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Has anyone had an accuracy problems at all with the blues being sized at .400? You can order the all of the blue 9mm bullets with a special order profile of .356, but it seems that they don't do that (.401) for their 40 cal bullets. I'm new to 40 and was wondering about that. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
I always incorporate a few each practice session to remind myself of the feel of slidelock Just load a few rounds in each mag and go from there. I shoot Production so the “struggle is real” and more common than open or limited just add it into your practice, and Burkett Drill it until it becomes boring then do some more. Magwell weight is great it is low on one end of the lever ( think of a pivot at the hammer pin hole) and non moving so it will help with flip but you will need to test to see if a heavier or lighter gun works for you/tracks better. Bullets up/forward because that’s how your hand will fall naturally to your belt with minimum additional movement,less movement (in this case) is free speed and less to fumble/remember.
Stock 1 and 2 have 4.5" barrels. They use the standard length springs. Stock 3 and Lim Pro have 4.75" barrels which require the extended length recoil springs. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
Don't be like my buddy Dave! Go drinking till 2 the night before the State match. Stop for coffee on the way to match after 3 hrs sleep. Add 4 count 'em, 4 Expresso shots to your coffee. Shake your way to your worst finish ever. Realize after the match that you registered for the afternoon squad to shoot PCC! Do not be like Dave
If you search the internet vendors/dealers you'll see them around for a few years, most likely. I still see P07 DUTY pistols at gun shows now and then and think how long it's been since they stopped making those. And, as stated earlier, it's not hard or expensive to convert a CZ75B to SAO. Even a Compact can be converted - as long as it's the safety model, not the decocker model. Having said that, a race hammer from CGW (CZ Custom is probably just as good but I've never bought one from them) along with their (CGW) adjustable sear will make for an amazing single action trigger pull even if you leave the pistol SA/DA capable.
I hear folks deliver that saying to new shooters all the time and i think it is utterly unhelpful. It doesnt explain anything to help someone improve. If im missing, and the suggestion is to simply slow down and see my sights and shoot smoothly, depending on the technical problem im having, i will likly just miss but miss slower. Maybe im seeing my sights and aligning them perfectly but im jerking the gun early to anticipate recoil. Slowing down doesnt fix that problem, it only helps miss more slowly. Thats just one of an infinite scenarios. Aggravates me to see new shooters given advice of the sort when it doesnt actually help them with anything. To a semi experienced shooter that starts missing when they increase speed by 10%, my advice isnt to slow down so they can be smooth and get their hits. It is to address whatever is causing them to miss the target so they can shoot at that increased speed accurately. This is where a good eye comes in. Rather than listen to the pablum that is typacally barked at a match for new shooters or people struggling in general, i would suggest seeking out or listening to shooters that can specifically identify the problem you are having and address it in a coherent correctable manner. All the time shooters listen to the normal unhelpful improvement verbiage that may not mean anything, then the shooter doesnt know why they arent getting better, and stay B rated for life. "Slow is smooth smooth is fast" none of the top competitors look to me like they do anything slowly. A slow hit may be better than a miss, slow hits also dont help you win at this game.
OAL tends to be adjust for function. Powder for velocity. You probably need to do both. To the question you asked though. 185 pf isnt too high and can easily be done at below max pressure with slower powders. 185 pf with 231 powder probably has you over pressure.
Never used lube with carbide dies. It's why paid extra for carbide sizing dies, so I didn't have to mess with lubing them. I always lube rifle cases. Use RCBS or Hornaday lube (the gooey/sticky stuff in the small bottles.) Tried the Lee resizing lube and that's some messy stuff, but it works. I had a set of Lee 9MM carbide dies that was like resizing rifle cases. Wear you out after awhile. I considered lubing for those but just bought a set of RCBS 9MM dies with a carbide resizing die and that solved that problem. "Normal" now, as compared to the other revolver and pistol cartridges I reload.
it's hard chromed, intended to be ipsc legal before they changed the rules for this year. I've had internals NP3d before, it does slick them up quite a bit, but honestly not really worth it unless you happen to be refinishing the entire gun. Polishing gets you 85-90% of the way there.
Yep. It happened on both a "1.0" .40SW pro 5" and a "1.0" .40SW compact for me. Sad if they haven't fixed it with the 2.0. I doubt they will charge you anything to repair it. They sent me shipping labels and replaced them free of charge. Annoying to have the guns gone for a month, but oh well. I would estimate that it happens around the 10000 round mark. I'm not sure if using the slide release function at the end of reloads or the force of stopping the slide for last round hold open that causes them to break. I would be interested to know if the ones that are breaking are other .40's or 9's. Maybe it is part of the reason they went to the weaker green recoil spring on 9mm's after a period of time?
Wellll, the forum/community wasn't really alive before so who will spot the difference anyway? (kidding!) Could be (scheduled) maintenance. According to Misty who helped me, the webcare team is expanding and should be up to speed this summer. So we should see increasing activity instead of less. But anyway, live chat is a step in the right direction! Time will tell.
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