing the sights? I’d be ok shooting limited minor for a few matches to get started, but I know I’m not going to want to stay there. https://m.imgur.com/XZuuV2G https://imgur.com/gallery/VWMJvmv
Personally I'm a fan of weak hand loading, for two reasons is muzzle controll is easier and second it is more similar to reloading an auto and as I switch platforms regularly that's helpfull. My technique (aka this works for me) I shoot with a thumbs forward grip just like an auto. After firing last shot is both thumbs and trigger finger move, strong hand thumb to where the hammer spur would be weak hand thumb to the cylinder release trigger finger to the side of the cylinder. Weak hand thumb releases cylinder trigger finger presses cylinder through frame During steps one and 2 muzzle is being elevated to about 45 deg Weak hand hits ejector rod Weak hand grabs new moon clip While grabbing clip muzzle I'd dropping to about 45 deg down Weak hand delivers moon clip to cylinder, look the moon into the cylinder Weak hand closes cylinder while bringing gun back up to firing position Grip is rebuilt as gun gets to firing position. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
PistolPackr joined the community
The unspoken purpose of the Extreme parts is to be silver. So that when an IPSC competitor did minor polishing it wasn’t obvious like it would be on a black part. There was no reason to run one in the US, where it was already completely legal to shine your black factory part up to a mirror shine.
Hi Sarge: I have replaced the Dillon 4 RPM motor with a 10 RPM motor - see my posting for model number of the motor - available from McMaster - Carr. Note that while the installation is a five minute direct substitution you have to have a machine shop drill a hole for the roll pin using a carbide drill bit in a mill. With the higher speed motor the case feeder works great. works great. Any motor will require the shaft modification so unless you are looking to increase the speed the Molon motor available from Dillon is the way to go.
Do a search of YouTube. There are about 5 general ways to do it. Primarily, weak hand or strong hand. I started with strong hand but found it easy to sweep myself so changed to weak hand as it gave me better muzzle control. You’d be amazed at what you can get the dumb side to learn. The idea is to pick what works for you and practice the crap out of it.
Those using the Fast & Friendly Brass Dillon Case Feeder Adapter may experience a stoppage in the feed tube after high volume use on a 1050 automated drive . I solved the problem by raising the clover slightly off the frame by using two thin washers as spacers. I hypothesize that the slot under the cover - which, for example, on .45 A.C.P. - is not as wide as on the Dillon original equipment part - may be the cause. In any event rising the cover sightly solves the stoppages in my applications. The use of the F&F B adapter, as a plus, eliminates the separate caliber specific adapter insert (green for .38 S.C., red for .45 A.C.P., etc.) which sometimes rides up under auto drive speeds and also causes problems. With the modification I prefer the F&F B unit for this reason.
Yea M does it that way, but somewhere on you tube he says that the best way to do it is the way that works best for you. A GM revolver shooter I know gives the same advice (and reloads the same way J.M. does). I don't know which method is most common or how close it is to an even split. Write.
I don't think I can go past OAL of 1.130 on that barrel. That would be my only problem. I looked at the TG and the label with using a Hornady XTP at 1.125 OAL is at 4.7gr. Wonder if it would be the same for the 700-X at 1.125 OAL.
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